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grumpygramps

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Everything posted by grumpygramps

  1. BUMP! Some bits sold (as marked on first post), remainder of bits still up for grabs and they need to go... Offers please? Cheers, Lawrence.
  2. Sorry guys, that was rubbish... Thought I'd cleared some of the inbox, but obviously not. PM's sent to you all now and my inbox is emptied.
  3. Hi! I've got a whole load of goodies up for grabs. First lot is a bunch of Tamiya TT-01 upgrades. They include genuine Tamiya TRF alloy lower arms, uprights, centre driveshaft and adjustable steering arms. All in near mint condition - were fitted to a TT-01 I had, but only run once before I decided that the car wasn't for me.. Someone on here had them imported from Japan, and, being Tamiya, they cost a fair bit of cash. I'd be happy with
  4. Yep, they add about an inch to the width. It's a good mod for the standard flux too, as it makes them that bit more stable. You need to have SHD driveshafts and diff cups as well, btw.
  5. There's quite a few bits that are different, on the way from 25 to XL.. Apart from the TVP's being about 60mm longer, the bulkheads (now 'easy access', so you don't have to take the whole truck apart to get to the diffs), bumpers and most of the plastics have been updated. Drivetrain wise, there are Super Heavy Duty diff shafts, drive shafts and extended axles, plus a whole load of other bits which are up to taking more abuse. HPI do a complete kit (part number 102534, about
  6. Cheers for the replies chaps! It'll be running on very short grass and dead flat surfaces like staging, maybe having to negotiate its way over the odd bit of cabling. The suspension conversion kit is the proper HPI one for the savvy http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=87245 which'll make things a bit less likely to break and slightly more stable, I hope! We'll be bolting the 'cloud' straight onto the TVP's, using a frame made from welded 20x20x3mm mild steel angle bar, which should be plenty strong enough. Savage + loads of extra weight + lots of speed + drunken fools at festivals = very bad things!! Changing the gearing and fiddling with the curves on the ESC should help things speed wise, and gear the motor so it's under less strain with the bigger load to carry about. Yep, servo and spring are a coming, got an Ace 1015, hadn't thought about replacing the bushing though, will have a look through the parts box for a suitable bearing Have been thinking about the shocks thing, and the fact that they'll be bottoming out, or incredibly stiff, so likely to bend shafts.. Can't fit 4 on the front with the suspension conversion kit on, unless I attempt a mod to get the second set mounted onto a different position on the lower arm... Will put some pics up when the shell is ready - just now the mold is still being finished, should be within the week. Well, it needs to be reliable, strong and have enough power/size to easily manage the big load, plus I love savvy's and know how to pull them apart quickly, so it was the obvious choice!! I'm going to be using it for my own purposes as well, so there was no decision really.
  7. Bit of an odd one this! I'm helping to build a radio controlled 'cloud', using my Savage Flux HP as the base vehicle, with various odd things on it (taxidermy'd rats dressed as angels and a mini 12v sound system..!), which we're going to use to amuse people at a few festivals over the summer. The cloud is made from fibreglass, and along with the other bits weighs about 8kgs, but that load might increase by a couple of KG's, as we've not fully built the sub frame to attach it to the truck yet. At the moment the truck is completely stock, apart from the suspension conversion kit, and I'm trying to work out what else I need to do to prepare for the massive increase in weight, and need to go quite slow (15mph max). So, can anyone suggest what gearing I might want to use, on 4s? I'm thinking about dropping the pinion size to 12t and raising spur gear to 52t - would that do the trick...? I'm going to have a good play about with throttle curves etc, with the ESC. Other things I guess I'll need to do is get one of the HD servo saver springs, and a higher torque servo, to get the front wheels to turn properly. Anyone got any ideas about things that I might've overlooked, or suggestions to stop the thing breaking down with the added weight..? Thank in advance, Lawrence
  8. This is what my old one looked like with a Proline Desert Rat S/C body on. It was XL length btw - think that most of them are too long for a normal length savvy.
  9. No worries pal Had to stop myself from launching into a rant about other material properties to bore everyone to sleep with there... That last vid looked great btw
  10. Proline do a bunch of short course and desert truck bodies that'll fit on an XL, all very well made from thick lexan - http://prolineracing.com/short-course-desert-truck-bodies (VW bug's won't, unfortunately..). The wheel arches will probably need trimming, depending on what wheels/tyres you're using.
  11. I reckon the HPI A720 alloy BB's are a great option http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HPI-Racing-1-8-Savage-X-Monster-Truck-Aluminium-Big-Bore-Shock-Set-4pcs-A720-/261046067898?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3cc78ee2ba, with Hellfire alloy caps http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HPI-Racing-Hellfire-Top-Shock-Cap-Purple-86542-NIB-/330842809067?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D7451224515103014587%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D9%26sd%3D251251360615%26, if you want alloy shocks... They're smoother than the regular BB's, with TiNi coated shafts, and a fair amount tougher, without the massive weight that the IRC's carry.
  12. I was thinking the same thing, about having such a heavy motor supported by only two screws.. Wonder if you could get something along the lines of the Tekno motor mounts http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr4142x-42mm-v3v4-motor-mount-cnc-alum-black-ano-for-castletekin-motors-lightened/ to use..?
  13. I'm gonna have to stop looking at this thread, it's got me properly drawling! Looks even more awesome with the SPI's and FLM's. Wonder how much weight you've actually lost by getting rid of the motor mounting plate, clamps and tranny etc, by using the centre diff - must be quite a bit, be interesting to find out. Also interesting to hear you mention about the FLM's taking a good bashing. I always worried when I got them about possible failure, with that funny bit that's almost missing out of one side, so got the Alza's instead. The FLM's do weigh a whole lot less and look loads prettier - I almost wonder now if the extra weight that the Alza'a carry is actually necessary.. What do you reckon? Cheers, Lawrence.
  14. Hey Russell, The Flux shocks are the same ones as on the new Savage X - the Big Bores (part number HPI 102365). The older X's and previous models had 8 smaller bore shocks though, which you don't want. Hope that helps
  15. Cheers guys, going for the set that's on sale here, which was a very happy coincidence! Sorry to hijack the thread, btw...
  16. Wow, nice work, and I'm very, very jealous!! Truck looks amazing and I'm sitting here with the stock Flux HP that I got recently, wishing I hadn't sold all of my old bits on.. Nevermind, at least they're being used now! Would love to see the beast in action with the new centre diff sorted - I'm looking at getting one for mine, along with a load of other upgrades, surprisingly.. Been looking for the Racing Suspension Conversion kit, but doesn't look like you can get them anymore - what's going on there?! Also, has Alza stopped doing the alloy battery box mounts now? The shell is the Proline Desert Rat, btw, as Norco suggested. Have fun
  17. Do you still have the rear centre driveshaft..? Cheers
  18. You can always upgrade the TVP's and driveshafts to XL size once you've had a play with it stock length, it's an easy step once you're set which ones you're going for. They're great fun without being XL though - more maneuverable in the air and easy to wheelie, but not as stable at speed.
  19. If the truck's back together - take one of the TVP's off and the rear bulkhead assembly, take the rear drive shaft out, then you you can get to the back of the tranny to put the piston in (after the lever..). Think that's about the easiest way!
  20. No worries mate, always best to make sure I think that I bought 3 secondhand savvy's before I managed to get a whole working one together.. You lives and you learns!!
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