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FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread


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11 hours ago, Redback said:

You had fun?
Water got into the rx and its cut out?
Tip for quick water proofing, stick it in a condom, latex glove finger end then over it zip tie at the cables.

Fun in the snow indeed.

The upgrade to brushless is complete. Currently running 2S, plenty enough, especially in these conditions. Do people actually put 3S on these?  My ESC says 60A (surpass rocket)

 

No water damage, that I know of...

But I noticed that the suspension wasn't always coming back up, perhaps the cold temps affect it?

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1 hour ago, Iain .R said:

Mrs does    she said do the other 3 the same            what ???? 

I suggest you get a clear Carnage/Bugsta shell and Tamiya Pink spray....

Then pink wheels won't be so visible.:rofl:

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On 06/02/2021 at 16:44, Redback said:

Thats normal for brushless motors, its called cogging, they dont have high torque density on startup, you have a few choices, smaller wheels, smaller pinion, try increasing the punch and decreasing the motor timing if the esc allows it also as you mentioned move to lipo.
Yes to program card, just bare in mind the programming card will only work with that esc and brand.
Lipos cant go wrong with ACE gen or Voltz
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=442614
https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/317600/

I use the 5500 3s just bare in mind they are taller than a standard pack so you will need longer battery straps possibly.

Ok before jumping into the gens battery I should have asked you how you strap the bigger battery down!! Also do you all use these Lipo charging / storage bags?

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6 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

Do you guy longer posts or are steps something different? How did you attach your one?

I face the same problem.

Got a 3s Lipo and it's a bit too high.

I looked for longer posts and couldn't find any.

Even VRX Racing doesn't have any.

 

So I thought this could be the solution:

IMG-5152.jpg

But haven't tried yet.

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I had hit and miss with straps, i got some i thought would be long enough and they were not, the ftx ones rip were they are sewn together, so now ive switched to these and have had no issues.
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-tapes-straps/rc-car-manufacturers/48/9980/998045

 

The 120 straps are long enough for 3s when you hook them over the top loops.
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-hook-loop-fastener-straps-for-saddle-lipo-battery-packs/rc-car-products/437003

Edited by Redback
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3 minutes ago, Redback said:

I had hit and miss with straps, i got some i thought would be long enough and they were not, the ftx ones rip were they are sewn together, so now ive switched to these and have had no issues.
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-tapes-straps/rc-car-manufacturers/48/9980/998045

 

The 120 straps are long enough for 3s when you hook them over the top loops.
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-hook-loop-fastener-straps-for-saddle-lipo-battery-packs/rc-car-products/437003

I have thought of just using straps as well.

But I haven't got an idea on how to avoid that the straps go below the chassis plate.

And the battery is sitting right on top of the chassis plate.

How did you solve that?

 

 

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haha im an idiot i thought this was for the outlaw ofc it wont work, ok so you can screw them onto the battery tray with  with a screw and washer or your metal might be a good idea just got to be careful of it rubbing though, use foam to keep your batteries happy.
Little L shaped braket might also work, make a hole big enought for the battery plate post and use the pin to hold it in, ill fabricate some to experiment as i have the same issue with the banzia, its the same chassis

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4 minutes ago, Jens said:

I have thought of just using straps as well.

But I haven't got an idea on how to avoid that the straps go below the chassis plate.

And the battery is sitting right on top of the chassis plate.

How did you solve that?

 

 

Yes that's what I don't get. I was looking at this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8-1-10-RC-Climbing-Car-Buggy-Battery-Box-Tray-Holder-for-Vehicle-Model-Toy/153397078284?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=153397078284&targetid=1140163972689&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9046922&campaignid=12125451092&mkgroupid=122515099331&rlsatarget=pla-1140163972689&abcId=9300480&merchantid=113070354&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyJOBBhDCARIsAJG2h5e8KiYerHGWbbbji75EFdeushBOIN6-qIlkIW_CMBGEYHFicv9OYoUaAsB0EALw_wcB&pageci=5e2d2b66-ec19-4715-b076-8cd6c2f59623

 

If I took the posts off and screwed up through the box with thin bolts maybe

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16 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

That seems to be a very interesting idea.

But then the battery needs to fit in the tray and the tray needs to fit as well.

Esp. below the top plate.

But that can be figured out easily.

 

Here is my idea for @Redback to see and understand:

IMG-5153.jpg

 

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1 minute ago, Jens said:

That seems to be a very interesting idea.

But then the battery needs to fit in the tray and the tray needs to fit as well.

Esp. below the top plate.

But that can be figured out easily.

 

Here is my idea for @Redback to see and understand:

IMG-5153.jpg

 

True about the box. If the posts are screwed in maybe longer bolts and a load of washers to raise the posts up higher? I like the box as it gives my nice new expensive lipo even more protection, but it does look like a right squeeze.

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12 minutes ago, DavidBH said:

True about the box. If the posts are screwed in maybe longer bolts and a load of washers to raise the posts up higher? I like the box as it gives my nice new expensive lipo even more protection, but it does look like a right squeeze.

The posts are screwed from below. Easy to remove.

But they have a hex at the bottom to prevent them from turning.

That's why I couldn't get any longer ones.

And washers won't help.

 

Unscrew one post and have a look.

The hex of the post fits in another hex fixed to the plate.

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Ok I may have got a temp fix but also a good one to keep all the cables neat and actually faster to take the battery out than with the posts/clips and harness way. Had to turn the battery on its side though as it would not fit in otherwise so definitely not getting a battery box in there ! A narrower strap and clip may work better.

 

 

888243094_IMG202102112124267470.thumb.jpg.a340ffa803052e5a5e0313c79cee630d.jpg

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10 hours ago, DavidBH said:

Ok I may have got a temp fix but also a good one to keep all the cables neat and actually faster to take the battery out than with the posts/clips and harness way. Had to turn the battery on its side though as it would not fit in otherwise so definitely not getting a battery box in there ! A narrower strap and clip may work better.

 

 

888243094_IMG202102112124267470.thumb.jpg.a340ffa803052e5a5e0313c79cee630d.jpg

Wrapped like a XMas present. lol.

Reminds me of some old stories of East European cars entering Germany in the 90s.

Their engines were tight to the chassis with rope...

 

Seriously, you might have to be a bit careful when bashing.

The strap below the car could tear and then make your battery go for a flight.

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54 minutes ago, Jens said:

Wrapped like a XMas present. lol.

Reminds me of some old stories of East European cars entering Germany in the 90s.

Their engines were tight to the chassis with rope...

 

Seriously, you might have to be a bit careful when bashing.

The strap below the car could tear and then make your battery go for a flight.

Oh hadn't thought about that. I am hoping this car will be as fast as some of those old Eastern block cars though like the old Skoda or trabant!

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1 minute ago, DavidBH said:

Oh hadn't thought about that. I am hoping this car will be as fast as some of those old Eastern block cars though like the old Skoda or trabant!

Those Skodas and Trabbis were actually very reliable cars!

Esp. Trabbis could never rust... lol.

But after the fall of the curtain totally out of fashion.

 

Everyone wanted to have a German "Autobahn" car.

Unable to afford one in a good condition they went to buy them from scrapyards and tight them back together.

 

MOT was an unknown term especially in South Eastern Europe.

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My son took the car out onto the snow, it was fast as anything, blasted it around for about 5 minutes until I came out and said to stop as it looked like it was filling up with snow...... then it stopped !

Now it appears to be dead. I took the top off and it was full of snow inside. Quickly banged it all out, got the hairdryer on it but nothing. When you turn it on I get a beep beep beep from the motor, it twitches a bit but no power. Also the fan on top of the ESC is not turning and before after you turned on the transmitter it made a sort of engaged sound.

 

SO much for a waterproof ESC and motor something has shorted out. Will be contacting the eBay seller I think. Now do I get another GoolRC or should I buy a better known ESC and motor, or do I get another ESC or is there a way of testing which has gone wrong? Was very fast for the 5 minutes it lived with the 3S Lipo.

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Had a look the Rx looks dry as a bone as I recently placed it in a waterproof box.

 

Will dry it all overnight in the hotpress and see. It was amazingly fast though!

 

Tempted to ask for money back on motor and buy something with a better brand name.

 

888243094_IMG202102112124267470.thumb.jpg.a340ffa803052e5a5e0313c79cee630d.jpg

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