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this is a thread we can use and ask for advice on pricing no trades/offer etc to take place on here tho its just for advice i will try to get this pinned BUT pics must be uploaded so we can see and give an accurate estimate for you (this is for your help more than ours )

I think you might struggle on this one tbh,the losi hasn't been around anywhere near as long as the baja,so cheap spares aren't out there yet. Plus not any manufacturers make hop ups yet either. Take the main chassis for instance,i've not seen one for sale for less than

It's part of the fun though mate! People who buy Nitro's tend to enjoy the tinkering side of RC. Whereas the guys who solely run electric do so because they hate tinkering and would rather just plug & play! I used to have a HPI Pro 3 & Nitro RS4 2 (on-road). I'd get bored racing around the track with the Pro 3 very quickly because it's quiet & without meaning to sound like a douche bag, way too easy. I'd switch over to the Nitro and suddenly it becomes a challenge just to get the power down in the right places! Patience is definitely the key to Nitro's though. Which if im honest, is running out for me thanks to the cold weather and forever changing engine tune! Still, it's wicked fun & well worth it when your blasting around an off-road track with a bunch of them with the sheer noise, smoke & smell.. Electric doesn't come close in this regard, well for me anyway. P.S - Guys, I FINALLY found some shock springs for the Truggy!! Ordered some earlier from WheelSpinModels. I'll post a link to them once I've tried them, just in case they don't fit! lol Also, what weight oil you guys running in your shocks? Wondering if 50wt is a good all-rounder..?

That the slash 4x4 is one of the toughest and most fun rc's ive ever owned. how many did you see running at the jam after surviving all day being thrown off ramps? Lots more than any other rc out there.

I'm not even going to say my opinion as i know people will start crying about it

It's that time again, never one to rest on my laurels (OR turn down a 7.5% discount and free shipping), this is the latest petrol powered monster to go BL: Not a big car at all imo, well, not when used to the size of the badger http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/xd.gif MMXL2 landed this morning, not going mgm as they don't appeal and 14s is a bit too excessive IMO, especially when running in public spaces. Silverback beadlocks (v2) inner and outer are here, TR chassis braces on their way from Abbots along with rear bone guards, red springs to be ordered off the bay this avo, conversion kit from RC Monster, can from MS, flysky rx is here Reckon on 4-6 weeks depending on delivery times, and also, if I have by then convinced our lass that it does need to live in the house http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/whistling.gif Couple of Losi family shots too: And of course there's an engine etc going up for sale too........

not my video obviously lol

this is SO AWESOME! Dudes in a 1:1 heli rescue an RC Mustang from a tree

Ace 1015 digital servo in perfect working condition -

My second shell dunno if I should sticker it or leave it Gunna sort the windows out aswell

all hail the motor master...... andrews motor rebuilds are legendary

Ordered the wrong size wheels for it!!

Well i went for red in the end and it has arrived today from modelsport with the upgrades done i wanted, so next is unboxing time which is all ways the best bit about getting any car i think. Just going to wait till my wife has put our son to bed and then its time to do the unboxing. I shouldnt be this excited at 37 years old but i am. Im very sad i know. lol

I've plasti dipped both my Xeruns esc's now, used a small paint brush to put it on. Don't put any where the sensor cable plugs in and the fan cable for esc, when it comes to the heatsink. Just apply plasti dip on the edges around the heatsink, don't cover the heatsink in plastic dip as it would overheat. It wont be 100 percent waterproof but it should be winter proof, remember that it will void you esc return policy to.

yes but sounds easier ill put it in both for now

still wont be an fg at heart tho kidding carl

Hi Martin, Welcome to the forum, lots of good people and great advice on here!!!!! Out the box without any spacers on the suspension is very low, I would say change the shock oils (not essential) and put in the spacers untill you find a ride height you like. Personally for bashing I have a slightly higher ride height than my racing set up. As a second hand purchase, the first thing I would check would be the diff and shock oils, also on first page of this forum has some good tips, other than that just ask away, think between us all on here we can answer most questions!!

Yeah, the originals are metal. However, I could not find identical ones for love nor money (on model shops) so settled for these. Haven't had any issues since replacing them in all my diff cases, so they certainly do the job! Edit: Nice find! They'll do the job!

Sidewinder?.......

ooo ooh springs,. I'm running 20k cst which allows for insane flat footed landings (40k if thats all you do lol). But that being said, for track puropses it's way too thick, I swap out my shocks for thinner filed ones when on the race track. On another subject my engine sleeve re pinch and mod from the .26 LS sport went well. Real tight compression now where as before u could push the piston all the way through the sleeve. Great little trick. Also added fuel grooves to the boost ports and rounded out the sleeve edges for a "slippery fuel effect". Running her in later this week ,. I hope all goes well. If so I will now have 3 engines all with great compression. Still I'm oggling over the "go engine" engines. Saw one on the track last week and was well impressed. I mean going from 32k rpm up to 44k rpm with increased torque and a smaller combustion chamber,.hmmm the power I can smell it already,.lol

I found the Hobbyking Orange Rx give better range and there

Getting there

You have to have a proper power house to move this size car so fast round the track. Shape of the car as you said DreXel is not yours and my cup of tee but level of ingenuity, engineering and working with available components this what I want to take forward and use on my car. Some things were never thought of in RC cars and I have a few ideas and Flux XL is big enough to experiment on.

I sense the Grasshopper has much to learn concerning Haiyin-Store Fu X-) http://www.haiyinsto...wh.asp?p_id=207 That battery, being a Truely rated rather than a marketing inflated 40C can handle 200 Amps continuous. Though the "Next button" being a little thing, almost hidden doesn't help ;-)

Why don't you put it in the Rc Videos section. Good video though mate. Thanks.

glue little mesh inside pull start hot glue gun fine ally mesh sorted

It can't go in its box get cracking lad winters closing in oops i think its here lol

Try bow ties or badlands I had mx's an was pants to say the least, I gave them my bro after just a few mins use. He now as bow ties and I have badlands, I did a back to back test and tested bow ties and there better than my badlands. So now am going to fit some studs to see if I can get some use out of them, but what a waste mx's was. The only thing I have broke on my HPI baja is 2 drive shaft pins, 2 spurs it was almost brand new. Could not be leave it was braking tbh, bought HPI as I dint want a clone in the end. But spent a few hundred quid on it just because I can. I have red all pages of this thread and its seems like his not done to bad, most of his broken parts are from pilot error, but that's said how many parts would brake if it want through our daft stunts. My pins and spurs broke because i drive flat out over bumps and jumps, had to fit 9mm shaft with replaceable pins, and an uprated spur gear. Now all seems fine, but only used for 2 maybe 2 and half gallons. Sent from the Iphone via talktapa

I run one of these and had no problems at all http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120964421944?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

This is not safe. Discard or you will regret it at somepoint.

A firestorm is great for bashing about my friend has none and beats the Brown stuff out of it only breaks when you hit a curb head on or a lamp post lol. Don't think there is a race class for them. I think 2wd 1/10th leccy and 4wd nitro and leccy have big followings. Also shortcourse has become very popular. The one class that sticks around in the 4wd 1/8 buggy. My advice is keep the firestorm for bashing but get yourself a 1/8 nitro buggy or Truggy for racing. A good place to see that each can do is a race track. Attend a race evening at your local track and see what you think is best for you.

Nice. Hpi are backing up their warranty as it should be. Maybe some model shops outside of modelsport will recognise this and react accordingly. Unlike the one I got my flux from who expected me to speak to hpi when I had an issue... Glad you're sorted. @mad4rc watch out for the throttle servo there's no return spring so if it fails in the full throttle position it's off and running! I fitted a kill switch and a return spring to mine and the throttle servo failed b4 I got the kill switch so my spring saved me... Other upgrades worthy of note - ally gear carrier and centre diff mount, velocity stack and decent pipe but I think you got one of those already.

best this to do mate is do a search on prices of spares ftx/km and fg before you choose whitch one you want, or if you go to bashes have a look at others or if there nice guys ask for a try i have 2 fg's and an hpi baja witch all have had problems (all sorted now tho).but seeing km baja as the bash even i was surprised how well they do

If anybody actually can answer that question, please DO NOT attempt to post pictorial evidence Just seek professional help....NOW!

Can anybody recommend which fuel to use to prevent my nipples from corroding?

Cut my new shell and masked it ready for paint

Have to say, credit to Modelsport & HPI. Sent a couple of pictures and a brief message of the broken diff outdrive to Modelsport last night and today got an email from HPI apologising for the part breaking and to say a new part was in the post, then 10 min later, a phone call from Modelsport just to let me know everything was sorted...first class service from them both To be honest mate just the servo's (especially throttle), a kill switch, and loctite all screws that go in to metal. Then just use it & enjoy it, replace/upgrade when needed. Glad your having fun and shoe goo & tape the inside of the shell

E clip replacement kit - gets rid of all of them and you get new plastic bits: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-OFNA-HYPER-7-TQ-PRO-Hinge-Pins-Mounts-NEW-UPGRADED-OH24-/130790083882?pt=US_Character_Radio_Control_Toys&hash=item1e73b24d2a

Soon bend that for ya matey

Don't want to task how much...but I know I want one

Should be a good turn out then.and i can finaly try the boat lol

The rcexl kill switch will not work. It is designed to work only with battery powered electronic ignition systems commonly found in large scale model aircraft.

Not really something to be proud about is it..............

The Type R is mine

I like the last shell paint work looks awesome xD.