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HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!


henzy190

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opinions on 2 shocks on each arms?

Heard that the dual shock setup can make the suspension a bit too stiff. You will need a long FULL thread bolt for this option to fit standoffs either side and modding of the body mount possibly needed.. The only fully threaded M3 type I know of are the ones with the button head in the link below as everything else is generally only half threaded at long lengths. I can't remember what size is needed but these come in 40-50mm which should be plenty.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-Stainless-Steel-Button-Head-Screw-Allen-Socket-Bolts-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-/160792810792?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item256fff9528

Edited by dazp1976
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Heard that the dual shock setup can make the suspension a bit too stiff. You will need a long FULL thread bolt for this option to fit standoffs either side and modding of the body mount possibly needed.. The only fully threaded M3 type I know of are the ones with the button head in the link below as everything else is generally only half threaded at long lengths. I can't remember what size is needed but these come in 40-50mm which should be plenty.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-Stainless-Steel-Button-Head-Screw-Allen-Socket-Bolts-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-/160792810792?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item256fff9528

thank you buddy will look into it
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thank you buddy will look into it

Might be worth taking the fronts off - putting the front end of car on something to get it level height - temporarily taking rear body mount off and putting 2 standoffs at rear with a standard bolt (I would say 20mm may just about do it) - fit front shocks to front side of rear end - check the stiffness and rebound response by pushing down and force dropping the rear end from a few inches up. Might give you a good indication of how it reacts before you spend

Edited by dazp1976
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I did something similar when I first got my buggy, but instead of doubling up on shocks, I doubled the springs and stayed with one damper per corner. Basically I had a spare set of 1/10 shocks lying around so I pulled the springs off them, slid them up my buggy shock, and then sliding, and twisting/screwing my 1/8 shocks over and interlocking the pair. It worked well on big jumps and they took a lot of hammer lime that. The only problem was that it wasn't as 'smooth' as I had wanted, but it was a compromise that I bashed with for a few weeks before removing and going back to singles

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do you guys run your buggys with grub screws in the bottom arms to adjust 'droop'? Or rely on the little 'wings' on the chassis? Just curious really. I used some normal Phillips screws with the tips cut off but they've been eating into these wings, so removed them before last run, and broke a disc in my shock, could this of happened by the opposite of bottoming out, whatever the technical term is haha

I've tried stripping down to the chassis and bending said wings to how I think they should be but they're still not exactly the same so going to put the screws back in again just a tad...

Edited by stevo2551
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do you guys run your buggys with grub screws in the bottom arms to adjust 'droop'? Or rely on the little 'wings' on the chassis? Just curious really. I used some normal Phillips screws with the tips cut off but they've been eating into these wings, so removed them before last run, and broke a disc in my shock, could this of happened by the opposite of bottoming out, whatever the technical term is haha

I've tried stripping down to the chassis and bending said wings to how I think they should be but they're still not exactly the same so going to put the screws back in again just a tad...

I was curious if there is enough space in there to put a non nyloc nut on the end of the screw under the arm to give it a larger surface area so it doesn't dig into said wings but may not yield enough droop although the wings could be bent downwards slightly to compensate. Hmmm interesting idea perhaps. I may try it at some point to see but the Trophy is in bed for a bit as I've gotten my hair off with it at the minute until a load of bits come in from worldwide. :x:

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droop for bashers tuning:

  • if you are grip rolling run less droop (screw in)
  • if u have significantly less rear droop, arse can suddenly slideout with loss of control.

a small piece of rubber tape helps, for chassis screw protection, oh and grub screws ofcoarse .

Edited by Deafty
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I had thought about sticking something to the wing things like a couple of 5p's or something but if it comes off on one side then it'll ride funny the rest of the bash lol

I think I may have just the thing in my toolbox, some 5'ish mm thick rubber seal from an Austin champ...knew it would come in handy some day if I kept it long enough.

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opinions on 2 shocks on each arms?

Currently in the middle of doing this myself

Had to order some long screws from the bay. Thinks the ones I ordered we're m3x55mm just for peace of mind got 5 for

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umm,. u can just use a threaded rod for a quid, cut to length with a nut on each end.  should get clear of 20 from it.

True, true. Sometimes you just can't be bothered though and want the easy way. :)

On another note, I have found on a couple of my diffs the spider gears have gone really tight again causing spin outs at the rear. Seems as though the diff housings shrink a bit with the heat as far as I am concerned because they still look good. Those harder gears are always a pretty exact fit to begin with. I'm wondering if this time I use 2 of the 101028 - DIFFERENTIAL PADS instead of 1 to loosen it up a bit and then use these washers pictured below underneath the larger internal spider gears like on the Savage and Thunder Tigers to then shim them to a nice mesh feel to get more life from the housings. Shouldn't do any harm should it?

aaCyWbm.jpg

Edited by dazp1976
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On another note, I have found on a couple of my diffs the spider gears have gone really tight again causing spin outs at the rear. Seems as though the diff housings shrink a bit with the heat as far as I am concerned because they still look good. Those harder gears are always a pretty exact fit to begin with. I'm wondering if this time I use 2 of the 101028 - DIFFERENTIAL PADS instead of 1 to loosen it up a bit and then use these washers pictured below underneath the larger internal spider gears like on the Savage and Thunder Tigers to then shim them to a nice mesh feel to get more life from the housings. Shouldn't do any harm should it?

 

Yeah might work, but have look for smaller shims.  I find asiatees and rcmart have a good selection ;) note asia tees diameters are internal and and have 1 mm width so add 2mm for outside diameter ;)  they are from 3 racing I believe.  get a bunch of sizes so you can shim ya hubs and steering too :)

 

Also Inovative Rc do some alloy diff cases which are superb ;) under HB 'lightning ' I believe

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Yeah might work, but have look for smaller shims. I find asiatees and rcmart have a good selection ;) note asia tees diameters are internal and and have 1 mm width so add 2mm for outside diameter ;) they are from 3 racing I believe. get a bunch of sizes so you can shim ya hubs and steering too :)

Also Inovative Rc do some alloy diff cases which are superb ;) under HB 'lightning ' I believe

Thanks for the link for the aluminum diff cases. I've been looking for them for a while now.

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anyone running a hpi nitro start f3.5 PRO engine with a 44t hardened steal spur and the 15t heavy duty clutch bell with a 3 shoe clutch. if so what kind of speed you getting on grass ande could it beat a 1/10 hpi bullet st. thanks

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Had a good trip out today with the buggy on the local quarry with the new batterys, no major issues, plenty of smiles...and rain.

Still waiting on the shock rebuild kit, but my bodge held up pretty well for a good hour. I think I may need a new front diff case though, 2 snapped screws in one side, and the other 2 don't like staying in more than about 10 mins

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Had a good trip out today with the buggy on the local quarry with the new batterys, no major issues, plenty of smiles...and rain.

Still waiting on the shock rebuild kit, but my bodge held up pretty well for a good hour. I think I may need a new front diff case though, 2 snapped screws in one side, and the other 2 don't like staying in more than about 10 mins

Use 4mm tensile.

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looking at two servos please help me out and tell me what one will fit, I don't know how to past URLS so the servo is on wheelspin and the item codes are SAV-SW0230MG and the other one is SAV-SW0231MG please have a look and help me out before I purchase the wrong one.

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