Shiesty2000

I've upgraded pretty much everything possible on it already so it seems like I would just need the motor mount and battery boxes. I'm surprised the diff oil is that light I figured electric would require much thicker oil

I've upgraded pretty much everything possible on it already so it seems like I would just need the motor mount and battery boxes. I'm surprised the diff oil is that light I figured electric would require much thicker oil

Looking to convert my nitro to brushless using a castle 2200kv mamba monster x. Currently running 7k/50k/5k diff oil. What diff oil is recommended for electric? Anything else I should change over while converting?

https://aerialpixels.com/shop/tools-hardware/metric-standoffs/m3-x-35mm-aluminum-round-step-standoff-purple-4pcs/ Here's an example

I don't think you will be able to find them any more. You can try and find purple aluminum standoff which are common on drones. I'm unsure of thread and length that you need for that tho

Yup on my nitro

https://vimeo.com/147941465 Built a nice ramp last weekend. Surprisingly nothing broke even after flipping it about 10times haha

I'm using a hitec X1 charger and it's great. No complaints. As far as fuel filter some people say it's not necessary but I have one

Pretty sure flush is factory

I believe you do and a 7.2v hump pak won't fit. And yes u can use lipo

Torque servo for the steering

Are you using a hump pack or AA batteries? Hump pack will Deff make a difference on how the servos perform but to be honest the stock servos aren't that great. I lasted about a week before I ended up changing them. A lot of people use the steering servo for the for the throttle/brake and buy a new servo for the steering. I upgraded both and it makes a tremendous difference. I do have a fuel filter on mine but if u don't maintain it and let it sit for a while the fuel can gum up and clog it.

Yes the end adjustments are important as it will cause extra strain on the servo. I see you posted above that the it will move at idle. This can be cause by either to high of an idle or your servo isn't centered and keeping the carburetor to think your giving it throttle. Pull the air filter off and set the carb gap to 1mm with the brake applied. Then release the brake and see if the carburetor moves. If it does the servo needs to be adjusted. Hope this helps

As long as you use a complete clutch setup from a savage everything will fit. So yes the parts you listed will fit

Hmm maybe I'll try that out and grind it down if anything. Thanks

Sorry I meant the side guards that screw to the main chassis.

Does anyone know if the mud guards on the flux will fit the nitro if I just drill the holes?

This pics old but I wrapped mine and it stays pretty nice. Best part is when it does get messed up I peal it off and put a new one on

Pretty sure it's just a vinyl wrap

I'm using a spectrum dx3c. I'm using it more for the better distance and adjustability for the steering. $150

Anyone know where I can get those purple mounts for the radio tray ?

Is this the plate your referring to? If so then yes it should lay flat on the diff

I'm pretty sure those parts will fit the stock clutch bell but if you decide to change the clutch bell later on your going to run into issues with that flywheel. I changed my clutch bell to a savage 17t vented bell and The pins to mount the clutch are very long and will hit the inside of that clutch bell. If I were you I would buy a complete savage setup. For a savage clutch bell you will need different bearings.

I glued them myself. I had a set of pre glued but they ballooned really bad so I belted these. It was also my first time gluing tires. I'm gonna try what you did with the dremel but the entire tire didn't come off. Only the inside of the tire and about half of it. What do you suggest I do?