Gavster29 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Not that this is the first thing I need in the build but it is the first to arrive!Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 My modelsport parcel should be with me today between 13:05 and14:05 according to a text they sent me this morning that has a few more goodies in it although I spent far too much with them That should give me my servo, ESC program card, new reciever new body and some new body pins! I have forgotten where I am with ordering stuff, I won't be ordering any more for a while and should have enough to finish the build, as and when it arrives (I hope!) The battery is bigger than I first thought, it has arrived with bullet connectors and I assume the ESC comes with bare wires, I am tempted to stick with the bullets rather than switch to Deans (or something else?)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Still thinking out loud here, apart from which connector to use on the battery to ESC (still open to options, what temperatures should I be seeing on the ESC and motor and what is the best way to test them? What gearing options do people tend to use to get decent runs with modest temps? I am sure a few of you already run a brushless 7 so have experimented already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross9999992 Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 XT90 are the current flavour of the month as far as battery connectors go (as many things they are a lot cheaper from china, aliexpress etc.). I wouldn't use actual loose bullets on batteries myself as I see lots of potential for shorting/reverse polarity. Many have and probably still do, just not me and many others Gearing wise you'll almost certainly have a 46t spur on there currently (maybe a 48t) and generally a 19t pinion is a good place to start. Seeing as you have the 2000kv motor coming I would be tempted by a 20t or maybe even a 21t. For temps you can get a cheap ir temp gun....the motor wants to stay below 80°c which with no temp gun is instant burny finger hot, they are better kept around 60°c though which is around the oh yeah that's warm but I can hold my finger on it for at least 4-5 seconds hot. I can't comment on esc temps as I don't ever gear my stuff for excessive top speed so have never had one feel more than a little bit warm. Batteries are ok to get warm, if they get hot run away!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 I'll have a look at the XT90s I have seen a couple on the forums before, I like the fact that this battery has a male and female bullet, the female is heat shrink reducing but not eliminating the risk!Anyway parcel number 2...Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross9999992 Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Ahh you see that imo is the worst possible setup for bullets. For one you now have a pokey out bit so 50% easier to short on things and two well now you (or your bag or box or kids or pets or blah) can just plug that male and female together to make relatively instant fire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 (edited) I crap meself when the 2x lipo wires accidentally touch each other .....an ive done it a fair few times now aswell. ........xt90's Edited August 2, 2017 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, Ross9999992 said: Batteries are ok to get warm, if they get hot run away!! When my boys hyper trackstar esc vented it got so hot it unsoldered the xt90 off the esc wires ..luckily no fire. ...and the lipo was ok after it returned to normal shape an cooled down after looking like a rugby ball Edited August 2, 2017 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoothybb Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 i prefer big bullets personally but use xt60 on everything smaller so can see the benefit of xt's. Your right about the almighty crack if u do short the battery wires but since doing the heat shrink properly I've not had an issue. Your listening to someone who uses black heat shrink on both wires though so I would suggest not taking any notice. I dont like the red black thing, all black just looks sleeker.......  On 31/07/2017 at 22:16, Gavster29 said: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Lol been out playing with the 1:1 car so no time for cleaning tonight, I have grabbed some grease that I think will work well in the diffs!Ok mixed on the wires thing, I will see what I fancy when the ESC turns up in a week or so.Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 And today the all important legs of the machine has arrived!Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 So some more parcels arrived today, looks like a diff build is on the cards!Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 OK I need some help folks, I was doubling up the front shock mounts only to find that my pin that holds the top arm on is now too short to go through the post, do you use a bigger pin or modify the shock tower? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertberr Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 New (longer) hardware I'm afraid, it's the only ball ache with the double tower mod, but like me, you've probably got most of what you need in your parts trays, anything else are pennies off the bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 Managed to sort it, I swapped out the c clip for a bolt, looks like I need to refresh my stainless collection!Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 Ok so rebuild time, I tore down the front end,cleaned out the diff which only had a splat of grease left over, refilled with 7k silicone diff oil and did the double shock tower mod. I couldn't remove the input cup, at a guess it has had some loctite on the grub screw, I even tried heat. Finally I managed to get the towers together, the new one has more metal on it than the old one, weird! The molycote was for the outside not a inside of the diff.Anyway pictures....Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertberr Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 Looks good coming on nicely. I'm in the middle of doing my diffs ATM. Similar weights to you 6/20/3 f to r. Made me laugh seeing your diff internal pics, when I did the rear one I forgot the little silicone o-ring in the crown gear and slung it in the jar of unleaded with all the other metal bits... When I took everything out to rinse off it looked more like one of me mtb inner tubes... Grrrrr!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 Thanks@bertberr good to get a bit of support, son to the rear diff next, I can't do the centre until my Dad gives it back, he is using it to design the motor mount which seems to be coming on nicely.What a nightmare about your O Ring I'm guessing it needed a replacement after that!Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 Finished off the rear diff rebuild and got everything back in the buggy. Not too many issues it had a much better coverage of oil in the rear diff but no grease on the open diff, I also managed to remove the drive cup on the rear which made cleaning easier.The car is back in 1 piece but I still have a bit to do....ESC still to come, then need to solder connectors on and I also need to match the battery, I'm thinking XT90s but soldering it all up fills me with dread. I also need to mount all the electrics but I have a couple of ideas on that.Centre diff needs a rebuild as soon as I can get it back off my dad.Finally the battery box should be on it's way to finish things off.Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 I couldn't double up the rear shock mounts, seems I have 2x different versions of rear mount, has anyone seen this before?Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 (edited) yeah they slightly change things on the each newer models.......body shell ..towers and rx box .....shoxs......but most of the main bits stay the same.....arms....diffs....hubs ect......put up a wanted ad for the one u need.....sumone may have one.... Edited August 6, 2017 by evssv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoothybb Posted August 6, 2017 Share Posted August 6, 2017 I'll see what I have in the spares box if you want? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavster29 Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 Thanks guys, it's ok for now, I think the main difference is the location of the body mount.The front was also different but I got them to fit together.Not much more I can do until the last couple of bits arrive, I need to work out what body colour to go with, I'm not keen on the white wing and wheels either.Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross9999992 Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 That's coming along nicely there fella You probably won't need the transponder mount (the circle thing that's attached to the servo mount plate) and bear in mind the diy extra front chassis brace. I don't know if you are planning on going with the standard centre diff top plate (which has a convenient mounting hole) or if your dad is going to do something clever? 18 hours ago, Gavster29 said: I think the main difference is the location of the body mount Keep which ever is higher to allow battery clearance, chances are you'll only end up using the top mounting hole in the tower and bottom hole in the mount anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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