monkhouse Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Hi I have a brand new tamiya sport tuned motor and before it goes in the lunchbox I want to run it in to give it the best chance performance wise. I've heard before that brushed motors can be dunked in water and connected to a battery to run in the brushes, is this true? If so how is it done exactly? I don't wanna cause any damage to the motor obviously! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 i personally wouldn`t bother fella, slot it straight in and for the first coupls of packs run at no more than 3/4 throttle to bed in the brushes then go for it. the running in method was to gain a extra 1/10th when it was commonplace for racing, you wont notice that kind of difference for bashing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderwolf Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkhouse Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 Cool what about drying the motor afterwards or do I use wd40? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawalker666 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Dont use wd40 use gt85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mugen mark Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 it does work,i done it before,but unless your racing,i wouldnt bother,you wont notice the difference bashing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wnb Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Seems crazy putting an electric motor in water to run in, after watching the above video it kinda makes scense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grampy Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 all I do now is just take it easy and not make sudden breaking or hard pull offs and so far it seams to work. wd40 is a contact spray and will more than likely do more damage than good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igbandy Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Please don`t water dip your motor, all it does is wear the brushes down a great deal. Great for silver can racing, but in a Lunchbox it isnt worth it. A drop of WD40 on a silver can commutator will improve the RPM by a 1000 or so, an old trick from silver can racing. When I run in a motor after a rebuild it gets 3 mins at 3 volts, then another 3 minutes at 5 volts. This is generally all a motor needs, apart from silver can`s with granite brushes instead of carbon brushes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) Incorrect water acts as a lubricant and flushes carbon specs away from the winding. so back when i was a little boy'ish dude , a half skinny geeky runt that had this tamiya grasshopper and a sport tuned motor, in them days we ran 1100mah packs they was like propper awesome best you could have cost a fortune. now us old racers had an extra battery or two namely BIG D size batterys. DC voltage low voltage is ok in water ( its why your lights flash when your cars roof deep in a pond/swimmingpool) Now motors back then came with brushes that were either V cut or they were flat end. either way they gave alotta sparking ( arcing) now this causes pits in the shaft and damages it. so what we used to do is hook up a D sized battery to our motor and bathe it in a water bath, the low voltage and the water helped stop arcing and helped wear in the brushes. a flat brush would end up with a nice curved edge following the shaft, A V cut brush would bed down and form a nice curved edge. The water is used to lubricate and wash away the carbon thats worn off, the same stuff that coats the inside of motors that fine gray dust. now without that arcing you transfer more electric to the windings and hence the motor, in racing in the old days we done this to help with smoother running and not to blow out brushes. When a brush blows out its shatters into shards, it clogs up the motor and the windings overheat, they burn out. to save racers the hassle of this in the first straight or mid race, we spent the time and effort making sure brushes were a flush fit contoured to the com shaft. These days technology and making these things have moved on, brushes now can be formed with a already nice surface and a profiled curve to com shafts. Edited February 19, 2014 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 personally i would listen to what igbandy says, he is nothing short of a magician with a brushed motor. i know this first hand from owning some "igified" motors and playing with andy`s own rigs. the torque and speed is immense and i would trust no one else to rebuild me a brushed motor, END OF!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 ^^what he said. Igbandy is the brushed motor guru....some say he is in fact powered by brushes, and regularly oils his commutator.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igbandy Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Please don`t water dip your motor, all it does is wear the brushes down a great deal. Great for silver can racing Please note, I said it was fine for silver can racing where the motors are considered bin fodder after a few runs. But in a lunchbox its a waste of time. The biggest problem with people water dipping motors is when they do it to modified motors etc after they watch some idiot on youtube do it. Then send me a knackered motor that is bin fodder, or will take 1 rebuild then is thrown away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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