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Upgrading motor on toy car conversion


SWIV

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I think you will be fine using hotglue instead,  putting the chassis flat on a table with a desk fan blowing on it to help keep the plastic cool,    and doing it in a few layers,   a few minutes apart.   till you have a nice platform for the servo to sit on.

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Went to every DIY shop and art and craft store this morning and they either don't stock it any more or are out of stock.  Might be for the best as you are right it's pretty expensive - just always wanted to try it.
I'm lost what are you trying to do?

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk

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If you need a platform printed, PM me the dimensions and I can print it for you and get it in the post tomorrow.

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8 minutes ago, CarlC said:

If you need a platform printed, PM me the dimensions and I can print it for you and get it in the post tomorrow.

Wow - that's amazing - I'll try and figure it out when I'm back home this evening - thank you so much!

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Okay so more pics today - made a little more progress today - used the Dremel to smooth the gap for the servo and cut more of the plastic pillars do they are no longer touching the bottom of the servo.  I found really strong Velcro cable ties so I hot glued them in place under the servo.  The glue was really hot so I’m leaving the car to cool for now before I fill the gap under the servo with hot glue - also changed the screw going from the servo to the steering - less ridges seems to make it smoother - getting excited now as I feel I’ve nearly cracked the steering 😂😂   You guys are unreal for support - thank you all so much!AC947002-E84F-4C17-BBE7-8BA23EE1E55F.jpeg.940c0e77ca2d4643c7fa467db93452e6.jpegAC947002-E84F-4C17-BBE7-8BA23EE1E55F.jpeg.940c0e77ca2d4643c7fa467db93452e6.jpeg

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Edited by SWIV
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Oh wow yeah  that's even better than I was thinking of...   I had the solid Plastic automotive cable ties in mind,   But those fabric ones are even better,  should let the servo move a fair bit when the wheels get hit,  so with some luck the servo will hold up to the bumps even without a servo saver,  and if it slips around under them putting the steering out of alignment,  a thin sheet of rubber between the ties and the servo will put a stop to that....   

 

Hey didn't I ship that servo with some long M3 Screws?  You could cut those to length and use those for the steering screw so you don't wear out the plastic part with the  sharp thread on the self tapping screws,   you would need a 2.5mm drill bit to carefully drill out the hole in the servo arm.  Have to use a 2.5mm and be careful,  to much and the screw would not grip.

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Thanks - (The cable idea is all Gortillazilla). - the Velcro cable ties are a fluke - bought them years ago to tidy up games console cables on my desk - and great idea about using a servo screw - just changed it out - see pic and should I attach the servo to the hot glue shelf I made earlier by placing a sob of hot glue at the bottom of the servo at the back or is it grand as it is?

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Could try as it is,   Makes it easy to swap servos in and out if you need to.   If it moves at the bottom of the servo,    yeah just a small blob of hotglue,  gotta be just a tiny dab so not to overheat and warp any part of the servo case.

 

If it moves at the top maybe a bit of thin/flat grippy rubber cut from an old bike innertube wrapped over the top and sides of the servo,  then the cableties tightened down?

 

Or just a bit of rubber the whole way round for either case?

Edited by GorillaZilla
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thought of wedging 2 bits of soft balsa wood on each side of the servo to basically jam it into place?

 

done something like on my little torpedo boat for the motor and then epoxied it all.

Edited by Yrkoon
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I didn't glue it - left it strapped in but I don't think the bar at the front of the servo is low enough so I'm going to buy a new servo arm and see how it goes.  When I tried to drive it today with the original motor the steering slipped so I ended up stripping it down.  The servo and and screw to driving mechanism were still in place so I think if I go lower with the screw on the front of the servo then it might work - is it possible that the car needs a stronger servo as the wheels are very heavy?  Thanks.

 

Having thought about this problem this evening - I remembered that the original motor which I was using today was powered by a 12V battery and I'm using 7.4V.  Hopefully when the new motor shows up it will have the correct pinion and I know it's the correct battery for 7.4V so the Servo might have the power I need to move the wheels.  It's trial and error guys - but that's the fun of it - if it were easy then it wouldn't be worth it.  This car will be unique and you know what even if don't ever get it going it has been great fun and I'll just put it on display.  

 

Anyone know a good place to buy F1 decals for  a 1/6 scale car?  Thanks

Edited by SWIV
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Engine works perfectly but yes - I need to work on getting the pinion on - had a Tamiya motor with pinion ordered in case your motor didn’t fit - just waiting for it to arrive and if it doesn’t work out then I’ll work on getting the pinion on your motor.

 

 

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Okay so the new Tamiya 380 motor arrived but the pinion was too big - I used a heat gun and pliers to get it off. Nluckily it was exactly the same as the original motor so the old pinion could sit easily on the tip - a little heat gun action and a few friendly taps of a hammer and it’s in place.   
 

It’s nearly there - just waiting on a new servo arm as I cut the original too short and if that doesn’t work then I’ll know I need a more powerful servo as the front steering is very heavy on this car.  
 

Exciting times though as I’m nearly there!

 

Edited by SWIV
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Changed the arm on the front of the servo and the Velcro seems to give it pretty solid support -new engine sounds great - hopefully I’ll have time to put it back together later on.

 

I actually used the original bar on the servo - I used a Dremel to slightly widen the hole and heated up the bar with a heat gun.  The bar was so small that the heat gun didn’t work so I lit a candle and heated it that way.  I then forced it into the slightly tight hole on the arm.  I then cut the excess plastic off the arm.  I used the Dremel to create a bigger hole on a small piece and slid it onto the original bar as reinforcement.  The final touch was to use a heat gun to melt the extra plastic onto the arm for reinforcement.  It was tough as all the plastic started to melt but I managed to keep it together and am delighted with the end result.  It steers really well now -  haven’t put the wheels on yet but hopefully today I’ll put it all back together and give it it’s first run.

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