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Thunder Tiger - 2.4GHz Wireless Camera & Monitor Set


Garry

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tt01.jpg

The POLYPHEMUS slack camera set is equipped with one slack 2.4GHz camera and a receiving element also 2,5 ” LCD-TFT monitor. CMOS camera can installed in a model become and transfer the pictures on the display. These data can then to further equipment, as PC or TV is passed on. Additionally one can note the video signal. The camera has 4 adjustable channels.

tt02.jpg

Contents of the set:

1x 2.4GHz slack camera

1x 2.4GHz of slack receivers with 2,5 ” LCD-TFT monitor

1x antenna for receivers

2x lithium Akkus for receivers

1x mounting plate for transmitters

1x adjusting tool for lens

1x battery charger for receivers

1x battery charger for camera

2x AV cable

tt03.jpg

Source: RCEasy

Sorry for the literal translation. No indication of price yet.

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I have a 2.4 Ghz mini cam from eBay. Was £20 inc all the stuff, but no monitor. Its ok quality, so all you need is a portabkle tv hooked up to your car and voila, you can record :P will try and post some piccies when i get it back out, not got it mounted yet, deciding whether car or heli would be best :)

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  • 4 weeks later...
Ouch, Mel's right:

http://www.alshobbies.com/shop/lookupstock...=7169&Desc=

And its not compatible with 2.4ghz radios.

Kind of silly it's not compatible with the better radios out there. And way much money!

I just taped my phone onto my transmitter for my XXX-4 video, worked a treat :P

And at 50p a roll, it worked out a bit cheaper too!

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  • 3 years later...

Kind of silly it's not compatible with the better radios out there. And way much money!

Actually, theres a good reason for that....

a 2.4GHz Video Transmitter in close proximity to a 2.4GHz control reciever will cause interference.

This is a simple, un-avoidable fact, nothing silly about it.

Also, 2.4GHz RC isnt the Be-all and end-all you seem to think it is.

It has many limitations compared to 27MHz, 35MHz and 40MHz

Basically, the higher the frequency, the less signal penetration of dense material, such as trees, buildings, people, even Air.

So for any FPV type application, 27MHz, 35MHz or 40MHz is the way to go. with 2.4GHz you risk loosing control of the model as soon as you go behind any object.

To compound this problem, if your using 900MHz or 1.2GHz video feed, you wont notice any "tell tale" signs you would with a 2.4 Vid unit.

2.4GHz video is very popular with FPV Flyers as line of sight isnt such an issue as it would be with an FPV ground usage.

Also, 2.4GHz video equipment is several generations ahead of 900MHz or 1200MHz, even though you wont get the same range with 2.4, its still superior in many ways.

In an ideal world, you would use 2.4GHz Vid, and 35MHz Control on an aircraft, or a 433MHz bolt on UHF long range system.

With this setup, it all comes down to the antenae, Will explain in a bit.

For a Car, youd use 900MHz Vid at about 800mw and 40MHz Control (or a 35MHz plane handset). With this setup you can easily get a mile on most terrain even with the standard 2 or 3 DBi Vertical polarised rubber ducky antennae.

Sadly, 900MHz and 1200MHz are technically illegal in the UK as both those bands conflict with Mobile phone transmitors.

with 2.4GHz, the most important piece of kit in your arsenal is the antennae on the Recieving end.

with a decent 8 dbi Circular polarised patch antennae you will easily get a mile line of sight, even on a low output ssytem of say 10 to 100 mw (although 10mw is the UK legal limit without licence, a 500mw TX wont be an issue as long as you stay away from built up areas.)

with a decent panel or Yagi antennae, in the range of about 19DBi people have been known to get a range of 10 miles or more without sweating. But such high gain antennaes are highly directional so need a tracker to follow your RC.

Also, such high panels are usually polarised in a single direction, so use of one vertically, and one turned 90 degrees will help prevent signal loss when the model is on its side or whatever.

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Actually, theres a good reason for that....

a 2.4GHz Video Transmitter in close proximity to a 2.4GHz control reciever will cause interference.

This is a simple, un-avoidable fact, nothing silly about it.

Also, 2.4GHz RC isnt the Be-all and end-all you seem to think it is.

It has many limitations compared to 27MHz, 35MHz and 40MHz

Basically, the higher the frequency, the less signal penetration of dense material, such as trees, buildings, people, even Air.

So for any FPV type application, 27MHz, 35MHz or 40MHz is the way to go. with 2.4GHz you risk loosing control of the model as soon as you go behind any object.

To compound this problem, if your using 900MHz or 1.2GHz video feed, you wont notice any "tell tale" signs you would with a 2.4 Vid unit.

2.4GHz video is very popular with FPV Flyers as line of sight isnt such an issue as it would be with an FPV ground usage.

Also, 2.4GHz video equipment is several generations ahead of 900MHz or 1200MHz, even though you wont get the same range with 2.4, its still superior in many ways.

In an ideal world, you would use 2.4GHz Vid, and 35MHz Control on an aircraft, or a 433MHz bolt on UHF long range system.

With this setup, it all comes down to the antenae, Will explain in a bit.

For a Car, youd use 900MHz Vid at about 800mw and 40MHz Control (or a 35MHz plane handset). With this setup you can easily get a mile on most terrain even with the standard 2 or 3 DBi Vertical polarised rubber ducky antennae.

Sadly, 900MHz and 1200MHz are technically illegal in the UK as both those bands conflict with Mobile phone transmitors.

with 2.4GHz, the most important piece of kit in your arsenal is the antennae on the Recieving end.

with a decent 8 dbi Circular polarised patch antennae you will easily get a mile line of sight, even on a low output ssytem of say 10 to 100 mw (although 10mw is the UK legal limit without licence, a 500mw TX wont be an issue as long as you stay away from built up areas.)

with a decent panel or Yagi antennae, in the range of about 19DBi people have been known to get a range of 10 miles or more without sweating. But such high gain antennaes are highly directional so need a tracker to follow your RC.

Also, such high panels are usually polarised in a single direction, so use of one vertically, and one turned 90 degrees will help prevent signal loss when the model is on its side or whatever.

Were you bored Trooper?rolleyes.gif

You just answered a post more than 3yrs oldwhistling.gif

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