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FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread


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10 hours ago, daveyboi73 said:

Hi.
Thanks for the kudos :)

 

I do case hardened steel spurs in 2 pitches, 48DP For stock and light brushless applications and 32DP version for 3S, hard bashing, speed runs etc. The Spurs are £18.50 posted, or come with a matching  pinion for your chassis (stock ratio) for £23.50 posted

Im also have an acetal 32Dp version made for those who want to upgrade for less cost. The acetal gear is the same as the RW racing hardened gear, just chunkier teeth and will cost around the same price once ive tested and confirmed quality etc.

Ill be getting the latest batch back from hardening around the 17th december,  so will be listing on ebay shortly after this date.

 

 

WP_20180916_11_40_54_Pro.jpg

32DP

WP_20180916_11_11_09_Pro.jpg

48DP

Il be buying some of these soon

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I had this choice for my 3 year old and bought two Carnages. Brushed for the girl and a second hand one for me I have upgraded to brushless. If you are mainly off road driving for fun then I’d say the carnage. If you are mainly driving at a track or on road I’d say the Vantage. The bumpers and wheels on the carnage will absorb most bumps so more time driving and less time fixing. So far the only thing we have broken has been body posts from Lansing upside down. That doesn’t include the ESP that set on fire...


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13 hours ago, PH001 said:

@daveyboi73, is there any downside if going for a 32DP over a 48DP?

 I have 48DP pitch done to give more gearing options over stock. The 32DP is for ultimate durabilty. Both have merits and are very strong. I personally run 32DP (32/13 on 3S) on my carnage and 48 DP (48/24 on 3S) on the vantage and (48/27 on 2S) banzai.

 

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2 hours ago, daveyboi73 said:

 I have 48DP pitch done to give more gearing options over stock. The 32DP is for ultimate durabilty. Both have merits and are very strong. I personally run 32DP (32/13 on 3S) on my carnage and 48 DP (48/24 on 3S) on the vantage and (48/27 on 2S) banzai.

 

 

Anyone done a Mod1 gearing mod?

 

So do you make spurs to order then fella?

 

I've just semi munched the lads after a tiny stone lodged in the teeth off the spur...still usable for now.....stock centre spool and s.gear is plastic and although its 32pitch and fairly durable I seeking a metal replacement.

 

 

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On 07/12/2018 at 07:43, dapimp said:

I had this choice for my 3 year old and bought two Carnages. Brushed for the girl and a second hand one for me I have upgraded to brushless. If you are mainly off road driving for fun then I’d say the carnage. If you are mainly driving at a track or on road I’d say the Vantage. The bumpers and wheels on the carnage will absorb most bumps so more time driving and less time fixing. So far the only thing we have broken has been body posts from Lansing upside down. That doesn’t include the ESP that set on fire...


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As its going to be on a mix of surfaces I’ve decided to get the bugsta and can then get the carnage body shell to change the look!  Just need a decent fast charger and some bigger batteries now. Look forward to implementing some mods as things wear out!

 

it might even tempt me to get a brushless buggy for myself!

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On 07/12/2018 at 16:29, Fly In My Soup said:

 

Anyone done a Mod1 gearing mod?

 

So do you make spurs to order then fella?

 

I've just semi munched the lads after a tiny stone lodged in the teeth off the spur...still usable for now.....stock centre spool and s.gear is plastic and although its 32pitch and fairly durable I seeking a metal replacement.

 

 

Hi.

Not thought of mod 1 for ftx tbh, thought 32DP would be sufficient as easy to get pinions etc. What  chassis is your lad running ?

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Slicky boi on roids. Well it looks like this is an on road RC. Stiffen up the suspension and lower the ride height as much as possible for maximum traction. Since it is on road, you might want to go rwd. It doesn't have a center diff, meaning both diffs, front and rear, get 50/50 distribution which will most likely make the RC understeer more. In real cars, they usually give the rear a bias to prevent understeer. Your RC will function as a mid mounted rwd. Meaning when you do oversteer, it's more like a snap oversteer, not controllable as a drift RC.  

 

Only issue is the brakes. Rwd only means rwd only brakes.

 

Also it's up to you, this is just my theoretical knowledge. My RC is out of service because of my impatience ironically.

 

An AWD approach may not be a bad idea as it's an RC. I would recommend using some THICC grease in the diffs. RC diffs are open only which is a pain in the buttcheecks.

 

AWD is great for traction and reducing slipping. Butt it invokes understeer. 

 

But then again, understeer is more managble for safety and ease of use. When you understeer. You just let off the throttle. With oversteer, you gotta pull some sicc move out of thin air.

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10 hours ago, PH001 said:

Oh oh, 3S, a big ass motor and a massive overkill ESC. Get ready for some drivetrain carnage!!!! (Hope you got some decent spur and pinion gears in there)

 

Full on hardened steel...!!

 

I have also got some normal sized offroad wheels and tyres to try..

 

Pardon the pun.. " let the Carnage commence " 

 

:yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:

 

IMG_7346.jpg

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My prediction..... Gears in diff will be buttered by the end of the first run.....

 

High traction surface...... Heavier wheel mass and larger diameter.....and not gearing the crown and pinion down to achieve a similar final drive ratio to stock to compensate for such...... = major bench time....

 

Its not just the acceleration... Ironically that doesn't induce the most wear on a rig like this.... It will be your braking..... From experience... When you increase the rolling mass and speed...you'll find that braking inertia is increased....so when you brake hard from say 35-50mph....the crown and pinion will skip over each other due to the bulkhead flexing.....basically the wheels want to keep turning as the drive line is having the brakes applied to it...causing this unwanted continued forward momentum (larger mass wheels)

 

One way to stop this is to reduce you weight to reduce inertia...or gear down at the crown and pinion....

 

Oh and one last thing......due to this 1/8 system in a 1/10 you'll find the rpm is also way up there! So watch for temps, on motor especially, during harsh heavy handed throttle and braking sessions

 

Hope that gives a few pointers for when you run into these issues!

 

I admire your courage ...... I do like to see builds that push the envelope....and this is tuning out to be one of those!

 

My opinion....Carry on! It will be a rocky road to obtain reliability when you're power to weigh ratio Is way up there!!! But if you manage it (just takes a little perseverance and a logical approach) then you'll have something special there....

 

P.s one last note....I would pre order two full sets of crown and pinion gears for it as of now.....if you do smush the gears after one run....you'll want to have spares!

 

Can't wait to see this run!!!

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@Fly In My Soup Few things I think in my favour... I'm running steel pinion and spur also carbon chassis and top deck, I have no flex..lol

 

I will take your advice in hand though.. I'm going to lower my brake settings to bare minimum, and also try to be as gentle as possible on the gas peddle..?

 

As for gearing, at the moment its running equivalent of stock Vantage ( sort of )... 

 

I agree with you totally and think the diffs will let go first, can't quite decide if I want to put thicker grease in the diffs or not.. 

 

Will try to give it a few runs on 2s first..!! (if it survives) then 3s..

 

If it still works after that I will stick on the bigger wheels and 3s, think my first 3s attempt will be on wet tarmac that should help with drive train stress.. I think..?

 

Hopefully it will be fun over Xmas or a pile of bits..?

 

Oh and yes I've plenty of spare gears and diffs....

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Some physics from a noob. When something is at a constant speed, no net force is being applied. The forces are equalised.  Meaning acceleration ads more force than top speed itself. Try slowly accelerating to prevent driveline destruction. Or buy diffs as if they're fuel. And make the RC AWD to even the load on the diffs. Possibly.

 

I ain't no physics dude thing.

Edited by Jamil237237
More diffs
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Hello I have a brushed vantage and when the battery was fully charged it worked for around 10mins then wouldn’t go under its own load. When I bought it the previous owner said that it stopped working one day, they took it to the model shop and they said it could be motor or esc, I changed the motor but not the esc and it worked fine. Could it be the esc playing up or the battery? Any help is appreciated 

Edited by Nathw26
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20 minutes ago, Nathw26 said:

Hello I have a brushed vantage and when the battery was fully charged it worked for around 10mins then wouldn’t go under its own load. When I bought it the previous owner said that it stopped working one day, they took it to the model shop and they said it could be motor or esc, I changed the motor but not the esc and it worked fine. Could it be the esc playing up or the battery? Any help is appreciated 

An esc should be pretty cheap, I'd maybe get one anyway and try it, if you need a battery I can sell you a 2s 4000mah 35c for ten quid, I have no need for it 

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