icebeaver Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) Hi, I bought my boy a dhk wolf brushed for Christmashttp://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/182816/?gclid=CNuSu4PIicMCFWjItAodRD0ArA The thing went up in smoke so I presume it's the esc or motor, the esc does look a bit burnt lol. Anyway I'm going to get a brushless motor and esc combo as I hear they are more durable. Could anybody give me a few tips on what I need to be looking for or even reccomend a combo, if so my budget is around Edited January 10, 2015 by icebeaver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertberr Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 You're struggle to get a BL esc and motor for 40 quid. Even radient Reaktor system is 45-50. If you don't mind hobbyking, they're probably best bet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisknights Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060778.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X9t+ezrun+brushless+combo&_nkw=9t+ezrun+brushless+combo&_sacat=0 any of theses will be ok but better with a lipo battery or these http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_kw=HobbyFans+4+Poles+9T+4370KV+Brushless+Motor+%2B+60A+ESC+For+1%2F10+1%2F12+RC+Car&_id=121390106961 Edited January 10, 2015 by chrisknights 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Whats the drivetrain like in the Wolf? Diffs / drive cups / shafts? No point putting a BL combo in it if the chassis won't take it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisknights Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 click on link and it said this Throughout the fully ball-raced drive train, there are steel drive shafts and gears with a single plastic gear taking power off the drive pinion, exactly like the 1/8th versions. The toughness of the design is evident just about everywhere and that comes from extensive testing in the most rigorous of conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebeaver Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 click on link and it said this Throughout the fully ball-raced drive train, there are steel drive shafts and gears with a single plastic gear taking power off the drive pinion, exactly like the 1/8th versions. The toughness of the design is evident just about everywhere and that comes from extensive testing in the most rigorous of conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebeaver Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Would it take a brushless chrisknights/capriboy With that said? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Dhk sell a bl version, so they 'think' it will take it: 35a ESC with a 3650 sized, 3970kv can on 2s. Were it me, I'd strip the entire buggy down, check all bearings, ensure diffs are correctly filled and that the drive train is all smooth running, then drop a bl set up in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebeaver Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Yes I will do that, does it have to be 35a I've seen this on eBay for a decent price http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261101462331&alt=web But it's 60a Thanks to everyone who has replied so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I'd take a 60a ESC all day long over a 35a one The one you linked is a bit pants: ezrun and leopard do those finned cans, they are 540 size,but have a 380 rotor inside. This means they run hot and are better suited to lighter, 2wd cars...saying that, I run one in a df02 but that's another story... EBay item:231288013223 That's what I might fit, or, similar but cheaper:http://hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__41130__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_4000KV_80A_UK_Warehouse_.html , with the correct program card of course I'm not a buggy expert, by any means, so my kV recommendations may be off...it was more to point you in alternate directions Hobbyking offer different kV combos, some of which are OOS at the moment Just be sure to select the UK warehouse when searching (default is global, so a longer delivery time from China) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebeaver Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Thanks for that noj That looks pretty decent and it's waterproof which is a bonus. It's around the same kv as the brushless wolf too. I think I will order this, cant go to wrong at that price. How are you supposed to know what connector its got the batteries as it doesn't say, all my bateries are 7.2 tamiya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jea Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) thy don't come with a connector you need to fit your own ... but do yourself a favor and get rid of the Tamiya connectors as thy melt under load. hobby king uk combos here http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__468__192__Electric_Motors-Car_Motor_ESC_Combo.html Edited January 10, 2015 by jea 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebeaver Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Thanks for everyone's help, I've just orderedhttp://hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__41130__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_4000KV_80A_UK_Warehouse_.html And the program card which came to over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 ec3 deans or an XT60 will be fine. it depends what your battery have fitted. if they are a white long looking block with a funny like trigger clip ontop, its a standard tamiya connector. if you have someone local with a good iron and solder. grab yourself a beer and one for buddy your handfull of batterys and esc plus your handful of new conectors and have them soldered on. you can also solder up adaptors to go from say tamiya to deans/ec3/xt60 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebeaver Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Thanks mate, yes they are tamiya connectors so I am going to order some ec3 connectors I think, I have a soldering iron ( im not very good mind but will give it a go) Haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebeaver Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Does anyone think that the vp 5000mah 7.2v caused my esc to burn out as it happened within 5 mins of first use of the battery, no problems before with my 1800mah 7.2v voltz battery. Just wanted I check the battery is not dodgy and fry the new esc combo or by using 5000mah is too much. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 For a brushless combo, I'd also look at the 3800Kv Quicrun with 60A ESC combo. Pretty much a match for the stock brushless, and decent quality. http://www.rcecho.com/HOBBYWING-QUICRUN-3656SL-3800KV-Sensorless-Brushless-Motor-60A-ESC-Combo-ME135.html As far as the battery goes, no...... if it's correctly wired up and the connectors are in good order, there is no reason a battery would kill an ESC. The battery supplies what the ESC requires. Motors can kill ESCs when they fail, as the current draw spikes and the ESC kills itself trying to keep up. If you have a multi-meter...you can check the battery voltage. Mah is an indication of current supplied over time. 5000Mah means 5amps can be supplied for an hour, or 1 amp for 5 hours. It has no relevance to your problem as such. The only reason your battery would be an issue is if it was actually faulty....not just bigger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 The manual's in my budget buggies all state NOT to use a battery over a certain mah, but no explanation why. As Nitrohoilc pointed out there's no reason not to, I think part of it might be though that more mah = longer run times = hotter electrics - doesn't fill you with confidence does it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebeaver Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Thanks for that nitroholoic,I understand what you say and will borrow a multimeter to check just in case. Spot on what you say capriboy, it says in the manual compatable with 7.2 1800mah battery which to me suggests using exactly that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 If the buggy is geared correctly, longer run times will not be an issue. Set ups generally get hot due to incorrect gearing (under or over). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stejeyuk Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Sorry to jump on someone else's thread but the turnigy combo mentioned is an 80amp esc with a max 2s lipo. Im also new to the game but i have a reaktor combo with a 35amp esc and that will take an 3s! Can anyone explain as i am also looking for a cheap bl combo for my daughters vantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuttyProfessor Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 DHK are owned by Ripmax, they are way undergeared from the factory so everything is working overtime at full power. I had a Ripmax Husky that got that hot, the insulation melted and the power wires garrotted my fingers. DHK also run XTM running gear so its pretty tough. Stock leccy bits are terrible in the DHK/Ripmax items so worth upgrading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebeaver Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 (edited) The stock pinion is 21tooth, do your think when I put the new brushless motor in I should change or would this still be ok. And also how do I determine which (pitch)? I need. Thanks Edited January 14, 2015 by icebeaver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuttyProfessor Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Get an IR temp gun, best tool for getting your gearing right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebeaver Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Yeah makes sense, I will get one. Judging by what others have done in similar cars it seems lowering the teeth from 21 to 17 maybe a good start. But what is the pitch? What size would I need? I have read about it but cannot grasp it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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