Noj Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 MS will look after you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Hi all, Not posted for a while - had a puppy to contend with and unfortunately that has had to come before my cars... Two things - 1) My son hasn't run his LB for a while but took it out at the weekend and in his words "moved by itself". O further inspection and messing with the servo trims, I can concur that it indeed moves by itself - additionally, he seems to have lost the ability to reverse, by doing... nothing! Any ideas? 2) Any ideas please which kit bad has the wheel nuts in? I believe bag D but cannot confirm without instruction manual... I'd like about 10 - It seems they go rusty when not used for a while and i've somehow lost one also! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 How do the front wheels break "in a way that can be repaired"? Each time I break my front wheel, its a write off! The hub detaches itself from the rest of the wheel?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndySeven Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Fancy a bit of retro RCing so I picked up the black chrome Pumpkin and the low rider Pumpkin. I want the chrome body for the low rider and have picked up a Parma Pumkin body to bash on the original. I might try to find a 2nd styrene body and rear axle to build another 6 wheeler, they can be fun. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Stopped doing wheelies again so figured I'd slow mo record what was happening! Definitely the tyres need gluing!http://youtu.be/U_lK9tfOggM So super glue? All the way round? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Just on lipo's; I don't know about the one above but this one fits the Lunchbox perfectly and has a little more capacity. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-4000mahr-7.4v-30-60c-2s-lipo/rc-car-products/388538 Cheers Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Tyre glue all round, worth considering fitting these before you do:http://www.modelsport.co.uk/schumacher-1-10th-truck-2.2-foam-tyre-insert-soft-/rc-car-products/16890 Wheel nuts: plenty of cheap, aftermarket wheel nuts out there, unless you need any of the other components from the parts bag? Re the strange movement, old style speed controller or ESC? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Thanks - already ordered a parts bag. for some reason didn't think about the aftermarket cheaper stuff! Not sure if you refer to my question "strange movement" - if so, its a stock ESC that came with the kit - new (or at least was) a Tamiya sport motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Thanks Noj I'll grab a set then glue. Think I'm just going to grab shocks and motor whilst I'm at it. That leaves 5th shock mod and chassis brace. Really noticed the weakness of the front shocks today, especially in reverse. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legend Racer Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 This started life as a Pumpkin but I had a spare body lying around so just wondered how well it would fit There's a few more bits I need to do to it over time, like the 5th shock and a driver figure 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Hi Guy's So started the mods this evening, so far replaced the body mounts with aluminium ones, changed the front shocks to oil filled, changed the front wheel bearings to metal bearings and fitted the ESC. On fitting the ESC i did notice that is no wire to go to the batt. plug of the receiver (stock acoms receiver), only a plug that goes into CH.2 Got this ESC http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-1060-brushed-esc/rc-car-products/382831 Can anyone help? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legend Racer Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 ESC's don't have a battery plug, just plug it in to channel two and away you go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 ESC's don't have a battery plug, just plug it in to channel two and away you go Ah that would explain that then. I only asked because the stock tamiya ESC had a wire going to the battery socket of the receiver. If thats the case then i'll be fitting the new motor tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danb1974 Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 The stock tamiya esc is a reliq from a another epoch when the bec was in the rx - the esc has no bec inside - (and the servo came with the radio kit). Tamiya did not get the "we're in 2015" memo, along with the bearings, oil shocks and lipo memos. Mixing such an esc with a modern radio may result in servo and/or rx smoking. With modern gear, the batt wire has to go via an external bec to the rx, not directly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 The stock tamiya esc is a reliq from a another epoch when the bec was in the rx - the esc has no bec inside - (and the servo came with the radio kit). Tamiya did not get the "we're in 2015" memo, along with the bearings, oil shocks and lipo memos. Mixing such an esc with a modern radio may result in servo and/or rx smoking. With modern gear, the batt wire has to go via an external bec to the rx, not directly. Err...what? Sorry dont understand all the 'epoch, bec' etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danb1974 Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 "bec" originally comes from "battery eliminator circuit" (because lacking it, you would use a separate small battery for the rx and servo). You should find plenty of documentation about rc terminology on the net. Since you do not want that small battery, somewhere there has to be a voltage regulator that powers rx and servo with 5V or 6V (supposing we use normal servo, not high voltage servo) Nowadays that thing (still called a bec) lives inside the esc (any other esc but those tamiya models) and there is only one cable from esc to rx that goes to throttle channel In the old days the bec lived in the rx (that's why there is a "batt" plug onto the rx - just that nowadays it's improper named) and the esc had two cables, one for throttle signal and one with battery voltage. Actually it gets really funny as the regulated voltage would go back from rx to the esc, to power it's control circuitry. So you could actually not power up such an esc without an rx. Tamiya somehow assumes you know all that and use an external bec to adapt to a modern rx or you go to the museum and pick up a really old radio kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 "bec" originally comes from "battery eliminator circuit" (because lacking it, you would use a separate small battery for the rx and servo). You should find plenty of documentation about rc terminology on the net. Since you do not want that small battery, somewhere there has to be a voltage regulator that powers rx and servo with 5V or 6V (supposing we use normal servo, not high voltage servo) Nowadays that thing (still called a bec) lives inside the esc (any other esc but those tamiya models) and there is only one cable from esc to rx that goes to throttle channel In the old days the bec lived in the rx (that's why there is a "batt" plug onto the rx - just that nowadays it's improper named) and the esc had two cables, one for throttle signal and one with battery voltage. Actually it gets really funny as the regulated voltage would go back from rx to the esc, to power it's control circuitry. So you could actually not power up such an esc without an rx. Tamiya somehow assumes you know all that and use an external bec to adapt to a modern rx or you go to the museum and pick up a really old radio kit. Ah i see. Thanks for the explanation. You'll have to bare with me as im new to this game! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pez44 Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 any ideas on this issue I'm getting? Got a brushless motor and a Tamiya TBLE-02 S, I've set it up correctly so it knows its a brushless motor, the sensor cable is correctly fitted, the steering works fine but when I press the throttle it flashes orange, same goes when I try reverse? Cant seem to work out the issue, the troubleshooting doesn't seem to explain it? Have paired the RX and TX correctly as well? any ideas please? thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 Hi Guy's So all mods done, ESC and motor fitted. just a few question's Should the motor be quicker in reverse? - if I lift it off the ground and do full throttle and reverse the car actually starts to shake from the speed of the wheels in reverse but slower in forward, this can be seen on the ground as well. its not doing wheelies any more but I can flip it the other way as reverse has more torque and speed. I know im still running the stock battery but I'm slightly disappointed in the speed of the lunchbox as it still doesn't seem that faster than the stock motor going forward I'm also getting poor range, about 20ft Any idea's? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 ESCs are often slower in reverse. Swap the motor leads round and reverse the channel. Not sure about the range issue, what tx/rx are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 ESCs are often slower in reverse. Swap the motor leads round and reverse the channel. Not sure about the range issue, what tx/rx are you using? Thanks oodboo i'll give that a go. I'm using the stock cystals that came with the remote (acoms techniplus) tx/rx band 4 yellow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 It's a long time since I used 27mhz stuff, have you got the ariel coming up through the tube out the shell? This isn't as important when using 2.4ghz stuff but essential with the older 27mhz gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danb1974 Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 Consider switching to 2.4ghz radio gear. No more long antenna, interference, poor range and crystals... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pez44 Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Any one Iin the Bristol area I could meet up and see why my esc and motor isn't working? It's the TBLE-02S esc and the brushless motor is a speed passion 13.5t brushless, the esc is set up for brushless with sensor cable, just doesn't seem to have any power? Is there any shop or meet I could go to for help? This LB was a present for my nephew so really need to get it working... Be really grateful if anyone can help me. Cheers Pez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 The ESC is much maligned...I have a feeling that they only run Tamiya BL motors, but don't quote me. Personally, I'd sack off the Tamiya ESC and look for something else. I'd also forget running a sensored set up....the cable is very prone to damage and a LB just doesn't need it. For us, a brushed set up of a quicrun 1060 ESC and 15t HPI firebolt can is plenty on a 2s lipo...bang in a 6400mah zippy hardcase and the lad will get bored before the pack runs out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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