Tiernan85 Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Can't fault HPI and their customer service! Good to see you've been well taken care of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Sorry for another silly question but this motor States that the application will fit a 1/10 scale 2wd car so this should in theory fit the e firestorm then? I know this is a crazy motor combo to go with but I want one http://www.modelsport.co.uk/castle-max-pro-sct-esc-2400kv-motor/rc-car-products/39947 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiernan85 Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 (edited) Yep should fit fine. But I don't think you'll see much benefit versus the stock motor. The flux motor is already a 4 pole motor and is 4000kv. While yes, you will be able to gear this one higher, I don't think the gearing will make much of a change to the speed with the vast kv difference. I think you'll get similar speeds with them both. That's just my opinion. Maybe there's more to that combo then I'm reading... If I was looking for more power, I wouldn't be looking there. If you want speed runs, go with an 1/8 scale power system. Other than that, the flux or hobbywing system is very adequate for general bashing/racing and speed runs if you desire. Just my opinion. Edited February 4, 2015 by Tiernan85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Ahh ok thank you! If I decide to go with an 1/8th motor, won't I have to do some mods for the motor to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiernan85 Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Maybe. Give me 15 minutes and I'll see if I can fit the castle 1515 2200kv in mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Ok awesome! Thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiernan85 Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 (edited) Does not fit. Would need some modifications. Not big mods. Could likely do what's needed with just a dremel. You would also need different gears(spur and pinion)as you would want something taller and you wouldn't want 48p either as the torque of the bigger motor would likely chew the gears up and you need a 5mm bore on the pinion gears too. Edited February 4, 2015 by Tiernan85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jezolekuk Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 (edited) Hi. So far I have used my FS 3 times. So I have about 2.5hours of runtime - more less. I have broke a front upright (at least I think that's what it's called) - The arm thing that connects to the ball joint. I hit a wall with my a wheel. I haven't even go that fast. I was slowing down at this stage and I miscalculated the distance to turn. My question is: Is this normal? I assumed that those cars are not that easy to break. Is there a metal or tougher version of that upright? Many thanks, Edited February 4, 2015 by jezolekuk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Does not fit. Would need some modifications. Not big mods. Could likely do what's needed with just a dremel. You would also need different gears(spur and pinion)as you would want something taller and you wouldn't want 48p either as the torque of the bigger motor would likely chew the gears up and you need a 5mm bore on the pinion gears too. ok mate I appreciate the help so much! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomlad Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I broke my front A arm the second go at having a Lipo in it by crashing it into a wall. They are tough cars but you can't expect them to survive crashing into walls. I have ordered a T bone bumper for mine to hopefully prevent this happening. (Can't prevent the naff driving ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiernan85 Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 (edited) Happy to help Brandon. As Tomlad mentioned, if you're hitting a solid object, 9 times out of 10 something will break. If it's just hitting a jump and tumbling around from a bad landing it's generally going to be ok. If it's a front arm that broke you could look at RPM arms. Edited February 4, 2015 by Tiernan85 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rtsbasic Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Hi. So far I have used my FS 3 times. So I have about 2.5hours of runtime - more less. I have broke a front upright (at least I think that's what it's called) - The arm thing that connects to the ball joint. I hit a wall with my a wheel. I haven't even go that fast. I was slowing down at this stage and I miscalculated the distance to turn. My question is: Is this normal? I assumed that those cars are not that easy to break. Is there a metal or tougher version of that upright? Many thanks, Most of anything will break when you hit a wall. Stay away from solid objects and you'll be fine I ordered new front arms and other parts this week, not because they broke, but because they worn out after years of bashing, jumping, speed runs and racing. One of the toughest RC's I've owned for sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty_b Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Thinking about going Brushless so started looking at combos and found this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOBBYWING-Combo-RC-Car-4000KV-Brushless-Motor-EZRUN-Waterproof-SC8-120A-ESC-/291007924670 Would this be overkill for general bashing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiernan85 Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Nope it's not overkill. It's very similar to the stock flux setup. I run that esc and the stock flux motor which is same spec. 4 pole 4000kv. Only issue I've had with the esc is it hits the low voltage cutoff premature. Don't think they're all like that but have read of others having the same. Easy to bypass and other than that it seems great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Thinking about going Brushless so started looking at combos and found this. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOBBYWING-Combo-RC-Car-4000KV-Brushless-Motor-EZRUN-Waterproof-SC8-120A-ESC-/291007924670 Would this be overkill for general bashing? As Tiernan85 said it's a good setup as 8.5-9t is about right for the fs as mentioned in this post http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/109667-the-e-firestorm-thread/page-215#entry1608005 which is linked in the first post of this thread, it also contains links to some other combos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiernan85 Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Ran a few packs through the FS today. Went well. I increased my gearing to a 23t pinion. I wanted a bit more speed but nothing too drastic. Motor temps stayed cool so I was happy. Going to need some new rear tires soon haha. Chewing through these stock ones quick and it was a used truck to begin with. I'll likely use some Gladiators as they've proven well in the past. Still having the esc issues with the WP SC8's lvc. I dropped the cutoff down to 2.8v/cell(with an external alarm @3.3v/cell for safety). And the esc is still hitting lvc first. It's such a pain. So going to completely turn off the built in lvc. I'm hoping at least that works! Other than that, I quite enjoyed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Not sure if this has been mentioned in the thread before but are there any 17mm hex adapters that will fit the new e firestorm hexs? I want to run 1/8th road tyres on the fs as they are the same size as the stock fs wheels but with 17mm hex's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Relativenewbyseb Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 I have the Mip 17mm hex adapters on mine and run 1/8 buggy wheels, they were from the states for about $30 and replace the 12mm hex altogether 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rtsbasic Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I have the Mip 17mm hex adapters on mine and run 1/8 buggy wheels, they were from the states for about $30 and replace the 12mm hex altogether I'm not 100% sold on the look, but I'm glad you posted some pics, I was thinking about giving it a go Whats that front bumper in the middle pic? Need one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Relativenewbyseb Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Yeah it makes it much narrower than with the wider and offset standard wheels so more I would guess more probe to rolling although I've never run it without them Hahaha well that didn't really do much as a bumper [emoji23] an ansmann royal flash front bumper and a cut up bit of the chassis from the flash to fit it with[emoji106] Bodge until I got my tbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rtsbasic Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Yeah it makes it much narrower than with the wider and offset standard wheels so more I would guess more probe to rolling although I've never run it without them Hahaha well that didn't really do much as a bumper [emoji23] an ansmann royal flash front bumper and a cut up bit of the chassis from the flash to fit it with[emoji106] Bodge until I got my tbone I was comparing my 2.2" Badlands and 1/8 tyres like yours just now, and the physical tyre is narrower as much as the different offset. Will have to investigate 17mm wheel/tyre combo's a bit more. Shame the bumper didn't work out, looks good. I have an RPM blue one, really should dye it black.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I have the Mip 17mm hex adapters on mine and run 1/8 buggy wheels, they were from the states for about $30 and replace the 12mm hex altogether Did you have to do any modifications or did you just install these on the 12mm hex? I want to run GRP wheels as they are 17mm hex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Relativenewbyseb Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 No modifications needed, slight possibility that wheels could catch on bumper so I've turned down dual rate on steering Secured to shaft by a grub screw on either side, pin sits in the back like a normal hex Axle shaft screws into nut which Most 17mm adapters work the same like this I think.... although will vary slightly by brand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ostewart Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) I used these on my blitz, great adapters but not cheap: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/0/rc-car-products/382721 Chose them over the MIP, as they use normal 17mm nuts and look great Edited February 11, 2015 by ostewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjw Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 I have a stock Firestorm Flux. How can I tell how much current is being pulled? Gearing, motor, ESC etc all standard. So, at full throttle, how can I get an idea? Reason is the batteries may say they're 30 - 60C - but how do I know if I even need to not run at full throttle - that could be 20C for all I know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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