HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[TT83]

I've been always use 20%...but in one occasion I use 25%, and I noticed an increase on the temp...like 15-20f...So I went back to 20%

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[dazp1976]

On 12/4/2015, 8:23:11, m4inbrain said:

Well, if i'm doing it right, it's overheating. It constantly scrapes at 250-260 fahrenheit, with the body off and in 55 fahrenheit outdoor temp. Don't get it, if i lean it out eventually and the outdoor temps rise, i will ruin that engine. 

New clutch it is btw, gonna order that one soon. Funny enough, the one that they put in right from the factory is not the one that they suggest as replacement/spare. Kinda shows how much they think that clutch is worth (2shoe factory, spare part in manual already 3shoe). 

Just spotted the clutch stuff. #number revisions:

#67525 - FLYWHEEL (3PINS/BLACK)
#86076 - PILOT NUT 1/4-28x8.5mm (BLACK)
#101199 - RACING CLUTCH SHOES (3PCS)
#101201 - RACING CLUTCH SPRINGS (3PCS)

Or any of these for alloy shoes:

#101778 - ALUM. RACING CLUTCH SHOES
#114759 - COMPETITION ALUM
#87196 - ALUMINUM CLUTCH SHOE SET

Which glow plug has it got? Maybe use a colder one.

 

Edited December 5, 2015 by dazp1976

[m4inbrain]

Hm, i assumed 25% is okay since the manual explicitly states that. And the 20% HPI wasn't in stock, so there's that. ^^

edit:

And then there's the issue that i can't make it die in idle. It never does, no matter how low i set the idle needle. It's weird.

Edited December 4, 2015 by m4inbrain

[m4inbrain]

Factory plug, i dunno what they give you with it. 

That's also interesting, people say that after break in it's dirty, clogged and whatnot. Mine is completely fine. No dirt, black stuff, gob, or whatever you call it. It looks now after 5 tanks the same way it looked the first time i checked it.

A lot of people suggest getting a new plug after break in because it's broken, didn't happen to me at all. Colder plug might help, i guess, but if i understand correctly, if you're not using the correct one, it can also damage your engine (firing late/early)?

[dazp1976]

31 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

It says the option plugs are:

1502

1503

1504

Hot,med,cold

 

 

Edited December 4, 2015 by dazp1976

[m4inbrain]

Guess i'm gonna order a cold one with the clutch, too. 

Well, at least i know first hand now why people change over to electric.  

[TT83]

Try the McCoy ones...

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[m4inbrain]

Gonna give it a shot, the shop i order from has them. Just need to find out which are which. Are "powerplugs" just marketing gibberish, or is there an actual difference between lets say a Mc8 Powerplug and a Mc8 Glowplug? Oo

[dazp1976]

1 hour ago, m4inbrain said:

Guess i'm gonna order a cold one with the clutch, too. 

Well, at least i know first hand now why people change over to electric.  

Well, electric isn't all it's cracked up to be tbf. Fair enough they're relatively quick. I'm running a 1600kv on 6s for better efficiency but I spent around £120 on a decent charge system, £180 for 6 batteries then you have the motor and esc cost!!!

I can charge 3x 6s batteries in one go in 40 mins but when it comes to running I get around 9 mins per pack on short grass which is pretty s**t and gets pretty hot on the motor. If I run on the tarmac I can get a good 20-25 ish. When I first went brushless on only 4s I was just about getting 7 mins on a 6000mah pack. Off road electric my a**e.

The only off road electric vehicles worth bothering with are the ones with a 2-3 speed gearbox as they don't use as much power to pull off when stationary. A vehicle with only a center diff takes a massive amount of power to start.

Now, I have proven this because I had a MTA4 with a center diff conversion which kept burning motors and gave no run time because of the amount of power it needed for a standing start. I then changed it to run through the 2 speed gearbox and never had any issues and got good run times because it's 1st gear made it very easy for the motor to pull from a standing start (and it would backflip on command like this)

What I might do now because I'm so fed up with elec is go back to nitro on the Trophy and have another car with a gearbox for electric.

Another thing is that the Trophy truggy shocks can't handle the extra weight of the electric components on the Flux imo. HPI have just thrown the components in to try and compete with other brands when brushless became popular but once you stick a 750 gram battery in there the suspension goes soft as s**t, breaks caps and bends those skinny shafts left right and center and the heavier the oil you use the more the shafts bend.

I'll stop ranting now, I kinda went on one!! sorry chaps lol

Edited December 4, 2015 by dazp1976

[m4inbrain]

Oh no worries, i'm set on nitro. Might be a bit overwhelming at the start, and frankly, a bit annoying to figure out why something doesn't run as it's supposed to even brand new - but the smell alone makes up for it i think, hehe.

One idea about the idle and temps btw.. Cold air. The air is reasonably cold, or better: dense. Could that be the reason for a high idle/high temps? That the factory settings, while on the rich side, are simply not rich enough for the temperatures we're having here? It's getting too much oxygen due to the air being cold/dense?

edit: that would also explain why, even on the lowest setting for the idle needle, the engine doesn't stall. It still gets enough air for a good, even high idle. I'm just guessing though, it's more real car logic that brings me there - no idea if that works on nitros as well.

Edited December 4, 2015 by m4inbrain

[amandasum]

I run my engine regular between 250/270f as do a couple of others I know and it seems to be happier at these temps despite what the manual states I use an os8 plug all year round 

[m4inbrain]

That's a medium plug, right?

[dazp1976]

1 minute ago, m4inbrain said:

That's a medium plug, right?

Yes. Just checked it out.

[m4inbrain]

Hm.. Well, as stated, need to order quite a few things (shock oil, diff oil, 3shoe clutch, glowplug and some other bits), i'm gonna do all that next week. 

I will also try tomorrow and run the car even richer, both on low and highspeed needle. While not convinced, i'm still pretty confident that the air is too cold for factory settings, and that's why it gets so hot.

[TT83]

I believe that if your throttle is all the way close...you might have an air leak...and that might explain the ruining hot situation...

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[amandasum]

Simple way to find out if you have an air leak is close the idle screw so you have no gap and if it still idles at all you have an air leak

[Sully]

All back up and running again, see how long it takes this time.

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[evssv]

12 1/2 minutes 

[dazp1976]

2 minutes ago, evssv said:

12 1/2 minutes 

Bit generous there

[evssv]

Lol!!!.........

[m4inbrain]

Hm, air leak is certainly possible too. Would be weird on a brand new unit, but that would also explain why i can't air-starve the engine. 

Are there any tricks to locate air leaks? 

edit: instead of closing the carb, would blocking the air filter work too?

Edited December 5, 2015 by m4inbrain

[Sully]

Are yous saying I can't drive ?

I only bent the aluminium strengthener, chassis and the centre shaft.

I've made a ramp at work so it could be interesting later.

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[Shiesty2000]

https://vimeo.com/147941465

Built a nice ramp last weekend. Surprisingly nothing broke even after flipping it about 10times haha

[m4inbrain]

Looking at servos, does anyone use a HPI SF-40 for throttle/brakes? I feel like the 4,5kg servo is not even remotely strong enough to pull the brakes hard enough (4,5kg servo stock). 

Are there other "waterproof" servos of other makes that one should check out, or is it fine to go with that one? I know that in general, waterproof is not really a necessity, but it's kinda convenient. 

[TT83]

I found this vids really helpful...Check them out...they're 14 of them...

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