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Fitted the bits that arrived during the week to the wee Landy And she has put on weight from 819 gramms up to 898 naughty girl

Fitted this little lot To this

Thanks mate, that's what got me! Those bodies are so good looking. I've lowered my blazer high trail with softer springs, sags down quite a bit.

@steephill The body on that looks so good I’ve just been window shopping on MS to look at prices 😂 It’ll be interesting to see how it looks lowered - I think it’ll be a stunner.

@TommyC like @Stormbringer said. You might want to try the firmer springs on the rear of your Defender. The weight of the body makes it sag quite a lot.

Fixed them.. Whole new wing bracket for the 9020 and some new body posts for the 16988A-Pro Changed the whole bracket cause I might go for a wing delete on it. Make it a bit more 'bashable'. The problem is the wing bracket is also what the rear chassis brace is bolted to, it's structural to the rear shock mounts too. So I'm keeping the bashed up old wing mount to have a play with some 'trimming down' on it. See if I can keep the structural parts but lose the rest. Also adjust toe on the 9020 and the 124016 V2

I have the brass rings in the wheels along with brass dif covers and the brass hexes on my 1 but i havnt touched the transmission yet

The tart is wearing some lip stick 🤣🤣🤣

Esc and bullets for my hyper go 14210 so I can change the settings to how I want e.g no reverse, punch etc

Been busy so THE most expensive 1/8 brushed crawler does not have even a hint of grease in the rear axle, and oddly just one rear shock had a preload spacer not the other ! Had the rear axle out and rather than heavy grease i have oiled the internals, better than dry, i have moved the esc/rear shock towers forward to lay the rear shocks down a little (free mod) stripped rear shocks, lubed with green slime grease and fitted a pair of 1mm Orings under each piston all back together and this has had the desired lowering by a couple of mm and fitted high clearance stainless links to rear, still got front to do. I also took tyres of and fitted 60cm of thin solder to each wheel hub, then taped it down, can only help

Put some 1.9s on my F150 high trail.

Fitted some 1.9s to my F150 high trail. Waiting on springs to lower the ride height. I do think they look better than the 2.2s.

My Brown one has arrived all seems good so far, it all works and looks nice and scale, already done a little mod, and the front sticker seems pretty straight

It just wants to climb 😂

Some 1/16th fun up the pump track... ...blessed with some glorious weather for it too 😄

Looking good Gaz Love your crawler course Steephill

It’s all been happening….. now back in the day, Saturday evenings were full of cool programmes, one of my favourites was “Fall Guy” and this is the image that stuck in my head, was from the opening credits and was in the early episodes if i recall?? Now before i get dragged across the coals for this, ive done it my way and to be fair, other than getting a few nice shots outside, i am very happy with it, i have one minor job left to do. The real truck was a GMC, ive used the Ford F150 the decals were from screen print digital on eBay and were excellent throughout. please be gentle with me….. Could really do with a few sets of no. Plates making for this and the others. thanks for looking.

Hey there, long time no update from me, mainly due to being slightly more involved at the drift club now. Following the trend of my two other threads: and We have now the unreasonably priced Yokomo SD 2.0. I won't go into as much detail since i'm writing this after the car is already built (and around 70% there in terms of set up already), but i thought maybe someone is interested in what a slightly higher end kit looks like. Lets get straight into it, here's what i ordered. A Yokomo SD 2.0 (their newest kit, basically one step below their absolute high end), the "purple special edition". Together with a Scale Reflex Gorilla mounting system, and a rear ESC holder - both, of course, also in purple. I'll "reveal" how much i'm into this chassis at the end. Starting the build, it looks like this. Not particularly impressive. In fact, the one thing that struck me throughout the build is how, for the most part, "not special" it is. It just is very solidly cut/built - it's quality over gimmicks. Lets speed through this. A few steps later, you'll arrive at this point. I assembled gearbox and differential already, didn't take pictures since they were straightforward - the differential is a gear diff running 10000cst goop, and it's a four gear transmission (not as in four ratios, but four cogs, two idlers). You can set it up as a three gear transmission, too, but didn't fancy it. The difference is basically one idler added/removed, and it translates into different behaviours of the rear. On a very basic level, four gears promote the rear to squat down, three gears prevent squatting. There's no "better" variant, there's just preference, i personally like my car to squat because it makes it behave more like a real car. More on that in a bit. The transmission as can be seen is open, which is a bit weird, just added maintenance since i have to clean it out of dust every few runs, but here we are. I am currently running the standard gear differential, because i couldn't really get on with the centrifugal differential that i installed in the RDX - it made it harder to control, because i could never really tell when the diff was starting to lock. This is simpler, and while not as trick/competitive, for a sunday drifter like me, much easier to drive consistently. Slide rack installed. My first slide rack. Also the last slide rack i'll ever install. I found a tool, pictured above, that'll help with the "install" of the next one. I don't know if this is particular to this chassis since it's the only one i've ever built with a slide rack, but christ - it genuinely took me 45 minutes to get it situated proper, i.e. not binding and running smooth. Absolutely zero fun and easily the worst "piece" i've ever assembled in any RC. Drove me up the wall. Shock towers etc on, around this point it struck me what kind of gorgeous piece of kit this actually is. Very high quality on all parts. Not as nice to assemble as the plastic RDX, mainly due to the manual being rather old school and not being 100% obvious sometimes, but fitments were 110%. Which brings us to the shocks: These are Yokomo Big Bore shocks, for many people the first upgrade part they ever do on their drifter, regardless of which make. They're reasonably priced (around £80), they're decently pretty (and purple!), they work really well and i've sold them immediately. I basically just assembled them to put them on the rig for a picture, that's it lol. Of course i did build them like my own, with all O-Rings properly greased with 1UP etc. And finally: Not setup yet, also not on the final wheels, just attached what i had for the picture. The shocks look saggy because i didn't add the bladders (the guy who bought them wanted the shocks dry, didn't want to damage the bladders by dry-rubbing them inside the shock), but as i said, i've never driven on these shocks. The front body posts also weren't trimmed at this point, because i had a new shell in the making and hadn't taken measurements yet. It's a pretty rig, no doubt. Now, for electrics, i basically threw my RDX electrics at it, with a few tweaks, as can be seen here. Being an XD10 Pro ESC, D10 10.5t motor, Reve D RS-ST servo and Reve D Revox gyro, paired to my NB4. This is the first stage of setting it up, result being: Decent enough for the girls i am dating, so while i did adjust weight balance a little bit by shifting wires, it was nothing to write home about. You'll also notice that the stupendously expensive Overdose HG3 shocks are mounted to this, despite not being purple. Can't have it all. Now after doing all that, and getting a base line set up, of course i thought that a new motor was required, including a full rewire of the car, throwing everything off again - but the naked wires did annoy me, and the rear wire salad was too much for the shell to handle, so i gave "resoldering ESC side of motor wires" a go, with.. meh results. In my defence, the wires are actually not heat resistant (it's not silicone), so i couldn't do much there. Was my first try, in the future i'll get bloody wire that doesn't melt when you try to solder it (well, the sleeve anyway). The motor was changed to a 13.5t D10 (same motor, less RPM), this time in purple. Which is the current setup still. Now, the shell. It's a shell that i had for absolute ages, started building it either with the RDX or the RMX, can't remember - probably had it close to a year just sitting in the cupboard, finally got around to have it finished. And i absolutely love it. Kustom Kulture of course being the drift club, it's "our" livery. As it sits right there, with the shocks and electrics, it owes me around £1300 now. Which is completely moronic, it's more capable than i'll ever be, but you know.. that's how the hobby goes. I'm happy, can't put a price on that. At least that's what i 'm telling my wife, and myself at night. Lastly, here's how it drove last sunday. Keep in mind, first day with new wiring, motor and shell (which i only noticed afterwards, didn't sit proper, it's fixed now). Just look at how lovely and smooth it runs, as well as how amazing those shocks are. I do love it, i just don't think about the money i paid for it. Much. Thanks for reading: it's a shorter one than the others, but i "had to" build this kit within 6 hours, didn't leave much time to take detail pictures etc.

So it is done 😁