Garry

Flicks of steering? That's a harsh aggressive input. If you're running in the steer it sounds to me that you've reached the limits of the tyre grip. Without seeing a video of it running its hard to tell if the issue is technical or mechanical. Those tyres look like kit tyres, they are pretty hard compound and from the dust on them it's clear they've been used in a location which isn't a prepared clean surface, the compound is likely to be too hard. Silly question but you're driving with the body on, right? Aerodynamics matter too.

What LiPo was it? (brand, model, capacity, voltage) What charger was it? (brand, model) What charger setting being used? (battery type setting, voltage setting, charge type setting) What LiPo state was it in? (ie. Charged/flat etc). Lots of more info needed as LiPos don't behave that way usually without an underlying reason. Very glad to see the outcome was the least bad it could be but possibly lessons to be learned from the experience.

Marder was 91 with the Beetle the following year.

I can see the ESC being discontinued veryquickly. It's not a software fix it's a redesign and/or hardware change fix. With smaller motors Delta Winds is the industry stsndard. It sounds like it was tested and rated for only Castle motors to keep you in their ecosystem. Of course RCers push boundaries very quickly.

I got one of these for Christmas, works great and very tough with dense foam inside. Good value for money too. I'm carrying a £450 KO Propo in mine so no worries about its suitability. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/logic-rc-aluminium-transmitter-case-stick-type-/rc-car-products/40022

A piece of RC history arrived for me today. Its going in a unique car living in the heart of my collection.

The individual parts of he Savage were made in factories in China. Inevitably the designs were leaked out of the back door as they always did (Baja etc) and sold to other companies then made and leaked etc. Rinse and repeat.[

In Europe yes but in the States its pretty much the third biggest off road 10th racing class behind 2wd buggy and 4wd buggy. But there's another new SCT platform coming out from a big manufacturer in 2021.

I used to race with one of those ESCs years ago. Here's the manual: http://donnyracing.yolasite.com/resources/esc_manuals/GM-Genius 90 120.pdf

Simply put, more mah = more driving time. Keep every other variable the same, double the capacity you'll double your fun. 8000mah are the 3s packs to look at.

Its such a cool concept, the beginning of a long development curve. I see parallels to the crawler category of RC. People get drawn in by the realism and engineer it further and further.

Basically theres 3 tiers to touring car racing now, top tier is where your Cyclone would have sat. Thats full carbon fibre, alloy bulkheads, gear diffs etc. Xray T4'20, Yokomo BD10, Scumacher Mi7 etc. all those are mid motor touring cars at top line state of the art current spec chassis. Next tier down are the budget racers, usually fibreglass chassis material, plastic bulkheads, usually a similar design (sometimes mid motor, usually rear motor. Examples of these are Xpress Xecute XQ10, 3Racing Advance S64, Schumacher Mission FT (currently a FWD chassis but 4wd conversion coming soon). The bottom tier is pretty much beginner cars, Tamiya TT01E or the Tamiya TT02. If it were my money making the decision, I'd go top tier but the prices are lot higher than in the past, £450+ is the norm for that end of the market now. Schumacher have just dropped the price of the Mi7 this month so worth looking at as its a very competitive car. I run Xray T4'20 at the minute and loads of barely used ones are coming up on sales pages as the 2021 version just got released the ot her week. £250-300 would get one of those, they were £530 at the start of the year. Electrics are club dependent over which classes they run, 17.5 is usually the most common at the minute. Batteries are 7.4v hardcase LiPo, lots of good choices at various pricepoints, Tyres are club dependent too.

Its JST-ZH as I said in post 1, I know what it is, I'm looking for a shop selling a pre-made one.

Inside a transmitter to reverse the direction of a pot which doesn't have servo reversing.

IST-ZH Male to female 3pin approx 20cm I bought one in July from a hobbyshop in Germany listed on ebay but they aren't listed anymore and Google isn't helping. I tried soldering up my own from plugs on male pigtails but it did't end well, I can't see the pins that small on the back of the female side.

If screws are coming loose in plastic it means the original thread had stripped. There's only 2 options which will be guaranteed to work: 1. A bigger screw,ideally a self-tapping one. 2. replace the plastic part with brand new plastic one. Anything else is a bodge and likely to fail soon after. Fix it right, fix it once.

Thats my Hahn MAN on the TT01E that it comes with. The body comes with instruction which are okay to follow, but it says use double sided tape to hold it all together. I used tape for the lower front valance bur used M3 screws and nuts elsewhere.

Which exact heatsink is it, you should never need to use thermal paste on an RC motor heatsink so it sounds like something else is amiss here.

Sounds like the gearing is off and cooking the motor. Fitting a 550 compared to 540 (if they were they same turn) you'd need a couple of teeth smaller pinion minimum. Faster motor needs smaller pinion to make up of the lack of torque. Its not an exact science though. Best get a range of pinions and check on motor temps as if you're always flat out everywhere its like going up the M1 in a v8 swapped car in 1st gear only.

I did the chassis and its as any other TT01E. Body I got the MAN version and thats possibly more difficult than the Fat Fox, Be very careful cutting it out. Cut BEFORE paint. Make all the holes you need BEFORE paint, its much easier to line things up when its all clear. Mount the lower section to the chassis first, then cab to lower, then cab back to cab, then front valance. Don't rush it.

One possible good outcome is that Pro-Line now has access to all the licences that Horizon had previously negotiated, namely Chevrolet and Toyota amongst others.

But thats so they can sell you one as an upgrade.

I likebto use halord bicycle teflon grease on gear-to-gear interfaces, its red, sticky but not too thick so a little goes a long way. I use it both in gear cases and inside diffs, Depending on use I relube every 6 months or so, whenever I do a major diassembly as when you're opening everything up its like preventative maintenance. When things start getting noisy its a sign to crack it open and squirt some in. https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-maintenance/bike-lube/bikehut-teflon-grease---125ml-164321.html