Oh How Original Posted May 31, 2018 Share Posted May 31, 2018 That does seem like a good price, normally you expected stuff to be about 30% more than what the early birds import them for, but that's about the same, depending on where you go for exchange rate and shipping costs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooshay Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 I'm about to jump back into the RC world after 30 years of being away and although I was set on getting a kit, have still decided the PMT will be my first rig. I want to not spend the whole £5-600 involved in getting going in one go (rather do it over two paychecks), so would look to buy the car first, do some work preliminary work on it and then buy the rest (radio, electrics etc) next month. With that in mind, what would you guys recommend be done to it that would keep me busy for a while when I first get it? I saw some stuff re the diffs - I imagine that means re-greasing? Is With what? Is there anything else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.K Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 32 minutes ago, tooshay said: I'm about to jump back into the RC world after 30 years of being away and although I was set on getting a kit, have still decided the PMT will be my first rig. I want to not spend the whole £5-600 involved in getting going in one go (rather do it over two paychecks), so would look to buy the car first, do some work preliminary work on it and then buy the rest (radio, electrics etc) next month. With that in mind, what would you guys recommend be done to it that would keep me busy for a while when I first get it? I saw some stuff re the diffs - I imagine that means re-greasing? Is With what? Is there anything else? She needs a little work before serious running, particularly replacing the diff oils. Otherwise, you can blow foams and tyres etc. Out of the box, my centre diff was practically dry which I replaced with 500k oil. The F&R diffs have a bit of manky grease in so you'll want to clean that out and replace with silicone oil (i think I went about 50 front and 20 rear). Its also worth topping up the shock oil as they're only about 3/4 full from factory. I wasn't sure what the stock setup was so emptied them all and replaced with 50wt all round which i'm happy with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooshay Posted June 1, 2018 Share Posted June 1, 2018 11 minutes ago, James1986 said: She needs a little work before serious running, particularly replacing the diff oils. Otherwise, you can blow foams and tyres etc. Out of the box, my centre diff was practically dry which I replaced with 500k oil. The F&R diffs have a bit of manky grease in so you'll want to clean that out and replace with silicone oil (i think I went about 50 front and 20 rear). Its also worth topping up the shock oil as they're only about 3/4 full from factory. I wasn't sure what the stock setup was so emptied them all and replaced with 50wt all round which i'm happy with This is awesome stuff, thank you for that! If anyone has got any other creative ideas that will keep me tinkering away and busy, please let me know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanveer Posted June 15, 2018 Share Posted June 15, 2018 Just ordered one of these with a max8 combo from Modelsport. Needed something i could just keep in my car boot and bash on those random spots you find while out driving sometimes. If its anything like a stampede 4x4 but tougher its all i need... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanveer Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 Just installed all my electrics and took the pro mt for a quick run to check everything. It's an over powered animal with my max8 2200kv combo on 4s. Will get some pics at some point tomorrow once iv made a mess of the bodyshell lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 22 minutes ago, tanveer said: Just installed all my electrics and took the pro mt for a quick run to check everything. It's an over powered animal with my max8 2200kv combo on 4s. Will get some pics at some point tomorrow once iv made a mess of the bodyshell lol So far, how do you like it compared to the Tekno? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanveer Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 2 hours ago, Oh How Original said: So far, how do you like it compared to the Tekno? Initial thoughts are that the proline is very well made and seems extremely solid, From what iv read on the forums it does have its issues, But nothing that isnt sorted with 20 or 30 quid. It is absolutely nuts with an 8th scale system fitted running 4s. It works out about 300 pounds cheaper to build the pro mt, Thats using the exact same electrics. Only difference is with the tekno your paying 35 pounds for a body and up to 85 on tyres/wheels if you go with proline badlands or something. I will be sure to get some footage and write up a review for it once iv ran a few packs through it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Make sure you put some super glue on the pivot ball caps to stop them backing out and melting, also get ready to email Proline for when you snap the servo saver lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanveer Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 17 minutes ago, .AJ. said: Make sure you put some super glue on the pivot ball caps to stop them backing out and melting, also get ready to email Proline for when you snap the servo saver lol Iv glued bottom pivot ball cap which sits flush on both sides, hopefully that's sorted. And iv got the alloy servo saver and a few other bits and bobs on the way from amain. Cheers for the heads-up though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Sorted then mate, Ive only broke the servo saver and a bulkhead on mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanveer Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 46 minutes ago, .AJ. said: Sorted then mate, Ive only broke the servo saver and a bulkhead on mine Just took it to the a perfect bash spot, lots of jumps and perfectly quite. And then my servo saver snaps. Literally wasn't even 2 minutes into its first run lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Doh! Still email proline, because you get the whole spur of parts for free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanveer Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 25 minutes ago, .AJ. said: Doh! Still email proline, because you get the whole spur of parts for free Yeah I still opened a ticket on the proline customer service site, just to see what they say of it. Tbh I was expecting problems with the servo saver. Just not so soon lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 I do like an MT, and a smaller one to complement the 8th's would be great. Care to share reasoning behind running 1/8 scale set up on 4s rather than a lighter 550 sized motor on 2S / 3S ? Wondered if i'm missing something beyond run times - perhaps torque because she's a little overweight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Pure power! Wish I had a 1/8 combo in mine rather than the 550 3200kv combo. It’s a stunt truck, so it’s all about getting it to rotate as many times as possible while in flight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanveer Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 3 hours ago, capri-boy said: I do like an MT, and a smaller one to complement the 8th's would be great. Care to share reasoning behind running 1/8 scale set up on 4s rather than a lighter 550 sized motor on 2S / 3S ? Wondered if i'm missing something beyond run times - perhaps torque because she's a little overweight? I was going to go with the max10 3200kv combo as it's been proven to work well with the Mt 4x4's, the max8 just makes it that little more wild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badkad Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Just joined the club and got one of these off modelsport. Should be here tomorrow! Ordered a steel spur gear and aluminium servo saver off of amain. The plan is to have 4s power with 3s weight (I've got 6 3s batteries that I use to power my savage so I want to make use of them). I've got a new Max8 here already, and a 2600kv 4268 hobbywing motor on the way from rc mart. I'll bung in a 4s and a 2200kv motor if the power isn't there or temps are an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanveer Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 7 minutes ago, Badkad said: Just joined the club and got one of these off modelsport. Should be here tomorrow! Ordered a steel spur gear and aluminium servo saver off of amain. The plan is to have 4s power with 3s weight (I've got 6 3s batteries that I use to power my savage so I want to make use of them). I've got a new Max8 here already, and a 2600kv 4268 hobbywing motor on the way from rc mart. I'll bung in a 4s and a 2200kv motor if the power isn't there or temps are an issue. Even with the servo saver problem, it's an excellent bit of kit. I can say for sure anyone running a 2200kv motor on 4s will not be dissapointed. Running 16t pinion temps practically cool to the touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badkad Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 2 minutes ago, tanveer said: Even with the servo saver problem, it's an excellent bit of kit. I can say for sure anyone running a 2200kv motor on 4s will not be dissapointed. Running 16t pinion temps practically cool to the touch. Good to know. So a 2600 on 3s geared to match the speed of a 22 on 4s should be about on par temp wise hopefully, with a little less weight. Is there any more room on the mount to adjust for a bigger pinion or is 16t the limit? I've got a few combo's for 3-4s running to experiment with between tekin, castle and hobbywing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanveer Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 2 minutes ago, Badkad said: Good to know. So a 2600 on 3s geared to match the speed of a 22 on 4s should be about on par temp wise hopefully, with a little less weight. Is there any more room on the mount to adjust for a bigger pinion or is 16t the limit? I've got a few combo's for 3-4s running to experiment with between tekin, castle and hobbywing. There's room for up to a 21t pinion bud. It can get a little tight of you have a larger reciever though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badkad Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 Got my MT today! Apart from the things mentioned here already that you need to look out for, and a screw not being fully tightened on the rear, it seems Noticing that the steering is not free, I'm guessing that its the servo saver that needs loosening? Can't wait to run this thing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.K Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 Welcome to the club, you'll love it! Before you run it just do the usual stuff like topping up the shock oils and replacing the grease in the diffs. Also, like AJ pointed out about a page ago - remove the steering pivot ball cups and put a bead of glue around the threads before replacing. The have a habit of backing out and rubbing on the wheels causing them to melt! Let us know what you think after the maiden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badkad Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 1 hour ago, James1986 said: Welcome to the club, you'll love it! Before you run it just do the usual stuff like topping up the shock oils and replacing the grease in the diffs. Also, like AJ pointed out about a page ago - remove the steering pivot ball cups and put a bead of glue around the threads before replacing. The have a habit of backing out and rubbing on the wheels causing them to melt! Let us know what you think after the maiden Thanks, done all of the shocks and diffs, but I'm having a problem with the steering binding, the cups and balls are binding straight out of the box, the steering isn't free at all, like it can throw but i can guarantee the servo will be overworked or not move at all. Weird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.K Posted June 20, 2018 Share Posted June 20, 2018 13 hours ago, Badkad said: Thanks, done all of the shocks and diffs, but I'm having a problem with the steering binding, the cups and balls are binding straight out of the box, the steering isn't free at all, like it can throw but i can guarantee the servo will be overworked or not move at all. Weird I remember feeling the same about mine actually, but it wasn't too bad and my 20kg servo seems to have no issues. If it's really bad maybe work your way through the steering and make sure they haven't overtightened something maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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