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Maesterio's Baja


maesterio

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I ordered my one just before Christmas. Its the exact same as yours.

The front suspension plastics are a bit brittle to be honest

I have landed mine pretty heavy and broken a couple of supports

Then crashed it bad and bent the nose of the chassis and the top support plate. Its all back in one working piece now and waiting for my day off

Your hop ups make sense and im sure will give a bit of longevity to your model. Suspension arms are bombproof though! ;-)

I like your black roll cage

Looking forward to seeing your baja fitted with your hop ups when they arrive!!

G

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if your not happy dude send it back, things are never as described than on their website. i ordered a002c and it came with a chrome chassi not black like pictured. Minor things but it really pisses me off !

 

But apart from the bodyshell it looks like a 002c (not that theres much difference apart from engine size)

 

Also these arent genuine engines however will do you well and have plenty power.

 

Oh yeah, I forgot that point. It is a KM version of the engine. It again isn't terrible but that will probably not outlast the plastics.

wish that was true about my engine :( ive got no real power at all :(

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ive been told it could be one of 2 things, spacers on coil not there causing to grind and not give a proper spark or ive got an air leak somewhere ive got a guy going to look it over and try and fix for me as he is more knowledgeable than me and my dad for 2 strokes in general i hope he can fix it :(

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There not rocket science. They need air, fuel and a spark to run. Check it's getting these 3 things (correctly in the correct quantities) and u can go wrong. A good strip down and proper rebuild usually does the job if no catastrophic damage is found.

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wish that was true about my engine :( ive got no real power at all :(

That's not King Motors fault. That was the re-assemblers fault.

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ive been told it could be one of 2 things, spacers on coil not there causing to grind and not give a proper spark or ive got an air leak somewhere ive got a guy going to look it over and try and fix for me as he is more knowledgeable than me and my dad for 2 strokes in general i hope he can fix it :(

You lost your coil spacers so the coil is shorting out against the head, there's no grinding anywhere.

 

Any kind of a plastic/glass/porcelain/ceramic/wood 2mm spacer that will fit over the coil mounting screws and doesn't conduct electricity will work, just make sure they are both the same thickness.

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Just found my old thread on my km.

Quick read and it was the inner sliver lock beadlocks that didn't fit, otters fitted fine.

For any tips have a look at my old Baja thread maesterio - http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/183867-slidesquads-km-baja-002c-first-bash-problems/

I sold it for my 5ive which I love. But I will defo own another km in the future. There just so much fun for the money.

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I have Silverbacks inner and outer front and back. V3 lipped outers and V2 Losi inner. I'm running the stock outers on the front though as the lips are a little on the big side for the front IMO. But they fit like a dream.

 

Maybe it's because I didn't get the "Baja" specific, but they were listed as fitting all baja's and the Losi. Dunno.

 

017_zps8c062ae7.jpg

Edited by Trip...
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Mine are the older HPI style wheels and I see his were the proline style, so maybe that's the difference.  I do know that when putting on the inner rings that I had to put the screws in every other hole to get the rings to line up with the wheel, but only on the inners, the outers went on fine.

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Mine are the older HPI style wheels and I see his were the proline style, so maybe that's the difference.  I do know that when putting on the inner rings that I had to put the screws in every other hole to get the rings to line up with the wheel, but only on the inners, the outers went on fine.

 

That's pretty normal, they can be irritating to put on, especially if the wheel and tyre isn't aligned 100% :lol:

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Some very useful advice on here  :thumbsup:

 

Anwyays, got a couple parts from eBay & rcmodelz. Still awaiting delivery on parts from mmr largescale.  :sly:

 

2jcj4u0.jpg

 

Limiting cables

Sway bars

Mud flaps

AL clutch bell carrier

AL led lights

 

I had time to put the lights on, I really wanna do the rest when parts from mmr get here.

 

2vimixd.jpg

 

5razr.jpg

 

Some really great parts from KM, I know other 'respected' brands make these lights as well but KM in no way are inferior to them. Quality is excellent. 

 

Will update when I get the other parts, cannot break in cause weather is really sh*

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I tried my hyper 7 with & without sway bars. There is a bit of a difference when you corner, but I have read that the thickness of the sway bar needs to be properly tuned with the shocks to get the optimal use out of them.

Here is a explanation from a guy on rc tech on what they do.

"Actually, the swaybar is design to affect the car's roll center. The stiffer the sway bar the higher the roll center and vice versa. By using a thinner bar you are lowering the roll center and allowing the car to roll more while cornering because it's allowing more weight transfer which will result in more traction. However a stiffer bar will reduce weight transfer and rise the roll center thus reducing body roll while cornering. THE BAR IS SUPPOSE TO RISE THE OTHER SIDE DURING COMPRESSION, THATS HOW IT KEEPS THE CAR FLATTER WHILE CORNERING AND IT'S ALSO WHAT REDUCES THE ROLL OR THE CAR WANTING TO LEAN OVER WHILE CORNERING ALLOWING FOR FASTER CORNER SPEEDS."

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Are you going to be running the sway bar set straight away?

If not I'd be curious to what you think of them, never really seen the point and don't see many reviews so it would be good to get some feedback on the comparison between running with and without.

Mine came with front and rear swaybars installed, but the wire was so thin it wouldn't transfer the lateral moment to the other side. So if you have the back wheels off the ground, as you move the right rear, the left rear should raise slightly (for a thin swaybar) and raise higher (for a heaver/thicker swaybar) The thin piece of welding wire they used on mine didn't transfer anything front or rear. I removed my rear because one of the janky swaybar mounts was over tightened by the sweat shop worker that assembled it and it was broken out of the box.

 

The swaybar on my KM is about as thick as fence wire, whereas the SB on my FG M/T is about .250"/2mm The only thing the swaybar did on my KM was rub it's endlinks on my dog bone boots. If that happens, just cut a bit off the ends of the wire and put the links back on.

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