Nitroholic

I think this simply comes down to needing clearance for the spur gear here. In the same way Nitro cars need a clearance hold for the spur. Otherwise, you have to mount hte motor higher, which thenmakes hte driveline layout less simple. It's easier to just make a hole in the chassis. A plastic cover would stop debris getting in...but...would snag on anything the car drove over and probably get torn off. You could probably make a cover of sorts with a piece of lexan ( bodyshell material ) but you would need to mount it on the diff mount screws, which isn;t ideal.

Funds send for 'Lil Pinky' time to build a little indoor course in the garage to play with this when it's not so cold I got frost on the INSIDE of the garage door!

Gaz mate..I'm gonna regret this in the morning.... but I kind of like the pink Landy. I haven't been drinking....honest. Sell it to me quick before I change my mind/sober up

When soldering bullets, I always use the block of wood thing to hold them. Even for occasional use, though, a decent soldering iron is so much nicer to use. I had a cheapo one, and everything about it was annoying. From a flex that wanted to 'curl' and make the iron roll over if I rested it on a stand though to wobbly tips and unpredicvtable heating times. I also have a big chunky Weller iron. The good iron is so much nicer to use. I solder better with it too as a result

Generally speaking, runtime is down to the size of the battery. Highr mAH ratings will last longer. LiPo batteries put out more power, and as you run them down, don;t drop voltage in the same waya NiMh does. They take more care, and need to be properly looked after, but they will make your car run better. In practice, the usable runtime tends to be longer as well. Just make sure your ESC has a properly set low voltage cutoff Last thing.... when I last ran a LiPo on a brushed motor, the motor got pretty hot and didn;t last. It was a cheapy RTR motor, and the extra power the battery made available gave the motor issues. So be aware. You may need to watch the gearing, and certainly the motor temperatures.

I've never really had issues melting connectors.... only when I was using old-school Deans type. Then, I found things went better if I plugged both halves of the connector together when I was soldering. Gives a slightly bigger heat sink. I also used a fairly broad flat tip on the soldering iron to get good heat transfer. The longer you leave the iron on...the more heat transfers tot he plastic, and the more likely you are to melt it. I also found that holding both halves of the connector was easier. Tin the wires and the connector and let it cool Flux will help solder melt and flow, and with flux cored solder... when you tin the wires and connector surface....the flux goes. A dab of extra flux helps the joint to form faster. Or...seems to for me!

Ran a KM clone and genuine HPI Baja side by side for a while. Only thing I found about clone that needed close attention was the prep. Diff and gears were poorly greased, and the threadlocking was not what I would want. I bought the absolute bottom end KM clone, which had awful cheap servos and wheels without a reinforcing band. Wasn;t fussed...as I had intended to replace those parts with upgrades anyway....so I wasn;t fussed. Haven't run a Rovan clone, but I have seen one in the flesh, and I was not impressed. Buy a KM clone....but strip it down, replace the diff oil, regrease the gearbox, and reassemble with threadlock where its needed. Also...if your choice of KM doesn;t have an alloy clutch support...buy and fit one. Look at things like the servos and radio gear, and if you aren;t happy...plan to upgrade. A lot of the clones RC Modelz sell have had upgrades applied....just dont bother with alloy suspension arms. Plastic is better here.

I would say dead too. Very dead. Unbolt it and open up the motor can if possible. See how many bits fall out. Unless the car is less than a year old, in which case....contact the shop about a warranty.

I'd probably get in trouble running that at my local park.....

Yeah do it . I did it to mine. Just install a low voltage buzzer, and be sure not to forget to turn the damn thing off when you pack everything away.

First thing to check is the size of the wheel hexes, and then check the tyres diameter. There shouldn;t be a need to buy wheels/tyres designed specifically for the buggy, as generally tyres are made to a variety of standard sizes based on scale and type. so...for example....if you have a 1/10 scale buggy ..... most good model stockist ( Modelsport, Wheelspin etc. ) will give you options to narrow down the choices. so: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/wheels-tyres/wheels-tyre-sets/buggy/110? If you then need specifics...go to the info tab, and it will usually give you the tyre dioameter and wheel hex size. so: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/fastrax-1-10th-mounted-cuboid-black-buggy-wheels-and-tyres-front-434084 these are 12mm hex, 2.2" in diameter. Check that against what you have, and it should give you a good idea if they are right. You can also find different wheel styles, on road tyres, and varying off road tyres depending on the sort of surfaces you run on. Once you know the basic size, type of fitment and the like, you will usually find many options out there.

No...life would be so easy if that was true, but it isn't. If the parts are no longer made, and there are none floating around on E-Bay, and no suitable made to fit aftermarket parts, then you need to get creative. You need parts designed to fit or close enough that they can be modified. Suspension arms need to fit at the hub end and on the inner side. Plus they need the shock mounts in the right place too. You may hit lucky buying random bits....but the odds are not in your favour. Your best bet is to take all the arms off...take a good clear photo of each, then measure every critical dimension...add them on the picture in photshop...then puit them up in here to see if people have any parts knocking around that would work. Then buy them, or ones like them.

Not petrol powered..... this is a 1/10 scale nitro powered car. Actual petro lpowered RC's are usually 1/5 scale....and a LOT bigger than this will be. I don;t recognise the chassis. but it doesn;t look to bee in too bad a state.

nice model to start with

Sounds like you have a fun project ahead of you! My tactics would be to tell the wife they are all worth more as runners with radio gear, so you can put them up for sale tested and usable. Then you are guaranteed the enjoyment of tinkering, and having a few test runs ..and then just keep the good ones! Sounds like you got quite a bit of stuff to work through, and it sounds like you are going to enjoy it! best of luck!oh.. and tell us if you find anything interesting

The biggest challenge with a collection like this is actually identifying what you have. For example....with the tanks.... the common scale is 1/16, and you could have Tamiya tanks ( costing £500 or more new ) or Heng Long tanks ( costing around £150 new) and if you are selling them on, you don;t want to sell Tamiya stuff for Chinese copy prices. Same goes for the cars. Plus, of course, if you need spares, you need to know if you can get them, and how easily. Keeping cars for the kids to play with is nice, but you want to keep ones that you can use properly, and fix if you break things. Not find out you are driving a rare and collectable shelf-queen with parts made from pure unobtanium 🙂 Or end up trying to shift a Chinese HiMoto rebrand on E-Bay for double what its worth. I'm guessing that some of this stuff is fairly old, as 'crystal' based radios have been largely replaced with 2.4Ghz gear that do not need or use them.

got one of these:

You may well find the small motor in a PC fan just won't have the power you need. There is no such thing as a 'powerful' PC fan really. They are limited in votage as the power supply from a motherbaord is not that great either in voltage or amps. Now....your first build I assume just used a single prop for lift and propulsion? ...and you plan on using a seperate lift engine to fill the cushion and a ducted fan ( I guess on a directional controlled mount or with rudders ) to move and steer. It's a solid design strategy for a hover craft, but I would look at a second ducted fan to do that, not a PC fan. You need to be able to flow enough air for whatever size skirt you are going to have, as air basically spills out hte bottom constantly and hte fan needs to replace it. If you fan can;t move the air...the hovercraft is just ...er...a craft. No hover. Some useful stuff on here: https://modelhovercraft.co.uk/

For a £300 budget, a £35 radio is exactly what I would reccomend. By the time you have added in batteries, charger, and the stuff to complete the kit, then thats really what the budget dictates. Where this dicsussion does help, though, ios when the next step comes along. Does the OP want a nicer experience driving with a higher end radio, or does the budget radio do whats needed and the cheaper cost of receivers mean itrs easier to add more models to the collection without needing to spend on radio gear. Very much horses for courses. i.m no drifter...and I'm no Tamiya fan...but for a first DIY kit....Tamiya os probably the way to go. Mainly for the support, upgrades, shiny bits and general level of know how and support. If, however, you want to move on to bigger and better things...you will outgrow a TT02. So I would advise getting a basic understanding ofthe techniques with the TTO2, and then decide how far down the rabbit hole you want to go before investing more money in a basic chassis.

The issue is rather, how many supposedly higher end items actually contain the same cheap components as the budget items. Reviews online can be a bit hit and miss, unless you know the person reviewing. Far too often stuff gets 'good' reviews from bad sources, or from received wisdom. I put mor efaith in good reviews from people who bought and use the item in question. When it comes to 'quality' ... I would trust brands like Futaba or Sanwa, but the costs are high. Most of the rest of the field are all coming from the same sources and a lot use the same internals with minor alterations, and there wont be much difference quality wise between them. Some even bump up prices from £30ish to £50ish to make their offerings look better. If you are buying at this end of hte market...results are all that matters. If it works well, responds OK, and gives you reliable handling...the name matters not one bit.

Those old flat twins have a peculiar charm. Never warmed to the ride myself, but I can understand why folk get obsessed with them. But yeah...a 919 Hornet is a great bike. I sold mine for the simple reason it was just such a sleeper. Hooligan in sheeps clothing. I ended up going everywhere faster than I ought, and enjoying every minute. Great brakes with loads of feel, and enough torque to lift thte front on the gas. Massively reliable too. Apart from consumables, the only thing that broke was a horn wire in 30k miles 🙂

Your charger is marginal for the job, but it is also possible you have a faulty pack. I would contact the seller and tell them your new pack won;t fully charge. Tell them what you did, the settings you charged at, the charger you used, and the results you got.

Do you know what wattage your charger is? If you are charging a 6S pack at 5amps, you need a reasonably powerful charger. Each cell is 3.7V, so you have 22.2V at 6S. As per my shoolboy physics, Power( Watts) = Voltage x Current .... so thats 22.2 x 5 = 111Watts. So if your charger has 50W, or 80W , it will never manage to push the pack all the way to fully charged before it times out and stops. Worth checking the voltage of your battery packs and the wattage of your charger to make sure it is up to the job.

These things are only worth what someone is prepared to pay. And that will probably be a little under half what you paid if you are lucky. Expect a string of lowball offers. Seriously...I would not sell a part done project if I was looking for best returns. I would take it apart, and sell the parts. Otherwise, you got to find someone who agrees with your choice of parts for the project, and fancies picking up and finishing the project...which probably is going to soak up another big pile of cash. Especially if the parts have little or no use. That way, you have a much larger potential market for the upgrade parts and the stock spares. And the reason I predict loads of lowball offers, will be the folk trying to buy your project to make a profit parting it out.....

Some of the clones used to come with cheaper plugs.... but the only other thing to watch out for is E-Bay being flooded with rubbish knock off copy CMR7H plugs. Buy from a good supplier, and they last a long time