JayAVFC Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Hi all, i know some of you are really into 1/10 touring car racing i am wondering what could i get for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReggieC Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Best place to start for a beginner would probably be a second hand Xray T2/T3 chassis that can be had anywhere from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 What he said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Donalds Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 I disagree with Regan on pretty much everything there For chassis, I'd look at what people at the local club run, so you have set-up advice and spares support. For lipos, ROAR approved has no bearing on anything over here, as ROAR is the American governing body. Also, most clubs will let you run any lipo as long as it's hardcased. If you need a BRCA legal lipo, Intellect 6800mah 70C will be great, if not, a hardcased Turnigy Nanotech will be fine. Depending on what classes the club runs, either a Xerun 10.5t or Xerun 13.5t will be what you want. For a servo, there's only one choice, a Savox SC1251. Tyres, Sorex 28JB's work best on carpet and for a shell, it's down to driver preference, some prefer the LTC-R, others prefer the Mazdaspeed 6. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReggieC Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 I tend to listen more to Garry than Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Donalds Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 (edited) What I'm saying is about the best advice you'd get. Quality of Power HD servos is hit and miss, Sorex 24's just grip roll and like I said in my first reply, ROAR ruling isn't anything to do with UK racing. Also, my advice pretty much agrees with what Garry says, I just went into more detail. At any club, there will be plenty of people running Xerun combos, there will be people running Intellect Lipos and most people will be running the Sorex 28JB's. Matt Edited May 20, 2012 by Matt_N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReggieC Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 I know what you meant mate, i was being silly. <3 you really Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quantra Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Before you start looking at what chassis/tyres/electrics get down to maritime and have a chat with the local racers. Ask them what chassis they use and why. Find out what is popular and what spares support is like. It's much better to go in with a chassis that is commonly used at your local club so the other racers can help get you up to speed and make sure your car is set up sensibly. As for tyres and electrics these may well come down to what classes they run there. They could have a control tyre that you have to use if not find out what the fast guys are using - the right tyre makes all the difference. My suggestion is to go for the slowest class available, this way you can learn to control your car and perfect your lines without having eye watering crashes and when you go faster you will fit in more suitably as you should already be able to drive on the racing line. And if that class happens to be a 'blinky' class you can potentially save money on your ESC. Once you know what the popular chassis are and what classes are available come back and let us know and we can advise on the specifics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flash22 Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 why dont you try there forum ? http://www.maritimeracing.info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ba57ard Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I agree with Quantra, try the slowest class first, even if its for a short period of time. Theres alot less room for error indoors, if you go for the faster classes, it will be harder to set up, harder to drive and you will probably crash alot more meaning you will be spending more time fixing the car than running it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Chris Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 (edited) Hi you wont regret TC As has been said local drivers are the best source of advice. As for an x-ray for your first car!!!!!!!!!!!!! (even 2nd hand) Spares are soooooo dear. TC 6 great platform spares really good or a british schuey Spares for the above are really easy to get hold of. All ready said in above posts 17.5 blinky is a great way to start close racing and cheap. As for 13.5 on 20 sorex no no no Shell mazda speed 6 a really good all round shell Also tyres are Edited May 28, 2012 by Just Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayAVFC Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Hi you wont regret TC As has been said local drivers are the best source of advice. As for an x-ray for your first car!!!!!!!!!!!!! (even 2nd hand) Spares are soooooo dear. TC 6 great platform spares really good or a british schuey Spares for the above are really easy to get hold of. All ready said in above posts 17.5 blinky is a great way to start close racing and cheap. As for 13.5 on 20 sorex no no no Shell mazda speed 6 a really good all round shell Also tyres are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 You can't convert an Mi3 to Mi4CX, waaaaay too many parts to change (bulkheads x4, motor mount, carbon bits etc would be well over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta05 Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 I would look for a second hand t2 or t3 with a good spares package off ebay, and a new turnigy 40c lipo. The xrays are very strong, (rarely break) but having a few spares does make your venture into touring cars less daunting if anything does break on race day. Ive had my turnigy lipo for quite a while now, seems to be more than capable and is a reasonable price. The casing isnt the strongest and can crack, (mine has) but its still working fine. If I had the money to upgrade my ancient trf415msxx (which still gets me into my local clubs A final when Im driving it right) then I would get a t2 or t3 and not feel at all worried about its durability. Ideally, if going for a t2, look for one which has already got a lipo conversion on it to save you the hassle of doing it yourself. The schumacher Mi4 is a nice car too, but I dont like the fact that there is an Mi4, mI4lp and an Mi4cxl, (I get confused as to what all the differences are between them), but they are pretty durable too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 T3's are getting ridiculously good value for money - T3'11 around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samshirley001 Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 I use a ta-06 for touring, as long as you get everything balanced right, its brilliant, but i highly recommend getting the pro version Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ba57ard Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 T3's are getting ridiculously good value for money - T3'11 around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratman Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 that is cheap. I just paid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 My T3 went for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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