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3D Printing Discussion


-BEZ-

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Tamiya, for that little check list, make sure the rig is a more of a brute for routereerererering, something like 16mm linear rods for my money. 12mm Supported rod maybe sufficient... Save your pennies, try going the DIY route? Get exactly what you want then, to your own spec. 

 

I've been quiet with my machine, plumbing it into it's new home - on a table on the middle of the room was getting on my nerves! I've found it dances around rather readily. Onto thingiverse I go and find me this, print 4 off and clamp the waltzing Matilda down! Scaled the height to 85% for my Hesine Prusa to just nip the threaded bars.

IMG_20151202_062635.jpg

I have purchased a PC PSU ready to allow the printer to have some power redundancy - not keen on using power supplies too close to their limits. I want to bite the bullet and try printing ABS soon.

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1 hour ago, banners said:

Tamiya, for that little check list, make sure the rig is a more of a brute for routereerererering, something like 16mm linear rods for my money. 12mm Supported rod maybe sufficient... Save your pennies, try going the DIY route? Get exactly what you want then, to your own spec. 

 

I've been quiet with my machine, plumbing it into it's new home - on a table on the middle of the room was getting on my nerves! I've found it dances around rather readily. Onto thingiverse I go and find me this, print 4 off and clamp the waltzing Matilda down! Scaled the height to 85% for my Hesine Prusa to just nip the threaded bars.

IMG_20151202_062635.jpg

I have purchased a PC PSU ready to allow the printer to have some power redundancy - not keen on using power supplies too close to their limits. I want to bite the bullet and try printing ABS soon.

 

I'm not even sure our printers can do it. The stock PSU is 180w, 12v @16a. I've gutted a PC PSU that gives 700w, on a single 12v rail @ 36a. I didn't see any difference... :/
Unless the PC PSU was giving up, the printer has its limits

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11 minutes ago, Vr5fx said:

 

I'm not even sure our printers can do it. The stock PSU is 180w, 12v @16a. I've gutted a PC PSU that gives 700w, on a single 12v rail @ 36a. I didn't see any difference... :/
Unless the PC PSU was giving up, the printer has its limits

These Hesine printers can print ABS can't they? I've swapped the extruder to an all metal clone E3D V6 clone - ebay and AliExpress sourced and a little work still needed but I'm trying to get to grips with it. I know the psu can handle the load as it stands but I want some extra lights and an extraction fan for when ABS starts. 

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Just wondering how many metres you guys got off your PLA filament that you got with the printer. ive used about 250m so far, and i know 330m is a kilo.

Just dont want to start a long print and it run out half way through :lol:

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8 minutes ago, mayzie12 said:

Yeah ive got that, i know 1kg is 330m i just cant remember if it was  a 750g roll we got for free or 1kg as i cant find a sticker on int anywhere

Ah, sorry mate. The sticker on mine says 1kg. ^_^

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well ive been running the printer with bushings now for a couple of week and they run great !!!!! they really are smooth (no grease  on the rods they like nice clean rods as they are self lubricating).

the printer is quieter there is just the motor noise now but i like that lol....

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got a couple of low poly starwars figures done and prints are coming out really nice, Got some glow in the dark filament after seeing Vr5fx filament , once its charged with light it really glows strong. Ordered some ninja flex as i got half the 13th month paid so i felt flush enough to order some seeing as its a bit expensive.... looking forward to trying it out ..

Also ordered a Zebra plate from printinz.com , supposed to be the beez knees !!!!!!!

FB_IMG_1449932058169_zpspcewp1ir.jpg

Edited by baorevo
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9 minutes ago, baorevo said:

got a couple of low poly starwars figures done and prints are coming out really nice, Got some glow in the dark filament after seeing Vr5fx filament , once its charged with light it really glows strong. Ordered some ninja flex as i got half the 13th month paid so i felt flush enough to order some seeing as its a bit expensive.... looking forward to trying it out ..

Also ordered a Zebra plate from printinz.com , supposed to be the beez knees !!!!!!!

Woohoo! The glow in the dark is cool! Not amazing quality filament, but it's totally for the cool factor.

My bushings arrived but haven't had time to fit them.

What is this zebra plate? :)

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6 minutes ago, Vr5fx said:

Woohoo! The glow in the dark is cool! Not amazing quality filament, but it's totally for the cool factor.

My bushings arrived but haven't had time to fit them.

What is this zebra plate? :)

zebra plate does the same as the hairspray and gluestick but better and no cleaning !!!! im a lazy git lol just put it in place of the glass   http://www.printinz.com/zebra-plates/ i ordered the bq plate as its the right size its just missing the corners.

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Interesting stuff. The European distributor has some mark up though, $35 from USA and 65E from Europe? It's pricey but if it helps keep prints down. I'm still printing pla on hairspray happily

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27 minutes ago, banners said:

Interesting stuff. The European distributor has some mark up though, $35 from USA and 65E from Europe? It's pricey but if it helps keep prints down. I'm still printing pla on hairspray happily

Yeah the european seller is a joke !!! i bought direct from the USA 13 dollars postage

!! im happy with hairspray too but you know what its like lol

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It's difficult to keep on top of everything 3D, top work on the starwars characters, they look great.

And as for uprades we (maybe) don't need..... it's what keeps us in the hobby some times hahahaha! 

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Comming winter your now want to be trying to save that heat produced. in the summer and likes the air is nice and warm, rooms stay warm through the night.
But in winter its a whole new ballgame, here are my room temps with windows closed and no heating ( there is no fire/radiator in my room) Daytime temps in winter i get a max 65f ( thats around 17 degree) , at night in winter my room drops to 12 degree , thats around the 50-55f mark. 
Summer time its a whole new ballgame, daytime temps reach 90f with windows open fully, and night time 80f.

put the printers into a cupboard and run them you will find you need to adjust your bed temp and hot end over a time as the room heats up and holds that heat. it means in the end your turning down the power use. 

 

what else can be made. well when i had my machine i came across a post in my local paper, it was about a hackerspace group who were using filament and machines to create hands for disabled children, those less fortunate that lost fingers or hands from illness and the likes, point is they do this for FREE and made me come to a choice if i had another printer its what i would do, find those less fortunate as myself and other but give them that freedom we have and take for granted every day the use of hands and fingers.

whats more better than seeing a young childs eyes light up because you a Nobody has given them the chance to live like there little friends and play like them to, picking up a ball or a cup , its the smile that counts and thats one thing our 3d print hobby can supply . for a few hours and  couple hundred meter of filament you give a child or teen the freedom we have for life and a smile bigger than any joy could ever imagine. Nodoubt you also find a new line of  friends just through one or two acts of kindness 

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For the heat we are fine as i had the house built 4 years ago and the insulation is great we keep the whole house at 21-22 °C all winter and its constant day and night..... printer is running great at these temperatures :) . the temperatures not much of a problem anyway for pla but for abs and exotic  filaments that's when you need a warmer environment .

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Sweet lord, I regret buying these stupid bushings. How on earth anyone managed to get them on without issues is beyond me.

I've had one set score a dirty great big line down one of the rods, and the others simply don't "glide" It certainly requires some force to move them.

I've still got one bearing in the Z axis, as something wasn't right, so I'll keep that there for the time being.

X-axis seems fine, after lots of fiddling, I've had to shim with some paper to get smooth movement,

Y-axis is very stiff, even after lots of adjusting, it simply wont glide, the motor can pull it, but it's jumped a few teeth when going home.

And now my Z-axis wont level, the bed is ******. Which makes no sense.

No patience today it seems. :@.@:

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my bearings are also going noisy, printer is getting rather loud. There must be others available that we can use in the existing holders no?

Thing is the printer is still working perfectly and i darent touch it. Might have a look when i change to the new filament in the next week.

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Does anyone know how to run a test on all axis on 3D printers?

As an example, I want X-Y-Z axis to move to the switch and back 100 times, or 50 times, something like that.

I want to see if that helps losen up the bushes, and if it causes any issues for the motors.

Nevermind, I made a massive box, took the filament out and put the temps at 0. :D

Edited by Vr5fx
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Have a little play with some g-code. From reading the G-code from repetier host with cura as the slicer, the  G28 command homes all axis. From here you could simply program a G0 (g0 is run at the maximum speed the software or firmware is set to) command to the opposite corner diagonally to the edge of your machine with ie: G0 X200 Y200 or if you want to define a speed at which to travel,G1 is the command with a F value of mm per minute so, 30mm/sec * 60 seconds = 1800mm/min. If you open a text editor (notepad is fine) and copy and paste the 2 commands

G28 ; Home extruder

G1 F1800 X200 Y200

then repeat however many times you want it to run those 2. Of course, you can add lines to command the travel around the edges of your bed or any where in between. Save the file as a .gcode file and repetier should run it.

By utilising G-Code direct, we have a powerful tool for creating a plotter or laser engraver and cutter :mf_dribble:

Oh and btw, I'm no wiz at this, there's probably easier or more 'correct' ways to achieve this - designing a 3D printed box to do it for you is the other alternative I thought may help.... 

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So, I tried printing today with the bushings instead of the bearings. Terrible terrible outcome. My print skipped steps on the Z-axis, meaning that once the print had finished the layers split without much force. And it looked damn ugly, I've swapped one set of bushings back to bearings. Round 2 now.

 

Shouldn't have swapped them out, it was totally fine before I messed with it. <_<

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Strange the problems youve got with the bushings :(  i swapped out mine and cleaned the rods and that was it.

Its a shame because they are so quiet and will last a lot longer than bearings , i can imagine the frustration if they arent working !!!!!!

 

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45 minutes ago, baorevo said:

Strange the problems youve got with the bushings :(  i swapped out mine and cleaned the rods and that was it.

Its a shame because they are so quiet and will last a lot longer than bearings , i can imagine the frustration if they arent working !!!!!!

 

Doesn't really make sense. I got the Y and X axis running smooth, but now they have really tightened up, The second print has come out much worse, I can break the prints in one hand.

Back to bearings. :(

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