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less than 6 months old!


fuddy-mucker

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Well.... im afraid my mta4 s28 that is less than 6 months old and has had less than 1 and half gallons of fuel run through its engine is now totally dead!

After issue after issue after issue, every time its gone out its broken... last issue was the gearbox stripping a reverse gear of its teeth and ruining the plastic gears inside. After rebuilding the gearbox tonight, i come to find....
the pullstart not turning the engine over
fly wheel solid!
head off, nothing wrong....
remove the back plate along with pullstart
and....
this is what i find!!!!!!
20141029_195343_zpsfb6b4aaf.jpg

Now... every time it has been run, it has had plenty of after run oil poured down the glow plug hole and down inside the carb. ( not loads inside the carb but enough to give inside a smooth film of protrction at least or at least every effort to do so.)

It has only been a week since the engine has been run ( aro oil used) to say im f66cked off is an understatement! The complete lack of quality control and durability over this product is absolutely disgusting! Im only thankful TT do not make more dangerous goods such as chainsaws or lawnmowers etc...
all in all, its had less than 10 hours run time with a very methodical run in period and well... the picture abkve speaks for itself. Its stored in a warm room within a house away from damp ( obviously). Used all possible means of protection..
in order to remove the pullstart i removed the exhaust manifold pipe to be able to view the exhaust port and found no scoring of the sleeve, nor any dark brown staining ( overheating engine sign) but found none of this. But.. i did find the red aro oil from when it was last used and put away so clearly it got everywhere ( behind the backplate was also smeared with the red aro oil).

Within 6 months the gearbox has needed a rebuild
its now had 3 steering servo's
a replacement fuel tank ( original leaked)
out of the box the pullstart and backplate screws fell out as they had been overtightened and stripped the threads!
the rear left wheel bearing keeps breaking!
stripped 4 wheel hex's ( clearly metal and plastic dont work when torque is applied from metal to plastic!!
the above is just to a name a few.. unfortunately i feel completely put off any future rc purchases and have also decided after such missery and dissapointment that the mta4 will be repaired and sold ( complete everything!)
A hobby is supposed to inspire interest, confusion at times and brief dissapointment and this has done none of the above! Nothing but dissapointment, money and missery.... wish i had saved the money spent and time wasted...

So... from the picture above ( albeit with a full bottle of aro oil the engine now rotates however the oneway bearing in the backplate for the pull/dual starter appears seized. I think from the rust inside it isnt going to be worth messing around with so...
What do i do next? Sell everything as it is? ( theres a fair bit) or replace engine and hope the gearbox works and then sell as a ready to run and go collection?...


What are your thoughts on this?

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Looks as if water has gotten inside the crankcase and rusted it, only way that could happen is if you've driven through a puddle or were driving in the rain and saturated the air filter. ARO wont help in that situation as it'll just sit on top of the water when it's put in. And i know what you mean about quality control on other parts, my Ts4n was the same with stripped pullstart screws. but it's all part and parcel with this hobby.

 

I'd have to say if you wanted something reliable to play with get a deck of cards  :xd:

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Well lets face it... with the crap arse build quality it could probably summon rain in the desert purposely to seize the damn engine!

No it was a hot dry day, im not a fan of standing around in the rain lol. Meh, ive owned classic cars ( 1:1 scale!) And never had so much shi1... al probs get back into classic cars after this lark! So aint worth the hassle

Btw nice spitfire avatar ;) previous dolly 1300 owner :)

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I don't run nitro, but all forms of RC can have their duds. I've got cars that cost X to buy, but in the succeeding years have had three times that original purchase price spent on them.

Any car (almost) can be turned into a reliable basher, but that ain't cheap!

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Okay... appologies for the sounding off in this thread.

Progress!

The engine which was completely seized has now been sorted!

it was stuck completely!!

a pan of boiling hot water and the engine was dropped into it, left to boil the engine in the pan for 5 mins, and then placed straight into the freezer! The heat causing different metals within the engine expand at different rates, same as when they freeze when they contract they do so at different rates.

This resulted in the sleeve coming out very easy! I was then able to disconnect the conrod from the crank shaft so the piston was the removed the crankshaft then came out. Done! ;).

The internall ball bearibg which the crankshaft sits on was the only thing left in.

The crankshaft

and a few other bits were attacked with a wire brush to remove loose rust

the crankshaft centre bearing was also attacked with a wire brush to remove loose rust. The entire engine was blasted with anti rust silicone spray to help shift any last bits and also prevent rust forming further.

The engine components were liberarly coated wuth aro oil and put back together. It now rotates freely wuth good compression and hasnt seized again while being stood.

I am yet to run the engine as i need the metal shim gasket for the heatsink and also a owb for the dual start as nor the pull or drill rotates the engine but turns over fine with the flywheel.

The gearbox needs two screws securing inside and a good spray of white grease on tge metal gears and sealing and it should be good.

My approach to unlocking the engine may seem ridiculous but hell... it worked!! I only hope after a run the slight notchyness when its a bdc goes ( the position the engine was in when it seized so clearly has caused a lip on the crankshaft bearing. But hope this goes when its been run for a bit.

Rob

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Fix it up, sell it and buy a brushless 1/8th scale. Leave all the nitro mess. Buggys and truggys are my preference, also go for a brand with good part support. Thunder Tiger are a bugger for spares.

Breakages will happen to every make of rc, but you seem to of had some real bad luck mate. 

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Ive always let the engine sit at idle for 30 seconds or around that figure then shut off using the exhaust drain the fuel outta the tank and pop the fuel tube off and give the primer bulb a couple of squeezes so the system is purged of fuel.

Im hoping to try and start it up tomorrow ( possibly) so wish me luck!!).

I've put too mych money into this and will lose a lot if i sold as i highly doubt i'd get around the

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Ive always let the engine sit at idle for 30 seconds or around that figure then shut off using the exhaust drain the fuel outta the tank and pop the fuel tube off and give the primer bulb a couple of squeezes so the system is purged of fuel.

Im hoping to try and start it up tomorrow ( possibly) so wish me luck!!).

I've put too mych money into this and will lose a lot if i sold as i highly doubt i'd get around the

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