NilSatis

Please see my ebay auctions for multiple nitro rcs for sale. I am an honest seller and can be asked any questions you like. While there are no bids on the items I may sell for the right offer too. More nitros to come including lst2, mgt, schumacher havoc, hot bodies lightning, hong nor crt etc. Multiple engines also available, please let me know what you want, some small block and some big blocks. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/bigbrowndougie/m.html?item=322598919522&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562 Payment can be made by paypal or cash on collection if you want to come and see the item in person. Im from Camberley, Surrey; am an old maxbashing rc vet. **Just sold Schumacher menace, please see feedback and item for an idea of condition**

Loved the vid of it.......and that IS a wideboy!! Bloody hell the brakes are a bit fierce...but thats better than fade to no brakes you get off the nitro one after some long running! Tbh my output cups had hardcore red threadlock on them from the clever people at the Losi factory. Blue should do the trick nicely without getting the blowtorch out to undo them! Love it! The skinny moabs just add to the wideboy stance.

Nice Pics!!

Ahhh the maiden run went well did it mate?! What a lovely day for it lol...... Love the build thread mate, she looks like a beast... speak later dude!

Omg......i havent been on here in ages and have now seen this. Didnt even know the bloke in person but just through this forum knew what sort of a guy he was. My thoughts go out to his family and of course hope youre in a good place up there Carl. Always friendly, always genuine, and always ready to help anyone. My wish is that there were more like you mate. RIP. Your help and kindness wont be forgotten. Pete.

Looks sick mate.... lovin the idea so far!!!

Brilliant mate, have bred tropical fish for years, but these look great, appreciate the hard work and dedication it takes to get it done right; good on you! Piccies of the new beauty when he/she arrives!!!

Obvious things might be something is binding on that side, or there is something slightly bent in the shock mounting arrangment on that side. Have you replaced the whole shock 3 times? If so then something is weird! Ive never had a revo (sniff) but every time i have blown seals on jumps on MTs it has been for one of these reasons a) too much preload (increases force on shock) too hard spring (increases force on shock) c) crap shocks (not your problem!) d) too heavy weight of oil (30wt is perfect) e) wear in the shock (could be but not three!) f) shock not put together correctly and bled correctly. (dunno about this mate, but im sure you know how to install shocks etc but just in case ...removing all the air bubbles is critical to them working for big jumps though and any airlocks in there small or large and seals will be blown etc. on big jumps. My losi LST shocks like to sit for 10-15 mins with the oil in them after manually removing air bubbles but they are big suckers...more air will appear after that period and needs to be removed again. If I dont do this they are not smooth, have the wrong rebound on the pistons and if exposed to big pressure (i.e. jumps) will blow. g) bad landings h) Turnbuckles set up wrongly causing shocks not to work correctly I found around a certain height no amount of set up will save the shocks...dunno how high you're jumping! Hope ya find whats up

Also other side of the coin; most of the time the seller has no concept of whether it is working correctly or not. You can simply get a good bargain by banking on people not understanding why an engine is not "firing" and therefore thinking its broken; and in the same way a real dud! He may tell you it is perfectly fine not understanding compression etc as above. so you need to learn yourself and as above a) get pictures and post them on here or get an expert to look at it with you. If the engine is out, hold by the flywheel and see how long it takes for the engine to turn itself over on its own compression; if it wont stay put for more than 2 seconds or so then it is most likely a worn p and l but there are a minefield of problems in these engines that a novice wouldnt spot first time; that you would spot straight away after some experience. There are backplate issues, conrod wear, pullstart issues, crank pin wear, air leaks aswell as the usual compression loss as the engine is used. These engines are "wearing out" as they are "run in" but think glass half full not half empty lol. A new engine will need to be broken in but your problem will lie in doing this rather than problem solving on a bit of equipment you know nothing about...trust me have learnt the hard way at first; unless you have some experience or are a patient bloke with time on his hands to learn i would ditch the 2nd hand engine idea and get something new. The bearings also need to be correctly maintained and for me 9/10 unless i am spending a pitance or i know the seller or can guess his word is good then i would steer clear of 2nd hand engines that will give a bad taste in the mouth for the hobby and generally drive you away!

I could have a list of those cars i wouldnt touch with a bargepole now too, but the unfortunate thing is i did and they are in my loft...ugh.

Lol I found a bit of remains the other day..the only memory from a Kyosho Ultima Rb Sports 2wd buggy I had as a first rc car. A wheel bushing, plastic and made of the same compund as christmas tree ornaments. (This was obviously after the one i got as a present from my parents when i was about 5 with a bloody wire attached to it! They wonder why im slightly mad on rc cars now...it was your fault! The disappointment in an early age was very apparent even at that time! Countless Electric Rc cars later......) The Kyosho was a brilliant little buggy with a gx.15 engine, 2wd; and not much to it! It was rather easy to tune etc with a one needle carb but it prepared me little with its "first time pull" starting for the horror of my second car, the Nanda Raptor. Where do I start with that.....? Needless to say with just the name people with them shudder in fear and rememberance of the issues they have had and the lack of joy in TVP design; and most critically getting to the worst engineered rc gearbox i have ever encountered. This truck was all about bad gear changes and sorting it out and basically redesigning a fundamental flaw that stopped it working properly. I had tons of problems with the gearbox, but it remained the fastest monster truck i have ever had and was a great size; Savage XL size. Strangely i loved and still love that truck. Remembering bashes and being the clear fastest out of all the mts on maxbashing track for 10 mins until something a) fell off or broke in the drivetrain. With the stock .27 Toki pos engine that lasted 3-4 gallons before eating both its bearings it registered 48mph on a Bushnell speed gun down at Blackbushe! (this may be why it ate its bearings or the fact that i didnt understand back in the Ultima days that 16%/25% fuel is not the same for all manufacturers! Lol....you live and learn or if youre the Raptors engine you just learn! Anyone out there with one and needs some help i have a (unwilling) high knowledge level of the inner workings of the gearbox of the raptor; it didnt help as there was one fix that beat everything that involved ca glue! Something i never really could fathom was why every other truck since then has ahad a 2 or 3 speed system that has worked pretty much flawlessly ever since. Good old Nanda! Since then i bought a HB Lightning, and the addiction was only just begining....20 odd trucks and buggys were to follow and do i think im done yet?

Yeah, 'tis true... Ive never been "lucky" enough to get a hole in the side of one of my crankcases...my engines "wear" is always without fail some wear on the big end of the conrod, but critically zero compression from piston and liner. I have never had a conrod go; in 10 or so years of this....only because my engines compression is always so low by this time the thing wont run long enough to become the bomb i want it to be! Generally this is why i avoid repinching etc. as my conrod always has a fairbit of play in it by the time I come to have to replace p and l and then it gets expensive to do the rod aswell. So its normally bye bye engine unless its a race 'un. I have had bearings go, inner races and balls, piston skirts snapping; massive play in the bushes but never a conrod going. (goes outside quietly with half dead team infinity .18) But things will change!

Hello Dan Not sure if you got my post but i would not just buy a new conrod and chuck it on that crank in that state! I would buy a complete new engine; after checking with your lhs that the crank should not be like it is....or alternatively look on Ebay for the crankshaft, conrod, piston and liner. They are pretty cheap, you wont get it today but some places will do it in a few days. There are spares for that engine all over Ebay and quite cheap too.

Should be a good bit of fun when up and running mate The clutch bell should not shake unless something like engine screws or transmission screws are loose or most likely clutch bearings are shot, take the engine out and pull the clutch bell off, defo change the clutch bell bearings for new ones,as it will most likely be that, and then check the clutch bell spins freely etc and has no more than 1mm of end play. When you put the new bearings in the clutch bell make sure it cant move side to side on the crank, if it does then new bell time. While it is apart check the clutch shoes arent too worn and in a 1/10 like that more importantly and more likely the crap spring that holds them together is not on its last legs. These days you can get two shoe metal clutches with traditional 1/8 springs on them (not the same ones but similar) for 1/10ths that are a big improvement. You would have to check they would work with your crank shaft pilot nut set up; and if not then adapters are available to buy. Pete

What has probably happened is that if the pullstarter is over-extended the coil spring inside gets over stretched and never gets its original shape back...hey presto, no recoil. You can take the spring out and fix it to an extent but 9/10 being the first time doing it if not extremely careful it will fly out of the pullstarter unit and become even more useless, and you will never get its original performance back. When that happens usually is new pullstarter unit time. On rare occaisions they can get so much muck inside them they cant recoil but when they get to that stage the engine will have problems already! I would say its new pullstarter time if the one way bearing grips the shaft ok one way and spins the other way. Hope this helps...

Looking again it looks like the part that the pin is machined onto the crank is just not there and has broken off in almost a perfect way, look at the picture of the crank i gave you in the first link and around the bit it connects to the crank there is a fatter part and yours doesnt.. er.. have it! I cant believe there are two pieces machined together and then onto the crank itself so i think a fault. Does the engine run?!!! ...sorry just seen the conrod did go...cant believe i missed that bit.

According to this link the crankshaft should look like this on that engine: gx15 crank but im sure i have seen an engine before with a crankpin like that....will have a search. FYI I have about 30 engines and not one of them has that crank pin design but it looks machined to me or maybe er not machined properly. It normally needs to be fully round for obvious physics reasons! This looks a little odd tho: another one... From my experience there is something odd with that crank pin; they are usually round and as they get worn develop play/slop in between this and the big end of the connecting rod; if there is wear in a crankpin like that...broken rod time I would have thought! Sorry I cant help you more there mate, but i would say there may be a problem.

Will mate, ya might want to check the wear on the crank pin aswell before you fit that new rod to see whether it is a worthwhile exercise! You need some digital calipers or...er.. a new conrod to check it. If the crankshaft pin is worn; and the piston and liner is too; a new rod will be another disaster, but if it is a newish engine then it wil just be the rod that failed, and any damage to bits it took with it... Why do you think the conrod snapped? Is it an engine on its last legs compression wise?

You can do a dual fuel tank mod on the MGT so you have 2 x whatever the original MGT had.... There is some info on MGT forums; need any more help shoot me a pm; you will need another fuel tank and some other bits and pieces to connect the two to a single pipe to the carb. Other than that, i would normally say lean the engine a little bit unless you are sure its tuning is spot on, obviously this uses less fuel and depends how rich you are currently running to see if you can do it; but it is a bit of a fuel guzzling engine being that size. I should think. 8 mins is a little short, but not too far out. Of course it also depends whether you just pin the throttle or use it a bit more economically!

Just to be sure its the engine, after playing around for a bit to get it started with factory settings and a good clean out, i would ditch that rear exhaust and try and start her up with a normal one....they dont have the correct backpressure needed at all from my experience with 'em. They look the nuts but certainly dont perform well; if the engine is ok however you should be able to get it started at least; if it is low on compression etc coupled with that exhaust you will struggle....hope this helps

For this next engine, if it is a k series 4.6; and if it has the mid range needle; it is worth noting where this is set before you use it, removing it, and adding the finest dab of rtv onto the end of the screw, you should never need to touch this needle and the HPI engines have a lovely habit of vibrating this in (or out). This will cause the fuel jets to be in the wrong place; tuning issues and most of the time, with you needing lean settings (or settings that will be wrong according to base settings etc as this mid range is assumed to have stayed where it is to overcompensate. If this particular 4.6 hasnt got that mid range needle then happy days. I have had 4 of these engines through good deals, bad deals, internet buys etc. and they are a nice powerful engine, but really do not last as long as other .28 engines (imo--and i have had a few) in the piston and liner area; however the one i had with a conrod issue the carb had rattled so much on the mid range that the threads in the carb were powder like and the mid range was free to move in and out as you used the truck. Interesting effects on tuning lol and conrod went snap after getting it running right (with the mid range wrong) - mine looked fine but once taken apart the powdered threads were evident lol. That engine is still running after a conrod transplant and a new carb; the most I have got out of one of these engines (which was babied) is 7 gallons (after a half gallon break in) which is quite a good life..(without any issues until the compression was "0" and the piston would go right through the liner) The k4.6 engines produce their best life/power when the low end is "wheely tuned" and high end is slightly rich.... HPI are so large that these claims should be no problem for them; i think some often rely on people assuming it was their fault/too much time before sending it back, therefore get away with it in some cases, glad to see you bothered and got what was deserved mate!

Is the wiring ok on this servo? i.e. no split wires, connection to servo ok, connection to futaba plug end ok? I am interested if it all works well and no split wires? Why so cheap? If it is that new and that price in the shops, there must be a reason for the 70 quid off the price... Assuming this all works etc and there is nothing wrong with it i will have this for 20 quid.

Get a new pullstart assembly mate, repairing them is not worth it in the long run, they will always refail. Not familiar with what pullstart that uses but look around the forums to see if you can fit another to the engine if you think it is not up to much, they should work for a good while once bought. If you find you are having to restart all the time, then you should go back to the basic needle settings on the carb and start again from there. Once correctly tuned the engine wont stall as much and you will only have to use the pull starter when starting and if u run out of fuel.

Sounds like a carburettor problem to me that mate.....or there is something wrong in the clutch setup...binding or slipping to get it hot whilst at rich mixture settings. Is it difficult to prime the engine? Is it always bogging with overly rich symptoms? What happens when you idle the car, then engage full throttle; just cleans out no matter what the mixture screws are? What is the result of the pinch test on the fuel line when the car is warmed up, i,e. full throttle run, then pinch fuel line? As you didnt notice anything else like hot discoloured clutch or anything then prob not that, other things it could be is the air filter being too soaked in air filter oil. This would affect the tuning to the extent that it might cause a condition like that. If the exhaust has a baffle or ports then check they are all intact in the pipe. I have had one melt inside before and partially block a badly made pipe. Take the carb apart, if you are happy doing it, you might find a jet partially blocked or something, have found this before! Are you sure of your tuning on the Optifuel? It is slightly strange to tune an engine with this fuel due to the lack of smoke when at about the right tuning settings....compared to say Byrons? Hot engines generally are always, always, too lean; so i would say that first thing is to check needle settings again...surely from factory settings it does not run hot, it should barely get up to temperature with them. If it seems rich and yet is cutting out then it is either too rich on the LSN and too lean on the HSN or more likely the other way around. i.e. too lean on one needle, not the other; this can give you a false idle etc making tuning more difficult. Make sure the factory settings are the factory settings for that engine, and go from them and not peoples experiences. The gearing on the CRT is also a bit strange if you use the wrong clutch bell....what number tooth have you got on it; too high and it will defo seem boggy? I had a force .28 many moons ago and seem to remember it liked temps quite low, 220-240 was about perfect. Was easy to tune, and most of the tuning was done on the high speed needle. Pullstarts are brilliant imo, the best way to start your engine. If the carb settings are right, it should start easily within a few pulls. The fact that you have gone through so many suggests that tuning or glowplug or friday afternoon engine might be the problem bud.

Hello mate, first time i have seen anything printed on the top of a piston in a nitro engine. Not a great idea, and it certainly looks like the letter A aswell lol. As to whether it will affect the engine, highly doubt it if it stays as it is. If it is raised etc, make sure it is not likely to break free as that certainly will not help, and if in any doubt i would ask for a replacement just to be sure; if you think it is just a defect in the face of the metal then it might be ok but seems very strange. I would want a replacement or an explanation from the seller perhaps? Is it an Ebay one? Depends how easy to send back really...and how much paid. If you are sealing the engine you prob know you really only want to do the backplate, and the carb, not the head, taken care of by the head shims? As for the clutch bell issue, i think you have found one of the many "machining tolerances" issues in the rc world lol. Some clutch bells are made less than perfectly, and bearings are similar, generally you get what you pay for with each. It is not a real issue, I think many people would find this much slop in the bearings in the clutch bell. Buuuuut, I would also double check the crank size on that new engine by testing the clutch bell setup on another. If this is exactly not the right size then any bearing will wobble on the crank. This is bad news, but shouldnt think is your problem. I have before put a tiny tiny amount of weak thread lock on the outside of clutch bell bearings races to stop any slop, this works, but will leave the bearings in the bell until they are dead, and you have to struggle to remove them, so dont recommend it personally. If the setup spins freely with the clutch bell installed and has 1mm of play with no noises then you will be fine to run it, check the bearings first as I have had a few not machined correctly, and then the bell if you want to eliminate that play.