fuddy-mucker

Hi yes its a pb battery. Just done a quick check and it begins to bubble and fizz as soon as the charger is connected up. Voltage goes from 6.6 volts to over 7 when the charger is connected. Disconnecting and over a period of ten to 15 minutes the voltage steadily drops to 6.6 volts. Im wondering if a new charger might be whats needed?

Hi folks, im hoping someone could kindly help me out we were given a 4 wheeled electric quad by a friend of the family that no longer worked. Having got the multi tester on it we found that despite charging the original battery when the foot operated throttle was used the battery voltage showed 0 so... Having bought another battery excellent issue sorted. However, having started to charge the new battery after approximately 1 hour the batyery can be heard bubbling slightly. It doesnt get warm to the touch. Its an ultramax 6v 4.5ah battery.the charger is the genuine feber charger. Output is 6v 600mah. The battery is a sealed lead acid battery in the link below is the exact battery https://www.ultramax.co.uk/ultramax-np4-5-6-6v-4-5ah-20hr-as-4ah-sealed-lead-acid-rechargeable-battery.html The battery itself has only received approx 4-5 hours charge and when i first heard the bubbling, turned off the charger and disconnected the wiring connector. Tested with multimeter to find it over 7.3 volts. After 10 or so minutes this then dropped to 6.5 volts. This isnt mine but the exact same https://www.gumtree.com/p/other-outdoor-toys/kids-quad-bike-feber-shark-620-with-6-volt-charger/1328260794 Many thanks in advance

I just had quite a few problems in fairness... evwn when just running on flat grass and not even running hard. Would you be willing to sell the 28 spares you have?. That engine looks good really especially for the money too!. You say you upgrades your s28 upto an s50, what did you need to change?. At the minute im in two minds wether to stick to s28 parts (cheaper for me and would be easier). Or... upgrade everything to s50 spec, little more expensive but doubt the truck will break as easily/often. Thanks Rob

Nicelys! What a way forward. The prices here in the u.k are pretty expensive i find. Even with shipping its cheaper to come from the u.s! Thanks for info and i'll be sure to check them out fella!. Just a quick question, having seen the prices and availability of parts etc... im seriously considering a full strip down, replace every nut, screw etc for stainless as they sell them as a complete kit for the mta. And also... rebuild it back upto being an mgt8.0. Engine, box, cvds, hex's and wheels and a few little upgrades a reckon. Can anyone make a list of thibgs i'll need to convert my mta4 s28 (mgt 4.6) into an s50 (mgt 8.0). Just make sure. Thanks in advance!! Rob

Evssv, is the s28 and the mgt 4.6 the exact same?. Just looking on american ebay and wow!! Loads of spares and parts lol wish id thought about it sooner. Whats the difference between the two? I know they are the same but.... anything to be weary of? Thanks fella Rob

Hi all.... Well its been sometimes since i paid a visit to the forum. In may 2013 i bought a brand new tt mta4 s28 from js models at a good rate and despite having a few teething issues... well... constant battles i did finalky get the truck running well. However, on the ladt outting ( septber 2013) i took the truck out and despite the weather being really warm i ventured on to the grass with the truck and unknowingly to me at the time further down the field the truck had become wet due to damp grass. The spray had got past the backingplate and made its way into the engine. ( the grass was also quite long). The engine cut out and took a good 15-20 minutes before it would fire back up. Pullstart and rotostart used. Then once running again i chose to let it idle for a few mins to dry out and then gave it a few passes on tarmac and suddenly the gearbox appeared to die. So... that was the end of it. It was brought home, put on top of the unit and left until my next day available to muck around with it. 3-4 days later despite using aro after every use, the engine had locked solid!! Bearing in mind the truck was only 5 months old. I stripped the engine to find the internals were seized solid with rust. I managed to free it all off but the crankshaft bearing is nothcy and the sleeve is marked and scored. Engines is only fot for the bin i think as the owb was also seized and now theres a few bits missing too from storage. I rebuilt the gearbox but found it a tad complicated due to having a reverse gear but... i believe i got there in the end but havent tried it out. For the past two years it has sat in my parents loft space. Im now in two mind as to what to do, it has got: Copper spring upgrade all round x8. Dual tank mod running in series and works Byron big air filter Rebuilt gearbox ( believe it should work) A few other bits iirc. But with a dead engine, unknown if the gearbox.will work properly or not Various screws and other bits missing i.e... clutch springs, carb clamp, all the slipper clutch parts but to name a few. Do i give up and bin it ( a waste!) Or... could one or a few of you guys help?. Ideally i would like to buy a brand new engine, seal.and start again lol. But buy a 2nd hand truck to use as spares to keep costs low ideally. As ive also just moved out but.. this hobby is addictive lol!. So... what would you do? Also do you have an mta4 s28 you would be willing to sell for spares? Im in the u.k, in west yorkshire. Id much sooner repair the truck without it crippling me.financially as.. truth be told, i bought truck from inheritence i got my from grandfather. I bought it with the money because my grandad used to fly model aircrafts and occasionally used to have a go with one of my rc cars and i biught the truck really... to be reminded of the times we had and the time we spent tinkering and fixing together. Learning new things. Such as.. how to strip the hobbypro mutilator 6 carb without loosing the carb settings despite removing the jets.and how to re-use gaskets without the use of sealant etc etc.. I dont want this to sound like a sob story however this truck does mean something to me but i also now have responsibilties financially and in the back of my mind.. know that if the truck is in bits and never runs again.. it wont matter because i still have it but...would be nkce to see it running again. Sorry if anyone finds this hard to read im using my phone due to no broadband at the minute having just moved out . Thanks in advance and sorry for the ramble lol Rob

Thanks guys, Ive seen the complete engine on ebay at 104 quid. That would be the easiest option bar none as all i would have to do is strip n seal it with hylomar engine sealent and reassemble and tune and break in. Having thought about it, this would probably be the best option as my current cylinder line has signs of scoring too. I have looked around for that bug ball bearing race for the crankshaft inside the crankcasing but cant find where i can buy just that bearing from. Although... i have found this! http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/gt.html A steel spur gear for the s28!! No more plastic breaking lol! Rc10 gt machine steel spur with clutch bell. Should fit shouldnt it? Thanks rob

Hi everyone, its been a while since my last visit due to financial and housing changes etc. My last post was about 5-6 months ago when my 6 month old mta4 S28's engine had seized. I managed to "un-seize" the engine due to rust on the lower internal parts it was subsequently stripped and cleaned and then re-assembled. now it turns over with lots of compression and seems okay. Except on one part of the rotation of the engine it appear to "stick" as if there is rust in the bigger main ball bearing race in the bottom of the crank case. so having googled all over the place i can't find this standalone bearing so... fear my engine is duff. theres also wear to the piston liner. can anyone point me in the right direction for a new s28 engine (not bothered for the s50 engine as I just want to get it running again correctly) and a screw set for the whole truck? if anyone has a spare "known to be working in good condition engine" I may well be interested pro 28bdr however. Thanks in advance Rob

Hi all... after a few months away, a house move and working long hours i may in the next month or so be able to allow some time to get the s28 back up and running. My engine had seized and was freed off however it is now grating and notching when turned over by the fly wheel. Because its also in bits im going to take this opportunity to completely sort it out and make it more reliable in the process.. Heres the plan.. New engine ( possibly s50 engine brand new). Strip and seal with hylomar sealent. S50 gearbox ( what else do i need ? Diffs? Shafts? Hex changes? ) also... im wanting metal wheels as im sick of the metal hex nuts rounding the plastic wheels off. I have managed to sort this by using lockthread and two wheel nuts per wheel. But still a weak point ( where can you buy metal wheels? Im going to take my time with it and really get it sorted. So when it goes out for the first time its just breaking in the new engine and tuning. Afterwards as always minor tuning tweaks and thats it.. i wont be running the mta4 for as long as i used to i.e being out all day with it, fixing and breaking stuff, just thinking of taking it out for half an hour or so after that it can just sit in the house lol. So.. what else do i need to conver the s28 into an s50? Thanks Rob

Ive always let the engine sit at idle for 30 seconds or around that figure then shut off using the exhaust drain the fuel outta the tank and pop the fuel tube off and give the primer bulb a couple of squeezes so the system is purged of fuel. Im hoping to try and start it up tomorrow ( possibly) so wish me luck!!). I've put too mych money into this and will lose a lot if i sold as i highly doubt i'd get around the

Okay... appologies for the sounding off in this thread. Progress! The engine which was completely seized has now been sorted! it was stuck completely!! a pan of boiling hot water and the engine was dropped into it, left to boil the engine in the pan for 5 mins, and then placed straight into the freezer! The heat causing different metals within the engine expand at different rates, same as when they freeze when they contract they do so at different rates. This resulted in the sleeve coming out very easy! I was then able to disconnect the conrod from the crank shaft so the piston was the removed the crankshaft then came out. Done! . The internall ball bearibg which the crankshaft sits on was the only thing left in. The crankshaft and a few other bits were attacked with a wire brush to remove loose rust the crankshaft centre bearing was also attacked with a wire brush to remove loose rust. The entire engine was blasted with anti rust silicone spray to help shift any last bits and also prevent rust forming further. The engine components were liberarly coated wuth aro oil and put back together. It now rotates freely wuth good compression and hasnt seized again while being stood. I am yet to run the engine as i need the metal shim gasket for the heatsink and also a owb for the dual start as nor the pull or drill rotates the engine but turns over fine with the flywheel. The gearbox needs two screws securing inside and a good spray of white grease on tge metal gears and sealing and it should be good. My approach to unlocking the engine may seem ridiculous but hell... it worked!! I only hope after a run the slight notchyness when its a bdc goes ( the position the engine was in when it seized so clearly has caused a lip on the crankshaft bearing. But hope this goes when its been run for a bit. Rob

Whats the point in manufacturers using customers as developers?.. I mean c'mon.. you dont buy a car from bmw or ford for that matter and have to rebuild it every time you use it :/. Why not build them fit for the purpose in the first place?

Speedods you have pm too, btw also has byrons gen 2 dual race intakr air filter. Byrons gen 2 race fuel at 25%.

Well lets face it... with the crap arse build quality it could probably summon rain in the desert purposely to seize the damn engine! No it was a hot dry day, im not a fan of standing around in the rain lol. Meh, ive owned classic cars ( 1:1 scale!) And never had so much shi1... al probs get back into classic cars after this lark! So aint worth the hassle Btw nice spitfire avatar previous dolly 1300 owner

Pistonhead and sleeve

Well.... im afraid my mta4 s28 that is less than 6 months old and has had less than 1 and half gallons of fuel run through its engine is now totally dead! After issue after issue after issue, every time its gone out its broken... last issue was the gearbox stripping a reverse gear of its teeth and ruining the plastic gears inside. After rebuilding the gearbox tonight, i come to find.... the pullstart not turning the engine over fly wheel solid! head off, nothing wrong.... remove the back plate along with pullstart and.... this is what i find!!!!!! Now... every time it has been run, it has had plenty of after run oil poured down the glow plug hole and down inside the carb. ( not loads inside the carb but enough to give inside a smooth film of protrction at least or at least every effort to do so.) It has only been a week since the engine has been run ( aro oil used) to say im f66cked off is an understatement! The complete lack of quality control and durability over this product is absolutely disgusting! Im only thankful TT do not make more dangerous goods such as chainsaws or lawnmowers etc... all in all, its had less than 10 hours run time with a very methodical run in period and well... the picture abkve speaks for itself. Its stored in a warm room within a house away from damp ( obviously). Used all possible means of protection.. in order to remove the pullstart i removed the exhaust manifold pipe to be able to view the exhaust port and found no scoring of the sleeve, nor any dark brown staining ( overheating engine sign) but found none of this. But.. i did find the red aro oil from when it was last used and put away so clearly it got everywhere ( behind the backplate was also smeared with the red aro oil). Within 6 months the gearbox has needed a rebuild its now had 3 steering servo's a replacement fuel tank ( original leaked) out of the box the pullstart and backplate screws fell out as they had been overtightened and stripped the threads! the rear left wheel bearing keeps breaking! stripped 4 wheel hex's ( clearly metal and plastic dont work when torque is applied from metal to plastic!! the above is just to a name a few.. unfortunately i feel completely put off any future rc purchases and have also decided after such missery and dissapointment that the mta4 will be repaired and sold ( complete everything!) A hobby is supposed to inspire interest, confusion at times and brief dissapointment and this has done none of the above! Nothing but dissapointment, money and missery.... wish i had saved the money spent and time wasted... So... from the picture above ( albeit with a full bottle of aro oil the engine now rotates however the oneway bearing in the backplate for the pull/dual starter appears seized. I think from the rust inside it isnt going to be worth messing around with so... What do i do next? Sell everything as it is? ( theres a fair bit) or replace engine and hope the gearbox works and then sell as a ready to run and go collection?... What are your thoughts on this?

Hi all, I need help again, my S28 broke a tooth on a (reverse or forward gear) don't know which is which. This resulted in my plastic gears being ruined and subsequently being replaced. upon replacing the (reverse or forward metal gear) I found I had a small gear left over and appear to have this missing from my gearbox upon rebuilding. http://www.ruberkon.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/265x/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/p/d/pd1444-forword-reverse-drive-gears-mta4.jpg the above image shows the two gears in question. The one "without" the holes is the one I'm struggling to locate. could some kind person take pictures or locate pictures of what the gearbox internally should like ? this would be massively appreciated!!!!! Thanks Rob

Hi guys, Just part way through my gearbox rebuild but having a little trouble locating a missing gear. Could someone please take a picture of the gearbox internals on an s28? Thanks Rob

Hhmm its not as though it does spend time in the air though as i dont want to break it purposely as im a little on edge already about it breaking. As an alternative then... how about an electric rc? Nitro isnt bad in the respect of cheap parts. Common issues you all talk of such as the driveline grub screws coming loose, never had this issue personally as with most nuts, screws etc i dont just use lockthread but also use lock wire too! So they can't come loose at all. Not just on the grub screws but also everywhere else virtually. After every run it is methodically cleaned, Aro oil run down the bore and pulled via the pullstart 3-4 times and a couple more drops put down the bore. And the piston set to bdc using the flywheel with the glow plug out with a torch to be able to see. The wheels vs hex, the nyloc nuts securing the wheels kept coming loose, after 10 mins or so of running, couldnt get through a single tank of fuel without one coming loose. That issue is now sorted and so far... in the last 3 times its been out ( approx 3 hours in total... i have checked the tightness of the wheels as i havent had a need to check them. I know they are tight as i cant see them coming loose, i cant feel the slop and again... the axle threads have been coated with lockthread and locking wire round the threaded section of the axle and x2 nyloc nuts per wheel too. If they come loose after that.... something is seriously wrong i.e axle threads made of cheese! They use this kind of method on steering components for classic cars ( i know ive done it ). So the wheels are no longer an issue. Its just if its gunna break, bringing an electric monster rc out to carry on the fun is that likely to break too? Ive had look on ms website for parts for a few electric rc's and they dont seem to stock them? Are they really that reliable??! Lol I do normally allow my nitro to cool between tanking anyway, just bored of it breaking really :/

Thinking the same thing tbqh fella... nitro is fun but electric to run in place of the nitro when it busts would be cool. Its just a nightmare really and seriously dont understand how companies that make products that break so quickly are still operating... anywho... I'll have a look around at electric and stuff that you can do to electric i dont mind spending money over the course of a few months building up a little stack of batteries so when bashing i can swap the batteries and go again its cheaper overall than buying nitro fuel every two minutes lol you keep the batteries just gotta charge them up lol Just spotted a cheap shenqi hummer 1:5 petrol rc on ebay, yeah its ebay, but its cheap and seller is willing to show it running. I know its a risk buying off ebay but... just out of curiosity are these actually any good? Thanks Rob

Ive bought two brand new, and bought 2 via ebay... the ones via ebay had minor issues but ran great and never gave me too much hassle... the two new ones ( one of which is my current and only nitro) is giving me constant headaches... Every time it goes out, it breaks. Part of the hobby is fixing it yes but for pittys sake.... :/ fix it and ten mins of running something broken... :/ thats not cricket! Yes all the screws and nuts etc were checked and lockthreaded hence why when i tipped the truck up the pullstart fell off and the screws for the pullstart fell out due to them being overtightened at factory, steipping the threads from the back plate. I mean ... are you supposed to be able to take nitro or petrol out as you would if like another similar hobby? Example motorcross, or quad, 4x4 offroading for example? Go out, have fun for a few hours, clean em off and ready for next time? With only repairs say you went out 10xs 3 of those times something broke?.. not every time man... jesus whats point in paying over 500 quid for all the gear etc etc if every time you take it out it breaks! Longest ive had it run without a major issue is 3 hours and thats it.. but even then it sat busted for 3 months.

Right o then, got a good s50 box anyone? Lol my spurs in good shape so issues there

Will the s50 box just fit in and be ready to go or will i need prop shafts, cvds, hex's etc? Hhmm i do feel like its just one thong breaking at a time now rather than multiple things breaking i guess lol.

also... my grub screws aren't the issue, my issue is the reverse gear lost a tooth and that got embedded into my first motion gear forward gear and knackered it.. what weak points do I need in my gearbox? sounds a bit strange needing a weak point in drivetrain lol rob

i no longer have the leaning out issues as previously experienced with just the one tank, I also have no more issues for stripping the wheel hexs etc now, the steering servo i know can be a weak point but ive replaced the oirignal with another ace original servo and seems to work fine at the minute... but fear it will go soon (already tried a hd1501mg servo that failed within 10 minutes of use.. :/ what other weak area's do I have? also... whats the best surface to run on? regularly cut grass that isn't too long or dirt i.e woods ? also.. how long do you expect or want to run your nitro for in one go? i.e go out and want to be out for hours on end or just a quick blast for an hour? Rob