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Calm down, fellas, we don't want this getting locked. Run it! By any means necessary! Drag it behind your car if you have to!

As for quality control i've spent hell of a lot of time checking it out today and i'm impressed, I haven't come across a single loose screw, shocks are fantastic, plastics are thicker in places than my losi and once its running its going to be an absolute beast.

Yep those are stock settings, make sure they are roughly set to these. Check you have a spark by removing the plug, with coil attatched ground the plug onto something metal and pull the started cord a few times, you should clearly see a spark, if not try another plug, if thats dead then it may be a faulty coil pack or it could be set to far away from your flywheel, km's have been known to come with dead coils If you have a spark then with the plug still removed turn your truck upside down and pull the cord 5 or 6 times to clear any unburnt fuel. Refit your plug, make sure theres fuel in the primer bulb on your carb, put choke on and pull the cord 2/3 times and you should hear the engine pop splutter and die, turn choke off and give it another pull, it should start. If not and your not sure what i said with regards to the carb butterfly, get some body to pull on the servo ever so slightly (coz your battery is dead) just a touch, who ever holds the throttle open tell them to just hold the throttle in one position and do not move or pump the throttle just hold it steady why you pull the start cord just incase your unsure of the idle setting, hopefully this works and if not something is a miss. I hope you get it started bud

I noticed the differences too but thought better to keep quiet, didn't want anyone thinking I was a Landy nerd..... Lmao

I cannot agree with that. If I twist my HT lead slightly it doesn't line up. Carb settings will vary from carb to carb and engine to engine. My car couldn't start on factory needle settings, once tweaked a bit, fires 1st time every time now. A new engine also has oil to keep the engine fresh, sometimes making the first start difficult. If the car has fuel (which it does) has spark (which it does) and air it will start. So it must be a tuning error. Unless something drastic is wrong with it, it will start. RC Modelz has already publicly offered support if he can't get it started. So before quality control is blamed, facts should be proven first. Well done to RC Modelz for offering support with out being asked. Does HPI do that to? Why test a battery sealed in its box? lol. That's factory error, not RC modelz quality control.

As you shouldn't part charge a battery we have a bunch of batteries instock that we use to test servos if the battery on the car is dead

its not twice the price you are trying to be negative and its not needed also if you expect every rtr to be perfect out of the box you need to get another hobby

I wouldn't be Quick to blame the "quality control"? My KM wouldn't start at all when I got it. I reset needles to factory. Still no start. I Diagnosed the situation of LSN sorted it and now it starts on the button..... Was the failing to start because of quality control? The people who can talk about quality control on the X2 are the ones who have the X2 in front of them. The HT lead wasn't a problem, or "quality control" its how they are made. My Losi's HT lead did the same. As with anything there will be human mistakes at time. Some people are still learning about 2 strokes including myself.

Dbxl was but as soon as the needles and filter were sorted it started on the 4th or 5th pull, i'm not put off. Messing around today has given me the chance to have a good look at it and i've no real concerns.

Snap on

My Losi XXCR Kinwald. It was a mess when i got it, never raced, little use but had wacked a kerb at some point. Afew new bits including a shock rebuild and new body sorted it out. There is almost a complete conversion to alloy screws, but i left afew out where i thought they might get too stressed and snap. Motor is an unused Orion GT3 turbo. Currently a shelf queen just needs a servo and receiver. Desperately need some white wheels. im currently getting on with my LOSI JRXS typeR Drift build which was started and then sat around for a while. Based on a VERY badly built kit (when i got it), i stripped it down to assess what needed replacing and it turned out to be rather alot. Has been a bit of a mission getting the bits together but its all there now. Would probably have been cheaper and easier just to buy a drifter, but to me that kind of misses the point. I now find myself thinking of the next challenge to restore instead of actualy taking them out and using them! Whatever the next one is, it will be another Losi.

Its called sarcasm. Let's just hope that nothing is wrong with the engine and he gets it started [emoji3] I enjoyed the light hearted argument. Back on topic [emoji106]

Lee if you dont get it started just give me a call you will find our number on your invoice. We will get it sorted if you dont.

Or old people Or Small children.

Sounds like your finding it hard to hold back from saying"I told you so". At 700 quid, The problems people had with the Savage Octane should not be an issue, Every car has an issue of some sort, Especially the first versions, The original Baja had a ropey steering servo and rear tyres made from old condoms, And a gearbox bearing missing, Didn't MCD go through a number of versions with the same chocolate diffs, Doesn't the DBXL at 700 quid come with an engine that's probably sourced from the same factory as the King Motor, At leased the KM is not a 2 bolt.

I will do. The carbon plate under the chassis is actually a 3mm thick (carbon look) plastic skid plate that runs the full length of the car to protect the underneath. I'll get a pic of it tomorrow for you's!

Been messing around with my WR8 and have moved the motor and centre diff back on the chassis aswell as the battery to put a little more weight towards the rear. This meant moving the esc and receiver box forward to make a better balanced chassis. Also installed an HPI SF20w servo to replace my ever slowing standard servo. Tested in on sunday whilst racing a couple of mates with WR8's and the back end is alot more stable in higher speed corners and doesnt seem to be so nose heavy over jumps and braking.

Well, it's simple enough.. a thread for people to post photos in! From starting out to trying to go pro - anything can go in here! Mobile phones to compacts to SLRs - even old film scanned in! I think it's fair to say there needs to be a few guidelines for this, as I see it they should be - 1) YOU took the picture, no "LOOK WHAT I FOUND ON GOOGLE LULZ" or stealing from other people. Photographers really dont like it, and there's the Funnies forum for lolcat pictures. 2) NOT endless RC pictures - there's the Show Off gallery for that! 3) NOT 7 pictures of exactly the same thing, but everrrrr so slightly different! 4) NO laying into other peoples work/them personally! If they say comments are welcome, then comment, but nothing aggressive. Factual comment and stating of opinion, but no "you're wrong" etc please! There's a reasonable chance this thread will fail like Guy Ritchies career, but hey-ho! It's worth a shot! Flickr and Photobucket and ImageShack are probably the best hosting (imageshack and photobucket are the best free options) - and try to link to downsized images in the thread with a link to a higher resolution image! There seems to be a fair bit of interest in photography here so let's try and get the creative juices flowing!

Just gave this a quik spin up whilst holding it/resting it on one arm and it almost flipped out my hand and smashed the top of the cooker. .....lol...that wouldn't of been good. .This is gonna b awesome on 6s!!...definitely a lot better now it's got a 150esc and a proper 2200kv truggy motor in it. ....

like gazlam said but i would`nt wash the carb with anything but carb cleaner

You would not really want the same spring/damping action for front and rear (again I can not be much help)......but...you have to set it up for the weight and power and how you use it....the settings that would be ideal for one surface will be very different to another surface....and if you change the tyres then it will be different again... The front in most cases will have softer springs and damping....because of the weight distribution...but this is not a rule. I have always found on-road to be far easier to set up than off-road....and yes, the Hyper is a tank no matter what is powering it.

Yep thats the ideal plug and what should be fitted. So re-set your carb back to stock settings, remove and clean plug. Take airfilter off and squeeze in some kitchen roll to make sure its not been oiled to death. Turn up idle screw and see if it starts, Dont go mad its not a yo-yo just 5 or 6 pulls. Have a look on youtube for starting videos just to give you more idea

I'm sure it will be something simple, thanks.

Yes Lee they are so order a few :-)

What plug is fitted ?? CMR7H is what you need . Also have you had the air filter off to make sure its not dripping in oil ?? Yes stock settings are L 1,1/4 H 1,1/2

Very helpful thanks.

I've tried 2 NGK spark plugs today. When I searched online I was looking for km 30.5cc needle settings they all said high 1 1/2 and low 1 1/4. i'm sure it's something like this causing it.

Iistening to others, like evo steve, top engine tunner, paying attention to others that do it for a living is what makes somebody a expert, not spitting your dummy out when proved wrong.

Now your just talking rubbish oho, simple as that fella.

If HPI can't keep up the 'quality control' with the amount of models they sell, then they either shouldn't sell such a high volume for the profit, or employ more staff.

Few little sample clips of my stampede wearing a 360 camera mount for my GoPro ..Shame about the sun i shall have to invest in a filter in future

The fuel line you have should be adequate...but if it needs replacing then there is no point to have a larger bore line than the nipples at either end....think the nipples are somewhere around 2mm (will check later).

blue point. ....Mac. ....facom.....

100 Stanley blades, circle cutter, tools for brass etched bits, scrt10 spares and some tiny glass bottles for a Xmas gift I'm making.....

tip the car upside down with the plug out and give it a few pulls. replace plug and try again

It's worth going for the right. To do so, you need to cut off the mounting lugs from the servo plate and reverse the bell cranks.

When I was using thick wires I used bullet connector's.. Found these to be easy to solder and take apart etc.

I'm Swapping all my gear over this Xmas, 5 escs & about 7 lipos, I'm sick of struggling with XT90s there so tight you wouldn't belive, now I need to decide on genuine HK xt60s or logic rc deans, I'm swaying to XTs as my batts have huge 8agw on them & deans will be very tricky to solder. Anyone got any thoughts?

Couldn't agree more with this!

ok the number on a capacitor have a different meaning to them. lets take your capacitor, 16V @ 330uF we all know what volts are, ie 5v - 6v-12v-24v-48v volts are voltage. now this second number is FARADS.its a measurement of capacity capacitance A farad is a large number for electronics ( not may things want a whole farad of energy ( charge/capacity) so we us smaller numbers. your capacitor is a 330 micro farad and is denoted 330uF, the U is micro and the F is farad, so we measuring in micro farads. some capacitor may have something different, say 4700nF ( the N denote nano the F denotes farad ). now here is what happens to the esc and that capacitor. your battery is plugged in and the esc wakes up, the current flows into the esc and fills up the capacitor (think of it as a second battery but clever) now we have all had an RC car where you punch the throttle and there is that microsecond lag, between your trigger hammer and the full beans to the motor. because your motor is trying to take the MAXIMUM current available to it, the battery voltage droops a tad. Some times this voltage droop is called sag or voltage sag. and it can sometimes cause an esc to go into failsafe. ( your esc measure voltage so a droop sag may be so low the esc shuts down) Now i add a 2uf 16v capacitor, for every 2amps put through the capacitor the voltage is increased by 1v, so if we pull 10amps to the motor through the capacitor, we also gain 5 volts. now we hammer the throttle trigger and our battery says by 4 volts , but because we have a capacitor thats charged we can draw lots of amps through it and gain a little voltage jump. our battery even though its being drained hard and fast does not have that voltage sag, so our esc does not shutdown or we get cogging on our brushless systems/ magic smoke so yours is a 16v 330 micro farad capacitor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farad wiki link above to denotation of Farad, its a handy thing to know about.

Sorry for lack of updates but life and work has gotten in the way. Progress should continue later this week

Up to Medics 4th build vid and I do like the drive train design on this. Centre transmission all steel gears and looks like a 4 gear setup (middle isn't an idler.. more reduction in centre allow smaller diff. ratio in axles). Nice single screw spur cover, double flats on outputs. Slipper looks a bit fiddly. Solid locker / spur and pinion bolted directly to drive shaft is neat too. Nice pin retention. The lower ration diff. gives a smaller pumpkin too and I like solid axle housings instead of the split SCX10 ones. The pinion eating worries me but sounds like it is fixable and I have always had to shim axial / scout ones once decent power was going through them. Really hoping these take off and we get as many after market options as there are now for the Axials. Also hoping that you can buy axles / transmission separately or that breakers start splitting them as I'd love to build a scaler on this drive train.

A quick one from today Etta Jeanne II by Harry Measures, on Flickr

on my wanted list. my battery was bad, but good old Wex replaced it with two spares for me free of charge, been to cold to use the camera and the wildlife wont play ball and visit the garden. But i upgraded the home made bird feeder to a propper bird house table, bigger platform = more food choice = more birds was the thinking.

Bump

Finally got my hands on a MX1 shell

Here's what I can get to at the moment: Re Re Holiday Buggy, featuring hobbywing 60a wp esc and 13t can, metal geared servo, absima rear shocks, Junfac fronts, 'carbon fibre' dashboard and a set of Dyna Blaster road wheels. The shell is pretty beaten, cos I use it. A LOT! The Fox collection (bar one vintage project in the loft) March BMW, early 70's iirc, in excellent condition for year, will be fettled for the shelf: A vintage Wild One with plasticard body, ally front bumper etc...NOT done by me, I hasten to add...it gives me something to aim for and better (hopefully!!) Shelf only: Vintage Audi Quattro, well, the almost complete one, i have a total shed in a box, the thinking being from two, shall come one runner...in time Lives next to a TT01E XB Lancia....which is in no way retro or re re.. And lastly for now, the King Blackfoots - etronix probe WP 15 esc and firebolt 15t cans, vintage acoms steering servos, absima shocks all round. Future plans include fitting axial led controllers and lights, and full body resprays....our lasses has the wrapped bonnet to cover a huge crack she put in it...

A shot i got at sunset,Bluebell Hill in Kent..Mick.