Redback

As the gatekeeper doesnt have a slipper and small dp spiral cut diff pinions and spurs the weak point is the diffs, I modified the transmission slightly with a 40t axial spur and some slipper gaskets on the stock enduro spur plates, shaved the back one down a bit as it was binding on the pinion. Is now rapidly quick on 2s and slipper slips nicely when expected, hold the truck down it will slip anyother time it bites. Also cut down the spare battery tray to hold a 2nd 3s lipo battery just to power the insanely strong servo needed to shift the ifs kit with deep dish wheels.

Hello @Krazeland Im interested the turnigy 4s, can you please give me some size specs Width x Length x Height, thank you!

Servo upgrade, doesnt move unless told unlike the stock one that had tons of play. Had to trim some of the chassis to fit in the servo what a pain, ftx love to use weird servo shapes and there for wierd chassis stiffening that makes you have to cut stuff, will be getting a carbon fiber chassis i think. Anti oscillation mod v1 completed with light testing and still using the bent shaft there is no vibrations or wobble. Restrained the bearing with shrinkwrap with a stiff foam block to keep the bearing inplace. Secured to the top brace and the chassis. Just waiting on another 4s battery, ergo the lack of real progress. Would love some reccomendations for 100c 4s batteries 3200mha + that arnt really tall.

1-2mm from the top. the rubber gasket is designed to be the buffer, some might seep out as the top cap is replaced this is normal, just dont over fill it or the pressure will be to high and the shock to stiff.

Yep a little threadlock and dont over tighten or the shaft will bind. 30 - 35 weight / k oil if its all spilled out.

Looks like it goes a treat with the new setup. One happy lad is a happy dad! Well done!

Awesome going! Great to see it running, you need more space to really open the taps, looking forward to seeing you hit your goal!

"Perfect" sums it up pretty well! Great driving!

Can be called thickness can be called weight, can be 35 or 35,000, diffrent brands use diffrent sayings they all do the same thing. 30 - 35 Weight is about standard and should do for general bashing, not sure what comes in the ftx shocks it grey gunge and the bottom caps usally are loose and come undone spitting out all the shock fluid. Tighten or light threadlock dont over tighten as it will bind the shaft.

Lad bent the rear axle shaft on this outlaw and the brand new sway bar he installed yesterday snapped at the same place lol. My outlaw spat the driveshaft pins, then ate its transmission. So back to the custom one that isnt a pile of garbage 😛 Worked a little on the speed project, sorting out another ftx model thats got drive train issues, the banzai likes to bend slipper shafts due to the drive shaft vibrating at high rpm. A 2nd motor mount acting as a bearing carrige holding the drive shaft cup seems to be the fix, just got to find a way not to loose so much battery tray.

This one. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-6-pinion-17-teeth/rc-car-products/13756 Broke the ftx metal diveshaft spat another set of pins as my heatshrink had come a bit loose, so rebuilt joint with pins from the plastic shafts and now 3 lots of heat shrink should keep the pins in place. One thing fixed another thing broken. I put the stock transmission back in for a blast on small road tires. As i have already been through 10 spurs i shouldnt have been surprised this happened after 10 min on 3s. Back to the custom transmission that has never failed. Yep its not an RW spur but that got eaten also by the shaft pin popping out due to flex in the transmission case. Bin time!

Yeah sounds like a wet switch, As the switch has the set button, i didnt cut mine off, just put a balloon around it to keep water out. No failures since.

550 is the motor can length, the speed or turns isn't relative to the can length. 15t is the carnage motor. The higher turn the slower the motor per volt but the more torque dense it would be.

Awesome start! love the camber setup bet its worth the price. Looking forward to seeing how this progresses. Goodluck and safe driving!

This is what they always say, there is no way a model shop can replace exploded capacitors or melted mofset's, the people that sell these hobby products do not know or care thus i avoid ebay / bangood hobby hardware like the plague.

I picked up a 2nd motor mount wondering if it could be used to hold a bearing for the drive shaft. As the motor and drive train oscillate it causes the drive shaft to shift slightly causing a vibration that causes a cascading failure. It bends a little then a lot as the motor spins the drive shaft to 100,000 rpm. As the bearings and shaft didnt work out, it looked like with some cutting it might still be of use as a bearing holder to hold the slipper drive shaft cup. This is the part that starts to flex under loads bending the shaft as shown above. Solution found perhapse. Take your brand new motor mount. Chop out this useless bit. Put it in, dont forget to get the little plastic bearing cap, it doesnt come with the mount boo hoo. Secure top plate. Bang on!, now to stop the bearing coming out / loose, part 2 tomorrow. Screw / mount from the bottom, fabricate metal plate for supporting top screws and brace. Should be good to test.

Got an even smaller spur that might fit, got to try and fix the oscillation on the drive shaft as this is bending slipper shafts and that in turn is stopping me right now pushing the car past 60. Theres tons of steering slop from the servo, This is causing wheel vibrations at high speed making it skittish, so servo upgrade is a must. There is also a fair bit of slop in the servo saver post and arm bushings. Removing this should help with high speed vibrations passing into the driveshaft. or thats a theory. Sorex wheels are now on after peeling the rally blocks off the crawler beadlocks, they did very well making it to 61mph imo. Prepped a little battery adaptor just gotta wait a little longer to sort out my battery issues, to run full parallel capacity, but got ok run time off one. 4s 1600mha about 10 - 15 min 30 -50% throttle all the time (drifting).

Yesterday i broke the ftx steel driveshaft on the outlaw doing speed runs. never broke a plastic one how strange. Today took the banzia out for quick blast on 4s, tires peeled off the gmade beadlocks within 4 min, just hooning about, these had gone to 61mph on 3s on my last run so mark me impressed, Would reccommend crawler beadlocks for your rally car tires! Made a parallel adaptor for the lipos as i wont give up deans just yet 😛 probably dont need it got a good 15+ min out of a single one drifting. Tonight popped on the sorex wheels and tires should be good for 100mph, however the drive train is tearing itself apart so, fixing the bent slipper shaft and seeing if i can balance the center drive shaft oscillation with a 2nd motor mount and bearing. Along with fixing the slop in the steering with a better servo. Oh and bonkers tiny spur to really make things intresting 😁

@DavidBH Hobbywing max10 or Castle sidewinder 4 combo with 3200 - 4000kv motor, higher kv more speed less torque. Castle have much better modulation and programming, hobbywing are bomb proof. (I tend to go for lower kv as you can always pinion up and volt up) This is why i cringe a little when i see anyone recommend a cheap brushless combo. They are good for a little while then die leaving you with a dead truck and no fun. Here are some motor sizes the max 10 with 3652 sits nicely in the middle, anything longer would need the chassis cutting. You really do get what you pay for with motors and esc's ive found and they are worth the investment. 🙂

Arrg it got dirty! 😄

Yeah feel ya! I'd rather not bash a brand over a few issues, All i'd say is check your batteries when the arrive like i have been, and i only buy from uk shops / suppliers. Im sure if its a common issue / production fault we will be hearing more about it. The shop has been pretty good about it thus far, Intrested to hear what the maker says. I dont really want to be draining a cell to 2.5v when going 100mph lol.

4s 100c 1600mha drone packs. Going to give it a drain and recharge but not confident it will balance out.

Today the postie brought me replacment batteries for the two, 4s that arrived DOA, this time only one battery arrived dead. Really bad battery batch it would seem. 😞

Were you using the brass pinion? Cant go wrong with the rw pinions and spurs, was yours stock? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-hardened-acetal-ftx-49t-32dp-spur-gear-vantage-carnage-banzai-hooligan-bugsta/rc-car-products/436586 Check your dp matches the pinion, they also do a another.

Looks great, are you going to fill it with fireworks and drive it around? 😄