HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[RestInPieces]

Already sold the big bores as they were ****! But damn did they look great

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[RestInPieces]

Anyone know what big bores fit the trophy truggy. Near the same length as stock shocks

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Nope. Honestly, knowing what I know now I wouldn't bother either. They just don't seem to pack well regardless of oil + piston  + spring used and just bitch slap the floor. The lay down angle which you have on the Trophy makes them just soft as. I've tried 112mm and 124mm hotbodies at various angles, every piston from 1.2 - 1.4, every oil from 25wt to 70wt, most Kyosho hard springs and nearly all hpi/hot bodies springs, both D8T towers, scratch built towers, various bits bolted to towers for different angles and now got fed up with it so it's sat in the garage and I'm running my near stock one until I have an epiphany [emoji3][emoji3][emoji3] 

If you are breaking caps and bending shafts I would say it's more likely down to heavy oil so maybe the best bet is to double the shocks up so you can run a lower weight oil but get a similar effect in handling. This could help a bit.

I noticed you have some bb's on the front already so put your 4 stock ones on the rear with a lower weight oil and see what the results are, might as well try it out.

I'm running mine relatively soft now on the flux, it slaps well but handles well. I have had nowhere near as much shock damage and have put on a T-bone to protect chassis rear.

Surely the the 124mm would work because there near the same length as stock?

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[dazp1976]

2 hours ago, RestInPieces said:

Surely the the 124mm would work because there near the same length as stock?

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The more upright big bores are the harder they get. Because of the angle they were sitting at on the Trophy the softer they were. I started with 1.2 pistons, 50wt oil and had the hardest possible red 95mm Kyosho springs fitted and they wouldn't even support the weight of the car. Can't really get harder than that. Tried them the same set up on a different car where they sat more upright and they went stiff as hell set up exactly the same. It's all to do with the way the shocks lay down. The 124mm were even worse than the 112mm!!!

This is one reason I bought a D812. Was better option as a spare set rather than selling them and making a huge loss.

Edited January 13, 2016 by dazp1976

[SlayerLayer]

On Thursday, January 07, 2016 at 6:13 PM, RestInPieces said:

 

Can't get rid of these damn quotes.

I'm just going to have double shocks if i break anymore caps or anything else with my shocks. 

Easy fix i think.

The truggy is still not running again because of the bloody pullstar not recoiling back in again 

Edited January 13, 2016 by SlayerLayer

[m4inbrain]

Totally recommend a starter box (dual 775 goes for around £30 used).

Got mine and will never use the pullstart again (still attached).

Edited January 13, 2016 by m4inbrain

[dazp1976]

When I get the buggy sorted for the spring/summer I'm going to look into maybe getting these below. Be easier for me to carry oppose to a starter box. Forget pullstarts.

 

Edited January 13, 2016 by dazp1976

[m4inbrain]

Don't see how that's easier to carry around though, my box isn't that heavy (4s lipo rather than 12v gel). Also acts like a car stand on which the wheels spin free, as an added bonus.

[SlayerLayer]

Yeah but i only like the pullstart because no need to charge more batteries as i always forget to charge batteries and you wear out the bearing quicker with them but not a pullstart.

But if it carries on playing up i might have to get a roto start or starter box.

[SlayerLayer]

But my engine still isn't running correctly since i fitted some new fuel line and a fuel cooler, and had to go back to the old standard fuel line as it just wasn't running it would stall all the time and every time i used the throttle, but haven't set up the neddles yet as their back to factory settings atm, its been a very big pain lately since i changed the fuel line.

Kind of regret it as before i did that it was tuned nicely and was running lovely.

So all this restarting the engine might have something to do with why the pullstart whent lol.

[dazp1976]

1 minute ago, m4inbrain said:

Don't see how that's easier to carry around though, my box isn't that heavy (4s lipo rather than 12v gel). Also acts like a car stand on which the wheels spin free, as an added bonus.

I see your point, does sound more useful. It depends on how much space I have on the mobility scooter. I'll have a look at the sizes of everything in terms of starters and carriers.

My overall plan is to join cmcc and go at least once a week (6.5 mile round trip) with the D812 and when bashing switch the chassis and most driveline to a trophy buggy one to save the racing diffs etc. 

[dazp1976]

6 minutes ago, SlayerLayer said:

But my engine still isn't running correctly since i fitted some new fuel line and a fuel cooler, and had to go back to the old standard fuel line as it just wasn't running it would stall all the time and every time i used the throttle, but haven't set up the neddles yet as their back to factory settings atm, its been a very big pain lately since i changed the fuel line.

Kind of regret it as before i did that it was tuned nicely and was running lovely.

So all this restarting the engine might have something to do with why the pullstart whent lol.

Maybe leave the fuel cooler for summer. Might be too cold. Or it's just restricting the flow, who knows.

[SlayerLayer]

I think it was the fuel line or their was some lost presure somewhere, i did try running with the new fuel line without the fuel cooler but still the same problem.

But ive now got the old fuel line on no fuel cooler but haven't had the time to go out to tune it yet as i hope the problem is gone now.

But first I've got to fix the pullstart as im pretty sure its just stuck against the backplate so ill take it out and see might try superglue the pullstart cord knot to the plastic as that was the problem last time.

[dazp1976]

Last time I did a pullstart the spring smacked me in the face  

[SlayerLayer]

2 minutes ago, dazp1976 said:

Last time I did a pullstart the spring smacked me in the face  

Yeah i remember the first time i tried to fix the pullstart i unravelled it and i was there for hours trying to get it back in and i ended up with the spring all bent in places but managed to get it back in.

But now I've worked it out how to get t back in quite easily with some long plyers.

[m4inbrain]

26 minutes ago, dazp1976 said:

I see your point, does sound more useful. It depends on how much space I have on the mobility scooter. I'll have a look at the sizes of everything in terms of starters and carriers.

My overall plan is to join cmcc and go at least once a week (6.5 mile round trip) with the D812 and when bashing switch the chassis and most driveline to a trophy buggy one to save the racing diffs etc. 

Gonna tell you weight and measurements of mine in a bit, dinner first.

Mine also has a usable handle, you can just hang it off the steering bar then.  

[RestInPieces]

When I get the buggy sorted for the spring/summer I'm going to look into maybe getting these below. Be easier for me to carry oppose to a starter box. Forget pullstarts.

 

Ive got one for my truggy, there awesome!

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[m4inbrain]

So.. Today was the first "oh my god, everybody is going to die" moment.

I'm not entirely sure why it happened, but the throttle servo horn came lose (stock one, didn't change over). It was on tight, it came off, no idea why and it's not really that important right now.

It came towards me thank god, and i was able to basically "catch it with my foot", it span a couple of times and then went straight into a sidewalk. Head on. I assume it had like 10m to accelerate under full throttle, can't tell a speed because i was panicking quite decently. It smacked the sidewalk, engine died. As in, stopped running. 

After a bit of fiddling (servo horn back on), i tried starting it again, and alas, started on second pull. But, now the bad part, i think it runs leaner now (i hope it's imagination), and it runs "rough". Like.. How would i explain that, it feels like the clutch engages and disengages every second. And vibrates alot. It also makes a weird farty sound now when i let it run for a while in idle and then floor it, with the engine almost cutting out. It's running rich, but before it kinda just had trouble rev-ing up, until i blipped the throttle a bit - now it literally sounds like someone is grabbing onto the flywheel, choking the engine. Sidenote, i also changed the stock airfilter to a byron one. 

With a head on crash, what can break that i 100% need to check? I don't really want to open the engine if i don't need to, for example.

.. halp

edit: also overheating again.. 135 degrees after two roughly 3 second WoT, shell off. Rich settings and on stock air filter (changed it back to old one to have a reference point).

Edited January 14, 2016 by m4inbrain

[dazp1976]

1 hour ago, m4inbrain said:

So.. Today was the first "oh my god, everybody is going to die" moment.

I'm not entirely sure why it happened, but the throttle servo horn came lose (stock one, didn't change over). It was on tight, it came off, no idea why and it's not really that important right now.

It came towards me thank god, and i was able to basically "catch it with my foot", it span a couple of times and then went straight into a sidewalk. Head on. I assume it had like 10m to accelerate under full throttle, can't tell a speed because i was panicking quite decently. It smacked the sidewalk, engine died. As in, stopped running. 

After a bit of fiddling (servo horn back on), i tried starting it again, and alas, started on second pull. But, now the bad part, i think it runs leaner now (i hope it's imagination), and it runs "rough". Like.. How would i explain that, it feels like the clutch engages and disengages every second. And vibrates alot. It also makes a weird farty sound now when i let it run for a while in idle and then floor it, with the engine almost cutting out. It's running rich, but before it kinda just had trouble rev-ing up, until i blipped the throttle a bit - now it literally sounds like someone is grabbing onto the flywheel, choking the engine. Sidenote, i also changed the stock airfilter to a byron one. 

With a head on crash, what can break that i 100% need to check? I don't really want to open the engine if i don't need to, for example.

.. halp

edit: also overheating again.. 135 degrees after two roughly 3 second WoT, shell off. Rich settings and on stock air filter (changed it back to old one to have a reference point).

If it was running while stuck against the sidewalk and died itself it may have overheated and killed it which is why it overheats straight away now  

Similar scenario to me, my engine moved and opened the throttle but was spinning against the spur. Car was not moving it was stood still revved up. Unfortunately I wasn't quick enough to stop it and it died itself. Once cooled it started straight away again but temp went through the roof straight away. Upon dismantling there was nothing obvious but the piston liner was kinda welded to the crankcase and could not be removed even with force so it must have done some damage to the piston & liner that wasn't visible. (expanded or something)

Hopefully I'm wrong in your case but if I'm not then you may just have to get it close to a good tune as poss and run it until it goes completely. Not entirely sure it's fixable but someone may have better knowhow.

Very sad to hear it buddy  unfortunately this could be the case.  

Edited January 14, 2016 by dazp1976

[m4inbrain]

No, it died right with the hit. 

I partially dismantled it now, as far as i was comfortable with - which basically is, take the engine out, remove exhaust and clutch, air filter and cooling head/the top plate where the glow plug sits. There's, as far as i can tell, no air leaks in the engine (soap water around carb, needles, bearing at the front. The piston from top looked fine, no marks, scratches or anything - and on BDC, what i could see of the sleeve, was top as well. I can't see damage looking through the exhaust port either. Engine has top compression, if pulling the pullstart is an indication (i can basically lift the car on the pullstart, easily). 

What i did notice is that the clutch nut came loose, even though i properly torqued it on (including flywheel wrench, so it was tight tight). It wasn't off yet, but it was lose to the touch, didn't need a wrench to take it off. While that doesn't explain the overheating, it does explain the weird clutch behavior. 

What i noticed, when i changed it back to the old air filter (the restrictive one), it behaved different than with the byron one - but it didn't behave like that before. Basically, if i now floor it, all is well and stuff - if i go low throttle for a while, or idle around, huge amounts of smoke appear and more importantly, when i let go of the throttle, it almost dies. 

That's the next thing i want to understand. 

The last time i ran it, after idling a bit etc, when i floored it, just nothing really happened. It was hesitant to rev, which i was able to fix by just give it a couple of blips, after that it ran free again. I assume, that was because of a build up of fuel/oil.

Now i ran it, after idling a bit etc, when i floored it, with the byron air filter it immediately drops revs drastically to the point where it almost dies, comes back after i let throttle go, after that accelerates normal again - and with the stock air filter (more restrictive), after idling etc, it kinda launches in a big cloud of smoke, but almost dies when i let go of the throttle. The revs drop again drastically, below idle.

Why's that? I basically run 1/4 turn richer than factory settings, both HSN and LSN. 

 

edit: i have to double check tomorrow, it might be that the tank was running low when i checked for temp, the temp always rise for me massively when the tank's almost empty. Most of the time it ran around 125 degrees.

Edited January 14, 2016 by m4inbrain

[RestInPieces]

I never check my engine temps. Ive had an engine blow up on me though. A stone got caught between the fly wheel and caused it to stop dead at full throttle piston rod put a whole in my crank case [emoji28][emoji23]

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[RestInPieces]

Ordered some 125mm long 17mm big bores [emoji2] see if they work any better!

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[dazp1976]

6 minutes ago, RestInPieces said:

Ordered some 125mm long 17mm big bores see if they work any better!

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From which car may I ask? Hopefully the results are positive.

I'll have to look into it but maybe the shocks from a Losi LST could work.

[dazp1976]

49 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

No, it died right with the hit. 

Hopefully then bud it's that the clutch was running loose and the engine was running a bit free.

[everclear1984]

What weight shock oil would you guys recommend for the buggy flux? 45, 50? I'm a basher not a racer and the Trophy will spend a lot of time in the air

 

[m4inbrain]

6 minutes ago, dazp1976 said:

Hopefully then bud it's that the clutch was running loose and the engine was running a bit free.

Yeah.. 

I just don't get it why i have simultanously basically a rich and a lean state. It's set rich, it bogs when accelerating (checked, what happens is normal) - but it's running hot. I really don't want to lose confidence/trust into the car etc, because that'll sooner or later just take all the joy out.

Gonna go with a full tank tomorrow again, also leaning it out a touch (still rich side, but less so), while checking temps. And maybe go somewhere, where there's no curbs. And loctite all the things, including the bolts that hold the servo horns.