mchaggis Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 HI just built a annsman virus 3.0 and fitted a force .28 4.6cc engine after getting it to start the clutch bell started to smoke stopped engine felt clutch bell was very hot , any ideas why this is ? ( must be binding ) but I can't see why or adjust it .. any input appreciated with thanks Mchaggis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchaggis Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Anyone pls ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikardo Dust Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Did it spin freely when you built it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Couple of things to check... 1) as above....with the motor out of the car, does the clutch bell move freely. 2) Are the bearings in the bell both properly seated and free rolling The heat will come from the shoes rubbing the bell, and a number of things cause this. If bell spins freely, most likely it's a failed bearing. This can cause the bell to wobble, rubbing the shoes, or else just binds making the bell spin with the crank. If it doesn't, then check the springs are all in good order and properly seated. Spring failure will let the shoes flop onto the bell and drag. If it's a 3 shoe clutch and only one engages, it may not be enough to make the car move...but it will get it hot! You will need to take the engine out, check the clutch assembly over, then refit it once it's spinning freely and all in good order. It's also possible for the flat of the bell to be rubbing on the shoes. Sometimes shims need to go in to prevent this and to space the bell away from the shoes. If you had to put washers on the outside...that's a likely issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shudson Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Assuming everything is new and you have built from scratch, are you sure you have the clutch shoes the right way round? i.e trailing as the engine rotates anti-clockwise. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchaggis Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Thanks for your replies , Just removed engine and found the flywheel had come loose , so hopefully when the piston locker gets delivered I'll remove the flywheel and replace thread lock it , as far as I know the clutch shoes fitted OK however the springs I'm not Sure of as the long bit of spring rubs on inside of bell housing is this right ? Its something I have never had to do or change Till now , Before removing engine tho I moved it away from spur gear and run a full tank through the engine 1st tank run in And noticed that the bellhousing was still spinning, Is there a video or pics of clutch springs being fitted in the propper way ? Thank you all great full and appreciate your help Cheers mchaggis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboyneil Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 You don't use just a piston locker to fit the flywheel you want one of these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18024__Flywheel_Wrench_w_17mm_Hex.html or something similar off eBay 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1981robbo Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 (edited) You don't use just a piston locker to fit the flywheel you want one of these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18024__Flywheel_Wrench_w_17mm_Hex.html or something similar off eBayYes you can? A lock tool and your wheel nut wrench is all you need. To say 'you don't just use' is quite inaccurate Edited September 3, 2013 by 1981robbo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboyneil Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Trying to teach your gran to suck eggs ay robbo the piston tool on its own with the force of tightening the flywheel nut can cause damage that's where the flywheel wrench comes in it holds it all in place so you don't put too much pressure on the piston in fact with the wrench you don't even need the piston stopper at all 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchaggis Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Thanks guys I don't think the flywheel tool would work as flywheel fitted is loose and spins , was all Fitted as per diagram now can't undo nut in front I'll try post pic Cheers mchaggis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchaggis Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Here's pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shudson Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 If flywheel is loose but you can't loosen nut, that suggests it is at end of thread. When you re-assemble you will need a spacer behind flywheel/collet or it will happen again.To loosen nut, you could try squeezing flywheel back against crankcase while tapping wrench (gently) anti clockwise with a small hammer or similar. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikardo Dust Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 sounds like you've not fitted the springs properly bud, the long part goes over the top of the shoe and the short bit, you have to push it back past the nut so it holds the shoe tight against the shaft, if you get me? this video shows it pretty good 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchaggis Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Managed to take off flywheel mullgrips n 10mm ring spanner , mmm I thinks the nut that holds on the flywheel Was'nt tightened up enough and hard to remove as had thread lock blue on , anyway took off flywheel replaced and tightened Up refitted clutch pic below refit few days as on night shift Thank to all Mchaggis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shudson Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 If you haven't got one, the tool in the video makes life a lot easier - they are only a few pounds now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboyneil Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 I've never had to use threadlock on a flywheel nut think that might have given you a false sense of it being tight I use the end of a matchstick to apply threadlock that's all it ever needs one little bit no more and the clutch tool comes in handy as shudson said I'm on my fifth one now and got another three waiting they last for ages putting clutches together but after a while the bit that pulls clutch shoes off wares down but if you only have a couple of nitro cars one should last you ages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shudson Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 As Fatboyneil says, you shouldn't need threadlock on the flywheel. Assuming you don't have a backfire in the first couple of starts, it will tend to keep tightening itself and coming loose will never be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1981robbo Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 (edited) Trying to teach your gran to suck eggs ay robbo the piston tool on its own with the force of tightening the flywheel nut can cause damage that's where the flywheel wrench comes in it holds it all in place so you don't put too much pressure on the piston in fact with the wrench you don't even need the piston stopper at all Edited September 4, 2013 by 1981robbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1981robbo Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 Trying to teach your gran to suck eggs ay robbo the piston tool on its own with the force of tightening the flywheel nut can cause damage that's where the flywheel wrench comes in it holds it all in place so you don't put too much pressure on the piston in fact with the wrench you don't even need the piston stopper at all No? Just stating a fact. You missed out the word 'need' in your post. You don't NEED to use that tool. You implied that his method was completely wrong, which it is NOT. And seriously that terminology sounds REALLY homosexual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchaggis Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 Update Bought a clutch tool , fitted clutch no probe with tool works a treat Cheeers all for ya advice Mchaggis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikardo Dust Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 Update Bought a clutch tool , fitted clutch no probe with tool works a treat Cheeers all for ya advice Mchaggis glad you got it sorted pal, those clutch tools are awesome are they not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthoop Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 No? Just stating a fact. You missed out the word 'need' in your post. You don't NEED to use that tool. You implied that his method was completely wrong, which it is NOT. And seriously that terminology sounds REALLY homosexual. Preventing the crank from turning using the piston is generally a bad idea if you are using any kind of force (as in tightening the flywheel)....many other options to lock the crank...safest will always be a lolly pop stick in the crank window for me... If you are really homophobic I could say many things.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordan_bench10 Posted September 6, 2013 Share Posted September 6, 2013 me i never use any special tools an 8mm rachet does me and a bit of talcum powder on the fingers to grip flywheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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