NilSatis

Please see my ebay auctions for multiple nitro rcs for sale. I am an honest seller and can be asked any questions you like. While there are no bids on the items I may sell for the right offer too. More nitros to come including lst2, mgt, schumacher havoc, hot bodies lightning, hong nor crt etc. Multiple engines also available, please let me know what you want, some small block and some big blocks. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/bigbrowndougie/m.html?item=322598919522&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 Payment can be made by paypal or cash on collection if you want to come and see the item in person. Im from Camberley, Surrey; am an old maxbashing rc vet. **Just sold Schumacher menace, please see feedback and item for an idea of condition**

Loved the vid of it.......and that IS a wideboy!! Bloody hell the brakes are a bit fierce...but thats better than fade to no brakes you get off the nitro one after some long running! Tbh my output cups had hardcore red threadlock on them from the clever people at the Losi factory. Blue should do the trick nicely without getting the blowtorch out to undo them! Love it! The skinny moabs just add to the wideboy stance.

Nice Pics!!

Ahhh the maiden run went well did it mate?! What a lovely day for it lol...... Love the build thread mate, she looks like a beast... speak later dude!

Omg......i havent been on here in ages and have now seen this. Didnt even know the bloke in person but just through this forum knew what sort of a guy he was. My thoughts go out to his family and of course hope youre in a good place up there Carl. Always friendly, always genuine, and always ready to help anyone. My wish is that there were more like you mate. RIP. Your help and kindness wont be forgotten. Pete.

Looks sick mate.... lovin the idea so far!!!

Brilliant mate, have bred tropical fish for years, but these look great, appreciate the hard work and dedication it takes to get it done right; good on you! Piccies of the new beauty when he/she arrives!!!

Obvious things might be something is binding on that side, or there is something slightly bent in the shock mounting arrangment on that side. Have you replaced the whole shock 3 times? If so then something is weird! Ive never had a revo (sniff) but every time i have blown seals on jumps on MTs it has been for one of these reasons a) too much preload (increases force on shock) too hard spring (increases force on shock) c) crap shocks (not your problem!) d) too heavy weight of oil (30wt is perfect) e) wear in the shock (could be but not three!) f) shock not put together correctly and bled correctly. (dunno about this mate, but im sure you know how to install shocks etc but just in case ...removing all the air bubbles is critical to them working for big jumps though and any airlocks in there small or large and seals will be blown etc. on big jumps. My losi LST shocks like to sit for 10-15 mins with the oil in them after manually removing air bubbles but they are big suckers...more air will appear after that period and needs to be removed again. If I dont do this they are not smooth, have the wrong rebound on the pistons and if exposed to big pressure (i.e. jumps) will blow. g) bad landings h) Turnbuckles set up wrongly causing shocks not to work correctly I found around a certain height no amount of set up will save the shocks...dunno how high you're jumping! Hope ya find whats up

Also other side of the coin; most of the time the seller has no concept of whether it is working correctly or not. You can simply get a good bargain by banking on people not understanding why an engine is not "firing" and therefore thinking its broken; and in the same way a real dud! He may tell you it is perfectly fine not understanding compression etc as above. so you need to learn yourself and as above a) get pictures and post them on here or get an expert to look at it with you. If the engine is out, hold by the flywheel and see how long it takes for the engine to turn itself over on its own compression; if it wont stay put for more than 2 seconds or so then it is most likely a worn p and l but there are a minefield of problems in these engines that a novice wouldnt spot first time; that you would spot straight away after some experience. There are backplate issues, conrod wear, pullstart issues, crank pin wear, air leaks aswell as the usual compression loss as the engine is used. These engines are "wearing out" as they are "run in" but think glass half full not half empty lol. A new engine will need to be broken in but your problem will lie in doing this rather than problem solving on a bit of equipment you know nothing about...trust me have learnt the hard way at first; unless you have some experience or are a patient bloke with time on his hands to learn i would ditch the 2nd hand engine idea and get something new. The bearings also need to be correctly maintained and for me 9/10 unless i am spending a pitance or i know the seller or can guess his word is good then i would steer clear of 2nd hand engines that will give a bad taste in the mouth for the hobby and generally drive you away!

I could have a list of those cars i wouldnt touch with a bargepole now too, but the unfortunate thing is i did and they are in my loft...ugh.

Lol I found a bit of remains the other day..the only memory from a Kyosho Ultima Rb Sports 2wd buggy I had as a first rc car. A wheel bushing, plastic and made of the same compund as christmas tree ornaments. (This was obviously after the one i got as a present from my parents when i was about 5 with a bloody wire attached to it! They wonder why im slightly mad on rc cars now...it was your fault! The disappointment in an early age was very apparent even at that time! Countless Electric Rc cars later......) The Kyosho was a brilliant little buggy with a gx.15 engine, 2wd; and not much to it! It was rather easy to tune etc with a one needle carb but it prepared me little with its "first time pull" starting for the horror of my second car, the Nanda Raptor. Where do I start with that.....? Needless to say with just the name people with them shudder in fear and rememberance of the issues they have had and the lack of joy in TVP design; and most critically getting to the worst engineered rc gearbox i have ever encountered. This truck was all about bad gear changes and sorting it out and basically redesigning a fundamental flaw that stopped it working properly. I had tons of problems with the gearbox, but it remained the fastest monster truck i have ever had and was a great size; Savage XL size. Strangely i loved and still love that truck. Remembering bashes and being the clear fastest out of all the mts on maxbashing track for 10 mins until something a) fell off or broke in the drivetrain. With the stock .27 Toki pos engine that lasted 3-4 gallons before eating both its bearings it registered 48mph on a Bushnell speed gun down at Blackbushe! (this may be why it ate its bearings or the fact that i didnt understand back in the Ultima days that 16%/25% fuel is not the same for all manufacturers! Lol....you live and learn or if youre the Raptors engine you just learn! Anyone out there with one and needs some help i have a (unwilling) high knowledge level of the inner workings of the gearbox of the raptor; it didnt help as there was one fix that beat everything that involved ca glue! Something i never really could fathom was why every other truck since then has ahad a 2 or 3 speed system that has worked pretty much flawlessly ever since. Good old Nanda! Since then i bought a HB Lightning, and the addiction was only just begining....20 odd trucks and buggys were to follow and do i think im done yet?

Yeah, 'tis true... Ive never been "lucky" enough to get a hole in the side of one of my crankcases...my engines "wear" is always without fail some wear on the big end of the conrod, but critically zero compression from piston and liner. I have never had a conrod go; in 10 or so years of this....only because my engines compression is always so low by this time the thing wont run long enough to become the bomb i want it to be! Generally this is why i avoid repinching etc. as my conrod always has a fairbit of play in it by the time I come to have to replace p and l and then it gets expensive to do the rod aswell. So its normally bye bye engine unless its a race 'un. I have had bearings go, inner races and balls, piston skirts snapping; massive play in the bushes but never a conrod going. (goes outside quietly with half dead team infinity .18) But things will change!

Hello Dan Not sure if you got my post but i would not just buy a new conrod and chuck it on that crank in that state! I would buy a complete new engine; after checking with your lhs that the crank should not be like it is....or alternatively look on Ebay for the crankshaft, conrod, piston and liner. They are pretty cheap, you wont get it today but some places will do it in a few days. There are spares for that engine all over Ebay and quite cheap too.