Jump to content
  • Join our community

    Sign-up for free and join our friendly community to chat and share all things R/C!

Hyper ST Owners Thread


Recommended Posts

5 minutes ago, The Hound said:

does anyone know of a motor mount with more travel ? I'm looking to go 26t as I have a 1500kv motor and 46t spur

 

Still running ST pinions in the diffs?  Swap them for 11t out the Hyper 7 and you'll get a big jump in ratio.

 

Otherwise the SS / VS mount can be used with only one locking screw - Wrighty has done it though whether it was just for flat work with his speed runner or he bashed it IDK, though personally I wouldn't want to bash it like that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Still running ST pinions in the diffs?  Swap them for 11t out the Hyper 7 and you'll get a big jump in ratio.

 

Otherwise the SS / VS mount can be used with only one locking screw - Wrighty has done it though whether it was just for flat work with his speed runner or he bashed it IDK, though personally I wouldn't want to bash it like that.

Mine was just for speed running, I'm pretty sure it was something like 34t pinion/46t spur though, as long as the total tooth count is lower than around 76 it should have both mounting screws holding it in place for bashing.

I have run 25/50 on the ss mount with plenty room to spare and that was on the castle 1717 on 6s

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
8 hours ago, METALHEAD said:

The brakes on mine are utter garbage

 

Standard brakes should work fine.

 

What battery type are you using for the receiver? 4 x AA are not the best as voltage is at best 6V when new but quickly drops. Rechargeable nimh packs are commonly used as they have a flatter voltage discharge curve.

Torque spec of the servo affects the force applied, what is the servo spec?

Transmitter settings can affect how servo operates, such as dual rate and end points. have a look at these and see if they need adjusting.

Have you checked how tight the hex screws are that hold the calipers to the diff post? Tighten screws until brake disc starts to bind then back off a bit and make sure disc freely rotates.

Have you adjusted the collar location on the linkage rods? They can be adjusted individually so that force is applied to front and rear brakes at same time or biased so that front or rear applied first.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, locky said:

 

Standard brakes should work fine.

 

What battery type are you using for the receiver? 4 x AA are not the best as voltage is at best 6V when new but quickly drops. Rechargeable nimh packs are commonly used as they have a flatter voltage discharge curve.

Torque spec of the servo affects the force applied, what is the servo spec?

Transmitter settings can affect how servo operates, such as dual rate and end points. have a look at these and see if they need adjusting.

Have you checked how tight the hex screws are that hold the calipers to the diff post? Tighten screws until brake disc starts to bind then back off a bit and make sure disc freely rotates.

Have you adjusted the collar location on the linkage rods? They can be adjusted individually so that force is applied to front and rear brakes at same time or biased so that front or rear applied first.

 

I am using the 4x AA to be honest, so an upgrade to a hump pack is an option which I'm already considering, should I go with 6v or 7.2v? I've played with the adjustment collars with little to no effect but I've not touched the rail bolts it all moves on. The servo is the standard 6kg Servox one

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6V rechargeable pack is fine and first upgrade.

 

Push the car along and apply brakes whilst still pushing, how does it feel, any resistance, same front and rear?

Will the brakes lock the wheels when pushing and manually operating brakes via servo arm?

Try adding some small lengths of fuel tubing between collars and servo arm.

 

If still not satisfied then get a servo with more torque.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, locky said:

6V rechargeable pack is fine and first upgrade.

 

Push the car along and apply brakes whilst still pushing, how does it feel, any resistance, same front and rear?

Will the brakes lock the wheels when pushing and manually operating brakes via servo arm?

Try adding some small lengths of fuel tubing between collars and servo arm.

 

If still not satisfied then get a servo with more torque.

 

When you say fine would I need a larger pack for a high torque servo? or pair of servos? If so and its a possible eventuality I'm thinking I may as well just upgrade it now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Higher torque servo will use same voltage, it has different gears/motor/electronics, so standard 6V nimh receiver battery pack is suitable. 

 

Not sure what kind of battery box you have, as other battery types could be used but simplest is nimh. Typically called hump pack or stick pack.

 

You can go for LiFe 6.6V battery using most standard servos, or LiPo 7.4V battery with certified servos or with voltage reducer on standard servos. And a charger that can handle LIFe and/or LiPo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, locky said:

Higher torque servo will use same voltage, it has different gears/motor/electronics, so standard 6V nimh receiver battery pack is suitable. 

 

Not sure what kind of battery box you have, as other battery types could be used but simplest is nimh. Typically called hump pack or stick pack.

 

You can go for LiFe 6.6V battery using most standard servos, or LiPo 7.4V battery with certified servos or with voltage reducer on standard servos. And a charger that can handle LIFe and/or LiPo.

Oh cool, maybe something like these then?

 

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/power-hd-lf20-metal-geared-servo/rc-car-products/388829

 

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/modelsport-uk-6v-receiver-battery-and-charger-pack-stick-pack-/rc-car-products/27465

 

Thanks for your help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, METALHEAD said:

 

The stock servo set up right with a steady 6v from a hump pack should be more than enough to stop the ST.  That servo you linked is overkill (it's your $$ though) - I use them as budget steering servo's in 1/8 buggy's and truggy's.

 

If it was me (and postage costs not a concern) then I'd get a hump pack sorted first and go from there.  Even with 4AA's, so long as there fresh, the stock servo should stop it - baring in mind of course the amount of grip on offer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, capri-boy said:

 

The stock servo set up right with a steady 6v from a hump pack should be more than enough to stop the ST.  That servo you linked is overkill (it's your $$ though) - I use them as budget steering servo's in 1/8 buggy's and truggy's.

 

If it was me (and postage costs not a concern) then I'd get a hump pack sorted first and go from there.  Even with 4AA's, so long as there fresh, the stock servo should stop it - baring in mind of course the amount of grip on offer.

This is my train of thought as the AA's are brand new and so is the car yet it takes 15-20 feet to stop from 20 mph ish, which is why I'm pushing towards servo replacement

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, METALHEAD said:

This is my train of thought as the AA's are brand new and so is the car yet it takes 15-20 feet to stop from 20 mph ish, which is why I'm pushing towards servo replacement

 

dry grass? wet grass? etc?  Have you had a go setting the brakes up as above?  From my memory of rtr nitro's there's usually room for fine tuning / improvement.

 

You could try the steering servo as brakes.... it's stronger, to see if it's any better.  Just dont steer with the T/B servo - it's not up to it really.  Then if needed you could put the new lf20 onto steering duties - it's stronger than the stock savox.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, capri-boy said:

 

dry grass? wet grass? etc?  Have you had a go setting the brakes up as above?  From my memory of rtr nitro's there's usually room for fine tuning / improvement.

 

You could try the steering servo as brakes.... it's stronger, to see if it's any better.  Just dont steer with the T/B servo - it's not up to it really.  Then if needed you could put the new lf20 onto steering duties - it's stronger than the stock savox.

 

 

thats on tarmac.... I'll have a play with it tonight ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, locky said:

 

 

4 hours ago, capri-boy said:

 

 

Well guys, I stripped the pads out and tightened the retainer bolts, adjusted the servo arm, trim and what have you and although much better I'm still not happy so unfortunately I think I'm going to have to upgrade the servo... Better go break the "devastating" news to the mrs.... lol

Thanks for your help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

37 minutes ago, METALHEAD said:

I'm still not happy

 

Swap your steering servo over first and try it as that will have more torque. If good then get new servo for steering. If not then something still wrong,

 

What brake material is rhe disc, metal or fibre? You could roughen surface with fine sand/emery paper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, locky said:

 

 

Swap your steering servo over first and try it as that will have more torque. If good then get new servo for steering. If not then something still wrong,

 

What brake material is rhe disc, metal or fibre? You could roughen surface with fine sand/emery paper.

Im tempted to just buy two 20kgs and just have done with it, £23 each is nowt really

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A Hyper 7 TQ2 radio box is a direct fit and an upgrade (cheap too) the battery is fully enclosed unlike the stock one which isn't the most secure, it's not uncommon for batteries to fall out whilst driving leading to runaways.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Pistonhead said:

A Hyper 7 TQ2 radio box is a direct fit and an upgrade (cheap too) the battery is fully enclosed unlike the stock one which isn't the most secure, it's not uncommon for batteries to fall out whilst driving leading to runaways.

 

Having not run the nitro do you just use the radio box or the complete assembly?

 

I haven't checked part numbers to check, but the new VS shares a lot with the 7 and a VS assembly via the ebay breakers is currently cheaper:

 

VS:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HoBao-Hyper-VS-Radio-Receiver-Battery-Box-Tray-Set-/162074425349?hash=item25bc637805:g:5pAAAOSw41xXO5KM

 

TQ2

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HoBao-Hyper-7-TQ2-Radio-battery-servo-tray-box-inc-fitting-bolts-/131825603354?hash=item1eb16b131a:g:uQIAAOxywXFSdGcZ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just the rx/battery box at the rear end - not the entire tray. 

 

Can't say anything about the vs tbh as not had any experience with them. But then it's not an expensive thing to buy and find it doesn't fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...