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Bigjimknickers

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The supplied charging leads dont look very good though very skinny wire and fake deans I think. But I just brought a metre of charging wire and make the plugs I need walla.

That is a nice charger tho @ 42 looks pretty slick too. Can anyone conpare the specs of it against mine the one I linked too?

Edited by RCbutcher
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http://www.giantshark.co.uk/product/170694/gt-power-b606-balance-charger-li-po-ni-mh-battery

combined with

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/product/171869/gt-power-ac-adapter-15v-70a-output

 

I've had one for nearly a year now, and not had any issues. I bought it for charging 3S LiPos for some non-RC kit I have and it's been flawless. I also use it for my sealed lead acid batteries, and NiMh batteries.

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I dunno mate cos that overlander is an 80w the ones I linked are 50w so yours could be better. My charger does everything tho and veryssafe if I could change anything it would be the discharge amp rating or ??? As mine only allows upto 1a discharge and takes ages. But its still a great charger for me im just slowly buying or making better quality charging cables.

See what amp discharge yours goes up to im intrested to know how watts affect a charger and if its a huge difference from 50w to 80w

Ide never ever even consider an imaxx charger tho lol theres just too high a chance its a fake im told as I wanted to get the imaxx b6ac I think it is but was soon told steer clear just in case but ive also seen alot of people say there good chargers. But for all I know mine is a fake too lol.

This imaxx

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMax-B6-Digital-LCD-Lipo-NiMh-battery-Balance-Charger-AC-Adapter-Accessories-/290908002384?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item43bb77d850

Lipo scares me alot im still deciding which lipo to go for with the savage xs most likly a 3s from hobbyking nanotec but I need the motor combo first. Ive just been fooled into buying the jeep rubi shell for the xs from towerhobbies cos it was $12 so I wanted to see what the shipping would be and before I knew it ide signed up for a yrs membership and completed the order that $12 turned into $27 lol. Thats with $10 TH membership which I need to find out what it does apart from an rc magazine.

Edited by RCbutcher
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I got this to replace an old broken charger and does the job well http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_accessories.html

Don't include a mains-12v power pack but less than tenner on same site for one tho

Comes with the 12v car battery connection leads tho

Edited by marder
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Hi guys, can I bump this thread as I'm after exactly the same thing as soon as possible. I've looked at the links and have a few points.... The hobby king stuff would be coming from the states wouldn't it? If so, that could take a long time.

I'm not sure whether to trust items from ebay as there are so many fake goods out there. I like the look of the overlander.... Is this the best charger (for the money) that is currently linked on here? And am I right that it comes with a power supply cord?

Thanks

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Hi guys, can I bump this thread as I'm after exactly the same thing as soon as possible. I've looked at the links and have a few points.... The hobby king stuff would be coming from the states wouldn't it? If so, that could take a long time.

I'm not sure whether to trust items from ebay as there are so many fake goods out there. I like the look of the overlander.... Is this the best charger (for the money) that is currently linked on here? And am I right that it comes with a power supply cord?

Thanks

I totally agree, it's so hard to tell on eBay, so I'm simply going to buy the Overlander again, I know it's good reliable charger & it won't be fake from msuk.

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Thanks Jim, does it come with everything that I'd need? I'm completely new to RC Cars and its a steep learning curve! I've got a brushless FTX Carnage with 3 x Lipos at the moment and I really like it for my first car.

Problem is, I'm making mistakes as I go and they could prove costly. I initially had 3 Lipos... 1 x voltz 2500mah, 1 x voltz 2700mah and 1 x zippy 4000mah. I took it out for its first spin using the 4000mah and stupidly ran the battery far too low....to such a degree that my charger won't charge it anymore! It may be dead but hey ho, expensive lesson learnt. I know that they may be revived but it can be dangerous and I'm too new to this to risk it.

I was using a pocket turnigy charger but it obviously isn't up to the task, hence my question on here. I won't be taking the car out again until I get a balance charger which is why I was asking the initial question here. I just want to know that it will include everything I need?

I think all my Lipos are 2 cell but I plan on replacing the 4000mah with maybe a 3 or 4 cell

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Right, first off, yes get the Overlander charger, it has everything in the box & is a doddle to use, second if your carnage is brushless then I'd suggest finding a way to turn on the lvc (low voltage cutoff) so it warns you before the lipos get too low, I always use a lipo alarm too, there

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Thanks again Jim, it does have an ETRONIX programme card that I've just plugged in for the following readings:

Cut off voltage - no LED lit up

Auto Lipo cut off volts/cell - 3.5v

Drag brake - both 10% and 20% LED lit up

Brakes strength - both LEDs lit up at the 50% mark

Punch control - first two LEDs lit up out of 6 so around 33%

Reverse type - proportional rev. Lock out

Motor type - brushless w/o sensor

Motor timing - normal

I've got a photo but can't work out how to upload it! Does all of that sound about right? I do remember the car cutting out at points towards the end of the first session but in my hyped up noobish state I persisted with plunging the accelerator over and over thinking that that rx receiver was not receiving the tx signal properly. First and last time learning that lesson!

I've heard people say that 3.2v is the preferred cut off point but mine is set higher. Does that mean it is set safer for noobs like me?

As for the new lipo, I didn't realise (so much to learn!) and I thank you for pointing this out. I'm assuming that it would be better to look for a higher capacity 2s? Something like a new 4000 or 5000mah?

Thanks in advance and sorry for hijacking your thread! I'll start a new one if you'd prefer

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I dunno mate cos that overlander is an 80w the ones I linked are 50w so yours could be better. My charger does everything tho and veryssafe if I could change anything it would be the discharge amp rating or ??? As mine only allows upto 1a discharge and takes ages. But its still a great charger for me im just slowly buying or making better quality charging cables.

See what amp discharge yours goes up to im intrested to know how watts affect a charger and if its a huge difference from 50w to 80w

Ide never ever even consider an imaxx charger tho lol theres just too high a chance its a fake im told as I wanted to get the imaxx b6ac I think it is but was soon told steer clear just in case but ive also seen alot of people say there good chargers. But for all I know mine is a fake too lol.

This imaxx

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMax-B6-Digital-LCD-Lipo-NiMh-battery-Balance-Charger-AC-Adapter-Accessories-/290908002384?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item43bb77d850

Lipo scares me alot im still deciding which lipo to go for with the savage xs most likly a 3s from hobbyking nanotec but I need the motor combo first. Ive just been fooled into buying the jeep rubi shell for the xs from towerhobbies cos it was $12 so I wanted to see what the shipping would be and before I knew it ide signed up for a yrs membership and completed the order that $12 turned into $27 lol. Thats with $10 TH membership which I need to find out what it does apart from an rc magazine.

if you get the imax one from hobbyking it's a genuine one, they also sell the fake for some god only knows reason lol

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Thanks again Jim, it does have an ETRONIX programme card that I've just plugged in for the following readings:

Cut off voltage - no LED lit up

Auto Lipo cut off volts/cell - 3.5v

Drag brake - both 10% and 20% LED lit up

Brakes strength - both LEDs lit up at the 50% mark

Punch control - first two LEDs lit up out of 6 so around 33%

Reverse type - proportional rev. Lock out

Motor type - brushless w/o sensor

Motor timing - normal

I've got a photo but can't work out how to upload it! Does all of that sound about right? I do remember the car cutting out at points towards the end of the first session but in my hyped up noobish state I persisted with plunging the accelerator over and over thinking that that rx receiver was not receiving the tx signal properly. First and last time learning that lesson!

I've heard people say that 3.2v is the preferred cut off point but mine is set higher. Does that mean it is set safer for noobs like me?

As for the new lipo, I didn't realise (so much to learn!) and I thank you for pointing this out. I'm assuming that it would be better to look for a higher capacity 2s? Something like a new 4000 or 5000mah?

Thanks in advance and sorry for hijacking your thread! I'll start a new one if you'd prefer

No problem, I always buy turnigy 5000mah 40c 2s & 3s (from hobbyking uk) so that I can use them in all my cars which range from 1/8 savage to 1/10 sct & my lads savage xs, these give great runtimes & I've never had one puff up yet, I'm pretty new to it all too so I can't properly explain discharge rates (40c) I just keep them high!

I always use the buzzers but I find that they can be a bit random in there detecting so I'm currently trying to set my lvc to 3.3v per cell on all my trucks.

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Thanks, so it looks like my car is set up correctly for me at the mo and the LVC is set at 3.5v. I'll just have to keep an eye on things as we go. Can you link me the Lipos that you use? I'm sure they came recommended to you so I trust that they are fairly priced and good for the money.

I'll be ordering the charger asap

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No problem, I always buy turnigy 5000mah 40c 2s & 3s (from hobbyking uk) so that I can use them in all my cars which range from 1/8 savage to 1/10 sct & my lads savage xs, these give great runtimes & I've never had one puff up yet, I'm pretty new to it all too so I can't properly explain discharge rates (40c) I just keep them high!

I always use the buzzers but I find that they can be a bit random in there detecting so I'm currently trying to set my lvc to 3.3v per cell on all my trucks.

 

lets say your battery is 2200 mah , thats 2.2amps.

now your battery has a 40c rate that means it can clearly discharge 40 x 2.2 amps so thats 88amps your motor/esc can safely drain.

now sometimes there is a burst mode battery will say something like 40c-130c, the latter is the burst discharge.

burst rate ( this is when you hammer hard from 0mph to max, the esc pulls lots of power so the battery has to throw lots out, if the battery is not able to it can become what we call puffy, the battery works to hard and shorts out inside it gets hot and gasses are released the battery then dies a nasty death )

 

this means some esc allow burst mode for say 10s so 130x2.2amps = 286amps over them very few short seconds.

 

this is what your C discharge rate is about, how much just can be pulled from the battery.

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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