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Baja light pods - 6V


perruzo

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They'll likely work from a fully charged 6V cell because (as everyone already knows) they maintain a slightly higher voltage off a full charge.

The resistor to use will vary depending on what setup you're going to settle with. If you're gonna put them all in parallel or try and keep some in series. If you're gonna run them in series on 6V though then you might as well pluck a resistor value outta your hiney because the maths won't add up due to tolerances in the LEDs. :P

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just as a note, there will be a flat portion on the led itself to identify the negative leg, don't go by long and short cos if theyve been cut they could be either one.

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I might be wrong,but i think you will need a plug on your lights to plug into the receiver,something like a futaba plug or one that is compatable,

Then its just a case of flicking the 3rd channel on and of on the tx,i think thats how i would do it,but i aint got a 3rd channel cos of the killswitch :rolleyes:

just as a note, there will be a flat portion on the led itself to identify the negative leg, don't go by long and short cos if theyve been cut they could be either one.

Mine looks like they both have flat portions,ill try and take a pic.

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Im sure Perruzo wouldn't mind the buisiness :P

How long do you rekon that will take ? :lol:

My led's are cool :good:

long +

short -

electronics_led_diagram.png

yep, thats what i meant, its just when you cut the legs you will wish you knew which ones were which :lol:

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I might be wrong,but i think you will need a plug on your lights to plug into the receiver,something like a futaba plug or one that is compatable,

Then its just a case of flicking the 3rd channel on and of on the tx,i think thats how i would do it,but i aint got a 3rd channel cos of the killswitch :rolleyes:

Nope - you've got three lines coming out of an rx - ground, live and signal. The signal wire sends data to the servo/failsafe/other-misc using PWM (pulse width modulation). You need some electronics at the other end to convert those pulses back into a useable signal - usually a dual jk flip-flop (4013) IC.

You'd then take the output from the flip flop to 'turn on' a MOSFET (transistor) which would in turn power the lights.

The only downside to that is you'd need to know how many amps the circuit can draw to spec up the right MOSFET to use. They're expensive to replace if you get it wrong, and unless you're using a current limiting resistor you'll have no idea what transistor to use. If you were using a resistor, you could get away with a 100 for a quid type transistor. :P

You'd also need to seriously rethink the setup of the LEDs if you go down that road though because the transistor will also have a voltage drop across it, so you'd really have to wire them all up in parallel instead of 2 in series.

Edit: My bad, 4013 is a dual D flip-flop, but I tend to just use jk's because they're easily and cheaply available and are able to act as any other type of flip-flop.

Edited by Aterlatus
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I hope I didn't make it sound complicated.... :whistling:

It's a fairly simple circuit really. No, wait, it's not. It's really complicated and expensive but I'll do you a special offer - I'll sort you one out for

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I'd just run them from the external battery. Much easier and cheaper.

If y'all stick to running them without resistors then Matt is right - it's far cheaper to use a separate battery than buy a new rx when you drag too much current through it. :P

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i'll just stick to using an old hump pack i think lol

and when did i get dragged into your's and merlins extra curricular games Terry lol

well here's my light pods all done and dusted

SDC10668.jpg

SDC10669.jpg

def gonna use the white ones when they arrive though so if anyone fancies a set in blue give me a shout :)

Edited by paul2304
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