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Axial Yeti owners thread


philbr

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Think I have got the shocks sorted. I had some Traxxas shock rebuild kits. Used the bladders from those and they seem ok.

 

Now onto the next problem. The car came with Proline Faultline 2.2 beadlocks and Axial WildPeak MT 2.2s. The wheels come off the beads. I have reseated, tightened down, and it happens again. Got about 60 seconds into a run today and then had to go home in a sulk :crying:

 

I am going to replace the wheels. So I have seen Vanquish Methods which seem popular on here, SSD 2.2 Beadlocks and some Chinese Vanquish knockoffs. I have ruled out the fakes as they seem quite narrow compared to the real ones. The Vanquish are a bit rich for me. What do you lot think of these as an option: http://ssd-rc.com/2.2-rock-racer-beadlock-wheels-(black).html I will probably buy new tires and foams too. Any recommendations?

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16 hours ago, monkeyboy_uk said:

Think I have got the shocks sorted. I had some Traxxas shock rebuild kits. Used the bladders from those and they seem ok.

 

Now onto the next problem. The car came with Proline Faultline 2.2 beadlocks and Axial WildPeak MT 2.2s. The wheels come off the beads. I have reseated, tightened down, and it happens again. Got about 60 seconds into a run today and then had to go home in a sulk :crying:

 

I am going to replace the wheels. So I have seen Vanquish Methods which seem popular on here, SSD 2.2 Beadlocks and some Chinese Vanquish knockoffs. I have ruled out the fakes as they seem quite narrow compared to the real ones. The Vanquish are a bit rich for me. What do you lot think of these as an option: http://ssd-rc.com/2.2-rock-racer-beadlock-wheels-(black).html I will probably buy new tires and foams too. Any recommendations?

 

If you get the chinese ones, but 35mm wide they are perfect:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.X2.2+beadlock+35mm.TRS0&_nkw=2.2+beadlock+35mm&_sacat=0

 

You will need SLW hubs for them though:

 

225 for the front:

http://www.rcmart.com/vanquish-vps01042-wheel-p-57765.html?cPath=421_343

 

725 for the rear:

http://www.rcmart.com/vanquish-vps01041-wheel-p-57766.html?cPath=421_343

 

And some 4-40 bolts, 4-40 x 3/8

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-40-UNC-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-HEXAGON-SOCKET-CAP-ALLEN-KEY-HEAD-IMPERIAL-BOLTS-/112565385769?var=&hash=item1a356b7a29:m:mrbLK37IhcE7tbr672vV7aw

 

 

But the SSD you linked work very well too, had them on my bomber. 

Edited by ostewart
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8 minutes ago, ostewart said:

 

 Thanks for the response. I hadn't seen those wheels.

 

I wonder what the clearance will be like with a 224 front hub. I had been thinking about at 350 or 475 on the front and 725 on the back.

 

I nearly pulled the trigger on some genuine Vanquish Methods, time do some more thinking

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4 hours ago, monkeyboy_uk said:

 

 Thanks for the response. I hadn't seen those wheels.

 

I wonder what the clearance will be like with a 224 front hub. I had been thinking about at 350 or 475 on the front and 725 on the back.

 

I nearly pulled the trigger on some genuine Vanquish Methods, time do some more thinking

 

225 front and 725 rear is the same as stock and clearance isn't an issue as that's what I ran on my yeti.

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  • 2 weeks later...

New wheels, tyres and foams fitted. Along with the oil weights and new shock springs, the handling seems to be improved.

Next issue. I have two softcase lipos where one cell is weak. I have tried various things, but it takes hours to charge them as it trickles the last cell. So what 3S lipo would you recommend that will fit in the battery tray. Looking for something around 5000mah for reasonable run times.

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On 08/10/2017 at 16:18, autobutcher said:

So close to buying one, must stop reading this thread! Where about do you use yours monkey boy?

 

I 've only had it out a few times so far. Took it to RAF Harrowbeer near Yelverton and also to a park near me. Mostly loose gravel, no big jumps.

Now that I have started to work on the handling, it is a much nicer drive. I would recommend one :D

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Took it out today... I broke another titanium link, starting to think they're monkey metal really :lol: and the rear driveshaft.

Put the Hero Session to another dirt, mud and water test mounting to the cage too, it survived, the truck did take some very hard hit though, including a flat out run into a wall, mid-flight and yes it is on film lol, video still to come... :D 

20171015_151925.jpg

20171015_152254.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

After almost a year, I finally got the original Yeti body painted (I was using a Pro-line Baja body before). I used it as an opportunity to try a few things out, glitter paint, flat clear, masking sheets and the net bag from some oranges. I'm in two minds about stickers, I might put the 'Yeti' ones along the side but that is about it.

 

Yeti.jpg

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Ohh, owners thread, didn’t know we had one, anyway here’s mine so far.......

 

E336_AFE7-39_EA-4_CCE-_B8_AA-_B9_C2_BDAB

 

Spec so far 

 

SRT CL6023 23kg servo and SRT alloy servo horn 

SSD D60 rear axle

SSD Trailing arms 

SSD Ti rear upper links

SSD Scale rear driveshaft 

 

Parts on the way 

 

HH Puller Pro R 540-L motor

Vanquish Currie Rockjock rear sway bar kit 

Vanquish Front skid

Vanquish Front shock adjusters

Vanquish Steering rack

Incision Motor mount

Incision Motor cam

RR Gen 3 64t slipper

CI DD foams  

 

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That looks very nice.

 

Yeah I wasn't sure where to post my photos but remembered this thread.

 

My specs are:
Axial - 4 link mounts, body post mount, shock mount plates, sway bar clamp
Castle 1410  - 3800Kv + Sidewinder ESC + 10A BEC
Power HD LW20 servo
SSD Scale rear driveshaft
Vanquish - servo horn, bell crank, clamping lockouts, steering rack, caster blocks, shock tower, skid plate, shock link mounts, sway bar, SLW hubs, Method wheels, steering knuckles
Incision - steel rear upper links, motor mount + motor cam
RR Gen 3 56t slipper
CI foam front bumper
Pro-line single stage closed cell foams.

 

I think I'm done with the build now and will just replace bits when they break or wear out.

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  • 3 months later...

Apologies for abusing this forum, but would any of the many owners be so kind as to measure your front lower suspension control arms for me? I'm keen on using Yeti ones on a project of my own, but not sure they will fit. Specifically interested in the width where they connect to the front differential, overall length, and inner/outer width where they connect to the steering hubs...

 

Thanks!

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Guys, 

i know this is probably been asked earlier in the thread but I’m in need of a motor/esc combo for my Yeti, trouble is I haven’t a clue what kind of motor would suit best.

 

i don’t have a budget as such but money is reasonably tight during the summer hols.

 

i would love the setup @.AJ. has but that’s too far out of my price bracket unfortunately.....

 

thanks chaps :good:

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6 hours ago, .AJ. said:

If you don’t mind sensorless then this what I would get.....

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-ezrun-combo-max10-sct-3660sl-3200kv-brushless-motor/rc-car-products/420924

 

Ive had 2 of these combos and the low end is still really good and very very powerful on 3s 

 

 

 

I did see that exact combo but wasn’t sure whether it would suit.

 

thats perfect, just need to sell my soul to fund it and the paint now :sadwalk:

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Has anyone weighed there Yeti?

I was curious because it felt heavy and was slow with a xerun 3656 4000kv motor, on 2s. Would no doubt be better with same motor but 3400kv on 3s.

It turns out my Yeti needs to go on a diet as it weighs 4.1 KG. And that's with no battery ?

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