duopkik Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 Right then, time to cram it in! Radio tray done. The kit comes with a long black antenna tube, but I prefer my own pink stumpy one. Screwing the radio tray in. Connected up. On to the wing. Notice the 2 wickerbills (different sizes). I have used the larger one just because it's the biggest. Wickerbill held on by 4 nuts and bolts. Fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 looks cool, when u going to take it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duopkik Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 looks cool, when u going to take it out? Sunday is race day and the car is super stiff. Will handle like a brick on wheels for the first 30-40 minutes use. Currently spraying the shell which will also need stickering up and also need to run the engine in but it will all be ready for race day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hebby Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Do you get wheels and tyres with t he kit or just wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Badkad Posted April 18, 2013 Popular Post Share Posted April 18, 2013 Y U NO CLEAN SERVO AND BATTERY?!?!?!?!? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fasi Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 enjoying the thread all the way...cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duopkik Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the comments so far. In answer to your recent questions. 2 sets of wheels, no tyres. My battery and servos are clean New quick change engine mount replacing the standard engine mounts. Fitted New engine in and meshing up! Meshed up so tightening up. I can finally install the fuel tank. In with the pipe stay mount. Engine, pipe and fuel line fitted. Gas cooler. Fancied a change from orange so got a bright blue one. Was going to get the red one but it just wasn't quite pink enough for my liking. Make a small incision for the zip tie to go through. Edited April 18, 2013 by duopkik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabbagey Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Build looks fantastic mate well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A Return Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 (edited) this is still not helping my uncomfortable levels of want. Must get on with funding activities I cant really fault it but it seems odd to have only 2 top adjustmunts for the front shocks. Other than that, cracking! Edited April 19, 2013 by A Return Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duopkik Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 Zip tie through. Exhaust line connected. Throttle linkage on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duopkik Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 Finally finished the build. Just need to run the engine in, finish the shell and sort the on/off switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creativechris Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 so.. whats the pipe your running for your bullitt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duopkik Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 so.. whats the pipe your running for your bullitt? Bullitt 2060 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duopkik Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 A few stickers on the radio tray. Wing and shell stickered up. I am no artist, so I used some old spray cans I had which were all half full but I'm happy with the result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creativechris Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurcyP Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 that looks really good dude, well done What are those savox servos like, i hate noisy servos that are continually trying to find centre and buzz all the time (thats why i love my alturn pair, quiet as a mouse) i heard savox are seriously noisy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duopkik Posted April 19, 2013 Author Share Posted April 19, 2013 that looks really good dude, well done What are those savox servos like, i hate noisy servos that are continually trying to find centre and buzz all the time (thats why i love my alturn pair, quiet as a mouse) i heard savox are seriously noisy. Yep, Savox are noisy, noisy but reliable. Very strong pulling power to. Nearly 2 years old now and as you can tell they have seen a lot of abuse.Just noticed the wheel nuts which are included in the kit are not all the same colour. 2 are a gun metal look and the other 2 are a anodized type colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creativechris Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 (edited) hmm, i wonder why, is there any difference in the thread type i wonder? also, iv just noticed a difference in the new shell shape compared to the last, very angular now compared to the old more round shape. (front window ect) Edited April 20, 2013 by creativechris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Drifta Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Jesus how'd i miss this build AWESOME build!! Looking at the 3 is seriously tempting me for another kit build So hows the run in off the motor going? its still a very serious contendor for my EU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creativechris Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 the new 3 does handle slightly better, only noticeable if you are a semi pro racer, if your are an rookie like me whos just getting the hang of the car and just started doing competitive race times you will not notice the difference. so if you are just getting into your racing, then the EU is the better car for you as you save a few quid which you can spend on tools and other bits and pieces you may need and, yet still be competitive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badkad Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Its a better car all round. I like the look of it compared to the previous generations. Looks more "premium". But as for drivings concern, the professionals like Adam Drake for example, he will be screaming the benefits of the 3.0, whereas club level wouldn't really notice that much of a difference. It has been doing very well around the world though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creativechris Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 yeah exactly my point. only a skilled driver is going to notice the difference other than the change in parts. thats why im sojesting to him is he buys the Eu as he may not be skilled enough to fully untalize the 3.0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattovplymouth Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Good build thread. I found the worse bit on my 3.0 was the ruddy brake linkages!! I got it wrong a few times. Doesn't help the instructions are cack though. I see you've already specced it up. Are the hop up parts good prices? as I can't seem to find any prices as of yet. Not to bothered about to much alloy. Plastics lighter and cheaper to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacksprogis Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Lovely bud I need one of these ... With a Nice BL motor in ofc . Really perfect looking tho Jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duopkik Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Just noticed a few people have replied to my thread so may as well have a little write up and the story so far. First time out with the new buggy I TQd and won at my local track. 2nd race was the Northern Regionals where I came 6th. Have done several other race meets now and I am very impressed. So far finished all races. Best result would be the Durka Durka Cancer Research race a few weeks ago which I won Yay!! My standard setup for droop on my EU was 94mm front and 106mm rear. On my 3.0 my standard droop setup is 102mm front and 112mm rear. A lot more stable at high speeds. Depending on which track I am at will depend whether I use a wickerbill or not. Also because of the 15 degree caster compared to the 12 degrees on the EU, the buggy is smoother entering turns and added with the extra travel, soaks up the rough bumps whilst cornering with more ease. Also the Bullitt B219 is very responsive and very fast (obviously) which is why this is my 2nd Bullitt engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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