HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[stevo2551]

I'm not entirely sure which needle does what as I don't do nitro, but I remember reading on a thread that you can have the hs or ls needle set wrong and this gives can give out a faulse idle screw settings. If you don't have any luck, try resetting the needles to factory (flush on most I think) and starting the tune process again?

[dazp1976]

I'm not entirely sure which needle does what as I don't do nitro, but I remember reading on a thread that you can have the hs or ls needle set wrong and this gives can give out a faulse idle screw settings. If you don't have any luck, try resetting the needles to factory (flush on most I think) and starting the tune process again?

Just had a look in the book and the setting for both lsn - hsn is flush and idle gap of 1mm at factory setting. It will most likely be quite rich if already broken in so I would possibly go half a turn clockwise lean from flush setting on lsn - hsn and go from there. Hopefully it gets you close and your engine hasn't gone bad

https://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/101872_trophy_46_truggy_glb_m_v1.pdf

Page 15

Edited May 1, 2015 by dazp1976

[Shiesty2000]

Need some advice on nitro here. The engine starts and then idles at a pretty high note. The car runs fine and stops but the idle won't go down. If I turn the idle screw out then the engine just cuts out it doesn't lower the idke

Sounds like the low speed needle is too lean. Make sure it's wormed up and then turn the low speed needle 1/8 of a turn counter clockwise, then do a few laps and see how it is. If it's still high adjust another 1/8 of a turn. You might have to reset ur idle after this is done

[dazp1976]

For those peeps who's pinion's and diff pinion output joints come loose  grrrrrrrr! If you look at the grub screws some of them only grab around the outer edge and kinda look like they have a inverted point in the center like so:

These are c**p and slip all the time.

Buy slightly longer ones and grind them flat like so:

No more problems.

[TT83]

Hey guys...it's time for me to do some more maintenance on my Truggy...what oil thickness did you recommend on the differentials...???

Thanks in advance...

bashing time!!!

[stevo2551]

Diff oils come down to personal preference and driving style, racers will use different to bashers as you can complety change the handling characteristics. Buggies will differ slightly to truggys as well due to weight difference, I run a buggy flux and I have 7k front, 10k center, 5k rear in mine and the fronts don't balloon like they used to with the std grease and it's quite tail happy with 5k in the rear, it will lift the front up and wheelie, but not like a savage does. I think other opinions would be quite similar, but possibly 100k in the center with it being a truggy.

I'm sure someone with a truggy and knowledge will be along soon :-D

[TT83]

Diff oils come down to personal preference and driving style, racers will use different to bashers as you can complety change the handling characteristics. Buggies will differ slightly to truggys as well due to weight difference, I run a buggy flux and I have 7k front, 10k center, 5k rear in mine and the fronts don't balloon like they used to with the std grease and it's quite tail happy with 5k in the rear, it will lift the front up and wheelie, but not like a savage does. I think other opinions would be quite similar, but possibly 100k in the center with it being a truggy.

I'm sure someone with a truggy and knowledge will be along soon :-D

Thanks stevo...I really appreciate the response...

I only bash with my truggy because I don't have any nitro tracks around me...

Does any one else would like to share what diff oil are you running on your truggys???

Thanks guys...

bashing time!!!

[pug=309]

Hey, well i contacted hpi when i came to replace the oil in my diff's as at the time i liked how the truggy acted, they replyed front/rear 1000 and center 4000 i have a locked center diff so i went with the front and rear, i still do kind of like how it drives, quite compliant though you can still send it doughnut mad whenever you want but im thinking about going up to 200 in the rear to make it a little more rwd like.

 

The advice i was given here was to find out what stock oils are and then go up/down a thousand or 2 at a time till you get what you want, it is a bit trail and error but that's ultimately the best way to get the desired driving characteristics

 

Hope that helps in some way

 

 

Allan

[dazp1976]

Hey, well i contacted hpi when i came to replace the oil in my diff's as at the time i liked how the truggy acted, they replyed front/rear 1000 and center 4000 i have a locked center diff so i went with the front and rear, i still do kind of like how it drives, quite compliant though you can still send it doughnut mad whenever you want but im thinking about going up to 200 in the rear to make it a little more rwd like.

 

The advice i was given here was to find out what stock oils are and then go up/down a thousand or 2 at a time till you get what you want, it is a bit trail and error but that's ultimately the best way to get the desired driving characteristics

 

Hope that helps in some way

 

 

Allan

Trophy stock f/r diffs are greased not oiled which is the equivalent of 1000w only the center comes with oil. Nice to know the stock weight on center tho.

At the mo I'm running 10k front, 20k center, 7k rear. Seems pretty good so far. I was running 30k center but with softer rear shock setting it kept lifting the front and losing steering.

I hear a general starting point on the Truggy is 7k front 10k center 5k rear and then just go up in the center for jumping and wheelies etc and 10k or lower for racing.

I found going higher than 10 in the rear kept spinning me out on grass but was fine on road, going lower than 5 cooked it a little with my heavy trigger finger.

Didn't notice much difference with the front between 7-15

[TT83]

thank you guys...I really appreciate the info...

bashing time!!!

[pug=309]

. Nice to know the stock weight on center tho.

 

At the mo I'm running 10k front, 20k center, 7k rear. Seems pretty good so far. I was running 30k center but with softer rear shock setting it kept lifting the front and losing steering.

I hear a general starting point on the Truggy is 7k front 10k center 5k rear and then just go up in the center for jumping and wheelies etc and 10k or lower for racing.

I found going higher than 10 in the rear kept spinning me out on grass but was fine on road, going lower than 5 cooked it a little with my heavy trigger finger.

Didn't notice much difference with the front between 7-15

 

Those weights are for the hot bodies lightning stadium pro (that's where my front and rear diff came from)which are all oil diffs.

 

What are the handling characteristics of the car with your current setup?

 

 

Allan

[stevo2551]

My buggys rather tail happy with 7k front 10k center and 5k rear, I like it as it is, but I think it would be a but bob for racing as the tail comes round when I lift off throttle before a corner (fun but not as fast, especially if it does a doughnut on the apex of the last corner haha)

I imagine I could adjust other parameters, I'm not sure how the drag brake is set on the esc as this would cause the back end to do similar...

[dazp1976]

My buggys rather tail happy with 7k front 10k center and 5k rear, I like it as it is, but I think it would be a but bob for racing as the tail comes round when I lift off throttle before a corner (fun but not as fast, especially if it does a doughnut on the apex of the last corner haha)

I imagine I could adjust other parameters, I'm not sure how the drag brake is set on the esc as this would cause the back end to do similar...

Sounds about right for a buggy. Race setup is probably 7f 7c 3-5r maybe as low as 5c. The lower center puts a little more power to the front to keep the tail in check. (so I read)  

Could be right about the drag brake.

[TT83]

So lately I was having trouble with my truggy...it was dying on idle...so I took it apart and I found this...LOL

I think it's time for an upgrade...

bashing time!!!

[pug=309]

Yeah done that a few times before i changed back to a 3 shoe clutch

 

 

 

Allan

[Shiesty2000]

So I have 2 issues right now that I'm trying to figure out. #1 is for some reason when the truggy is at operating temp the idle surges and causes the clutch to engage. If I mess with the low speed needle it will stop surging until I run the car and stop and it will do it again.

#2 the front tires balloon really badly. Is there another alternative besides taping the tires? I don't want to take them apart

[stevo2551]

Not sure on #1, but #2 you could strip your front diff and put some thicker oil in, but that's as much effort as splitting wheels if not more.

got a few bits and bobs from the shop today and a 17t pinion to fit and try over the next couple of days

Edited May 9, 2015 by stevo2551

[dazp1976]

So I have 2 issues right now that I'm trying to figure out. #1 is for some reason when the truggy is at operating temp the idle surges and causes the clutch to engage. If I mess with the low speed needle it will stop surging until I run the car and stop and it will do it again.

#2 the front tires balloon really badly. Is there another alternative besides taping the tires? I don't want to take them apart

Don't know about engine issue. Put heavier weight oil in your center diff. I use 20k center. If you have never changed it then I was told the stock weight is 4k which is low for a Truggy.

[dazp1976]

Dropped a right clanger last week

Had finished charging and when I took the + bullet connector off I dropped it on the psu, gave a pretty big spark and killed it. Been using this ATX bodge for over a year. Anyhoo, I got another out the loft and rigged that up and all powered on yay. But...... went to charge today and charger comes up with "connection break". Damned arc took out the charger too. Powers up but won't charge. Power supply is fine so it is the connection from battery to charger. Must have blown a cap or something.

So miserable right now Thinking of just selling up.

[Shiesty2000]

Right now I have 7k front 10k center 3k rear. U think I should put 20k in center?

[stevo2551]

Right now I have 7k front 10k center 3k rear. U think I should put 20k in center?

If it's already changed, there's no harm in giving it a test run to compare to when/if you change to 20k.

I'm not a nitro person, but on our trials bikes we get an erratic idle when fuel runs very low and the air/fuel mix changes (a few seconds/minute before it cuts out) does it run ok or does it not really move? I'm thinking maybe either air getting into your system from somewere, maybe a leaky fuel tank, fuel hose not as tight as could be on one of the connections, or maybe even a bit of slop in the carb?

[stevo2551]

Dropped a right clanger last week

Had finished charging and when I took the + bullet connector off I dropped it on the psu, gave a pretty big spark and killed it. Been using this ATX bodge for over a year. Anyhoo, I got another out the loft and rigged that up and all powered on yay. But...... went to charge today and charger comes up with "connection break". Damned arc took out the charger too. Powers up but won't charge. Power supply is fine so it is the connection from battery to charger. Must have blown a cap or something.

So miserable right now Thinking of just selling up.

That's unlucky bud, I never really understood the chargers/psu's although I know how to work it, my charger seems like it rubs off a laptop power supply? I have 2 matching b6 chargers but one says connection break every time....just takes a bit longer to charge all the batterys before an outing lol

[dazp1976]

That's unlucky bud, I never really understood the chargers/psu's although I know how to work it, my charger seems like it rubs off a laptop power supply? I have 2 matching b6 chargers but one says connection break every time....just takes a bit longer to charge all the batterys before an outing lol

The Imax isn't really an option for 6s you wait all day. Cost me

Edited May 10, 2015 by dazp1976

[Shiesty2000]

If it's already changed, there's no harm in giving it a test run to compare to when/if you change to 20k.

I'm not a nitro person, but on our trials bikes we get an erratic idle when fuel runs very low and the air/fuel mix changes (a few seconds/minute before it cuts out) does it run ok or does it not really move? I'm thinking maybe either air getting into your system from somewere, maybe a leaky fuel tank, fuel hose not as tight as could be on one of the connections, or maybe even a bit of slop in the carb?

It runs great when under throttle it's when I stop that the idle surges. Maybe I'll seal the engine and its an air leak like u suggested.

[TT83]

So I have 2 issues right now that I'm trying to figure out. #1 is for some reason when the truggy is at operating temp the idle surges and causes the clutch to engage. If I mess with the low speed needle it will stop surging until I run the car and stop and it will do it again.

#2 the front tires balloon really badly. Is there another alternative besides taping the tires? I don't want to take them apart

On #1 sounds like you have an air leak...

And I'm currently working on #2

bashing time!!!