HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[RCpete]

1 minute ago, dazp1976 said:

No idea but I can do you a new set of 4 for £6.75 all in 

 

Are they serrated on one side?

[dazp1976]

2 hours ago, RCpete said:

 

Are they serrated on one side?

Yes. They're the genuine hpi nuts.

[rsremco]

On 15-8-2016 at 14:00, dazp1976 said:

 

 

Sounds like a decent rig. I want to use Tessmann rears on mine too but don't want to use the carbon tower so no go yet. I used some Hellfire carriers on the front instead too as I could then use the stock Trophy cvd's 

 

I've changed to running / messing with my stock one atm and put the D8T ish one on the shelf.

 

 

Yeah i don't like the carbon tower too, thats why i use the alu D8T one

I still use the original CVD and dogebone,s all around. Luckly no problems with poping out or anything. When they wear out i will replace them with D8T Tessmanns. Just because i like the looks of them :-) 

[dazp1976]

2 minutes ago, rsremco said:

Yeah i don't like the carbon tower too, thats why i use the alu D8T one

I still use the original CVD and dogebone,s all around. Luckly no problems with poping out or anything. When they wear out i will replace them with D8T Tessmanns. Just because i like the looks of them :-) 

I found the Tessmann shocks bottomed out a bit too much for me with the standard D8T towers and the stock Trophy front cvd's were close in the diff cups and hit them on landing jumps. Bent a couple. As long as you're happy and it's going well is all that matters 

I wouldn't mind the D8T cvd's myself for the grease boot setup but they're a little pricey for me and a tad thinner.

[RestInPieces]

Sold the nitro and got myself a flux truggy!

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[RestInPieces]

Do the stadium 2 pro 3.5mm rebuild kit fit the trophy shocks?

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[dazp1976]

2 hours ago, RestInPieces said:

Do the stadium 2 pro 3.5mm rebuild kit fit the trophy shocks?

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HBC8107-2  front and back. Getting rare now tho.

https://hpiracing.world/en/part/HBC8107-2

Once you have the plastic bits and seals I think you can use the Pulse shafts as replacements if needed.

 

HPI discontinued most Lightning parts and went backwards, and they wonder why they got in the crapper.

 

[everclear1984]

9 hours ago, RestInPieces said:

Do the stadium 2 pro 3.5mm rebuild kit fit the trophy shocks?

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I've still got a set in my spares box from when I had my Trophy. They're yours for a fiver if you want them.

[RestInPieces]

HBC8107-2  front and back. Getting rare now tho.

https://hpiracing.world/en/part/HBC8107-2

Once you have the plastic bits and seals I think you can use the Pulse shafts as replacements if needed.

 

HPI discontinued most Lightning parts and went backwards, and they wonder why they got in the crapper.

 

Yeah i came across some on ebay!

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[Tyler937]

Any ideas where I could get a purple set of the servo mounts? 

Stock part is 101108.

 

Any help appreciated

Like pictured here

[Shiesty2000]

I don't think you will be able to find them any more. You can try and find purple aluminum standoff which are common on drones. I'm unsure of thread and length that you need for that tho

[Shiesty2000]

https://aerialpixels.com/shop/tools-hardware/metric-standoffs/m3-x-35mm-aluminum-round-step-standoff-purple-4pcs/

Here's an example

[Tyler937]

Smashing cheers for that.

I can always retapp the thread if needed 

[rutteger]

Just picked up a truggy flux.

 

Surprisingly enough the chassis is bent slightly towards the front. Any tips for pulling it straight, not sure if heat is or isn't a good idea on the 6061 chassis plate.

 

Have searched through this thread and advice with regards to brace seems to be mixed.

 

Currently have the front HPI anti-bending rod 101770 fitted, are there any better solutions? Or is chassis bending to be expected?

 

[twisty]

The front is supposed to be bent up at the front(just behind the back screw holes for the front diff)so the front diff is at a slight angle up.

,get a pic up to show better what you mean

 

 

Edited November 9, 2016 by twisty

[Shiesty2000]

Looking to convert my nitro to brushless using a castle 2200kv mamba monster x. Currently running 7k/50k/5k diff oil. What diff oil is recommended for electric? Anything else I should change over while converting?

[dazp1976]

5 minutes ago, Shiesty2000 said:

Looking to convert my nitro to brushless using a castle 2200kv mamba monster x. Currently running 7k/50k/5k diff oil. What diff oil is recommended for electric? Anything else I should change over while converting?

 

You've probarbly done most but off the top of my head:

Diff oils are of personal prefference. I run 10/30/7 in mine for just running on the flat. I reckon you'll be fine as you are for now unless you jump a lot in which case go higher than you are.

 

I recommend the hard diff gears 101142 if you haven't already.

 

The Trophy motor mount has a third hole at the bottom when bolting to the chassis. I would drill the extra hole as I snapped my motor mount using only the 2 holes at the center dff so drilled the chassis to put the 3rd one in. Haven't found a better mount that fit's yet as the Trophy one is only cast alloy.

You may need to drill a bit anyway for other bits.

 

Alloy suspension block at the back of the front diff such as HPI #67384 or the GPM full block sets from ebay.

 

 

I'm also a fan of the nut/bolt type hinge pins getting rid of those e rings especially on the outer arms.

Hot bodies 109848 inner

Hot bodies 68184 rear outer

M3x50mm bolts cut down, for front outer: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162144568074?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=461117570735&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

17mm hex conversion.

 

There's a few bthings you can do to make it stronger but a few bits are starting to become unavailable, or expensive.

 

 

[Shiesty2000]

 
You've probarbly done most but off the top of my head:
Diff oils are of personal prefference. I run 10/30/7 in mine for just running on the flat. I reckon you'll be fine as you are for now unless you jump a lot in which case go higher than you are.
 
I recommend the hard diff gears 101142 if you haven't already.
 
The Trophy motor mount has a third hole at the bottom when bolting to the chassis. I would drill the extra hole as I snapped my motor mount using only the 2 holes at the center dff so drilled the chassis to put the 3rd one in. Haven't found a better mount that fit's yet as the Trophy one is only cast alloy.
You may need to drill a bit anyway for other bits.
 
Alloy suspension block at the back of the front diff such as HPI #67384 or the GPM full block sets from ebay.
 
 
I'm also a fan of the nut/bolt type hinge pins getting rid of those e rings especially on the outer arms.
Hot bodies 109848 inner
Hot bodies 68184 rear outer
M3x50mm bolts cut down, for front outer: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162144568074?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=461117570735&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
17mm hex conversion.
 
There's a few bthings you can do to make it stronger but a few bits are starting to become unavailable, or expensive.
 
 

I've upgraded pretty much everything possible on it already so it seems like I would just need the motor mount and battery boxes. I'm surprised the diff oil is that light I figured electric would require much thicker oil

[Shiesty2000]

 
You've probarbly done most but off the top of my head:
Diff oils are of personal prefference. I run 10/30/7 in mine for just running on the flat. I reckon you'll be fine as you are for now unless you jump a lot in which case go higher than you are.
 
I recommend the hard diff gears 101142 if you haven't already.
 
The Trophy motor mount has a third hole at the bottom when bolting to the chassis. I would drill the extra hole as I snapped my motor mount using only the 2 holes at the center dff so drilled the chassis to put the 3rd one in. Haven't found a better mount that fit's yet as the Trophy one is only cast alloy.
You may need to drill a bit anyway for other bits.
 
Alloy suspension block at the back of the front diff such as HPI #67384 or the GPM full block sets from ebay.
 
 
I'm also a fan of the nut/bolt type hinge pins getting rid of those e rings especially on the outer arms.
Hot bodies 109848 inner
Hot bodies 68184 rear outer
M3x50mm bolts cut down, for front outer: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162144568074?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=461117570735&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
17mm hex conversion.
 
There's a few bthings you can do to make it stronger but a few bits are starting to become unavailable, or expensive.
 
 

I've upgraded pretty much everything possible on it already so it seems like I would just need the motor mount and battery boxes. I'm surprised the diff oil is that light I figured electric would require much thicker oil

[dazp1976]

Revival  

Worked well on the back so I finally got round to modding (bodging?) the fronts.

Nice and thick 4mm shafts 

Filing down the plastics from the 67515 shock kit to fit takes a bit of doing but I think it's worth it.

[Sully]

You should go into production, I'd have a set off you


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[Sully]

You should go into production, I'd have a set off you


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[stevo2551]

I've not posted on here for a while, but I went out the other week with a friend and let him loose with the tbf while I farted around with the stubborn savage and yokomo for a bit. He crashed a few times and eventually broke the front steering buckle, bent the front A arm pin holder, snapped the back one, and broken the diff casing. I fixed it all up at work today and then realised the battery case/holder is also snapped at the corner, can anyone tell me the part number for this as I can't seem to find one.

As for diff oil I've not done mine for a while but I think I've got 7k/10k/5k in mine 

[dazp1976]

1 hour ago, stevo2551 said:

I've not posted on here for a while, but I went out the other week with a friend and let him loose with the tbf while I farted around with the stubborn savage and yokomo for a bit. He crashed a few times and eventually broke the front steering buckle, bent the front A arm pin holder, snapped the back one, and broken the diff casing. I fixed it all up at work today and then realised the battery case/holder is also snapped at the corner, can anyone tell me the part number for this as I can't seem to find one.

As for diff oil I've not done mine for a while but I think I've got 7k/10k/5k in mine 

 

Should find it among:this lot:

https://www.hpiracing.com/en/parts/107016/std

https://www.hpiracing.com/en/parts/107018/std

[Spanky5000]

Afternoon folks!

 

New member here. The long and short of it is that I've always wanted a nitro rc car and originally was drawn towards the likes of the hyper 7 or hot bodies lightning 2 (going back to when I first started looking into them years ago!)

 

after a a lot of research lately, I've shortlisted the HPI TT 4.6v2 but just had a few questions before I went for one - birthday on Monday so wanted to make sure it's definitely right for me before asking the missus haha!

 

firstly, is there any particular starter kit you'd recommend I should get with it in terms of fuel or glow plug kit etc?

 

are there still a good amount of hop ups available for them (metal chassis parts etc) as I enjoy tinkering and would want the ability to upgrade weaker parts as and when they break

 

what parts would you recommend to upgrade out the box? So far through reading on here, I've got the gist of things like steering arm servo screw/steering and throttle servos etc?

 

really excited and thanks in advance for any help/advice

 

Cheers,

 

Spanky