R46 Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 on road or off road tyres on rim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R46 Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 (edited) price gone up where 19.99 + post saturday evening http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130949072379?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/tires-set-F-R-4pcs-Shock-tamiya-Lunch-Box-Midnight-Pumpkin-Mitsubishi-Mont-/131057396321?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&var=&hash=item642bdecf1b Edited January 7, 2014 by R46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 off-road preferably "Tire" C looks good - Will see if it comes down in price again Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 (edited) Just browsing brushless combos for some point in the future - There seems to be a lot more connectors/leads than with stock motor and esc. Why is this, what are they all for? Also, I have heard people mention that upgraded servos have drained their power - is this normal and what should I look out for to prevent this or do I look for more powerful batteries on this basis? Lastly, with all of the upgrades (that will happen eventually!!) is it ever necessary to upgrade receiver/transmitter etc? I'm currently running 2.4ghz 2 channel system Thanks, Paul Edited January 8, 2014 by Monster LB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adaminnotts Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Just browsing brushless combos for some point in the future - There seems to be a lot more connectors/leads than with stock motor and esc. Why is this, what are they all for? Also, I have heard people mention that upgraded servos have drained their power - is this normal and what should I look out for to prevent this or do I look for more powerful batteries on this basis? Lastly, with all of the upgrades (that will happen eventually!!) is it ever necessary to upgrade receiver/transmitter etc? I'm currently running 2.4ghz 2 channel system Thanks, Paul Brushless combo's usually come with deans connectors ready for Lipo Batterys...... you need a good 4500mah+ lipo battery ideally with the combo... combo's such as mine....... speed passion come with the esc cabled up ready to plug into the motor. I haven't had any exprience of power drainage via my servo........... and i run a savox metal geared servo.... heavy duty! obviously the bigger and better quality your battery....... the better your set up, and battery life will be. I have a basic 2.4ghz stick controller, and a 2.4 ghz wheel controller they were both less than Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Good, yes my 2.4Ghz wheel controller with receiver was circa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 These are a perfect fit in the lunchbox:http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31942__Turnigy_4000mAh_2S_30C_hardcase_pack_ROAR_APPROVED_UK_Warehouse_.htmlYou'll have to change to connectors though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221180788891?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 These are perfect fit in the lunchbox and you don't have to change connectors. With this battery you also don't have to take the shell off everytime you want to charge. Very, very handy! Works perfectly with the standard esc set up, but you will also need to fit a low voltage alarm. If you get one of these with a digital readout and fit it near the windscreen, you can look in and see how much battery you have left.... EDIT: You also need a balance lead extention cable in order to never take the shell off, and fit the low voltage meter for that matter. Edited January 9, 2014 by JED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Like it, but not sure I'd want to pay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 What is the "low voltage alarm" for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Lipo batteries shouldn't go below a certain voltage otherwise the chemistry of the battery can become unstable. Most brushless or lipo ready escs will have a cut off to prevent this from happening. If you're using older or brushed escs then you need a way to know when to stop running.I may be a bit off with exactly what happens with the batteries but that's my understanding anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Ok - When I get round to Lipo, it will be at the same time as the new brushless combo which does have auto cut off and failsafe mode - Do these cover this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Yep. Would also be worth having a read through the big lipo thread if you get the chance as lipo batteries can be dangerous if handled or store incorrectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JED Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Yeah - i'm sure there are cheaper batteries about - the main thing with the vapextech one is you can fit it to the standard kit out of the box with no new plugs, soldering iron etc. It will then still work with a brushless upgrade, again with out having to re-solder. I use lipos and nihm. if kids are using it, it's nimh. no need to change anything. If i take it out, I'l chuck the lipo in All on the standard esc with low voltage alarm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 RE... Personalising the shell.... I'd bare in mind that your LB will be on its roof within 2 minutes.... Guaranteed .... I have 2 shells... One for bashing... As seen in the pics... This is just the standard shell...with the kit decals added. And one for display that doesn't get used... A "shelf queen" as they say.. I can recommend a good painter I used in the past... Outlaw graphics on the www. Good prices and high quality finishes.. I thought about the monster design and red bull design.... But I think I might go for a standard lacquered LunchBox yellow with a black n white chequered roof... To keep it originalish... I've seen people detail there window seals and body details such as hinges and door edges with black fine tipped brushes.... But I haven't the patience for that... Another important mod I'm currently looking into just for your info, you might of heard or read about is the crp fx10 front suspension kit. This is a double wishbone front suspension mod... Stops the "bump steer" or "camber" when the front suspension is compressed... This is a critical mod if you're interested in a quicker LB... Far better handling and stability..... People will argue that this kills the characteristics of the LB..... And is a waste of time... But as I have a complete standard shelf queen... I wanted a racing lunchbox too... Adam Did you decide on your paint job? I'm interested in doing something mainly with a shocking bright pink, along with something different on the roof - I love your idea of the black and white chequered effect but was after something a bit more original... As for decals, whilst I know it is going to be bashed/scraped, I just want a good paint job on it. Might look at the people you suggested to do mine but would be more keen to give it a go myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adaminnotts Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 I have a few ideas, but not fully decided yet, thinking about going for a 'rat' look, also... or maybe an 'anti-herbie' 35 van... the new shell is collecting dust at the min, so need to make a decision sooner.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Hmmm, just took the boys LB to the park. All was going well but suddenly just lost power. steering working fine and if you pick the car up and run in fwd/rev the wheels go round slowly and builds up to some decent speed. Put it back on the ground and nothing. Will get it cleaned up and stripped. Does anyone have any ideas in the meantime? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 I have a few ideas, but not fully decided yet, thinking about going for a 'rat' look, also... or maybe an 'anti-herbie' 35 van... the new shell is collecting dust at the min, so need to make a decision sooner.. Just looked on outlaw graphics site, he has some good jobs on there, saw a few other good ones on Google but think they are more suited to buggy's that LB's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Hmmm, just took the boys LB to the park. All was going well but suddenly just lost power. steering working fine and if you pick the car up and run in fwd/rev the wheels go round slowly and builds up to some decent speed. Put it back on the ground and nothing. Will get it cleaned up and stripped. Does anyone have any ideas in the meantime? The battery ran out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 The battery ran out? Hopefully this was a joke! No, the battery had not run out. Instead it turns out the pinion gear had come loose from the motor. I know this was tight when I first out it together, is "locktite"/threadlock" used in this area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oodboo Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Hopefully this was a joke! No, the battery had not run out. Instead it turns out the pinion gear had come loose from the motor. I know this was tight when I first out it together, is "locktite"/threadlock" used in this area? That's what happens when the battery is low, you didn't say the motor was spinning up normally and the battery was ok. With that info as well I'd have suspected the pinion. Never threadlocked mime and it's been ok. Just make sure it's tight enough. Might need to threadlock if it's getting hot or your running a bl motor though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adaminnotts Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Does the motor shaft have a flat edge, if so be sure the grub screw is secured fully on the flat on the shaft. I have threadlocked mine personally.... vibration loosens it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster LB Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 (edited) No probs Oodboo, perhaps my explanation was poor. Yes, motorshaft has a flat which the grub screw was tightened tightly too. It seems it has come undone with vibrations (only explanation I can think of). I have tightened it up now and replaced stock motor as previous. Seems to be running ok now. If we have the same problem again I will apply threadlock I think. This is my Sons LB at present which I am learning with. Still waiting for mine... Been over a week now, still not here. Dpd investigation in progress as I have apparently signed for it! I have already received some of my upgrades... Suspension, foam inserts, motor upgrade no. 1 on order (Tamiya sport tuned) bearings ... Just need a car! Edited January 11, 2014 by Monster LB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300bhp/ton Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 (edited) Managed to get some bashing with the LB today. First up and I'm sure many of you know this already. But run LiPo's. I'm amazed they make the stock silver can motor perform great, which is something I never thought I'd say! Second how the smeg do Tamiya have the nerve to keep selling the LB with the massively flawed body post design!!! It beggers belief that they have been so lazy not to fix this fundermental design flaw. It's truly shocking. Oh yeah I fitted some oil filled shocks, I found a set of Losi ones I wasn't using. The damping seems spot on and it rides so much better than before. They are too long however, 95 and 110mm. Which as you can see has had a major affect on the front wheels. So I've ordered some shorter shocks to swap on. Edited January 11, 2014 by 300bhp/ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
300bhp/ton Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Does the motor shaft have a flat edge, if so be sure the grub screw is secured fully on the flat on the shaft. I have threadlocked mine personally.... vibration loosens it. You shouldn't need to thread lock a grub screw, not unless this is another poor design area by Tamiya. On all of my racing RC's I've never used thread lock on a pinion grub screw. And that's running 9 Triples (brushed) or jumping trucks 12 foot in the air for 25 feet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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