FTX Vantage/Carnage owners Thread

[Nickarla]

That zippy at 6000mah 50c is the perfect battery for the Carnage. Perfect fit, largest size, 50c more than you need.

[Addwhite]

11 hours ago, Nickarla said:

That zippy at 6000mah 50c is the perfect battery for the Carnage. Perfect fit, largest size, 50c more than you need.

Yes i agree. Worth spending the little bit extra to get them. Like you say no need to go over 50c, i have had no better results running 60c and 90c.... If anything the motor just gets hotter. Even at full price they are good value.

[Yoshimoto]

Just waiting on cells now... ... ... [emoji849]

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[Addwhite]

5 hours ago, Yoshimoto said:

Just waiting on cells now... ... ...

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Neat job... Looks nice and clean ?

[Yoshimoto]

Thanks...it is...luckily [emoji16]
I think the previous owner broke it first time out and sacked it off.....it's still very fresh.

I've run it up for the first time tonight on tarmac with a tiny 800mAh NiMH pack...it is a runner.
Not sure if there's an issue with the high resistance/low capacity cells or ESC...the motor fails to start up sometimes,it can be overcome with more trigger but it's not right....I'm thinking cells TBH because they are gutless...but i haven't even reset the HPI Flux Reload v2 Speedo yet and i do know that this one isn't the original.
The steering is poor off the bat,it's too slow and deffo needs work on the set up.

Let's see what the proper cells do for it.



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[Addwhite]

10 hours ago, Yoshimoto said:

Thanks...it is...luckily
I think the previous owner broke it first time out and sacked it off.....it's still very fresh.

I've run it up for the first time tonight on tarmac with a tiny 800mAh NiMH pack...it is a runner.
Not sure if there's an issue with the high resistance/low capacity cells or ESC...the motor fails to start up sometimes,it can be overcome with more trigger but it's not right....I'm thinking cells TBH because they are gutless...but i haven't even reset the HPI Flux Reload v2 Speedo yet and i do know that this one isn't the original.
The steering is poor off the bat,it's too slow and deffo needs work on the set up.

Let's see what the proper cells do for it.



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Yeah, should all power up fine with some new cells. Are you running the stock steering servo? Thats one of the first upgrades i did to mine to improve the steering speed and torque. You can pick up a metal gear high speed high torque servo on hobbyking cheap.

[Yoshimoto]

Just spent 20 minutes sorting this issue of motor start fails.....it isn't the cells anyway.

Took it out on grass yesterday with the new batts and straight away the issue was prevailant.Its not so bad but often needs a couple of pumps on the trigger to get moving si I've swapped out motor,ESC,receiver one by one and it's the radio....put my spare Spektrum Rx in and it was fine....the HPI ESC just doesn't like the radio combo for some reason...both radio and ESC are working fine but the two together don't.

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[Jamil237237]

A receiver sends own signals to the ESC. The ESC reads it and gives power. The ESC is failing to read the pwm signals but why? It's not that it doesn't receive any. It just doesn't understand. If only I understood what differs from each ones pwm signals. I don't have a oscilloscope to check that out. Or a power supply that I can just use to just turn on the reciever and nothing else. What if it's the actual controller that's gone poopy? Neutral point might be Brocken. Did you recalibrate? 

 

What do I know though, I short circuited my reciever. Or just wired it incorrectly. Either way I ain't the brightest 

[Jamil237237]

Also drivetrain advice. One of my difs decided, ayyy lemme just internally wear out. Do the diffs only have one set of gears in em? Can more be shoved in? I should shove more in. There's holes for it right? 

 

If I bought a new diff. Wouldn't come with 2 sets of gears (4 little gears on two little axles). Or just one set? Also anything close to an lsd? Thickest oil I can put in my diffs? 

[Nickarla]

1 complete set is just that, 1 complete set including crown, pinion and internal diffs.

[Yoshimoto]

I've seen this before on older 27/40mhz/2.4GHz gear not working with more modern ESC's.....the V2 flux reload in it isn't stock.

I'll bet the RTR gear in it is older generation and requires low tech/cost gear to work properly....who knows,the radio combo is being sold/traded on and I'm running it on my DX5c and a SR210 this afternoon, slipper wanted a tweak too but it's ready for a proper run. [emoji41]

A receiver sends own signals to the ESC. The ESC reads it and gives power. The ESC is failing to read the pwm signals but why? It's not that it doesn't receive any. It just doesn't understand. If only I understood what differs from each ones pwm signals. I don't have a oscilloscope to check that out. Or a power supply that I can just use to just turn on the reciever and nothing else. What if it's the actual controller that's gone poopy? Neutral point might be Brocken. Did you recalibrate? 

 

What do I know though, I short circuited my reciever. Or just wired it incorrectly. Either way I ain't the brightest 

 

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[Yoshimoto]

Sussed it,old skool ESC...it's a v1 not V2,doesn't have LEDs like the later one.....I'm selling it...[emoji848]....probably all of it TBH,I can see why these are popular as first timers tho,daft quick for someone with no experience really.

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[Jamil237237]

I'm trying to calculate my RC speed. I taped my phone to the body of my RC (I kid you not). And failed to actually get a proper measurement. Since I was too chicken to full throttle it for long enough since I don't want my phone flying off . Immaculate measurements say 20 mph.

 

Anyway I need the diff specs. Come pinion and crown wheel? And wheel diameter. Might find it out before you guys give me the numbers but so far I haven't found them. Do I have to open my RC ;-;.

 

Also I find it very funny that the brushed carnage has a body that says brushless. It's just amazing.

[Jamil237237]

Just a friendly reminder. Please thread lock your lock nuts. You see. I lost a nut. Bought replacement nuts for 5p each at the DIY store. Using threadlock, they stayed there. I took it off and put it back on today. Went *curse words* it and didn't use threadlock. Well wouldn't you know. 5 minutes in RC and bash and my wheel goes solo. I lost a nut, again, but this time I lost the hex thingy and the shaft that goes with it . All I got left is the main outdrives or whatever it's called. Also my shocks are giving out. Rear right is leaking a bit. Actually all but one are leaking . The rear right is leaking the most. Well my RC is going to be sheleved for a while.

 

Again.

[daveyboi73]

Hi 

Thought id get back into supplying some decent steel gearsets again so ive had some  done for the Vantage/ Carnage range. They are case hardened  High grade tool steel , come in 32 and 48 dp flavours and are available as complete sets with spur and a matching pinion (Stock Ratios) or your choice or as individual spurs.

Tested the 48dp on 3S and the 32dp hold up nicely on 4S (the rest of the drivetrain wont though lol) so yeah, pretty much bomb proof and must be used with hard steel pinions.The kit Spurs are paired with RW racing Hard steel Pinions.

Made is small batches Here in UK so not the cheapest option, but hand finished quality. 

It will save those many stripped spurs and rebuilds.

 

 

 

Available form here :-

 

Vantage/Carnage 48DP Hard Steel Spur gearset

 

Vantage/Carnage 32DP Hard Steel Spur Gearset

 

Vantage/Carnage 48DP Spur gear

 

Pm me for more info if required.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 22, 2018 by daveyboi73

[Jamil237237]

Did a lil breakdown of the leaky shock. Can you see that blue o ring? That's not supposed to be an o ring. It ripped off the rubber seal. Theese are three year old shocks that haven't been opened till today. I'm broke so gotta be extra skimpy. All the goop has been thrown down the drain. The leak was caused by the seal being a bit weird. It also explains why my RC would launch tilted. The upper part of the shock was missing oil. 

 

Used bearing blaster on it. There's nothing rubber except that damaged top peice. Need to get new seals. Actually maybe not. I put water in it to test the seals and it seemed fine. The shaft is bent though. Not too much so again it's fine. Going to change hex hubs  since they're causing wobble and instability to some degree. Might go for ALU.

 

The rest of the shocks seem fine. The oil is still near the top. All I need is a few spares and oils. Any hints tips or "OI YOUR DOING IT WRONG" would be appreciated. Weeeee.

[daveyboi73]

HI.

It would be a good idea to replace the seals, and either straighten or replace the shaft as when bent they can affect the seals perfomance. Just remember when refilling shock make sure you take you time and let it rest to expell all the air bubbles from the oil, this will ensure your rebuilt shock is silky smooth.

[Nickarla]

Daveyboi those look good but what people are really needing for their FTXs are the gearbox gears, (crown and pinion). 

Edited September 23, 2018 by Nickarla

[Addwhite]

Yes i second that.... Are crown and diff drive gears a possibility?

I have got so fed up with replacing those gears that im now trying my carnage in rear wheel drive. I have removed the front diff, front cvds and the main shaft. Have adjusted the shock positions and front ride height. And am using hpi firestorm flux wheels. So far im pleased with the performance. Only run a couple of packs through it but for the kind of surface i run on it seems to work well. Still tweaking it at the moment. Yes its better in 4wd but its a lot of fun and a bit more of a challenge. Think it will need some rear wing though.... Lets see how the rear diff holds up....

[lennylogknob]

8 hours ago, Nickarla said:

Daveyboi those look good but what people are really needing for their FTXs are the gearbox gears, (crown and pinion).  

 

He's absolutely right. I destroyed another front one yesterday.
 

[lennylogknob]

Addwhite that looks absolutely superb.
Do the Firestorm wheels fit straight on?

[Addwhite]

1 minute ago, lennylogknob said:

Addwhite that looks absolutely superb.
Do the Firestorm wheels fit straight on?

Yes they do with the 5mm wide hex nuts i have. But will be better with the hpi ones so those are on order...

[Jamil237237]

Funny thing I found. When on modelsport to browse future parts. There was an option to browse through manufacturers. Press ftx, then sort by best selling. What's right at the top? The ftx carnage spur gear. The pinions not too far away either. What are people doing?

 

As for rwd. I've swapped the diffs from the front since the rear made a weird sound and would skip teeth, I think. Upon basic inspection. The outside looked fine and seemed to mesh well, so it must be the internal gears skipping. Looked inside, I understood the gears but I don't know if they're worn out enough. Or maybe it just needs more grease/oil. They seemed to mesh fine. Maybe the flex and play during high speeds cause it. What part has actually Brocken on your guys diffs?

 

 

The RC is rwd and the balancing on the car causes some issues while slidding. Snap oversteer etc. Doesn't help that the rear only brakes. It's basically a handbrake.  You could probably fix that with tuning how hard the brakes act. The reason the rear slides out when you use a handbrake is because a still tire has no grip. If you prevent the wheel from locking up. You'll oversteer less. My suspension is stiff, may need to tune that properly now. 

 

Do you guys put oil in your diffs? Maybe that's why it breaks? I dunno.

[daveyboi73]

I have always shimmed my diffs and havent broken a single one yet. Maybe your slipper clutch is to tight ?.

Any way, ill have a look at a better crown and pinion, no worries

Edited September 23, 2018 by daveyboi73

[Addwhite]

7 minutes ago, Jamil237237 said:

Funny thing I found. When on modelsport to browse future parts. There was an option to browse through manufacturers. Press ftx, then sort by best selling. What's right at the top? The ftx carnage spur gear. The pinions not too far away either. What are people doing?

 

As for rwd. I've swapped the diffs from the front since the rear made a weird sound and would skip teeth, I think. Upon basic inspection. The outside looked fine and seemed to mesh well, so it must be the internal gears skipping. Looked inside, I understood the gears but I don't know if they're worn out enough. Or maybe it just needs more grease/oil. They seemed to mesh fine. Maybe the flex and play during high speeds cause it. What part has actually Brocken on your guys diffs?

 

 

The RC is rwd and the balancing on the car causes some issues while slidding. Snap oversteer etc. Doesn't help that the rear only brakes. It's basically a handbrake.  You could probably fix that with tuning how hard the brakes act. The reason the rear slides out when you use a handbrake is because a still tire has no grip. If you prevent the wheel from locking up. You'll oversteer less. My suspension is stiff, may need to tune that properly now. 

 

Do you guys put oil in your diffs? Maybe that's why it breaks? I dunno.

I have never had any issues with the internal diff gears. I just keep them topped up with grease. Im not sure if oil would work or not, depends how good the seals are... And from my experience they dont seem that great.

The issue we have is the main outer crown/ring gear mounted to the diff. I find even if they dont loose teeth they eventually just wear anyway so the metal is just too soft. For some reason its mainly the front. I have only ever replaced the rear once since ive owned the car. Most of the time the diff drive gear that drives the crown gear is ok. But last week i had both bearings fail in my front diff case and it took both gears out too.... So just giving rear wheel drive a try....