New FTX OUTLAW 4WD

16 hours ago, t2boats said:

 

Im sure it will to be honest, from holding it I can tell it's a decent girth and the makeup of it feels tip top! I'll give it the thorough once over when I've finished doing what needs doing before for xmas, I'm sure we won't be dissapointed.. ??

TWSS 

Still kind of want one...

 

Not the thing of decent girth, I mean the Outlaw!!

Rough week so i've been nowhere near the LHS, though a significant other has been nadging over what to get me for Xmas so i've left the laptop on with a browser showing this on eBay for a week as a hint.... I expect to get socks and pants though of course.

4 minutes ago, capri-boy said:

Rough week so i've been nowhere near the LHS, though a significant other has been nadging over what to get me for Xmas so i've left the laptop on with a browser showing this on eBay for a week as a hint.... I expect to get socks and pants though of course.

 

Which means she's probably ordered one of these instead.   

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WLtoys-L343-RC-Car-1-24-2-4G-2WD-25km-h-Rechargeable-Electric-Monster-truck-Car-/201642887595?hash=item2ef2da49ab:g:2o8AAOSwImRYULzG

 

                John

Just now, johninderby said:

 

Which means she's probably ordered one of these instead.   

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WLtoys-L343-RC-Car-1-24-2-4G-2WD-25km-h-Rechargeable-Electric-Monster-truck-Car-/201642887595?hash=item2ef2da49ab:g:2o8AAOSwImRYULzG

 

                John

 

Quite prob John, though based on last years experience I'll get a sail boat.  

 

 

 

 

1 minute ago, capri-boy said:

 

Quite prob John, though based on last years experience I'll get a sail boat.  

 

 

 

 

 

The possibilities are endless.  

 

           John

Hi, Just some tips from my first outing with the OUTLAW, the front bumper to the chassis is horribly easy to break, to recover the situation I made a simple plate out of ally strip, strengthened the front end by bolting the front gearbox bolts to the bumper mounting. all the hardware takes m3 fixings, in stainless. result seems better. The replacement ally and ally/carbon bits look pretty but pricy. Apart from that even in brushed for its fun. It seems to have similar weaknesses to the yeti reviews I've seen , but the 200 quid difference leaves a lot of room for customisation. 

I've bounced my Outlaw off a couple of fences and a brick wall with no damage to the front bumper. How did you manage to break yours?

 

            John

Not the Bumper but the chassis plate, run into anything square on and the tyres take the hit, this was just a bump on a corner of a paving step, still not quite used to steering wheel stup, more old two stick. I'd be tempted to put the front ally section of either the ally or carbon fibre chassis plate on to the stock chassis.

Anybody got tips on either locking out either diff, the hummer works well with back locked and front free. 

5 hours ago, john roff said:

Not the Bumper but the chassis plate, run into anything square on and the tyres take the hit, this was just a bump on a corner of a paving step, still not quite used to steering wheel stup, more old two stick. I'd be tempted to put the front ally section of either the ally or carbon fibre chassis plate on to the stock chassis.

Anybody got tips on either locking out either diff, the hummer works well with back locked and front free. 

Wedge some Blu-Tack into the diff. Only do the rear, you'll kill the steering with a locked front. 

Roll on end of the day, just been to the stationary cupboard for fresh blue tac, let's see how it does

I'm back in the market for one, following Santa's woeful interpretation of my Xmas list.  I've posted this on John's outlaw thread but it's worth duplicating here.

 

The brushless version is down to £199 at MS:

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-outlaw-1-10-4wd-ultra-4-rtr-buggy-brushless/rc-car-products/406406

 

That's only £70 over the brushed version.  Consider that a suitable combo will eat up most of that £70, you also get a LIPO battery, charger and charging sack with the brushless version too, not to mention the simpler support if anything goes wrong.  For many of us I expect it's still too big a premium - we've LIPO's, charger and sack already, possibly even BL esc and motor or at least the option of choosing what kit you wanted with the spare (or even adding additional) cash saved.  For someone new to the hobby though i'd suggest that sub £200 for a new model, with good parts support and with what's included isn't a bad deal at all.

 

Plus you get the blue one - 

 

 

 

1 minute ago, john roff said:

Roll on end of the day, just been to the stationary cupboard for fresh blue tac, let's see how it does

I've never done it but I know it's a popular mod on here. Best bit is, if you like the result you can go for a more permanent option, or if you don't like it you can remove it easily.

6 minutes ago, capri-boy said:

I'm back in the market for one, following Santa's woeful interpretation of my Xmas list.  I've posted this on John's outlaw thread but it's worth duplicating here.

 

The brushless version is down to £199 at MS:

 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-outlaw-1-10-4wd-ultra-4-rtr-buggy-brushless/rc-car-products/406406

 

That's only £70 over the brushed version.  Consider that a suitable combo will eat up most of that £70, you also get a LIPO battery, charger and charging sack with the brushless version too, not to mention the simpler support if anything goes wrong.  For many of us I expect it's still too big a premium - we've LIPO's, charger and sack already, possibly even BL esc and motor or at least the option of choosing what kit you wanted with the spare (or even adding additional) cash saved.  For someone new to the hobby though i'd suggest that sub £200 for a new model, with good parts support and with what's included isn't a bad deal at all.

 

Plus you get the blue one - 

 

 

 

 

About 50 quid for the GoolRC combo with a 120A ESC but the stock set-up seems not too bad and as you say covered by warrantee.

 

I've ordered the steel rear driveshaft as I'm not sure how the stock plastic one will hold up toma hotter BL system.

 

               John. 

Edited January 3, 2017 by johninderby

9 minutes ago, chewbacca said:

I've never done it but I know it's a popular mod on here. Best bit is, if you like the result you can go for a more permanent option, or if you don't like it you can remove it easily.

 

Going to try some AW grease and see what happens.

 

            John

1 minute ago, johninderby said:

 

About 50 quid for the GoolRC combo with a 120A ESC but the stock set-up seems not too bad and as you say covered by warrantee.

 

I've ordered the steel rear driveshaft as I'm not sure how the stock plastic one will hold up toma hotter BL system.

 

               John. 

 

I'm in two minds what to fit in mine (assuming I can raise a few more $).  My initial thoughts we're the HW wpsc8 / Max10SCT, knowing I could re-purpose either into a heavy 1:10 SCT or light 1:8 buggy on 4S, coupled with a 3660 Tenshock I have sat waiting for a nice SCT to fall in my lap.  Having had a very quick look at the outlaw in the LHS I suspect the Tenshock will tear it to pieces, so i've splurged and have the Castle Sidewinder SVT system on route.  I don't envisage running a light plastic 1:10 on 3S  and assume 3800kv on 2S will provide a nice bump in speed without placing too much demands on the chassis, but like you I shall be looking at the upgraded rear shaft.

 

All the above is also assuming a cheap yeti kit doesn't jump out of the woodwork in the meantime!

1 minute ago, capri-boy said:

 

I'm in two minds what to fit in mine (assuming I can raise a few more $).  My initial thoughts we're the HW wpsc8 / Max10SCT, knowing I could re-purpose either into a heavy 1:10 SCT or light 1:8 buggy on 4S, coupled with a 3660 Tenshock I have sat waiting for a nice SCT to fall in my lap.  Having had a very quick look at the outlaw in the LHS I suspect the Tenshock will tear it to pieces, so i've splurged and have the Castle Sidewinder SVT system on route.  I don't envisage running a light plastic 1:10 on 3S  and assume 3800kv on 2S will provide a nice bump in speed without placing too much demands on the chassis, but like you I shall be looking at the upgraded rear shaft.

 

All the above is also assuming a cheap yeti kit doesn't jump out of the woodwork in the meantime!

I run my Hooligan on 3s with a 60a/3000kv can. 

5 minutes ago, capri-boy said:

 

I'm in two minds what to fit in mine (assuming I can raise a few more $).  My initial thoughts we're the HW wpsc8 / Max10SCT, knowing I could re-purpose either into a heavy 1:10 SCT or light 1:8 buggy on 4S, coupled with a 3660 Tenshock I have sat waiting for a nice SCT to fall in my lap.  Having had a very quick look at the outlaw in the LHS I suspect the Tenshock will tear it to pieces, so i've splurged and have the Castle Sidewinder SVT system on route.  I don't envisage running a light plastic 1:10 on 3S  and assume 3800kv on 2S will provide a nice bump in speed without placing too much demands on the chassis, but like you I shall be looking at the upgraded rear shaft.

 

All the above is also assuming a cheap yeti kit doesn't jump out of the woodwork in the meantime!

 

I'm impressed by the Outlaw so far but don't intend to go to far with the mods. 3800 on 2s will do nicely although waiting to see how the 600BB brushed motor does first. Replacing the links as well as the driveshaft. The brace I've added to the rear shock tower has made a tremendous difference to the stiffness of the chassis. 

 

            John

With all you speed guys, has anybody looked at making it more like a yeti, twin hammers and yeti can both go two speed, but both seem to be kit comes with single, buy parts to convert, anybody come up with a buy bits to make a two speed tranny

Well I've had the brushed one in hand today and in my opinion is this, it's worth its money. Would I buy one, no I would go for another yeti, much more substantial truck all round.

 

size wise, impressive...

 

so, begs the question, am I missing somethin here???

10 minutes ago, big gaz said:

Well I've had the brushed one in hand today and in my opinion is this, it's worth its money. Would I buy one, no I would go for another yeti, much more substantial truck all round.

 

size wise, impressive...

 

so, begs the question, am I missing somethin here???

Probably. But you're a mod so I'll leave it there 

Has anyone got one of these and a Yeti? Be good to have a objective view on it, instead of hear say....

Originally I've been very tempted in the past for a Yeti XL kit - they really do appeal to my liking, almost ordering but then unfortunately having to use that money elsewhere - yet I'm still tempted if I'm honest (prefer larger RC).. but if I'd already own a 1/10 Yeti then no doubt I wouldn't have bought the Outlaw. And now it's also fair to say that now owning the Outlaw I wouldn't buy a 1/10 Yeti. 

Having ran it for a good length of time yesterday off-road properly for the first time, I'm impressed with it. It handled all terrain I put in its path, trying to make it as realistic as the real rock racers have to contend with (as much as what a quarry can offer anyway).. But for me anyway it needs brushless power, the sooner that mount I ordered arrives the better.. Perhaps one or two upgrades to give some personal comfort over a few suspect parts on the rear suspension too but other than that I think it's tip top and I'm happy with it 

37 minutes ago, .AJ. said:

Has anyone got one of these and a Yeti? Be good to have a objective view on it, instead of hear say....

 

Nothin hearsay with my post mate, had a rtr yeti and upgraded suspect bits and was impeccable but lack of use forced its demise, my opinions are of having both in hand and having a poke round of.

 

done the same with a few more of the display models too whilst I'm there.

6 hours ago, johninderby said:

 

Going to try some AW grease and see what happens.

 

            John

Sorry, newbie, what is AW grease. I'm used to gear diffs which are more open, can you fill the diff with thicker grease/oil to stiffen it up.