Thunder Tiger SSK construction help

[snake eyes]

Hi all

I built up a Thunder tiger SSK a few years ago through a magazine subscription. My SSK ran very well for a while.

Just the other day i decided I am now going to put on the Performance parts (that in essence make the SSK the SSKv2) so took the car apart and started putting on the new parts. Iwas on a roll until to my horror I found i was missing issue 82 O_O

I managed to find a local supplier of the parts that come with that issue (which i ordered and got today) so parts are there...

I started putting the clutch bell housing assembly together but mine is a bit stiff so I somewhere have the wrong order of things so want to look at issu 82 for clarification.

What I need to know is if someone else was building the SSK up through the mags or if they half built and are willing to sell me/send me issue 82.

OR

Could they send me a digital copy of issue 82 like a PDF or scans or pics. Anything will help

[R46]

hi welcome to forum, >>>heres part list<<< pdf

[snake eyes]

Hi there, thanx for taking the time out to take a look at this, but I already have a part list... There's just some things that are not clear to me putting the assembly together as there seems to be sleight differences between what you supposed to get and what i got when i ordered the parts. so, was hopping to double check with issue 82.

and the add on parts turn the SSK that you get through the mag into the SSK v2

Edited February 7, 2010 by snake eyes

[R46]

the v2 has 2 speed gearbox, PRO 18 engine, NEW blue aluminium chassis, transmission brace and servo saver top plate, metal front hubs, metal geared steering servo, sealed receiver/battery box.

whats parts did you order? all need to do to yours is get battery box an 2 speed! alloy hubs if/when break em. what was mag called?

[snake eyes]

I got the issue with 2 speed clutch and bellhousing (this is what you get with issue 82) if I assemble it (bellhousing, bearing, 2 washers, screw) then the whole assembly is stiff. if i had issue 82 it would clearify things for me. surely i am doing something wrong. the mag was release a couple of years back through hachette. <a href='http://www.hachettepartworks.com/product.php?proID=1116420403' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://www.hachettep...roID=1116420403</a>

Edited February 7, 2010 by snake eyes

[R46]

heres ssk v2 manual with pics etc

[Icyjester]

Hi Snake eyes. I did the same thing as you with the magazine but stopped buying it when it was complete. Some time after I dropped on the 2 speed bits and bobs only to find you need the V2 chassis as well.

Did you get the new chassis on the mag?

Cheers,

Rob.

[snake eyes]

Hi Snake eyes. I did the same thing as you with the magazine but stopped buying it when it was complete. Some time after I dropped on the 2 speed bits and bobs only to find you need the V2 chassis as well. Did you get the new chassis on the mag?

you actually dont get a new chassis, but they give you this plastic guide to drill into your current chassis 2 new holes (they are about 2mm away from 2 existing holes)

oh...thank you all for the advice and help.

My SSK v2 is now up and running I still haveto run 2 tanks of nitro through it to break it in...

I found out what was wrong with my clutch assembly. I just had to add another washer, in the book they show that you get 3 washers but in the pack I ordered, there was only 2. So had to go down to the local hobby shop and go fetch another washer and all is well now

Edited February 22, 2010 by snake eyes

[Icyjester]

Thanks for the info Snake Eyes, glad your up and running

I know this is a big ask but I dont suppose you still have the guide? If so, is there any chance I could borrow it please? Obviously Ill pay for the postage...

Cheers,

Rob.

PS: Took mine out in the snow yesterday and broke a gear in the rear diff. Had to buy the whole bloody diff assembly to repair it

[snake eyes]

<br />Thanks for the info Snake Eyes, glad your up and running <img src='http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='' /><br /><br />I know this is a big ask but I dont suppose you still have the guide? If so, is there any chance I could borrow it please? Obviously Ill pay for the postage...<br /><br />Cheers,<br />Rob.<br /><br />PS: Took mine out in the snow yesterday and broke a gear in the rear diff. Had to buy the whole bloody diff assembly to repair it <img src='http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='' /><br /><br /><br />

<br /><br /><br />

how do u break a gear in the diff?? the teeth are metal O_O

I might need to buy a new diff assembly housing soon. the metal rod that the two gears inside the diff are starting to chew into the plastic of the housing

I could send it your way, I'm in South Africa, and haven't sent anything away yet to anywhere...so will be my first time doing it...lol

I will let you know when we can organize as I am VERY busy at work at the mo

[Icyjester]

Hehe, it was one of the bevel gears that has the drive shaft cups attached to them. It must have been going for a while cos the teeth are knackered

That would be cool if you could send it, just drop me an email when your not busy and ill give you my address.

[email protected]

Cheers,

Rob.

[lee67]

<br /><br /><br />

how do u break a gear in the diff?? the teeth are metal O_O

I might need to buy a new diff assembly housing soon. the metal rod that the two gears inside the diff are starting to chew into the plastic of the housing

I could send it your way, I'm in South Africa, and haven't sent anything away yet to anywhere...so will be my first time doing it...lol

I will let you know when we can organize as I am VERY busy at work at the mo

stripped diffs are common.....i had to rebuild mine other week....

[grumpygramps]

Hi guys,

While your on the SSK topic, I'm having a little issue at the moment. I have the V2 version, came to me recently with quite a few other vehicles in a bulk buy. One of the front steering blocks was broken (arm snapped off) and I got a pair of new ones but didn't think to order new bushings, as I thought that the ones in there would simply slip out (the car has only been run once and they are not warn). Things is I don't seem to be able to be able to get them out no matter what I try (they don't just slip out like bearings usually do, and are firmly wedged into the alloy blocks it seems). Any tips at all you could suggest, or will I have to bite the bullet and have to shell out the huge sum of about

[snake eyes]

which gear did you strip?

if you look at this pic... the bar/rod (circled in red) has started biting into the plastic housing (circled in blue)so i might need to replace that soon

[Icyjester]

I stripped the one directly to the left of the part you marked in red. I tried to mark it like you had but couldnt work it out...Duh

RE the 2 speed gearbox thing, I just dug out all the bits and realised im missing a few other parts. I will need shorter prop shafts and also the top plate as the old one snags on the new gears. I honestly dont see how you can convert the V1 to 2 speed at all tbh, after building the new box and sitting it on the chassis I also realised it snags on the servo mounts as well as the fuel tank.

Am I wrong here Snake or have you got the V2 chassis? Has anyone on here done this conversion??

Cheers,

Rob.

[snake eyes]

how many issues did you miss rob???

you use the same chassis as the one you got early on in the collection. you dont get given another one.

in one of the other issues you get given shorter drive shafts, and in another you are given a blue anodized steel top brace. not sure about the servo mounts, but in another issue they instruct you to make a small cut in the receiver housing.

I cant check what issues right now as i am at work

[Icyjester]

I stopped buying the mag when the car was complete. A while after I bought the 2 speed box and bell housing for the motor. It was advertised as an upgrade kit and came with a few of the mags needed to assemble the box. Obviously now I know I was robbed since its missing prop shafts and the top plate. I didnt realise you had to cut the rceiver box?? Ill have to see if its in any of the mags I have. If you could look too Snake, Id appreciate it.

It all seems a bit much messing about but since I have about

[snake eyes]

the ENTIRE collection (including the performace parts/issues) comes to 87 issues... so how many are you missing?

[Icyjester]

Hi Snake,

I have issues 1 - 75 then 80 - 82. I just ordered the anodised top brace set and short centre shafts so I think I am good to go?

Can you find that issue with the instructions for the reciever box mod? If you could get me a scan of it my life would be sooo much easier

Cheers,

Rob.

[snake eyes]

i haveto scan a whole lot of them for another guy, so I will send it to you as soon as i have done it...

just SUPER busy at work at the moment, so gona be a lil while

[Icyjester]

No worries buddy, Very much appreciated!

Cheers,

Rob.

[Icyjester]

Ok, so I get the parts I need to do the two speed conversion. Chassis drilled, gearbox mounted, new blue strut brace fitted nice. I offer the engine up to the chassis and only one gear meshes and the mounting holes don't line up! Anyone got any ideas for me? I'm starting to get seriously ****** off now

Rob.

[snake eyes]

did you get the drilling guide????

[Icyjester]

I found a template in with all the stuff I bought originally, it just showed extra holes for the centre diff mounts. Still have the issue with the pinions not meshing with the diff even if I movend the engine mounts...

Rob.

[NilSatis]

I seem to remember with the two speed it was very easy to put the two halves of the centre gearbox unit the wrong way around. I think i remember this caused issues with it. I.e they fitted in the holes but did not want to mesh properly once all put together; I can get some photos of mine up here if you like? It is a v2, with two speed. You need to make sure you have all the correct bits for the v2 and not a mixture of both too! The pinion gears in the diff are some of the most basic pieces of poop i have ever seen being that the actual gear screws on to the shaft. This is what goes wrong here, this gets loose, clearance is buggered and shafted gears or gear case results. Answer. Buy new sets and use RED loctite on them and torque them up as hard as possible (i.e. when you get this right you wont ever need to take these bits off) and as long as the diffs are shimmed will work fine.

The manuals are terrible and in fact the two speed arrangement was wrong in the book (this is from a couple of years ago but still....I got a 2 speed replacement and this was wrong, got another and they had corrected it but failed to tell people it was wrong before). If you look at a photo of a working one lol you are half way there. Any help needed drop me a pm.

To the poster above re the bushings, those cast knuckles are so nasty they will have probably pinched the bushings in there after being broken off. Go and get your self a bearing kit for it or contact Alan (bearings4u) who can get anything bearing wise at a more reasonable price than you will find elsewhere. The bearings fit in the knuckles better and wont wear so much causing even more slop lol Provide less rolling resistance so the truck goes noticeably faster and doesnt bind up on hard cornering when the driveshafts want to poke out the knuckles

Dont know about the conversion, but as far as i an see there would be no need to cut the receiver box. Actually i think you need a completely new receiver box for the v2. Pic of chassis holes below and driveshaft set up

If you have got the build right the front driveshaft is almost touching (i mean a gnats c**k away from) the silver servo tray.

I can take some more pics but would have to load them on photobucket. Let me know what you need pics of!

Is actually a good 1/10 basher if you can drive well and avoid heavy crashes. Is also very quick with the .18 engine in. Just a bit fragile if you crash. The two speed is great and really helps it get to top speed, just be sure to be careful setting it to the correct amount of tension (with the adjustment grub screw) so the 2 speed clutch can engage. That bit is fuuuuun. Make sure it is set to where you think it should be before going on the truck. It is easy to access on the truck but you might aswell try to get it right first, otherwise it wont change and you wont know whether it is likely you need it to shift earlier or later for it to shift at all.

For shocks I used four factory team tmaxx shocks i had lying around. They are blue ( ), infinitely better than the stock ones (whicha arent bad...they work fine) and have metal shock tops. The thunder tiger .18 engine is a cracker in this; if you havent got one try to get one cheap!

The correct way for the clutch changer to face if looking towards the hole in the gearbox is (when holding the spur gears and rolling the car FORWARD)the set screw will appear first, and then your adjustment screw. You can tell it should be this way due to the way you access the screw; if it was the other way around lol you cant get to adjust it easily. Make sure you do this part slowly and get it right to avoid headaches!

Edited February 25, 2010 by NilSatis