oodboo Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Oops, I forgot bearings. There's a guy on here who sells bearing sets (can't remember his name) or there's rcbearings.co.uk. I'd say bearings before anything else really, the plastic bushes that come as standard aren't much use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Ok just had a first proper runout with the LB with my son and he's already managed to break it! Where can I get spares and are there better quality ones? Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 (edited) So much info to digest... Ok so from reading bits on here and from oodboo's info. I am looking to buy the following: New bearingshttp://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=Lunchbox+&product_id=1304 Cw01 short shockshttp://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-cva-short-shock-unit/rc-car-products/2136 Will this replace my broken bit in the picture? Spring mountshttp://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-spring-mount-lunch-box-2-/rc-car-products/31566 Motor combohttp://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/400531291998?rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Ftype%3D4%26campId%3D5337439864%26toolId%3D10001%26customId%3Dic3tinc1jc00x80000003%26mpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252F1-10-Scale-Buggy-ESC-RC-Electric-7-2v-15T-540-540-15-Turn-Motor-Combo-%252F400531291998%253Fpt%253DLH_DefaultDomain_3%2526hash%253Ditem5d41867f5e%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D867142067031&_mwBanner=1 With regards to the 5th shock mod, should I also replace the rear shocks also? Was looking at this pagehttp://www.fusionhobbies.com/products/dampers-and-springs While I was having a play I did notice that reverse was a bit hit and miss. Apologies for all the questions but I've never done anything like this before so i want to make sure i'm getting the right things before i part with any hard earned cash! Any help is much appreciated Thanks Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Edited July 15, 2015 by Mansnake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 BUMP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 (edited) BUMP Yes - this all looks pretty much correct. Bearings are good. Shocks are correct, but this is the packet with just 2 shocks. They also do a complete set of 4 specifically for the lunchbox, but not much stock in the UK. http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/84365-short-shock-unit-yellow-style-p-7653.html This is the one I'm talking about - very cheap to import, but will take a few weeks to arrive. I have not done the 5 shock mod, so not going to comment on what is best. Consider getting the full parts bag though for the spring mounts, as you get lots of spare parts. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-LUNCHBOX-SHAFT-BAG-9400296-PUMPKIN-BS1-to-BS11-/231399318402?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35e0796382 the breakage in the picture.... nothing actually looks broken - maybe the servo saver is broken or you have lost a screw? Not sure, but changing the shocks is not going to fix this Hope that helps. Best 'upgrade' I did for my lunchbox was this lipo, which works well with the tamiya ESC and fits in the battery cage: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221180788891?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT plus this monitor: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120988559049?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and a balance cable long enough to put the alarm near the servo so you can see the voltage through the windscreen: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300799110752?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Obviously you need a lipo charger for this:) Edited July 16, 2015 by JED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Yes - this all looks pretty much correct. Bearings are good. Shocks are correct, but this is the packet with just 2 shocks. They also do a complete set of 4 specifically for the lunchbox, but not much stock in the UK. http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/84365-short-shock-unit-yellow-style-p-7653.html This is the one I'm talking about - very cheap to import, but will take a few weeks to arrive. I have not done the 5 shock mod, so not going to comment on what is best. Consider getting the full parts bag though for the spring mounts, as you get lots of spare parts. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-LUNCHBOX-SHAFT-BAG-9400296-PUMPKIN-BS1-to-BS11-/231399318402?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35e0796382 the breakage in the picture.... nothing actually looks broken - maybe the servo saver is broken or you have lost a screw? Not sure, but changing the shocks is not going to fix this Hope that helps. Best 'upgrade' I did for my lunchbox was this lipo, which works well with the tamiya ESC and fits in the battery cage: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221180788891?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT plus this monitor: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120988559049?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and a balance cable long enough to put the alarm near the servo so you can see the voltage through the windscreen: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300799110752?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Obviously you need a lipo charger for this:) Thanks for the reply JED. Got some good mulling over to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 (edited) Oh - and the really cool thing about the battery I mentioned is as long as you have another charging cable, you don;t need to remove the shell to get the battery out. I haven't taken my body shell off for months! Edited July 16, 2015 by JED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 (edited) Also - for anyone who is interested, I fitted the new Wild Willy driver. http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/54531-driver-figure-torso-p-7656.html You have to have oil shocks to do this rathr than the stock ones, and you need a long bolt to go through the U bracket, then through his arm. Puts him in the perfect spot - I'll up a photo later Edit: here are the photos! https://www.flickr.com/gp/36223587@N00/20SYW6 Edited July 16, 2015 by JED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Oh - and the really cool thing about the battery I mentioned is as long as you have another charging cable, you don;t need to remove the shell to get the battery out. I haven't taken my body shell off for months! Foolish practice. Never charge or store a lipo in your RC. There are plenty of images and vids to show what happens when a lipo cooks off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 (edited) Foolish practice. Never charge or store a lipo in your RC. There are plenty of images and vids to show what happens when a lipo cooks off. I think you missed the point - because there is a deans connector built into this battery, you can unhook it at the battery end and have it in a lipo safe bag in seconds, and never have to take the shell off If you have another cable, you can charge it without needing to get to the one which is attached to the esc inside the shell. Super groovy! Edited July 16, 2015 by JED 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Another important mod is the wheelie-bar mod, to spread the strain evenly across multiple points when the wheelie-bar hits the ground. Otherwise, the gearbox casing splits open easily on impact. Like so: Additionally, I'd go for a homemade strut brace, across the top of the chassis, between the two front shock top mounts. Too much flex there as standard. I used a piece of alluminium, but tie-rods are the default choice: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mansnake Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Another important mod is the wheelie-bar mod, to spread the strain evenly across multiple points when the wheelie-bar hits the ground. Otherwise, the gearbox casing splits open easily on impact. Like so: Additionally, I'd go for a homemade strut brace, across the top of the chassis, between the two front shock top mounts. Too much flex there as standard. I used a piece of alluminium, but tie-rods are the default choice: Yea i was thinking about putting strut across the front but just got to figure out were to get the aluminium from. Also do you need to use longer screws through the shocks to attach it? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 (edited) Hey all, haven't been on here in ages. I've started taking my Lunchbox out again, it's stock apart from a full set of race bearings and a different speed controller. So today at the park watching it I've noted a lot of bouncing and am thinking about tyre inserts. Any suggestions? Also the turning circle is far from tight as you would expect, any way to tighten the turning circle? Also want to make to fast, maybe more torque too. Motor? Lipo? I have 30c lipos from my airsoft days and a balancing charger. What lipo types are suited for the motor. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Edited July 19, 2015 by nohero Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Mansnake, no you don't need longer screws. I used the parts provided to fit oil-filled shocks, instead of the stock friction shocks. There is enough thread on show to make it work, as long as you use relatively small locknuts. Nohero, I don't know about tyre inserts, but you will never ever fully eliminate the bounce from the lunchbox. It's all about the... ahem... "unique" design of the gearbox and rear suspension. Basically, the gearbox leans backwards on acceleration, due to the centrigugal force of the motor, which causes the rear shocks to violently "lock" open, which makes the rear end bounce. Replacing the standard friction shocks with proper oil-filled ones (75mm size) and doing the 5th shock mod helps a good deal, though. Turning circle is pretty much as is, try sliding the back round by applying some brake as you turn quickly, that's what I do. As for speed, the basic speed controller can handle the Tamiya GT tuned motor, which is a reasonable upgrade for pretty cheap. 2s lipo would work, but that depends if your ESC has a lipo low-voltage cut-off (lipo mode, basically), otherwise you'll need to buy a buzzer to warn you when the voltage drops. Try the motor first with your ni-mh battery and see how you like it. I run mine with an old P2K Pro 27t racing stock motor from my touring car days and with a ni-mh battery it goes very well, for what it is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 (edited) These are the tyre inserts that fit the lunchbox: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=31994 I've also got these in my wishlist as they were also recommended as fitting by someone, but I've never personally tried them: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=16890 Edited July 20, 2015 by JED 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the replies, I'll likely stick with the regular batteries for now. For reference incase it helps with LIPO as an option this is my speed controller http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/car-speed-controls/Viper-Autosport-20.htm The controller seems to have a second delay for reverse. Is lipo a big upgrade in usage performance? I know the power doesnt drop off, but is it worth it for the "hassle" involved. I know its not a huge deal with the balancing chargers but I do prefer to just plug in my batteries charge and be more relaxed about them. Any recommendation for shocks to order for front, rear and 5th mod? The thin wire bits inside the rear that stop the back half moving around have broken. Do they actually do anything, I see no difference. Guess the rear shock mod replaces that? Is there a link to instructions for this mod? Will try the sport motor too is that OK with the speed controller I have? Dont get me wrong, I love everything about it and had a lot of fun with my son yesterday Just looking to tweak. Here's a video of mine out with my boy yesterday https://youtu.be/_lpBJD-NMK4 Thanks again for any help. Edited July 20, 2015 by nohero Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 The inserts are worth getting, they've improved the handling of mine a lot. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Nohero, that esc has no lipo mode, but you can run it with a low-volt buzzer on a lipo battery, no problem. However, I used that very esc in my Lunch Box last year and it frustrated the crap out of me!!! It kept "auto calibrating" randomly, during use, whenever the voltage dropped to less than full, causing the truck to stop dead and not respond for several seconds. However, if you find it's working OK, that's fine. You may find that a more powerful motor causes this problem to rear its ugly head, though. You will notice an increase in top-end and a bit more urgency in the power-delivery when using a lipo. It's not huge, but it's definitely there. Yes, lipos are less hassle to charge, as they don't need cycled etc. But more care is needed to follow the rules, as they are potentially more dangerous. Read up on them fully, before using. As for shocks, I used Ansmann 75mm oil-filled shocks, all round, but any 75mm shocks will work just fine. Thos little wire springs are pretty hopeless. I use them as well as the 5th shock, but yes, the 5th shock takes over their role, and does a better job of it. The Sport Tuned motor would work, yup. I think the GT tuned is a better motor, from what I've read. It's not as low wind (so should technically, be slightly slower), but, as far as I'm aware, it's a better design, so works just as well. It has the open end-bell, which allows for brush maintenance etc. Which the Sport tuned doesn't. Either will perfectly suit the Lunch Box, though, so get whatever you can get your hands on for cheapest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Great thanks for the info. Is the motor speed what enables easier wheeling? Mine is quite hard to get wheeled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Motor torque gives you wheelies. Any motor will produce more torque than the included silver can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Great thanks for the info. Is the motor speed what enables easier wheeling? Mine is quite hard to get wheeled Not really as it wheelies stock on demand when first built. I would say most important factor is having the tyres glued. After a while the wheelies will stop as the tyres stretch and start to spin on the hubs. 95% chance this is why Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nohero Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Brilliant thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pez44 Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 (edited) Hi all, Just started to build LB, got brushless motor, ball raced, new shocks, but one thing I cant work out is this part in the gear diff bag and where it goes into production? http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/34171-/ any help be very much appreciated as don't want to screw gear box together until I know about where this goes. thanks, Ben Edited July 24, 2015 by Pez44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I am pretty sure that bit is not used as I have a couple in my spares box. The part BC7 - spacer is the one that most people miss which building this part - watch out for it! Hi all, Just started to build LB, got brushless motor, ball raced, new shocks, but one thing I cant work out is this part in the gear diff bag and where it goes into production? any help be very much appreciated as don't want to screw gear box together until I know about where this goes. thanks, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pez44 Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Thanks Jed, so I wonder why its in the bag what is it meant for, to replace what?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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