Redback

must have been some impact, surprised it snapped in half but also not as ftx chassis are glass. Check the lower arm pin holders havent snapped, they usally go before the arms and chassis. Metal lower front plate and top metal or carbon fiber will be stronger, but then other things will fail, luckly ftx spares are pretty cheap

On 3s you will get massive runtime as its going slow. They are top heavy trucks by nature, best investment is 75g brass portal covers adds loads of weight as low as it will go. We also use heavy weight rims but some dont like rotating mass on the drive line. Avoid adding brass on the chassis as sprung weight is bad and makes it sad. 😅 Tonka

Straya Crikey! G'day!

C rating doesnt matter as its not pulling high amps, and most c rating are fluff and made up anyway. No one really uses the front trays afaik for running batteries, maybe a winch battery or dedicated servo battery up front. I got the esc on the front tray to give some forward bias. You want atleast a 3000mha to get more than 20min run time. That being said, my batteries give me 5 min run time and have 6000mha so if the battries are poor or cant sustain the power it will cutout. these are 60/90c rated batteries but im sure its the resistance and age thats killed the runtime not the truck.

The hobbywing have a stronger startup but less ramp, so it will still go 0 to hero thus sensored system or transmission swaps the only way to get them to "crawl", without a sensor cable brushless motors dont know what direction they are going at low rpm and dont have the guts to move the truck thus, i swapped the transmission in our outlaw. You can put in a big full 550 can low kv brushless, that will handle the lower rpm better. But your spending the same amount to resolve an issue that it wont cure. If you have a spare esc to swap out, do it the photons arnt great maybe you will have better luck with the hobbywing, i got sick of turning it off on on every time it stalled in long grass. imo cornering is nothing to do with the motor, all outlaws roll over, you need to upgrade to a front swaybar and stiffen the front springs, also move the battery tray forward and lower to move the CG from being near the moon. Have you also tried, resetting the end points on the esc?, check the throttle is at 100% and expo to before resetting it

They will not go walking pace on brushless, they are geared to high, the only solution is swap the esc and motor for a sensored one, or go brushed and then wait for the motor to melt. You can try lowing the punch and timing with the esc programmer, but it still wont be great.

Axial Yeti would fit the bill, ifs desert racer, fast and nimble, can crawl it too

Its to heavy for the fusion and there is no way to fix it once the esc pops, the Axe r2 550 3300kv is what we and lots use its a beast on 3s.

Its £60 as postage will cost atleast 10£ due to its size. So im only getting 50£. Sorry

they come in 2 parts, i solder them whilst connected as the other plug helps distribute the heat, stopping the one being soldiered melting, worked with deans, xt60 and xt90, hope this helps

If they forgot the pinion, what else was missed?

The issue with these rx/tx are they are both the esc and reciver for the car, thus replacing the radio isnt a simple job. You would be better off looking for a 2nd hand car / with remote that will be the cheapest option.

Maybe copy this guys setup as sounds exactly like what your wanting to do, the hobbywing dont speedrun good, but do blast and hes using the system i speedran my limitless with before moving to castle esc.

FTX Outlaw Rolling Chassis + Spares 60£ Posted Alloy chassis. Alloy steering links. Alloy motor mount. Metal Spur Gear. Rear Diff Locked. Comes with spares and stock chassis. 6 New Spare Tires Look at pictures closely sold as seen. *Broken front bumper support. *Cracks in shell.

Sold Delete please

Never used. Bargain at 50£ posted to your door inc paypal fees. Was 200£ new RRP now days 100£ Spec sheet https://www.kingston.com/datasheets/SM2280S3G2_en.pdf

Looking to sell my project bike, It was in a crash so needs new forks and radiator, other than that its all cosmetic, all elecs / dails function, she runs smooth and starts first time every time. Was going to strip it and run it with a lamp and straight bars however no funds to fix her up. No MOT obviously tho Papers In Order, Collection from Warwickshire. £600 ono

Similar happend to me, i ditched the spring and as had it open used a rubber band to hold the trigger in place, been working a treat for years as the esc and rx is built in on your model, you will also need an esc if you replace the tx/rx unit, so maybe a rubber band will be the best option for now?

Time to go brushless 😉 magic smoke probably from the brushes, hows the drive train feel with the motor removed much binding in the portals?

Probably not worth the expense posting it to them, pull the core out and inspect it, you cant damage it more, they are designed to be opened and maintained by hobbyists. Does the esc drive other brushless motors if you have a spare car / motor to test it on? Otherwise could aways find a local hobbyshop to work on it with you.

wow, i wouldnt even run that (because it looks expensive) & it looks amazing, shelfer for sure, dont drive it in traffic hate to see it get run over

This was my little friend G. Sadly she passed away today, fking heart broken 😞

It might be the esc, before that tho assuming you checked all the cables and connections, pull the motor rotor out (the motor core) and a picture if possible, dont bin it yet, that shim is supposed to be like that so the rotor doesnt slop back and forward to much. If the rotor dooeosnt have bits missing, it could the the esc. Without seeing if the motors dead its hard to say why these things happen, to much heat, heavy landing on jumps, to tight a mesh etc. Dust and water usually arnt an issue for brushless. If all 3 phase cables are not correctly connected it can cause cogging noises and usally the motor shakes (eg if you have 2 of the 3 wires connected) That didnt seem like what was happening here tho as the motor spun.

If you go with GRP you may need to gear up to account for the smaller size of the GRP's, personally i sold my grp for my buggy and went back to hoons. If your loosing grip ease on the throttle smoother or put a ramp on the exp if you can.

Sounds dead, could be a bearing gone, but more likely the magnets have delamiated and is hitting the coils, open it up lets see inside the motor.