HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[TT83]

Thanks for the D8 manual, didn't know that there's compatibilities. 

Don't understand though why that gets explained in the manual for the D8 - but not in the one for the truggy. Man, this thing will be alot of work, hehe. Sadly couldn't drive today, rain. Like, alot. Obviously the day after my baby arrives. -.-

Check your radio for brake end point adjustment...

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[dazp1976]

29 minutes ago, TT83 said:

Check your radio for brake end point adjustment...

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Good point. Careful not to put too much stress on the servo tho.

Manual pages 9 & 10 here:

https://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/105386-tf40_rf40-glb-m-v1.pdf

[TT83]

Well..after some flights with the truggy...the 2 rear shocks got screwed...and to replace them I got some rear shocks from the pulse 4.6 and install them all the way around on the truggy...now need to figure the oil thickness for them...

By the way...they look WAY better then the stock ones....

Here are some pics...

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[TT83]

And here are some of the jumps...

Damn tapatalk won't let me upload videos so I did it trough YouTube...Here's the link

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[m4inbrain]

Okay, gonna sound dumb yet again..

Adjusted the brakes i think (not by that much though, since i couldn't do testdrive). Servo stress i assume is obvious by the servo humming under full brake? Doesn't do that. Funny though, i'm using the stock radio that came with it (since i got the exact same one for my drifter, no point in changing over) - and adjusting the endpoint really doesn't do that much. If i apply brakes full, and then fiddle with the endpoint, not much happens really. There's maybe a 1/4 turn where the servo moves, after that, it doesn't anymore. It doesn't make a noise either, so.. I don't know, seems weird, i'm under the assumption that the servo should make a noise. Couldn't drive it yesterday thanks to our backyard being a duck pond, today i finally get to drive again, so i'm gonna see then. 

 

edit: nice subaru in the background, tt83

Edited December 4, 2015 by m4inbrain

[TT83]

Okay, gonna sound dumb yet again..

Adjusted the brakes i think (not by that much though, since i couldn't do testdrive). Servo stress i assume is obvious by the servo humming under full brake? Doesn't do that. Funny though, i'm using the stock radio that came with it (since i got the exact same one for my drifter, no point in changing over) - and adjusting the endpoint really doesn't do that much. If i apply brakes full, and then fiddle with the endpoint, not much happens really. There's maybe a 1/4 turn where the servo moves, after that, it doesn't anymore. It doesn't make a noise either, so.. I don't know, seems weird, i'm under the assumption that the servo should make a noise. Couldn't drive it yesterday thanks to our backyard being a duck pond, today i finally get to drive again, so i'm gonna see then. 

 

edit: nice subaru in the background, tt83 [emoji14]

What Subaru???

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[m4inbrain]

Just now, TT83 said:

What Subaru???

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No idea, but you can hear a 4pot boxer in the background, so i assume it's a subaru. ^^

[dazp1976]

8 hours ago, TT83 said:

Well..after some flights with the truggy...the 2 rear shocks got screwed...and to replace them I got some rear shocks from the pulse 4.6 and install them all the way around on the truggy...now need to figure the oil thickness for them...

By the way...they look WAY better then the stock ones....

Here are some pics...

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You bit the bullet on the Pulse shocks then  I should have done it ages ago too. What size is the body on those 14 or 16mm? 

[m4inbrain]

Hm.. Small observation, now that i got my tempgauge delivered. The engine, on factory settings, goes up to 130 degrees celsius. Stopped it there, because i got scared (manual stated that above 120 it's "dangerous"). Riched the HSN by 1/4th, with body off it now runs at 99ish without body. Very rich, and it's somewhere around 13 degrees outside. 

I never played with the LSN, that's still factory setting. But considering it's idling extremely high (it goes up to 6ish km/h in idle on the ground, with factory setting), what could be the issue there? It's not the endpoints, the idle is still very high when i brake, and the gap looks completely fine to me. 

I really don't want to kill the engine, that's why i left it on factory settings (as the manual stated). I'm a bit out of ideas, i'm under the impression that a rich engine should run cool - now i have a very rich running engine in pretty cold weather, that barely does not overheat. There's no wiggleroom for tuning though, leaning it out or 20 degrees more "outside temperature" would bring it right back up to the dangerzone.

 

edit: measured it at the plug, roughly - just stuck the thermometer into the heat spreader and pressed the button.

Edited December 4, 2015 by m4inbrain

[TT83]

How much gap you have in the throttle???

If it's 1mn you are fine there...

And to adjust you LSN you need to wait until it reach it's normal ruining temperature and the HSN is set in the desirable setting...

Once it reach it's normal ruining temperature your gonna lose (counter clock wise) the LSN like 1/8 of a turn at the time...by doing this you're making it richer...let it run for a little bit before readjusted

Something very important...learn where are your factory settings for the LSN and HSN...

[m4inbrain]

1mm, roughly. In fact, it still engages clutch (barely) if i adjust idle needle out as far as i can.

[m4inbrain]

Yeah, factory settings were basically all needles flush. Manual states that as well.

I don't really wanna fiddle with the LSN yet if i don't have to, it's more about understanding the results of it. Basically, i want to understand where the high idle comes from. It can't really be the idle needle by itself, because i (not exaggerating) need to set it to a point where the engine actually doesn't start. I have to set it flush, start the engine, and then turn it out as far as i can and it still revs high enough to engage the clutch. I basically can't get it to stall even if i wanted to. The servo as far as i can tell is set correctly, the revs don't change at all if i'm on brakes. 

Now, my question would be, the LSN: how does it affect idle on rich and lean settings. Does it even have an effect on idle. 

It smokes blue, on idle, but not that much. It smokes blue alot under acceleration. Might make a small video in a bit to show what i mean (english isn't my first language, that doesn't help me explaining either ^^). 

[dazp1976]

1 hour ago, m4inbrain said:

Hm.. Small observation, now that i got my tempgauge delivered. The engine, on factory settings, goes up to 130 degrees celsius. Stopped it there, because i got scared (manual stated that above 120 it's "dangerous"). Riched the HSN by 1/4th, with body off it now runs at 99ish without body. Very rich, and it's somewhere around 13 degrees outside. 

I never played with the LSN, that's still factory setting. But considering it's idling extremely high (it goes up to 6ish km/h in idle on the ground, with factory setting), what could be the issue there? It's not the endpoints, the idle is still very high when i brake, and the gap looks completely fine to me. 

I really don't want to kill the engine, that's why i left it on factory settings (as the manual stated). I'm a bit out of ideas, i'm under the impression that a rich engine should run cool - now i have a very rich running engine in pretty cold weather, that barely does not overheat. There's no wiggleroom for tuning though, leaning it out or 20 degrees more "outside temperature" would bring it right back up to the dangerzone.

 

edit: measured it at the plug, roughly - just stuck the thermometer into the heat spreader and pressed the button.

what surface are you running on? If you're on long ish grass and wet dirt etc I'd expect higher temps, harder like gravel and pavement etc should be no issues.

My advice would be to ditch the waterproof air filter for something more open, similar to this maybe to give it more air flow::

If you did think this was an option get 2 from here or shop around for similar.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HOT-BODIES-D8T-TY-TESSMANN-EDITION-Air-Filter-D8-HDT1-/311393446375?hash=item48807ee9e7:g:gnMAAOSwT6pVkzSH

Edited December 4, 2015 by dazp1976

[m4inbrain]

Running on pavement/tarmac at the moment, for break in etc. 

Gonna go into garage now and take some pictures of carb gap and video of starting up and "factory idle". 

[m4inbrain]

Sorry for the quality, girlfriend is ill so she couldn't help there.

Picture of gap:

Video of carb working:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ft-lqqVi3wM

Video of idle is uploading at the moment, will edit it in in 10ish minutes.

edit:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBbtKAe6ENY

Idle. No idea how embedding works, so links to these is all i got. And please, spare no attention to my amazing slippers or the general state of my garage.

And that is factory settings apart from the HSN riched by 1/4th turn.

 

In theory: if i adjust the LSN a fraction, to let it run even richer, would that bring the RPM down?

Edited December 4, 2015 by m4inbrain

[dazp1976]

1 hour ago, m4inbrain said:

Sorry for the quality, girlfriend is ill so she couldn't help there.

Picture of gap:

Video of carb working:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ft-lqqVi3wM

Video of idle is uploading at the moment, will edit it in in 10ish minutes.

edit:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBbtKAe6ENY

Idle. No idea how embedding works, so links to these is all i got. And please, spare no attention to my amazing slippers or the general state of my garage.

And that is factory settings apart from the HSN riched by 1/4th turn.

 

In theory: if i adjust the LSN a fraction, to let it run even richer, would that bring the RPM down?

To be fair I don't know that much on nitro myself, it's been a while. My converted 4.6 trophy was about the same as yours when it was nitro. I wonder if having to hold it on the brakes or using a foot would cause the temps to rise as it would put added unwanted pressure on the engine. I could never get it to sit without the brakes either. I'd put it off the ground idling for a bit letting the wheels spin free and take the temp again to see if this theory might be right. Other than that yours looks and sounds fine.

Edited December 4, 2015 by dazp1976

[m4inbrain]

On factory settings, if i put it on a block with that idle, it spins the wheels so fast that it actually deforms them (they don't entirely balloon yet, but start to). Considering that they're not supposed to move at all, .. Hm. Don't know. 

edit: have to adjust brakes though, i have to at least double the efficiency of the brakes, because it's getting scary now that i build up some speed. Not impressed with the Trophy on that regard yet (at least on factory settings and adjusting the linkages by roughly 5mm). 

Edited December 4, 2015 by m4inbrain

[dazp1976]

4 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

On factory settings, if i put it on a block with that idle, it spins the wheels so fast that it actually deforms them (they don't entirely balloon yet, but start to). Considering that they're not supposed to move at all, .. Hm. Don't know. 

edit: have to adjust brakes though, i have to at least double the efficiency of the brakes, because it's getting scary now that i build up some speed. Not impressed with the Trophy on that regard yet (at least on factory settings and adjusting the linkages by roughly 5mm). 

I've always hated that clutch  even when close to stalling it annoyed me. I'd do this a few times: run it around for a bit, stop, take temp quick (don't leave idling for long). If temps are always good then just don't hold it idling for long periods. If temps are rubbish then????.

[m4inbrain]

Guess i'll do that after next runs, but brakes first. ^^

[TT83]

Sorry for the quality, girlfriend is ill so she couldn't help there.

Picture of gap:

Video of carb working:

Video of idle is uploading at the moment, will edit it in in 10ish minutes.

edit:

Idle. No idea how embedding works, so links to these is all i got. And please, spare no attention to my amazing slippers or the general state of my garage. [emoji14]

And that is factory settings apart from the HSN riched by 1/4th turn.

 

In theory: if i adjust the LSN a fraction, to let it run even richer, would that bring the RPM down?

it looks and sounds good to me...what I suggest you is to upgrade the clutch for a 3 piece one...get the needed parts out of the savage 4.6...like flywheel, nut and clutches...

I had the same problem until I upgraded the clutch...

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[m4inbrain]

Yeah, that sprung to mind too. Need to order stuff anyway like diff and shock oils, so might as well.

Another dumb question, are these engines rev limited somehow, or will it over-rev if i "push the button"? As someone who has not much experience with these, it's hard to tell what "healthy revs" sound like. Or rather, when they become unhealthy.

And of course, there's still the temperature problem. Which is interesting, everywhere i read, they say "if the heat sink sizzles when you put some spit on it, it's overheating". My heat sink is nowhere near the temperature it would need to be for that (on the top it gets roughly 90 degrees celsius, 190 fahrenheit). Do i measure it wrong? I pretty much measure directly on the plug.

[dazp1976]

1 hour ago, TT83 said:

it looks and sounds good to me...what I suggest you is to upgrade the clutch for a 3 piece one...get the needed parts out of the savage 4.6...like flywheel, nut and clutches...

I had the same problem until I upgraded the clutch...

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1 hour ago, TT83 said:

 

I would upgrade to the 3 peice clutch using the parts from the D812 or D815. The clutch bell you have will fit straight on and the flywheel is the same size.

#67525 - FLYWHEEL (3PINS/BLACK)
#86077 - COLLET 7X6.5MM (BRASS/2PCS)
#HBC8059 - FLYWHEEL NUT
#HBC8043 - 3PCS RACING CLUTCH SHOE
#HBC8045 - CLUTCH SPRINGS FOR C8043,C8043-1

Or for the alloy shoes:

#101778 - ALUM. RACING CLUTCH SHOES GUNMETAL (3PCS)
Or :#114759 - COMPETITION ALUM.
#114760 - COMPETITION CLUTCH SPRING 1.0MM (3PCS)

The Savage clutch has quite a large flywheel and you would need a Savvy clutch bell too.

Edited December 4, 2015 by dazp1976

[TT83]

There's no rev limit on this engines...but of course...if it's full throttle all the time, that will reduce the life span of the engine...but that's what they're made for anyways...plus...it's fairly cheap to rebuild those engines...

On my first engine I ran almost a gallon of fuel...but that was because the air filter fell off and it suck tons of dirt...So I rebuild it install a hose clamp in the filter, and I have ran like 2 gal of fuel so far...mostly full throttle though...

And regarding on how to measure the temp...you're doing it right...it's right in the plug

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[TT83]

The ideal temp for me it's between 220-240 Fahrenheit...and I'm using O'Donnell 20% race fuel with McCoy mc9 glow plug...

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[m4inbrain]

Well, if i'm doing it right, it's overheating. It constantly scrapes at 250-260 fahrenheit, with the body off and in 55 fahrenheit outdoor temp. Don't get it, if i lean it out eventually and the outdoor temps rise, i will ruin that engine. Running 25% HPI nitro and, well, uhm.. factory plug.

New clutch it is btw, gonna order that one soon. Funny enough, the one that they put in right from the factory is not the one that they suggest as replacement/spare. Kinda shows how much they think that clutch is worth (2shoe factory, spare part in manual already 3shoe). 

Edited December 4, 2015 by m4inbrain