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Ahh....the Hyper 7 v the ACME Condor. One of those classic battles. Like the Lion v the Kipper, or the Great white shark v the Tadpole. The Hyper 7 goes better, has far better parts support, is more durable and is just better in every way you could possibly compare two cars. Yes, it costs more....but it's worth it.

Got round to spraying the Hauler shell.Took a risk with this one and used some spraypaint i'm unfamiliar with. Result: Totally chuffed to bits

I made a bracket for the belly to mount to the rear section, its made from 1/4 inch alum bar , also mounted the rear bumper , its from the king hauler kit

Few weeks ago I bought a junkyard savvy. It was a complete mess, but the bloke obviously bashed this thing to death and then some. It actually came with a brand new engine and I had the old one with it too. The piston and sleeve in the old one was still in v-good condition, I may try and mod it. After a bit of tinkering, lots of cleaning, and a load of spares( hinge pins, wheels, shell, shocks and braces and a couple servos among other things from my other savage )I finished it yesterday. And here is my flock.

Daily dose for the day

herea lowboy I just finished she is 46 inches long. 7 inches wide, made from alum and plastic the goose is a manual working

I was looking to do something more towards a show then work trailer. rc4wd sells black and red blank rails this will be a tandem with rear flip axle, also will have a flip extension goose neck . will be making a jeep / dollie too

For sale: Axial ax10 Ridgecrest with some upgrades. Has topcad alloy upgraded: shocks with 300cst oil and shock socks Front steering linkage Chassis linkage Wheel hubs Lower suspension link mounts C hub carrier Rear lockouts?( can't remember name) Topcad 2.2 beadlocks & tyres Jazrider steering knuckle All electronics etc are standard, also comes with all the standard removed parts/wheels/part tree /shell etc plus original box. Just haven't got the time to use it. Only used about 10 times but does have scratches from use and is missing 2 screws on the rear lockouts?? But runs like new Looking for

Wow! If you've seen the Death Race films you'll recognize this Frankenstein replica! It's a boat but still amazing Well... that's a nice... car....

Ill start the bidding off at a fiver?

Took the rs4 for a 'spin' round the house. Hugely entertaining, definitely require much more room tho, quite a big car for a 'micro'

Yeah Thats what I have to be careful with. This is a quote from their BT Infinity 2 Package

My wraith

Finally finished rebuilding my baja

Carefully fold them back into place and wrap the packs in duct tape to ensure they stay put. That's what I'd do.

Stampede all sorted and ready for next run, thanks Tony for trusting me with you Hubson, I only crashed it the once lol.

Excellent bash. Just going through some of the videos and found footage of Fraggs' unfortunate meeting with a ditch while retrieving the Hubsan

Nice work bud! The trailer looks sweet. Smaller wheels will look ace.

That's bonkers, someone must know the answer! When you do figure it out, tell the whole world about it! Start your own website about it! Spread the word! I don't know if you NEED a trade account, but the prices are probably better if you have one.

You need a 5mil nut for the end

Got these today.

No idea what power output that headkit will produce. It just says it's been ported.... but not by who, or what exactly has been done. If you have a Zenoah engine..it will fit straight on. If you have a CY motor....it tells you what you have to do. As far as bolt on bits for your car goes....they are all parts for an FG....so will bolt on. I have no idea on the spec of your car or what you have already done.....so it's hard to comment on whether they are 'right' for you. That's a personal choice. For me...I found front cable brakes to be awful on the Monster I had. Constant messing about with adjusting and unless set up evenly...very poor at stopping. Needed a good servo too. Why not start your own thread though, rather than hijacking someone else's? Your question was unrelated to the original question. It's like walking up to two guys in the street talking about football and talking about the price of whale blubber.

Winpc-nc or whatever came with it is very limited in capability, but is good for testing the machine manually once it's built. You open up a drawing from autocad or solidworks, set zero on the z axis and it runs so very simple but limited to engraving etc so I don't use it. What I use takes a few hours to read online manuals for the basics and some youtube videos helped too, but is mainly a case of getting used to what buttons do but is very simple once used to where the buttons are, no more complicated than using microsoft office. You open a drawing from autocad into DolphinCAD and then specify what lines are for cutting around or drilling, it takes a few clicks for each line or hole. You can also use this program for drawing but autocad and draftsight are much easier to use for drawing. After this you click a button that takes you into DolphinCAM where you input what tools you want to use or load a toolfile that has previously been saved, then select lines and specify if you cut around, on or inside them, drill holes. From this you can specify feedrates, cut depths, ramping and a good range of other options about cutting. It also tells you how long it will take to cut aswell as being able to open a simulation to see what it will look like when cutting and if theresany clearance issues. After this you convert the toolpath file into a format for the machine which is Mach3 in this case, open the nc file in Mach3, line the material up with where you are cutting and push go. All in if you were to cut a 50mm square it would take less than 5minutes to import the drawing, convert it to a toolpath and push go. More complicated parts will just take more time. As it's all hobby level software it's got good features but still simple to use for novices and there's plenty of help on dedicated cnc sites. I'll take some screenshots soon to show importing a drawing to pushing go.

working on the flip extension, works really good, don't let the plastic fool you, its wrapped arround solid 1/4 inch alum bar. also instead of wooden planks, I went with a antislip tape, really nice stuff

Just give it a coat of matt sand paint, then it will blend in and won;t pop out as much. It's only because it's clashing with the overall theme.

Cheers for that, as I'd just swapped to a far larger motor I was head-scratching as to why it had happened. Was I to blame the diff or the new motor. I think it probably was diff failure, I've had problems in the past with threadlock not holding screws into ally cups. BTW, getting the diff out is a mission! Yes, it was my first go, but that's not an easy diff to get out. It actually makes the Maxx arrangement look easy!

couple of my scalers, although the hilux is long gone now....

I'll start with the most mind blowing scale Camper mounted to a Tamiya M04 chassis

About time this got moved from crawlers to scale builds It's really starting to take shape and get the 'feel' with all the bits hung/bolted/strapped on. With the twin Lewis mounts and the 50 cal on the front, it will look a treat. Though from what I can gather, they swapped the guns around and there was no hard and fast rule. I found this pic on a modelling site: http://www.sas1946.com/main/index.php?topic=16521.0 Also.... the can on the front....It's a water condenser for the radiator. Water Condenser - This simple yet ingenious device invented by LRDG officer Ralph Bagnold in the 1920's quickly became a standard piece of equipment for car engines, thus not only enabling the desert patrols to use their vehicles in extreme temperatures, but also greatly contributing to the reliability of car engines in general: As opposed to earlier water cooling systems which allowed boiling water to evaporate through a vent on top of the radiator, Bagnold simply placed a pipe on top of that vent, collecting all the steam and directing it to an external container where it condensed back to water. As the engine cooled, pressure in the radiator would drop and the water from the external container would be sucked back into the cooling system.

Seen nothing and the guy in my local shop bless him had no idea what I was talking about bless him

I made a Ofna/DM1 go over 110Mph and It still cost less than a X01 and I had better quality electrics for that money too. But like most things If you want to buy one go for it. Even bring it along to the big ROSSA/MSUK meet in august and run it through the speed traps

added the cover of the rear heres a view of the hinges im using shocks here, buy you can use real hydraulics or actuactors here the trailer is done

heres the gooseneck folded down started to add more planking made the front ramps added the sides to the rear made the rear bumper

next I wanted to see how high I need to make this sit with a no load . I use 2x channel to sit under the belly . then I used a dollie up front, same as truck. leveled it out I cut the hinges for the fold down

all painted up, she is about 99% complete

I got this one off eBay as its in the UK http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290938607917 Rob

Go for a 2.4ghz system their cheap as chips now days look on eBay for the flysky gt3c best budget radio on the market

If you want to get to know your car...go to the HPI website, and download the Baja SS manual. The SS is a kit form car, and it shows you how each section goes together. Essential reference for any Baja owner.

theyre not the best but theyre not the worst they may be plastic but the plastic is quite strong tt01 s the way forward mate

Well as you all know, if not you do now, I own a flying fish drift car from HSP. not everyones cup of tea, well its not liked much by the more experienced drifters, but thats because they know how quick you out grow a chassis. Im fairly new to the drift scene and think it suits me well for the moment. after all it has some nice features for a buget car. Its a 4WD car with an alloy centre drive shaft. fitted with a 540 23T brushed motor... and a pretty low power 1800mAh battery, and an 10 hour overnight charger. the transmitter is a 2 stick type or a pistol type, most of the newer models are the pistol type though. I have an early model, with twin stick. I prefer stick anyway. The car is good to run right out the box, just needs 8 AA batteries. my car came with a toyota soarer shell, but there is a bigger range from HSP now. the car has 200mm chassis as it shares it with the nitro version and the bug crusher monster truck plus a few other HSP models. The chassis is made of a hard thick plastic as is much of the components. but there is an alloy "backbone" running from front to rear and the base of each shock tower one front and one rear is an alloy strengthener plate! as for running the car runs well and has some speed to it. but the rim and tyre package it comes with is NOT the best. there is too little grip and it is hard to build up speed as the grip is very poor. and as such it is very easy to spin in tight circles, normally in a clockwise direction... very easy to slide but not so easy to control the slide. the shocks supplied are not filled with much oild and are very very soft. personally i swaped for shorter harder shocks and it handles much better. run time.... running almost full throttle most the time is about 15-18mins the car does not get much speed to drift until 3/4 throttle or higher... as for faults, well so far i have found only one. that is the front dogbones, the steering as too much throw and causes the bogbones to catch the hubs and wears the dogbones down, the cure is to fit the HSP universal joint shafts to the front... but even these are a little tight in one direction and then you need the alloy hub carriers to get the full benifits.... so locked rear diff, as not locked from factory. packed front diff with the thick black grease from the bike! sort of an LSD on the front now and sushi tyres! WOW! whole new animal! can actually control it now, even on the poor surface i use it on! got a few good controled drifts out of it and could actually get out of a drift with control too! now im impressed! still need ALOT more practice but I think i got a better chance now! and now with a 19T brushless motor it flies! and have a planet 2.4GHz radio in it now anyway its a good car for the money. I would not change it.... while i learning with it and it does what i want so im staying with it! got the carbon fibre chassis too! rebuild thread soon