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Ninetiesbeard

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Everything posted by Ninetiesbeard

  1. Welcome back! Its a very addictive hobby indeed. I suggest looking at the Arrma range, they seem to have a huge following which must be for a good reason. Slash 4x4 is a good truck as well, i would definitely suggest buying second hand though because the new price of those trucks is pretty extreme. I agree with what bertberr said above, there are better trucks for the money.
  2. Does Alza racing not have the items you need?
  3. Okay here we go, lengthy post inbound. Welcome to rc! Youre going to have lots of fun. If you want larger overall tyre diameter, you have many options. The type of wheels that the sherpa comes with are called "beadlocks" which means you can undo the bolts on the wheels and take the tyres off without the need to glue or unglue them. This makes tyre changes easy, if not a little bit time consuming. The wheel diameters for scale/crawler style rc cars tend to follow three main sizes; 2.2 inch, 1.9 inch, and 1.55 inch. Your sherpa has 1.9 inch wheels, so you will need to buy 1.9 inch tyres for them to fit correctly. If you want to change the size of the rim itself, then you can move up or down to either of the other two sizes. 1.9 looks right on that rig in my opinion. So lets look at tyres now. To clarify, the "1.9 inches" is the internal diameter of the tyre, and the external diameter of the rim. You can buy branded or unbranded tyres. Unbranded tyres are great for budget users, as they are super super cheap. I picked up 6x 1.9 tyres from ebay for £30 recently but 4x 1.9 tyres can be had for around £20 in various different styles and sizes; these are usually copies of branded tyres. If you wanted to buy branded, you would get a nicer product that is for sure but again in my opinion, im not sure if the price increase makes them worth it. Youll need to figure out if you just want them to be taller overall, wider, or have a deeper tread pattern. What is it that you are trying to achieve by changing the tyres? do you want more grip? better ground clearance? or just a different look. These answers affect your options here. Lastly, hexes. Your sherpa comes with 12mm hexes or hex adapters as they are called. Those metal components that drive the wheels. Usually the wheels for these crawlers are 12mm hex, its a sort of standard fitting for crawlers and scalers. For some brands of wheels you need to have a different adaptor which is called "SLW" style but we wont worry about that here. Again new wheels can be bought branded or unbranded depending on your requirements and preference. TL:DR; You dont need to change your trucks wheels to change the tyres, but you can if thats what you want to do. Theres a huge variety of options here, its easy to get swamped. If its easier you can dm me and ill explain a little bit further Hope this helps, NB.
  4. I think its more that the industry is "pro money". Willing to bet that brushless rc constitutes around 75% of all rc purchases these days. So theyll create and sell more of whatever sells most
  5. Continued work parts of a project truck, verified some 3d printed bits for the savage wheel design and checked some goods in from china for the project truck
  6. Yeah, thats a hard find. They werent really that popular when new, or they werent as popular as the t maxxes/revos/savages. I would set up a saved search on ebay so that you get notified daily of new results, check facebook groups and maybe scour some forums, also dont be afraid to look across seas. Those trucks were much more popular in the USA Welcome to the forum, hope this helps. NB.
  7. Personally the WR8 Takes it for me out of that lot. Because of the availability, though HPI are a bit shaky at the moment apparently parts are starting to trickle back out again
  8. SSD for sure although dont forget the gcm bronco bumpers, but they are probably a different dimension.
  9. No idea what a pirates 2 is, but theres a company based in russia that make "unbreakable" bodyshells for rc cars. Maybe they do one for yours? have a look on ebay, thats where their store is. They arent pretty, but theyre thick and strong, id say theyre pretty unbreakable
  10. Generally i would try and avoid both of those brands. Theyre okay for stuff like hardened gears, that they cant really get wrong; but the aluminium grade they use is low and bends easily. They look shiny so if thats your thing they will do that, but they dont hold up or add any strength to the car. This is just my personal experience, with a little of what ive seen, others here may disagree
  11. The paint on that is awesome. OHO smashed it for sure
  12. Built in gyro in a type of receiver its compatible with, hand-feel, cost, and functionality. 6ch wheel transmitter around £50 and the receivers are cheap too, although the gyro ones are slightly more expensive.
  13. Flysky fsgt5. IMO. The stick flysky transmitters are also decent.
  14. Anyone here using gmade VR-01 wheels? are they steel or plastic? cant see that info anywhere

    1. Show previous comments  4 more
    2. Oh How Original

      Oh How Original

      More often than not the cheap ones are low grade.

    3. Ninetiesbeard

      Ninetiesbeard

      Its for a unimog build, i really like the scale look of them, look almost exactly like the real ones

    4. PraetoR

      PraetoR

      I'm using plastic Gmade wheels (different ones) and the quality is really good. I've no complaints. If you like them, go for it!

  15. Guessing some sort of thunder tiger, or kyosho.
  16. Surpass pinions are pretty bad quality, just a heads for anyone buying them. Id say probably 3s max.

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. Paul Busby

      Paul Busby

      Yeah proper cheese metal. I'm with OHO... RW racing are the way forward.

      Tekno pinions are also very good.

    3. GMballistic

      GMballistic

      Sagacustom gears, RW gears, GDS gears and Traxxas are the ones I use & in order of preference. 

    4. Paul Busby

      Paul Busby

      Stock Arrma ones are also pretty good in my experience. I'd put them ahead of the GDS ones, which can be a bit hit or miss. I've had a couple of those strip off in one run.

  17. Check the LMT out, people are saying its pretty decent, personally id love a clod though.
  18. Anyone know where to get MST parts in the uk?

  19. Theres a fella on instagram called @scalebuilt who could probably knock some up for you
  20. You still see them on ebay labelled as savages. IIRC they were a lot worse quality than normal savages. I think it was a clone of the original savage flux.
  21. Does anyone know the width of a TRX-4 portal axle pin to pin? Might use them for a project. thanks

    1. hamradioguy

      hamradioguy

      Is this any help ? 

       

      Quote

      Rear axle hex pin to pin they are 192mm wide ( I assume front axle is the same)

      Front axle link mounts centre to centre: 72mm
      Rear axle link mounts centre to centre: 73.5mm

       

      http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/traxxas-trx-4/594963-axle-width.html

    2. Ninetiesbeard

      Ninetiesbeard

      Thanks bud :) guy rejected my offer anyway, no way on this earth im paying £250 for three portal axles lol

  22. Ive always wanted to build a tatra 815 rc, something that uses 2.2 tires and was mostly metal. Id stick that in this category because i dont have access to the equipment required, and it would cost a lot. Think of it like an 8x8 vanquish ripper
  23. Well, you can run a hobbywing 1080 esc off of 3 18650s

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. bertberr

      bertberr

      Sorry, what are 3 18650s? 🤔

    3. Ninetiesbeard

      Ninetiesbeard

      18650 is referring to a specific size of cell, which are often used for vape batteries. I believe they are also what powers cordless tools most of the time

    4. Lone-wolf

      Lone-wolf

      A lot of rc flyers are using 18650 Li-ion packs in planes, they dont have the same punch as Lipo but can give good duration on low amp draw craft, i did pose a question a while back as to using these in crawlers but did not get much response

  24. Clutch shoes gone, missing grub screw from centre driveshaft causing the centre diff to unload, broken either front or rear diff, stripped hex in a wheel, loose grub screw anywhere in the drivetrain. Could be any of these, check all the grub screws are tight. Pictures and or a video would be useful
  25. May be interested in the growlers if my ones from ebay are too worn when they turn up. Will let you know as soon as i know
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