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A little advice for a FS Racing 1/5 2 Stroke


Glencmp

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Hi there, ? 

So in my infinite wisdom (or lack of ?) I bought a FS Racing Iron Man 1/5 2Stroke, and what a machine!!! It’s been gently broken in and today it’s been out for a work out ? Firstly I need the 4x4 kit as the torque is huge at the rear wheels, so this will chew through Tyres!

But a little advice needed ...

the instructions are as you can expect just a bit vague and not really giving advice in how to look after it long term, so...

Whats the spark plug gap?

The cogs that run at the side, how do you keep oil on these so they don’t wear out.

What might be the torque setting for the spark plug?

Can you get other tyres?

And does anyone else have one that they’ve Modded?

I know it’s a lot of questions, but I’d rather look after it than trash it

Thanks for any help

cheers

Glen

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Spark plug gap can just be left at default. It will be fine.

 

The cogs...leave dry. They are plastic....and should be up to the job. Oil or grease will just attract dust. Dust that forms a grinding paste...that will wear out your gears. They should not get so hot that they lelt if the car is properly built and the right plastics used. I am sure they will sell you metal 'upgrade' parts too. Just keep an eye on the bearings. This layout was orininally copied form early MCD cars...and they had an issue with the centre gear. It sits between the other two, and runs on a short shaft with a pair of bearings. When they wear....the shaft wobbles, ruining the gear mesh on either side. Chewed gears follow shortly. The gear cover should help keep some muck out....but not all.

 

Couldn't give you a torque setting for the plug...just tight enough. I have spent too many years messing with bike engines to count..and my fingers know 'enough'. On a new plug, it should be just enough to compress the washer. Nip it up...then a tweak.

 

Other wheels and tyres should be available. Check what fitting your wheels have. Some use squares, some hexes. Different tyres and wheels will be available in a variety of tread patterns and compounds. Can be pricey though. Use offroad tyres on tarmac or concrete....and their life will be measured in minutes.

 

Now...if you are running offroad....the 4WD setup will be a hell of a lot better to drive.

 

FS cars seem a lot more popular in Germany for some reason. German E-Bay has lots of upgrade ally parts. Bear in mind, though, that alloy parts add weight and remove flex...so give thought to where and how much you upgrade.

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Nitroholic :) 

 

So the cogs look Metal and they have thrown off oil onto the cover? The Main Cog Drive in the Centre of the car is covered in Copper slip?

 

But Totally appreciate all the knowledge as I would like to keep the car in good condition, but really interested to see if anyone had done any Mods, I know its not the most popular car but Ill do a bit of digging on the German sites :)

 

Cheers

Glen

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The gears have a plastic cover ....which is a plus. Old FG's and my MCD had no such thing and the gears were just open.

 

Any oil you put on the gears really won;t stay around long enough to do much good. Motorcycle chain lube might do a better job of sticking....but I would tend to leave the gears alone to make sure that no grit was sticking in there. That would undo any good lubricating the gears might do.

 

As far as modding goes.....go slow and easy on that score.

 

It's easy to throw bucket loads of cash at a largescale car and  cover it in add on parts. Seen it done many times. The trick to get the most from ANY car is to upgrade where you need it. If you break a part, look for a better replacement. If the car has grip issues....better wheels/tyres/suspension can solve those issues for you.

 

 

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Thats good and fair advice, Ill need the 4x4 Mod, straight away, and Ill have a look at Tyres but the Mods on like are for specific makes so ill need to dig a fair bit to see what I can get to fit as quite often there are no sizes either, so Ill need to get my Internet hat on and dig :) 

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Nitro knows he tried to tell me too next thing i knew where the fg wanted upgrades and chased them down. A few months later and 700 into it. I got bored idk why cos ide love another because of that fg. But i sold it within 4 months i think. For £250 i was grateful for lol. But gutted too. I really wish i just kept it now.

 

With FS it might be harder to sell at the end mine was atleast FG the go to cheapo of the time. Km Baja moving in and now the baja is probably the go to. I saw hpi bajas selling under 300. A BL rtr hpi baja £280 ish. Its nuts. 

 

Ive deceided 5th scale in general is horrible to sell on. So if you upgrade save the std parts so you can revert back to sell offering the upgrades seperatly. If i did that with the fg ide have been laughing. But i built it lol so couldn't. I do now tho. 

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I really appreciate that, I wont sell the car, we are having to much fun, Wife included ;) :)  But really appreciate the knowledge :) 

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Ok, so got the new tyres, very knobbly ?? and helped a fair bit, so chuffed with that.

but... bought the 4x4 kit, no instructions! ?? so after I watched a YouTube vid I've got most installed except the front shafts, I'm lost here, I cannot work out how this works, would you have any idea?

PS I had no idea you can buy a K&N filter for this!!! ???

PPS its in the post ???

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Don't buy K&N filters..   really... don't.

 

Firstly, they are almost certainly not made by K&N and are just paper elements.

 

Secondly, they are not tolerant to dirt and mud or particularly cleanable.

 

For best results, fit a stock HPI Baja setup with an Outerwear pre filter over it. You can also do a simple mod to this to flow more air.   

 

The inner plastic piece that holds the foam has 6 plastic arms on it supporting the end cap. Cut away every other one for more airflow. 

 

K&N type are style over substance. Not a good bathing when it's the thing that keeps grit from gouging the plating off your cylinder walls.

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?? Thanks for that, too late ?? it was ordered direct from K&N but if it’s not upto par, I’ll let them know, but there is a cover thing if the car is in a dusty place, but I will check out the HPI one, it’s better to have a recommendation than hoping with trial and error ? 

 

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Thanks Fly in my soup ? 2 K& n filters arrived today and both are wrong ??  one for the wee Car and one for the Volvo ?

so back to the drawing board to see if I can get one to fit. It’s dificult to get proper bits as FS Racing is never mentioned it’s nearly always Baja or Losi.

the 4x4 kit has made a difference, and eventually figured out how to remove the hubs ? the the old girl has a ton of grip but just a little down on power so hoping the air filter will just lift it a little, but the HPI filter has been recommended so better advice form the people who know ? 

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31 minutes ago, Glencmp said:

old girl has a ton of grip but just a little down on power so hoping the air filter will just lift it a little

 

An open element filter will help your engine breathe easier, especially in these hot summer months, but it will also lean you out too ..... Of course this is all depending on if the filter/s are sited where they are fed fresh cold air...

 

Same principle as a 1:1 car really though..... They're not really a performance modification in their own right and can actually be detrimental to your engines power curve if not sited correctly... So only really come into their own when placed well , using a high power engine, and in the right application.... So don't expect miracles!

 

They do give a nice throaty burble though! I must say!

 

And these where sited so the butted against the two large ducts and on the body

P.s I never ran these setups in the wet , although I did run the arc on wet dirt and grass as it has the harm filter + cover.

 

I'm pining for a gasser now :(

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Thanks Fly in my soup ? 2 K& n filters arrived today and both are wrong ??  one for the wee Car and one for the Volvo ?

so back to the drawing board to see if I can get one to fit. It’s dificult to get proper bits as FS Racing is never mentioned it’s nearly always Baja or Losi.

the 4x4 kit has made a difference, and eventually figured out how to remove the hubs ? the the old girl has a ton of grip but just a little down on power so hoping the air filter will just lift it a little, but the HPI filter has been recommended so better advice form the people who know ? 

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Thanks for that, Mine can run ?‍♀️ n the dust but I’ll keep the 2 stage foam for that but it mostly runs on grass so I would look for the upgrade, however my air intake might be a problem... it’s forward facing so that’s a good thing

 

But this is the filter off, so I have no idea what options are available for this

 

 

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Dude, the air filter isn't car specific.... Almost all rc two strokes use a standardised carb size.... So almost all filters will fit these carbs! You just need a mounting plate that's specific to the filter itself... They're usually sold together.

 

That black round object attached to your carb is the mounting plate, remove it by unscrewing the two bolts either side of the carb venturi.... The CNC plate I showed a pic of above is just a CNC version of your plastic plate.

 

 

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Ah! OK I didn’t know that!!!

But I’ll assume KN won’t supply a back plate? So it’s now getting a housing that a KN will fit to. Would you have any idea? I know it’s a long shot. I’ll be speaking to KN this week about the Volvo so I ask them if they do it

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Awe man! That takes a lot of the guess work out. I have a filter but it looks like it may fit the Baja, so I have a back plate in order, if this goes pear shaped I can come back to this one. If anyone has a 2 stroke, this will save them a huge amount of leg work ??

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So after a bit of fettling I got this to fit.

I got a Baja Air Filer plate of eBay for £3 but the Plate had a lip bigger than the filter at 64mm but the plate is as I needed 57mm so I took the lip off, kept it nice and smooth, bolted on the plate, fitted the filter, job done, I had to use a little K&N grease to get the Filter to slip on a little easier, tightened up the Jubelee clip and off we go ? But I’ll keep the original in case we go serious of roaring ?

 

39F6AC0F-178B-4FF4-88AD-736BA06EDCA8.jpeg

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  • 2 years later...

Just I quick question - hopefully someone might be still active on this thread . 
 

I have just bought one of these cars . Ran it on Xmas day , ( on sand , didn’t realise you shouldn’t really do that ) . Came to run it today , won’t run at all. I have tried to deflood the Engine , but on following the advice it work for a few pulls abs then goes tight again without starting . I have checked the spark plug, it just looks like a spark plug to me so ordered a new one . 
 

would there be any other reason it isn’t running . 
 

cheers in advance ! 

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Hey SeanOD, not too sure but what goes tight? Is it the pulling starter cord or the engine will run but goes tight?

The guys here are normally on the money but if the engine goes tight it might be a bent or stuck valve.

if the engine runs but when you apply the throttle, that would sound like something's bent on the gearing.

check the clutch in case it's all gummed up. If the little friction plates are stuck to the sides of the clutch plate you won't get the engine started as your trying to start a car in gear.

id disconnect the clutch and see if the engine runs and take it from there

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  • 1 month later...

Mmm! Sounds like its running really hot! I know its a 2 stroke, and sorry if this sounds really dumb, but you have added the 2 stroke oil? I needs to be specifically 2 stroke oil. Failing that it might be that the fan is not turning to cool down the engine. The only other thing I can think of is a kink in the fuel line. There might be enough fuel to get through to keep the car going but if the flow is weak enough it may cause the engine to run lean?

The only other thing is that the fuel screws have been adjusted and the engine is running really lean? You should see health smoke from the back of the car, not shear clouds, but you should still see a healthy stream.

If the car is being run flat out over long distances, as the car heats up it will run leaner, you may have to enrich the fuel screw a little.

Do you have a hand help Heat temp gun? just to see what the temp is on the head??

 

Cheers

Glen 

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On 08/02/2021 at 12:37, Glencmp said:

Mmm! Sounds like its running really hot! I know its a 2 stroke, and sorry if this sounds really dumb, but you have added the 2 stroke oil? I needs to be specifically 2 stroke oil. Failing that it might be that the fan is not turning to cool down the engine. The only other thing I can think of is a kink in the fuel line. There might be enough fuel to get through to keep the car going but if the flow is weak enough it may cause the engine to run lean?

The only other thing is that the fuel screws have been adjusted and the engine is running really lean? You should see health smoke from the back of the car, not shear clouds, but you should still see a healthy stream.

If the car is being run flat out over long distances, as the car heats up it will run leaner, you may have to enrich the fuel screw a little.

Do you have a hand help Heat temp gun? just to see what the temp is on the head??

 

Cheers

Glen 

Hello. Thank you for your help. yes, I use the oil two strokes on the 98 gas. As for the fuel adjustment screws I never touch. The two times it happened, it was moments when I was running  almost always deep in the gravel, may have warmed up but I think it's weird.

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