Iain .R Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 14 minutes ago, zlab said: I use 30k cst rear and 70k in the front. It works great. I added some shims on the output shaft, so the o-ring is tight in there (didn't even try without it, so i can't tell if it leaks without this). I am also using automotive gasket maker in between the housing and spur gear. Never had any leak problems... Ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 15 minutes ago, zlab said: I use 30k cst rear and 70k in the front. It works great. I added some shims on the output shaft, so the o-ring is tight in there (didn't even try without it, so i can't tell if it leaks without this). I am also using automotive gasket maker in between the housing and spur gear. Never had any leak problems... I think the gasket maker (Hylomar) would be needed for sure. I just use grease and I am happy with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 17 hours ago, Carlos1988 said: Also if diff oil is the way to go with these as I see many people just using greese Just rebuilt my front diff and stripped the back one. Put a generous helping of grease in each. the wheels spin much more freely now, and sounds smooth. I imagine oil would be better still, but hadn’t considered it as I didn’t think the diff box was sealed enough - I see with a few tweaks this is possible though. Maybe next time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 @Jens hi mate, I just took delivery of another set of the wheels you recommended. On mine (already installed) I had no problems. I have replaced the 12mm hex nut and steering arms to alloy on this car though. on my sons, he still has the stock parts, and on fitting the wheels I’m finding that if I tighten the wheel but sufficiently there is friction between the Wheel and the steering arm. my immediate thought is to insert a spacer/washer between the wheel and hex, but wondered if you have a better suggestion, or if you’d even had the same problem? has anyone else had this issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redback Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 Take a file to the steering arm, should only need 1-2mm off the leading edge, not going to loose any strength doing this, needed to do it to run axial wheels 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 5 hours ago, Ant.p said: @Jens hi mate, I just took delivery of another set of the wheels you recommended. On mine (already installed) I had no problems. I have replaced the 12mm hex nut and steering arms to alloy on this car though. on my sons, he still has the stock parts, and on fitting the wheels I’m finding that if I tighten the wheel but sufficiently there is friction between the Wheel and the steering arm. my immediate thought is to insert a spacer/washer between the wheel and hex, but wondered if you have a better suggestion, or if you’d even had the same problem? has anyone else had this issue? Have you changed the stock black hex to alloy As the alloy is slightly thicker than the black plastic hex so that will move the wheel away . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 1 hour ago, Iain .R said: Have you changed the stock black hex to alloy As the alloy is slightly thicker than the black plastic hex so that will move the wheel away . I have on one of the carnage’s, but the issue was with the plastic ones on the other car. I have now ordered the alloy replacements and temporarily packed the wheel out with a washer in each rim. Worked well, could be a permanent fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 Best bashing to date by a long way today. Was like driving different cars. For anyone that hasn’t changed the shock oil, wheels and steering servo yet - it’s a must! They handle so well now, acceleration is improved no end as the back of the car doesn’t sink into the ground anymore. they land with a satisfying cushioned and well seated thud sound from big jumps. Above all, and this is down to a few other upgrades (and some luck), they both survived the day ready for the next one - unheard of. I think they are finally bashable?! I shan’t mention that ive had to spend over £500 repairing and upgrading the cars to get to this point 😱🤫😭🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 On 27/03/2021 at 09:02, Ant.p said: @Jens hi mate, I just took delivery of another set of the wheels you recommended. On mine (already installed) I had no problems. I have replaced the 12mm hex nut and steering arms to alloy on this car though. on my sons, he still has the stock parts, and on fitting the wheels I’m finding that if I tighten the wheel but sufficiently there is friction between the Wheel and the steering arm. my immediate thought is to insert a spacer/washer between the wheel and hex, but wondered if you have a better suggestion, or if you’d even had the same problem? has anyone else had this issue? Get a slightly larger wheel hex. If you measure the depth of the hex in the wheel, you will get rough idea of the required thickness. I didn't have the problem because I changed to thicker alloy hexes long before that. Should have mentioned that before, right? You will find masses at ebay. In all different widths. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 8 minutes ago, Jens said: Get a slightly larger wheel hex. Should have mentioned that before, right? Already done on realising the problem, as the plastic ones are useless anyway. Just wondered at the time if this would cure the problem or if I was missing anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 Friend of mine bought a Carnage off Facebook and gave it to me to fix it up. Looks like only the steering servo needs to be replaced. Is this one already considered an antique Carnage? Old white wheels No protection of the pinion & spur at all. Old 550 brushed motor That's the best: factory fitted 27MHz receiver. Bottom plate with gaps below the battery and the spur open 27MHz transmitter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 1 hour ago, Ant.p said: Already done on realising the problem, as the plastic ones are useless anyway. Just wondered at the time if this would cure the problem or if I was missing anything else. Picked my brain. Nothing else in regards to the wheels rubbing on the turnbuckle. It will cure your problem. But there is a bit more tuning I did. I fitted 1 or 2 shims between the pin and the bearing to reduce horizontal play of the axle. I don't like any play in the axle or the steering. And applied some amount of white grease (anti-corrosive and water repellent) to the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 2 minutes ago, Jens said: I fitted 1 or 2 shims between the pin and the bearing to reduce horizontal play of the axle. When you say shims, what did you use? A washer? And just to be clear, you mean behind the pin, so ‘shim’, pin, then hex? I have noticed that the wheels (all 4) have a certain amount of play in them when the nut is fully tightened, but assumed this was in the design for some reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 Just now, Ant.p said: When you say shims, what did you use? A washer? And just to be clear, you mean behind the pin, so ‘shim’, pin, then hex? I have noticed that the wheels (all 4) have a certain amount of play in them when the nut is fully tightened, but assumed this was in the design for some reason. I will try to somehow explain without pics available. The shims are very thin. 0.2mm thick. 5mm inner, 9mm outer diameter. They go in first and cover the bearing. They should only touch the inner ring of the bearing to avoid any friction. --> 9mm outer diameter max. Then you put in the pin. Then the wheel hex. The wheel hexes are designed in a way that they only touch the inner ring of the bearing. Same must happen with the shims in between. Important: You must have play, otherwise the wheels won't turn easy. But with trial and error you can reduce the play to a minimum. Each wheel might need different number of shims. If you want, you can choose 0.1mm shims. Did I explain ok? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 26 minutes ago, Jens said: Friend of mine bought a Carnage off Facebook and gave it to me to fix it up. Looks like only the steering servo needs to be replaced. Is this one already considered an antique Carnage? Old white wheels No protection of the pinion & spur at all. Old 550 brushed motor That's the best: factory fitted 27MHz receiver. Bottom plate with gaps below the battery and the spur open 27MHz transmitter. I’ve been looking through Facebook and eBay etc for the next one. I’m just not sure which to get. There are so many options... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 2 minutes ago, Jens said: I will try to somehow explain without pics available. The shims are very thin. 0.2mm thick. 5mm inner, 9mm outer diameter. They go in first and cover the bearing. They should only touch the inner ring of the bearing to avoid any friction. --> 9mm outer diameter max. Then you put in the pin. Then the wheel hex. The wheel hexes are designed in a way that they only touch the inner ring of the bearing. Same must happen with the shims in between. Important: You must have play, otherwise the wheels won't turn easy. But with trial and error you can reduce the play to a minimum. Each wheel might need different number of shims. If you want, you can choose 0.1mm shims. Did I explain ok? Clear as mud. Yeah, that makes sense. Did you make the shims from anything in particular, or did you buy them somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 1 minute ago, Ant.p said: I’ve been looking through Facebook and eBay etc for the next one. I’m just not sure which to get. There are so many options... I wouldn't look for used ones. You never know how they have been run and you might end up spending quite a bit for repairing. And not necessarily because the sellers was hiding the faults. The one from my friend, I am repairing, would already cost more than a new one, if I wouldn't use my available spares for free. £80 for the Carnage off Facebook. £30 for a new servo. £20 for new bearings. He gets the spares for free, otherwise it would have been more expensive than a new Carnage 2.0 for £110. What car do you have in mind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 (edited) 4 minutes ago, Ant.p said: Clear as mud. Yeah, that makes sense. Did you make the shims from anything in particular, or did you buy them somewhere? ebay. Find then everywhere there. edit: Use steel ones! No alloy and surely not plastic. Edited March 28, 2021 by Jens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 4 minutes ago, Jens said: ebay. Find then everywhere there. edit: Use steel ones! No alloy and surely not plastic. Did you use stainless? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Jens said: I wouldn't look for used ones. You never know how they have been run and you might end up spending quite a bit for repairing. And not necessarily because the sellers was hiding the faults. The one from my friend, I am repairing, would already cost more than a new one, if I wouldn't use my available spares for free. £80 for the Carnage off Facebook. £30 for a new servo. £20 for new bearings. He gets the spares for free, otherwise it would have been more expensive than a new Carnage 2.0 for £110. What car do you have in mind? That makes sense, but I have a little cash (want to avoid using the account so the wife doesn’t know 🤫😓) and am being impatient not wanting to wait for the shops to open up again. as for model, I’m not sure, but was thinking in the region of £500 Edited March 28, 2021 by Ant.p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 1 minute ago, Ant.p said: Did you use stainless? yes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 Carnage diffs finally rebuilt: One round in the washing machine and the housing looks like new. And nice stainless steel cups for the CVDs. Rear carbon shock towers. My son always managed to break out the suspension rods. This should solve the problem once and for all. Last but not least. The body shell pins are now tethered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 12 minutes ago, Jens said: Carnage diffs finally rebuilt: One round in the washing machine and the housing looks like new. And nice stainless steel cups for the CVDs. Rear carbon shock towers. My son always managed to break out the suspension rods. This should solve the problem once and for all. Last but not least. The body shell pins are now tethered. Nice, I might try putting the entire carnage in for a 40 degree cycle with some vanish. Obviously with no conditioner. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 1 hour ago, Jens said: Picked my brain. Nothing else in regards to the wheels rubbing on the turnbuckle. It will cure your problem. But there is a bit more tuning I did. I fitted 1 or 2 shims between the pin and the bearing to reduce horizontal play of the axle. I don't like any play in the axle or the steering. And applied some amount of white grease (anti-corrosive and water repellent) to the bearing. Hi m8 if you need any parts. I have the top chasis plate and the two sections that cover the spur gear .an esc 20A . You can have . Not sure what other wee bits I have let me know if you need them . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 1 hour ago, Ant.p said: When you say shims, what did you use? A washer? And just to be clear, you mean behind the pin, so ‘shim’, pin, then hex? I have noticed that the wheels (all 4) have a certain amount of play in them when the nut is fully tightened, but assumed this was in the design for some reason. If it's the same problem I had (sounds like) it was the black plastic hex was too thin so when I put the alloy ones in the problem went wheels was nice and tight no play . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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