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THE E-Firestorm Thread


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Bashed it hard again today, only casualty was the rear wing (now completely fallen off) lets hope it still jumps well. Did a couple more backflips today and no damage, didn't even move the motor and strip another spur (thought it was going to happen).

 

Quite a few tumbles and bad landings and it comes back wanting more. Put new bearings in the rear hubs, front still seem ok. There's a little too much play in one of the front arms, so not sure whether to replace with white blitz ones, or RPM ones,

 

Had no issues with the shocks so far, but one day would like some nice aluminium ones for it (pro-line pro-spec were amazing but pricey on my blitz) 

 

IMG_20161228_161625_zpsa1yqwqce.jpg

 

Edited by ostewart
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 Got some cheap 2nd hand wheels from my local hobby shop (got 12-17mm hex adapters on order as I have a few wheels for my Losi 8ight I could use on this), these should offer a little more grip up front and hopefully less under steer on wet grass.

 

IMG_20161229_141814_zps5exig6hl.jpg?t=14

 

 

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11 minutes ago, everclear1984 said:

 

Cheap Kyosho adapters from eBay for me

 

 

I was tempted to get some like that, but I have taken a punt on some more expensive ones, shall see how they work out. My thoughts are that the offset is completely different and having the Kyosho style ones means they are essentially the same as stock 12mm hexes and the track width will be narrower with 17mm hex wheels, 

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252146763975

 

These don't look like they extend much which is good, as that puts more strain on the bearings. If the above don't work, I will get MIP ones, or something like these:

 

http://www.teamstrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=hex adapter&category_id=0&description=1&model=1&product_id=1134

 

Pricey though...

 

Used to have these on my Blitz, and they were great, but out of stock:

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/team-c-wheel-adapter-rear-17mm-rear/rc-car-products/382721

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@bishbashbosh use a longer screw with a bolt on the back on the shocks, then it won't pull out. Had to do the same on the front camber links on the shock tower.

 

Took mine out again today, still love how much of a beating it can take and keep coming back for more. Giving it some TLC this afternoon, gearbox clean (diff doesn't need doing so slightly easier), new bearings in the gearbox and motor (bearings on order), won't be using it for a couple of days.

 

Winter bashing is a pain with mud and water, lots more maintenance but I enjoy working on it. 

 

The new wheels definitely help it turn on wet grass

Edited by ostewart
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Hi all, need some noob advice please. Getting back into rc after 20 years after selling my Tamiyas and not wanting to get too technical I want something easy but durable. I'd love a modern durable King Cab so I'm looking at stadium racers.

I'm looking at a second hand brush motor e Firestorm that hasn't been touched for 3 years and except for old dirt and dust, looks in good condition. He wants 60 quid. No battery or charger. Bargain or should I hold out for something better??

Thanks for any advice

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

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@bishbashbosh use a longer screw with a bolt on the back on the shocks, then it won't pull out. Had to do the same on the front camber links on the shock tower.


It's not the bottom arm bolt it's the actual thread on the piston rod came out the bottom shock cap/spring seat bit. As if it was forced downward.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

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Gearbox got a clean and had some new bearings, as did the motor (only the front was slightly crunchy and didn't really need changing but though I might as well)

 

IMG_20170104_191652_zpsv02wck39.jpg

 

Also fitted the hex adapters, the offset is perfect (almost the same as stock, maybe a tad wider). You will need some 7mm flat type hexes first though (had some in my spares box)

 

These do look like they will add a tiny bit more stress to the bearings, but not run yet so we shall see.

 

You could use narrower hexes to start off with, but you will need to trim down the nut that holds the adapter on to the axle, I might try this soon.

 

IMG_20170104_195812_zpschmeftpa.jpg

 

IMG_20170104_200134_zpstnqi2oja.jpg

 

IMG_20170104_201237_zpsjqqcyvof.jpg

 

Nanda blocks on the rear, Fastrax Mathblock on the front. Chassis still bottoms out so no added strain on the shock arms/towers.

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5 minutes ago, ostewart said:

Gearbox got a clean and had some new bearings, as did the motor (only the front was slightly crunchy and didn't really need changing but though I might as well)

 

IMG_20170104_191652_zpsv02wck39.jpg

 

Also fitted the hex adapters, the offset is perfect (almost the same as stock, maybe a tad wider). You will need some 7mm flat type hexes first though (had some in my spares box)

 

These do look like they will add a tiny bit more stress to the bearings, but not run yet so we shall see.

 

You could use narrower hexes to start off with, but you will need to trim down the nut that holds the adapter on to the axle, I might try this soon.

 

IMG_20170104_195812_zpschmeftpa.jpg

 

IMG_20170104_200134_zpstnqi2oja.jpg

 

IMG_20170104_201237_zpsjqqcyvof.jpg

 

Nanda blocks on the rear, Fastrax Mathblock on the front. Chassis still bottoms out so no added strain on the shock arms/towers.

 

Love the look with buggy wheels on ;)

 

where did you get your motor bearings from ? Mine probably need doing by now

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9 hours ago, tomr said:

 

Love the look with buggy wheels on ;)

 

where did you get your motor bearings from ? Mine probably need doing by now

 

Rcbearings as i do all the rest, 695zz size for the stock motor.

 

You need to heat up the end plate of the motor to remove the stock one. My motor plate changed colour ever so slightly from this, but it's not very noticeable.

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On 1/5/2017 at 08:51, ostewart said:

 

Rcbearings as i do all the rest, 695zz size for the stock motor.

 

You need to heat up the end plate of the motor to remove the stock one. My motor plate changed colour ever so slightly from this, but it's not very noticeable.

What tool did you use to remove the bearing, I had to get a model shop to install a new bearing.

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2 hours ago, Leo Best said:

What tool did you use to remove the bearing, I had to get a model shop to install a new bearing.

 

Didn't need any, as you see you have to heat up the end plate and the bearing just falls out, don't burn yourself or the carpet though.

 

Front gearing just use anything that will fit and tap with a hammer, it'll pop straight out,

 

I heated up the end plate of a Castle 1410 once, it changed it's colour but was still fine.

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Well my lads firestorm came to a halt last week, I've just had a look and the motor has seized up, 

the motor was originally in a FTX edge brushless we brought 5or 6 years ago so it's done very well I think.

its a 3930kv.

 

784AA39F-2CCD-48FB-B8FE-01C663CF35AB_zps

 

Edited by jjh23
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