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Showing content with the highest reputation on 27/09/13 in all areas

  1. Why are you bothered? As long as you receive the goods there's nothing to worry about..
    2 points
  2. Dunno, probably something to do with who's prepared to carry fuel and pricing structures.
    2 points
  3. Hi guys very proud to announce that Sussex & Surrey Bashers raised a fantastic
    1 point
  4. Please dont say its easy etc. until you've tried it Radio controlled model Hot Rods and Stock Cars are based on the full sized cars, they are powered by a 3.5cc glow engine (nitro). Due to there light yet strong design they are capable of reaching speeds of 40 mph. There are several body shells available both classic and modern. Stock cars were the second form of rc car racing to evolve after the initial circuit cars. These cars wre originally designed as a small copy of the full size f1 item. This class will teach you the merits of overtaking people who do not want to be passed! They are power by modern design 3.5cc glow fuel engines, which give scintillating performance allied to low running costs. The tracks are oval in shape as per the full sized item, and racing follows the full sized rules as closely as possible, with contact allowed. 1/8 stockcars are both exiting and affordable, a sport where everyone can be competitive. Hotrods are a newer class. Still powered by the same engines as the stockcars, this non-contact class provides close racing. With no contact the class provides close racing, while the aerodynamic designs and lightness of the chassis provide amazing lap times. MMRD www.mmrd.co.uk is the largest manufacturer of the cars. Come down and join in the fun at the Oval track. http://www.adurrc.org/index.php/oval http://www.facebook.com/groups/476904915664370/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/1410645439163146/ If you would like anymore info message the fb pages or pm me
    1 point
  5. Aye mines a bit "patchy" a think lol, first time it hits the water may well be its last. Gotta feeling its gonna do one.
    1 point
  6. What about the ridiculous body shell screws miko?!?!
    1 point
  7. Thanks for the answers chaps.
    1 point
  8. That area is covered with sand dump to prevent us from using it by the council. I'll just continue driving on the grass bit as we did last week.
    1 point
  9. Today...Mr Postie brought me a T-Bone front bumper for the little Firestorm. Fits a treat under the Bug shell!
    1 point
  10. rav these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190914316055?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
    1 point
  11. Yes - definitely the original Ultima as Si said. If you want any hints / tips or pointers on where to get bits just let me know. Spent most of the last year building up 2-3 Ultima / Ultima Pro models in a fit of nostalgia as it was my first hobby grade car years ago
    1 point
  12. Jony's a man of few words - and he uses his words wisely! If he says the Cobra is good - then it's the dog's dangly bits
    1 point
  13. What's your budget? shame you are not around this weekend, but don't worry the following week, I think is Battle of the Counties up at Perrenporth, now there will be quite few there so you can get a gist of what car to run, I have a lipo charger and power supply for sale, better getting from someone local, save you hunting around, Plus I have a Leisure battery as well you can use that for charging at the track. cars are XB9 E Losi 3.0 E S Workz 350 BE 1 Serpent cobra me only, s workz one other person
    1 point
  14. Tape used to tape up Gorillas!!!!!!!.... Goldman
    1 point
  15. Below sea.... Most of the time I seen him he was below knee level lol
    1 point
  16. That's easy the delorian from back to the future. It's both an rc and a real car 1.21gigawatts!
    1 point
  17. I was under the impression that you could send it to Logic RC here in the UK? Or does that not include out of warranty work? I'd still look at having that motor checked, 22/45 sounds a bit high for 6s.
    1 point
  18. Yes, although it may be worth looking at a c4.2 instead of b4, but there 1/10, not 1/8. Its really worth getting in contact with the club even if you have you deal with a 2 week wait. I'd hate to recommend you a car, have you spend your money on it and then find out they don't have race class for it. Whats the name of the club? Its possible there is someone on here who knows what they use.
    1 point
  19. I will solve all your problems in one go and buy it off you, PM me and we can agree a price.
    1 point
  20. Is this going to be on the 26th of october guys. As i may be able to join you boys for a final bash.
    1 point
  21. XERun 150A..... Full blown fire that ruined a LiPo and stank the shed out for weeks Hot enough to de-solder all the motor wires. Basically....ALL brands of ESC are liable to failure, and the more stress they are put under, the more likely they are to expose any manufacturing weakness. With second hand gear, you have no way of knowing how much high voltage abuse it's had, or how careful the guy was with his gearing choices etc. As evidenced by Admiral's long term usage of ESC's.....with proper care and setups that don't pull every available amp every second you are running, they are pretty reliable. After my fiery episode, I switched to 10th scale and went for Castle gear. Mine was bought used....but with a known history. The ESC is capable of handling a lot more than the motor can, and I hope it will hold together for a while. Also...at least Castle HAVE a warranty! Try returning stuff through Chinese E-Bay sellers, and you will have a lengthy wait, have to fund the postage, and may still get nothing. It's as if they would just rather you bought a new one..... As far as the motor issue goes....if the motor failed ( bearing siezure, short or whatever) it could potentially have drawn a massive current when you hit the throttle...causing the ESC to fry. If you plug the motor in to a shiny new ESC, it could just go the same way....and that's ANOTHER
    1 point
  22. The stock Losi engine is incredibly tight when new. Take the glow plug out just to make sure the cylinder isn't full of fuel and thats whats stopping the piston moving before you use too much force on it. Use a small screwdriver on the flywheel from underneath to turn the engine over. Heat it and when you put it on the box press the car about half way down to let the box spin up to speed before you press it all the way to down to try and start it. You will need to do the screwdriver thing almost every time you try and start it for the first eight or ten tanks. Oh and always make sure that the piston is somwhere around BDC when you stop the engine - just move the flywheel with your finger and if it feel free then thats good enough.
    1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. baja if an Rc, anfibious car or a boat if not
    1 point
  25. It an Ultima, probably the original version from the red shocks. In which case its more late 80's (88 onwards) and quite a collectable model. Spares can be found on ebay etc but expect to pay a lot!
    1 point
  26. found i had put bit of footage on tube
    1 point
  27. Stuck at top dead centre best way is heat up the engine and try forcing the flywheel round I use to do it by tapping it lightly with a flat screw driver and a hammer the flywheel that is but it's easier and safer for your engine to take it out warm it up and use a pair of mole grips on the flywheel
    1 point
  28. thankfully CML now are back to distributing yokomo! so getting spares eeeasy peasy.
    1 point
  29. Vettel for me. I hate people in front of me and see red mist when people are in front. >_<
    1 point
  30. Looking good so far I had right fun with the servo saver. It's a git to get the spring on and twist at same time. And the ball diffs are terrible to set up. I just bought a rtr cheap to cannibalise. I've got 3 now plus a monkey/lupuz as I thought maybe the inboard motor would calm it's wheelieing (it didn't) plus the Jekyll/rat handles better (imo!) Keep up the momentum lad. It's worth it in the end!!
    1 point
  31. Centrifugal Force... Goldman
    1 point
  32. Looking tidy Are you going to cover sealing the hull up and adding the motor/ESC and steering ? Would like to see this one going 'on the pond'
    1 point
  33. my new drifter schumacher mission mi1 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/7sxq.jpg/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/qd2.JPG/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/716/sri4.jpg/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/19/ud2j.jpg/ and my nikko car i modified wiv beta radio gear hitec steering servo electric speed controller ans futaba receiver http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/8i7.JPG/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/571/bf6g.jpg/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/da54.jpg/ http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/837/nls1.jpg/
    1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. black and silver got trashed :/
    1 point
  36. jesus Bez, you shoukd know ME better by now! Possibly mate, but I'd prefer not to split. PM me an offer and we'll see.
    1 point
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