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Was planning on going bashing but missus decided to give birth with no chance of making it to hospital so had to deliver that

Gave it it's first outdoor run:

Spanked it. Hard!

Congratulations. What time you going out bashing?

Congratulations!! Need to celebrate - buy a new RC!! Al.

I drove mine through a puddle to clean it, then sprayed gt85 all over! Treated it..

Well to go with the new wheels and tyres thought id go up in the world with a lift kit. Its about 3 inches taller than standard now and gives the bigger tyres a bit more room for off roading So seeing as the rain kept off today i got the Springs all fitted. 4 hours, Not bad for working on my own with basic tools. Seeing as i said i didnt want to lift my D2 a few pages back im quite happy with how it looks.

Unpacked some stuff into the temporary mancave, unearthed a couple of shelfers, ordered a new HB as a new shell was urgently needed and you can never have too many spares for a favourite basher.. ......especially when the kerb outside your new house is much more angled than you thought! Quick bash around the garden/drive/crescent with the HB, felt good to be driving again

how old is the engine? there are 3 possibilities here. 1. your engine is too lean, it getting too hot and shutting off because the fuel is vapourizing before it is meant to, could also be causing alot of wear on the parts 2. your engine is coming to the end of its life, as the piston and liner expand from the heat the compression drops abit, normaly this is fine and the engine can handle it but as it gets used and worn this compression drop gets bigger, eventually the compression drops so much that it can no longer burn the fuel and so it dies. once the engine cools down you have compression again which is why it can start up 3. pressure line from exhaust to fuel tank is blocked, as the fuel is used a vacuum forms until the engine can't pull fuel any longer and so cuts out, the clue with this is the engine often leans out slowly which can end up disguising it as option 1 above. given what you have said i would say number 1 is most likely, easy way to tell is to return thecarb/needle setting to factory/break in, this will at least rule out one of the above options

Its been a while since I have had a fresh project to get my teeth into and with winter coming up there no better time than to start. Project Outline: I get my RC buzz now from making stuff go super fast, but that always comes at a price of a car that is a one trick pony. So It got me thinking .... how can I go fast and still have something I can thrash about dirt tracks and carparks etc. After having a ponder I decided I wanted to build a rally cross car. Something that will go over 100Mph and slide sideways on dirt for as long as I want it too. The easiest option would be to buy a TC chassis and one of the many replica bodies available on the market, but easy isn't fun and small chassis's aren't good for chucking ridiculous amounts of power at, nor are they that good for taking a beating when things go a little pear shaped. So with the basis of the project lined up it was time to start considering the various options available on the market. It didn't have to be a super agile racing thoroughbred, parts needed to be easily available and at sensible prices. The most important requirement was it needed a drive line strong enough to take 8 cells of lipo insanity ........ yes that's 8 cells .....muhahahahaha. About the Chassis being used: My search took me to the Hyper GT from Hobao (Distributed by CML), built off the solid Hyper SS franchise and with the parts availability and support that would keep me parts when they need replacing. I have to admit out of a lot of shells on the market I have taken a liking to the design of the Hyper GT. Out of the box the chassis is not laid out for a overkill power system, but that's where the "project" comes into it. Modifications to the stock chassis will include: Saddle lipo trays (similar to what castle did with their early brushless conversions - Trays built into chassis guards) Redesign of the motor mount for relocation of motor to allow space for the above lipo trays New ESC mount for MGM 25035-3 Reinforce the body with a purpose built rollcage /nerfbar configuration to reduce flex at high speed. I'm sure there will be other challenges as I go though the project but for now those are are the immediate challenges. About the Electronics being used: ESC For me the controller of choice is an MGM X2 Series in this case a 25035-3 which has had additional waterproofing as I want to use this all year round and additional power caps fitted to cope with the extra length of wires a saddle pack arrangement produces. The ESC can run at a constant current of 250A and can work with a input voltage of up to 35V. Motor For now I will be using my old trusty 1515 2200kv can which is fitted with ABEC 7 ceramic bearings. Once I am further through the project a better daily KV will be something in the 1600-1800KV range. Steering Servo As I plan to run all year round the sensible choice was a waterproof servo, The Savox 1210SG while being waterproof it doesnt sacrifice power at an impressive 20KG. I've always had great success with savox servos and Im yet to break one even with all the crazy stuff I have done with my cars over the years. (I hope I haven't just jinxed that as I have had a gear set for my 1256tg in reserve for over 3 years) Radio Gear Ive been using a Spectrum DX3R pro for what seems like forever now and when paired with Spectrum's MR3000 rx I get range than is beyond my sight. Being a marine receiver it has the added benefit of being 100% waterproof, not only that is its the same footprint as their micro receivers which is a bonus. Lipos Currently I will just be using what I have available and they are 2 x 5000mAh Turnigy Nanotech 65-130, I don't have a lot of faith in their advertised power output but they are good for 250A so thats perfect for this project. I plan in investing in some SMC lipos down the line, or I may go another route. Either way I will do a write up on the differences when I get that far. So the other day a nice box arrives from CML with the Hyper GT and servo, It felt like Christmas ......... I cant help it I always get excited about a new project. HoBao Hyper GT: First Impressions (unboxing) First impressions going over the car are really impressive, gone are e-clip hinge pins (I really hate those), so far I'm yet to find a single eclip thats always a promising sign in my books. The shocks are sturdy and so much prettier than the previous Hyper 7 shocks. Although the Hyper GT shares the same chassis as the SS buggy the shocks are shorter as you don't need so much additional travel for a on road car, It also helps the body sit lower on the chassis. Overall the car feels nice and sturdy the arms look like they should stand up to a fair amount of abuse. The shock toers feel nice and chunky and the finish is good. Hinge pin plates appear to be stamped but to be fair they look strong enough and are made well. they are fitted with multi position blocks so you can alter the toe and caster angles. Wheels and tyres come unglued which is a huge bonus as that means they can be taped to help deal with high power systems. With this project I will be using GRP tyres as I know from previous experience they are good for over 110Mph. That said I will be taping these up and running them to how well they perform out of the box, I really like the fact that they come with a low profile foam insert to help keep the rotational forces as low as possible. In the box you also get all the body accessories: wing, wing mirrors, body clips, foam donuts for the body posts (I'm very impressed these were included in the kit) It might not sound like much but there is nothing more annoying that a body shell cluttering down the road. Also included is a simple tool kit, you can never have enough allen keys and nut wrenches in this hobby, I like the fact that the Hobao wrench also has the turnbuckle wrenches cut out of its body. So after loosely fitting the tyres to the rims and putting the wing on the body to get an idea of what it looks like in the flesh I ended up with this: Some more pictures of the chassis and body in better light and after fitting GRP's, servo and motor into place: Now for a couple of pics with the body: The first hurdle to over come will be how to make the smaller GRPs not look so lost in the precut arches of the body. I'm sure I can print some kind of wheel arch to help with that. The rear wheels are a bit lost inside the body, but thankfully HoBao do a range of extended 17mm hubs. (i only have +2mm fitted currently, but im hoping to try both the +4mm and +6mm to get a better fit to the body. But I have to admit its going to be one good looking RC once its finished, that's if the early impressions are anything to go by. That's it for now, but more updates will follow soon

Broken record time .... Just fed up of being part of the 25% with headlamps on when its still dark in the mornings, and getting there in the evenings ... never mind dull days .. Daytime LED's work quite well - fair enough. There are dumb ****s with grey / black / dark coloured cars and obviously X-Ray vision ... I'm flashing at some, and just get a stupid look .. ! REALLY annoys me!! Turn the lights on!! Simples! Al.

Just paint and chrome to go

This a good idea, lol Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk

I use these 2s in one 3s in another and so on little label on the top and store them in a plastic box http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__49498__Turnigy_Fire_Resistant_LiPoly_Battery_Case_220x115x120mm_Gray_Black_1pc_.html

Hi all. New member here. I'm off work at the moment due to a motorbike accident. ( Not my fault ) So I've got a lot of spare time on my hands. Been told about 6-8 months recovery time. Anyway I've been building Tamiya models for years. ( I'm 51 ) But this is my first RC. I picked a Midnight Pumpkin and think it is fantastic, took about 2 days to build and is completely standard, even running plastic bearings. I've had it out for 2 runs. Flattening the battery both times and think it's the best fun I've had for age's. Already ordered a 4600 battery as the 1800 just doesn't last long enough. Hopefully here's a couple of pic's. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/30824-wp-20141108-004/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/30823-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/30822-/

branded bags are the same as normal ones. i use bags in a ammo tin.

Cheers buddy it's been a long time coming together just waiting for the last few bits to land. Looking forward to seeing your 8ight t. Tempted by one of those next

i use these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__1114__85__Batteries_Accessories-Lipo_Safe_Bags.html

What about a quality street tin? Hmmmm....quality streets...

I've just checked the air filter and..... its soaked, dripping as I took it off. I've never have my nitro's like this.

Sometimes being single has it's advantages...................................................................

Oh, is this an RC forum?

Took it bashing and it didnt break. Its got a new home for tonight.

same happened to me with throttle and steering servo's and got a replacement from them but in the meantime i purchased a rhino HD servo and a power HD for throttle never had a problem after that Oh and if you ever need a hand with your Blackout let me know i can strip and rebuild them with my eyes closed Had mine for 2 years so I'm well used to them

just a big thanks guy`s it really helps right now and if i do need anything i know were to goo

That looks like it's been running lean Reset your carb back to factory settings and try again What oil mix ratio are you running ?

Thank you for all your input i've taken bits from what everyone has said, including deafty and it's true i may not appreciate the benefit of a top spec servo so after reading up on lots of specs and vfm i've ordered a savox 1267 as it runs at 21kg of torque and 0.09sec which makes it incredible value as they were on offer at

That what I run in my Sworkz BE1, been perfect so far

I have gone with a xpert rc 4531 servo on steering for my 3.0 T. Quality is really nice and will see how it performs when running the losi.

I have had a break since my last build the 5b but I feel like opening the door to my man cave now. Losi 3.0 Truggy with some hopups to build. Just ordered myself a Tamiya Egress nostalgic reasons, I always lusted after one and could never afford it back then. Then some 5th scale love for my other Losi and another 5th scale project has sneaked in lol. It's time to start building

Rule 1 of RC speeds: When a manufacturer claims a speed figure....it is ususally PR rubbish. It generally requires gearing that makes the car undriveable, or else things have been modified that they willforget to tell you. Rule 2 of RC speeds: When other people claim a top speed for an RC, it's rubbish unless they have proper gear to measure it with. 'My car does 70mph easy..... yeah sure. What cliff did it fall off to do that To get a real speed, go to an event where they have proper timing gear to measure things. So....really....forget the 'how fast' thing. Any half decent brushless truxk will go fast enough to be fun. Too fast just isn't controllable on anything but smooth surfaces. Now...cars.... Kyosho make some great cars. There entrance level stuff isn't briliant, but it's OK. The big issue in the UK is spares support. Can be a real problem. Snap something in a silly mishap, and you could wait weeks to get what you need. The FTX Carnage is a good starter car, but it's a bit fragile when abused. ~If you are on a tight budget, it's fine. Nothing wrong with a Slash...very good cars ... but a

R8 Moslar with pn racing interchangeable mount Bodys fit well into side clip no fuss but clear to see sits too high on this chassis so side clips require raising in body. So got about shortening servo an motor lead, had quick test on pool table (hear some clicking when pinning thottle so need to shim diffs) will have some fun with it once source front springs

Like to use one of my mini z body so set chassis to 98mm an extended spur added an sametime slipped in spare atomic ball diff at front

had st mini while ago ran nova rossi 12 in it, heres thread but host server gone an so has me pics http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/92897-hyper-mini-st-project/ Only pics could find are of E conversion

You'll have to wait and see !. Hopefully I'll get it painted this week, get the esc soldered and mounted and add the finishing touches

^Zip-ties and duct tape? Congrats!

i normaly go to this site if i want to know something http://www.competitionx.com/rc-tuning-shocks/

Chassis review cont. I have managed to dedicate some RC time to the project today, my current task is to strip the chassis down in prep to measure parts prior to designing some new parts to take the chassis help me cram in 8 cells of lipo insanity. While I'm going through the car bit by bit I will be continuing to write up my review of the chassis. Lipo Tray Ok so its not the most exciting part of a RC car but its a very important to get it right. HoBao have done a pretty decent job of designing their tray. Its nice, simple and sturdy. If I had one tiny grumble I would personally like a longer tray for fitting soft case lipos. This doesn't mean soft case packs wont fit it just means you will need to be more savy when choosing a lipo. From what I have found is the tray is optimised for fitting 2 x 2cell hard case packs (race packs) when staked up the tray is designed to stagger the packs for easy access to the bullets. Tip: When mounting 2 hard case lipos on top of each other use a strip of non slip material between the cells. This will reduce the chance of the upper cell sliding over and potentially damaging the bullets of the lower case in the event of a heavy impact with the ground or other immoveable objects. I dug out one of my 4cell 5000mAh nano tech packs but unfortunately it was a tiny bit too long. That said you could be clever and carefully trim a section of the front of the tray without removing the edge to fit a longer lipo in the tray. This is a 5000mAh 65-130c nanotech lipo laid on the tray: As you can see from the pic above tiny amount of trimming and it should fit like a glove. Tray internal dimensions: 140mm long (you could gain an extra 10mm with some delicate trimming) x 48mm wide x 34mm to 13mm deep sides Brushless Motor Mount Normally with brushless RCs you tend to get a pathetic excuse for a motor mount that looks like it has been chucked together with no thought in the design. Its not uncommon to have very restricted gearing or find it difficult to access the pinion. I'm pleased to say for the first time ever I'm actually impressed with a stock motor mount. Key points: The mount is a beefy 10mm thick on the motor side and is milled down to 9mm over the diff half. The motor is attached to a plate and that plate can be slid up and down to allow a maximum pinion size of 24t (with that gearing its tall enough to make any off the shelf 150A ESC hot under the collar so to speak) Picture below shows 22t pinion fitted ( I tried a 26 but that was too large to mesh) O-ring inset into the bearing holder on the diff half, this provides a nice firm hold of the centre diff when fitted. Ergonomic design, 2 screws located on top of the mount to adjust the mesh, remove these 2 screws to remove the motor from the chassis for cleaning. Mounted to the chassis with 3 M4 bolts, this thing is not going anywhere once bolted to the chassis. Motor mount close up - Showing oring, and mount adjuster The above picture shows the mount fitted with a 22t pinion Gearing Stock Spur is a 48t metal spur on the hyper GT. I will be looking around for a smaller spur this has 2 benefits; you can go faster and fit a larger pinion without modifying the stock motor mount. I'm hoping I will be able to find a 44t or there about that will fit, I'm fairly confident there is at least a 46t option on the market. Well I decided to do a bit of digging online. I have discovered that the Hyper 9 has an option of a 40T spur, but looking at the part compared to the Hyper 7/ss/gt diff the cup is a different design so that is out of the question. However It makes me wonder if its possible to fit a hyper 9 centre diff to maximise the off the shelf gearing options. I plan to use a 30-35 tooth pinion for high speed runs so having a small supur on the centre diff would be a huge bonus. I think its worth seeing if I can get hold of a hyper 9 diff to see if its compatible with the chassis, I will update this post as and when I find one and most importantly I can answer the question "does it fit" Well that's it for now, I have a huge list of parts to sketch out while I wait on a few parts to arrive to sort a couple of issues highlighted in the first post. I will continue my review of the remaining chassis features upon my next update. In the meantime here is a sneaky picture of a layout I have in mind for the lipos/motor:

Rusty screw? Where have they been storing the radios? I found a suitable die-cast enclosure that fits the tank perfectly and will hold a Visaton FRS 8 speaker. Should be just a little better. John

Those two options are smaller than 1/8 buggy tyres you want the ABSIMA LP BUGGY SET I would post a link but can't other than the try looking at 1/8 gt wheels sweep rc in USA are good

I'm surprised it fits did you have trouble loading it??

Unboxed it:

Well that went well. Kids LOVED it. They were all very enthusiastic with the throttle and I have my work cut out for me with getting the broken cars fixed for next week but it was so worth it. The kids had no idea how fast they could go or how to control them but by the end of the session some of them were getting the hang of it. I'm gonna dial down the endpoint a on the throttle a bit next week. Assuming I can get the cars fixed in time

My daughters classroom this afternoon :-)

After reading some of these I don't feel bad about eating a whole tub of Ben and Jerry's in one sitting.

I'll have a tray of 12 Yorkshires with a Sunday Roast

A girl called Chelsea on a 18-30's in Magaluf lol

Just a hint, QED make a slim cable for such installs. Skirting boards and door frames are your friends in such situations ime, they're quite well hidden if you can be discrete. If all else fails, build a lego layer around with the cable hidden within

It's eztec (as on the chassis, not ez-tech), who make cheap, toy grade stuff. Rrp for current offerings is thirty to forty five quid on eBay. Come with 6v or 9.6v unique shaped packs and a prebound 27/40mhz tx Fit for the bin, with immediate effect.